http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehicules/58-other/1506-la-aduana-1965-citroen-sahara-4x4.html
not sure if I want to laugh or applaud

click on the forum tab at the top for some interesting reading on long term off roading. and vehicle mods

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So I was in my lifeguard course yesterday, and my instructor told us that she had an oxygen bottle in her car's trunk. Even though you legally need to be trained to administer such treatment as to give oxygen, I think most people could do it anyways, I have mine and it isn't overly complicated. Do you think it's a worthwhile addition to an UEV, or is it a waste of space?

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Just to diverge from all the BOB threads that have been on here recently and because I love the idea of hearing about so many internal combustion engines at once. *shudders with excitement*

This isn't necessarily about what vehicles you will use for the apocalypse just what cars and bikes you have, what extras you have added to them, like bushguards, run flat tyres, winches, CB's etc etc, what you normally use it for and what it's like to drive, reliability and stuff like that. Also try to mention any improvements you're planning to make, new engine, tyres etc etc.

I have a former military 1987 Tithonous 110 series Land Rover Defender.
2.5 litre straight six diesel, front disc brakes, rear drum brakes (soon to be replaced), Roll Cage, Run flat tyres, spare run flat on the bonnet, Heavy duty rims, fold-able seats in the back, Chequered plating on the bonnet, 35L foot locker in the back.
Was recently refurbished by the MoD so it's in great condition. Really reliable, only had to replace a fanbelt so far. Handles quite well both on and off road but will probably need a new power steering pump soon as it's starting to handle like a tank. Other than that it runs pretty smoothly.
It's the only car I own at the moment so use it for everything from having fun with the lads to runs up to Costco.
Aside from replacing the rear drum brakes I'm looking for a CB radio and I'm also planning on getting a winch.

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I have been thinking that the best survival strategy for me and my family is going out to sea. We own a 29 foot long NF sailboat that we could sail in shifts. We could either stay out to sea or find a small zombie free island to settle down on.

Equipment on the boat includes:
- a VHF radio
- food and water for a few days
- a small first aid kit
- a set of basic tools (screwdrivers, a hammer, knifes, etc.)
- bolt cutters
- an axe
- various charts of the surrounding area as well as equipment needed for navigation like a compass
- a kerosene stove and alcohol to burn in it
- blankets and pillows
- our sailing clothes (waterproof jackets, pants and boots as well as gloves and hats)
- emergency signaling equipment (flares, horns, etc.)
- a sonar fish finder
- 2 fishing rods and related equipment
- a GPS
- waterproof matches
- a lighter
- a life raft
- 2 binoculars
- 2 fire extinguishers
- spare parts for the engine
- a bunch of standard sailboat stuff like ropes, fenders and anchors.

I would obviously bring more stuff from land like clothes, more food and other things necessary for survival. What do you guys think I should ad to the equipment on my boat to maximize our chances of survival.

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What's the best aspect to look for in a vehicle for a SHTF situation?
Just to name a few: offroad capability, fuel economy, toughness, raw power, speed, storage room, full tank range, etc.
List your top three most important aspects and your reasons for choosing them.
On a side note, what is your preference between standard and automatic transmission?

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ive been reading around a bit and since riding a horse out of the zombie apocalipse isnt a good idea, ive created some criteria for the perfect anti-zombie weapon/home.

first, it cant use any gas. since gas supposedly goes bad after a little bit. so its probably better for it to use solar power or fuel cells (not sure how you could get your hands on a nuclear fuel cell)
second, gunpowder weapons need to be cut down to a minimum. since finding ammo could be difficult. or impossible. so putting something like a modified snow plow with blades on it would work.
third, it must be big enough to carry at least 5 survivors with you, and big enough that it cant be easily flipped over like a suv. so a bus maybe.
fourth, it needs to have a dehumidifier in it to provide clean water, and some way of producing or storing a large amount of food in case of becoming stranded.
fifth, it needs to have something in it to prevent zombies from getting through the windows and doors, and it needs to have some means of keeping the internal area decontaminated from whatever disease the zombie may have.

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Grab the Prius!!!

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Guys, I've seen over the threads the odd mention of competition vehicles from time to time, and how they'd be good for post apoc getaways. I'm hoping to squash that myth.
Rally cars are built to be as light as possible. Which means as weak as can be got away with. Longevity isn't much of a design consideration. If it outlasts the event that it's running, it's pretty much over-engineered. Race teams will go as far as grinding down bolts where excess thread is showing, to reduce weight. Every component is as pared back to bare essentials. Sound deadening is stripped away, which makes the car uncomfortable for long stretches.
My mechanic commented that after about 6000rpm, every thousand rpm further that you wanted to rev the motor meant halving it's expected lifespan (cumulatively) before needing a rebuild. This isn't exact, obviously, but it illustrates the point. Race motors are designed, to make as much power as possible. Think about this: Non turbo 4 cylinder rally cars make about 3 times as much power as your average 4 cylinder car, but they have to rev to 10,000rpm to do it. And they'll need to be rebuilt at the end of every season, and often halfway through as well. Turbo cars don't usually get revved as hard, but they have their own stresses.
We haven't got to fuel efficiency, yet, either. Race cars don't have any. They're designed to burn as much fuel as possible - because they're trying to make as much power as possible. And an engine that's designed to rev hard can't work efficiently at low revs.
So think about the two trucks following every rally car around, with an army of mechanics and technicians, and you'll realise that competition cars aren't really a good idea for when TSHTF.

They are, however, cool. :)

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Hey everyone,

I've been looking into a cheap BOV that would be great as a stand-alone or to be towed a short distance by a van. Motorbikes appear to be too weak and unstable to properly tow much gear, and I figure it'd be pretty tough trying to get a shot off while mounted. Cars and other larger vehicles are either too big to be efficient on what little fuel may be available, or too small to be effective while off-roading. All the ATVs I've seen go for pretty cheap new compared to an old beater and I think would be excellent for all purpose activities such as quick, speedy transport and solid off-roading capabilities, and hefty enough to transport a great deal of gear and give you a sturdy base to ride on over an extended period of time.

Any thoughts on how effective an ATV might be? Maybe if some of you are already planning on using an ATV as a BOV you could share with me some good makes and models for less than $6,000.

Thanks

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My idea is to have a rental truck as a post shtf vehicle. Theyre everywhere unlike tanks or armored vehicles or other military vehicles, easy to drive unlike airplanes or helicopers or semis, easy to maintain and find parts for. Slap up some aluminum diamond plate to the back, armor the tires and fuel tank, put chain link fence over all the windows and then load up your furnature. Also put in 30 or 40 gallons extra gas, 10 or 20 gallons of water, lots of food, plenty of tools and spare truck parts, all the fluids the engine needs, and put in a gun rack that includes a pump or break action shotgun, a .44 magnum revolver, and a rifle. Any more is unnecessary and overkill. Get plenty of ammo and a good set of knives cant hurt you either. Cut a hole in the roof to serve as a lookout point, an escape route, and a shooting range. Cut a hole to the cab that can be closed and locked from the back of the truck, and then weld the back door shut.
Install a generator on the roof and by all means bolt it down. Hook up the outlets of the generator to the back of the truck via extension cords and put a few outlets around the truck so you can runs lights or a heater or a microwave. If you have the knowledge and if your truck is gasoline you can try to hook up the generators fuel feed to the trucks gas tank. Make sure to use a fuel pump or two.

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