Sign in or 
Share this
Barrett M82
Model: Barrett M82Arguably the most recognizable and famous .50 caliber rifle, the M82 has been in production in a number of forms since 1982. The M82 is an anti-materiel rifle, meaning it's primarily designed for damaging equipment (radios, guns, explosives, light vehicles, etc.). The .50 BMG round also makes it one of the most effective killers available, and the "Light Fifty" sees use as a long-range sniper weapon. The sheer weight is generally the only thing that keeps the recoil controllable, sometimes compared to a 12 gauge shotgun.
The M82A1 has been in production since 1986 and was the first successful model. The M107 is a US Military version with a monopod socket, lengthened accessory rail, and rear grip. The M107CQ is 9 inches shorter and 5 pounds lighter. The M107A1 is 4 pounds lighter and features a new cylindrical titanium muzzle break and titanium barrel key/recoil buffer system which allows the weapon to operate with a Barrett designed suppressor, and other functional modifications which increase durability and operator utility.
| Specifications: | |
| Weight: | 30.9 lbs (14.0 kg) (with 29 inch barrel) 29.7 lbs (13.5 kg) (with 20 inch barrel) |
| Length: | 57 inches (145 cm) (with 29 inch barrel) 48 inches (122 cm) (with 20 inch barrel) |
| Barrel Length: | 29 inches (73.7 cm) 20 inches (50.8 cm) |
| Cartridge: | .50 BMG |
| Action: | Recoil-operated |
| Muzzle Velocity: | 853m/s (2,799 ft/s) |
| Effective Range: | 2000 yd (1800 m). |
| Feed System: | Detachable box magazine. 10 |
| Sights: | Fixed front, adjustable rear. Picatinny rail for optics |
Where to find
At $8000 for most guns, a .50 caliber rifle isn't something to be bought lightly or carelessly. It'll easily be out of the price range of most shooters, and your post-apocalyptic acquisition is more likely to be scavenged from the corpse of an Army or Marine sniper.
Complexity
The M82's recoil-operated system is generally reliable and less prone to fouling than a gas-operated system would be. Being a precision sniper weapon, it's often best to take good care of it.
Controls
- Safety: Located on the left side above the grip; point the left for SAFE, up for FIRE.
- Magazine release: Located behind the magazine well.
- Charging handle: Located on the right side of the upper receiver.
Loading
Condition One, or "Locked and Cocked." Chamber loaded, magazine full, hammer cocked and safety applied.
- Point the rifle in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Turn the safety so that it is pointing to S.
- Take a loaded magazine and hook the front end into the magazine well, then tilt it back into place. Tug on it sharply to ensure that it is attached.
- Pull the charging handle all the way to the rear and release it.
- Cannot be done.
Condition Three. Chamber empty, magazine full, hammer down, safety off.
- Point the rifle in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Take a loaded magazine and hook the front end into the magazine well, then tilt it back into place. Tug on it sharply to ensure that it is attached.
Unloading
How to unload the firearm and make safe. Presented in a numbered list.
- Take a loaded magazine and hook the front end into the magazine well, then tilt it back into place. Tug on it sharply to ensure that it is attached.
- Turn the safety so that it is pointing to S.
- Push the magazine release forward and rock the magazine down and forward, then pull it free from the magazine well.
- Pull the charging handle back and check the chamber for any ammunition, then let it snap forward.
- Deactivate the safety.
- Pull the trigger.
Field Stripping
How to disassemble the firearm for cleaning. Presented in a numbered list.
- Point the rifle in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Unload the weapon as described above.
- Remove the rear lock pin from the hole in the stock and the midlock pin from the hole in the center-bottom of the rifle.
- Pull the charging handle back until the bolt clears the barrel. Lift the upper receiver at the rear until it clears the bolt, then slowly release the charging handle. Continue lifting the upper receiver until it is unhinged from the lower receiver.
- Slide the bolt carrier forward until it clears its housing in the lower receiver and pull it up and out.
- Using a T-30 Torx wrench, remove the muzzle brake screws and remove the muzzle brake. Place the right-hand side muzzle brake on a hard wooden worktable while suspending the aft end of rifle. The left-hand side of the muzzle brake should be approximately ¼ in (6 mm) above table.
- Strike the top-left side of the muzzle brake with a dead blow hammer until it is loose and remove it.
Reverse to reassemble.
chitoryu12 |
Latest page update: made by chitoryu12
, Feb 7 2011, 12:31 AM EST
(about this update
About This Update
Edited by chitoryu12
709 words added 216 words deleted 1 image added view changes - complete history) |
|
More Info: links to this page
|
| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| p4p4t0m | Practicality of .50 Caliber Weapons (page: 1 2 3 4 5 ... last page) | 207 | Aug 18 2011, 1:48 PM EDT by John_234 | ||
|
Thread started: Jun 5 2011, 2:41 PM EDT
Watch
In the world of the zombie apocalypse what would the real use of a fifty caliber weapon be? It is way to overpowered for a close range soft target. Add that to the amount of noise produced for a single shot would drag every zed to you from miles around.
The number of shooters who could make the extreme long range shots that this weapon is used for in the military are few in the civilian world, and if you miss that shot, every zed is coming after you. The only real advantage is the penetration power and range, but these advantages are overshadowed by extreme recoil, high cost of weapon and ammunition, and large amounts of noise. |
||||
| someoldbullshit | Note on the muzzle break. | 4 | Apr 15 2011, 3:21 PM EDT by someoldbullshit | ||
|
Thread started: Apr 14 2011, 3:02 PM EDT
Watch
"Note: It is important to clean the muzzle break and prevent it from getting clogged, which can cause it to fail to work properly and damage the rifle."
Though I am not a gunsmith, I honestly have no idea the break on these guns could ever clog. Ever. I have put many hundreds of rounds through the one I own, and I honestly wouldn't believe someone If they told me their muzzle break had clogged. Its big enough you can stick your fingers through it. Anyhow, the main point of this comment was to point out that if you own one of these, for the love of god don't take that muzzle break off unless your replacing it. You do not need to remove the break to clean it. There is plenty of space to do that with it on the rifle. I only bring this up because the note about cleaning it comes right after the instructions on how to remove it. It is beyond a pain in the ass to take off, and even more so to put back on. |
|||||
Showing 2 of 2 threads for this page
