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Barricade Materials
I was wondering why there were no pages on how to barricade on here so I started this one. Feel free to add on any thing you want. I could especially use help on getting photos and formatting them the same way as the the sandbags.
Thanks - Hazard13
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Materials:
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Structural Member Wood:
Let's start from the beginning, shall we? Structural member wood consists of, 2×4, 4×4, 4×8, 6×8, and related materials; You should always have a few million of these in various sizes lying around for general-purpose home repair, as well as Zed outbreaks.They are cheap, fairly strong, and no hardware store would be complete without A LOT of them. While these won't stop the advances of the undead forever, they are a good start. They are also highly useful in reinforcing specific points of the home, such as strong backing window barricades and doors.
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Plywood:
Same as above, but you trade off strength for area. However, higher-quality plywood doesn’t trade off as much strength, and indeed some plywood's are actually STRONGER than structural member wood. Like structural member wood, you should have a large quantity of this material lying around anyways for general home maintenance.
Probably best for blocking off your upstairs windows and not letting light out.
Again, higher-quality materials should be selected whenever possible; Poor-quality plywood can be broken just by giving them a good kick.
Do not confuse plywood with particle board; Particle board will serve you in every bad way, and should NEVER be used in an exterior application.
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Plywood:
Same as above, but you trade off strength for area. However, higher-quality plywood doesn’t trade off as much strength, and indeed some plywood's are actually STRONGER than structural member wood. Like structural member wood, you should have a large quantity of this material lying around anyways for general home maintenance.
Probably best for blocking off your upstairs windows and not letting light out.
Again, higher-quality materials should be selected whenever possible; Poor-quality plywood can be broken just by giving them a good kick.
Do not confuse plywood with particle board; Particle board will serve you in every bad way, and should NEVER be used in an exterior application.
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Sandbags:
There is a reason that armies all over the world rely on these. If they can stop a bullet, then they can probably stop zombies. These are great because you can fairly easily set them up and they are available at most hardware stores for flood protection. They can also be used to make existing walls higher. The only problems I can see is that YOU can construct an unstable wall. Nothing worse than having your fortress wall pinning you in so that the undead can get at your yummy insides without a fight.However, the sandbags can be partly stabilized by good construction planning and by placing them inside a fence line on both sides to prop them up. Instead of these, you could also use dog food bags or fertilizer.
13th.Casualty: They would also be good for flood prevention in case of a hurricane or broken water line.
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Cinder Blocks:
Same as above but these are for your more permanent home. Why barricade when you can make your very own wall? These things can be reinforced into the ground using cement and re-bar. These would make a decent standalone wall, but my dream wall would be a chain link fence topped with razor wire, in front of a sandbag wall, with a cinder block wall behind the sandbags, and has a fairly good intimidation factor.
However, while skin jobs probably can not penetrate these walls, humans with sledgehammers can, as a general rule, quickly penetrate these barriers unless other obstructions (trenches, barbed wire, sandbags, etc) prevent or delay quick and easy access.
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However, while skin jobs probably can not penetrate these walls, humans with sledgehammers can, as a general rule, quickly penetrate these barriers unless other obstructions (trenches, barbed wire, sandbags, etc) prevent or delay quick and easy access.
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Bricks: 
One of mankind’s oldest building materials, bricks are essentially artificially formed rocks; With proper construction, a brick wall is just that- Brick. Practically impenetrable to all but THE most determined adversaries. However, brick walls take time to erect, and in the process those doing so will be exposed. Also, it requires a degree of skill not possessed by the average person; A proper bricklayer, at least, should supervise the process.
One of the great advantages is that, circumstances permitting, survivors can make their own bricks, with quality and quantity reflecting tools, materials and skill level. Master brick makers with perfect materials and state-of-the-art kilns can make perfect bricks, while average citizens can still make at least low-quality baked adobe (still better than pure adobe, which is far better than nothing).
One of the great advantages is that, circumstances permitting, survivors can make their own bricks, with quality and quantity reflecting tools, materials and skill level. Master brick makers with perfect materials and state-of-the-art kilns can make perfect bricks, while average citizens can still make at least low-quality baked adobe (still better than pure adobe, which is far better than nothing).
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Sheet Metal:
Think plywood on steroids. It also can be used to reinforce cars, trucks, and even clothing if you don't mind looking like an idiot.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Concrete:
Reinforced concrete (concrete with rebar in the middle, a grid of iron, stops it snapping), while being quite heavy, is very cheap and takes 24-48 hours to dry. At more than 3 feet thick, it can stop .50 caliber bullets, hand grenades, and cars (which are likely to be your only threats behind said wall). It is also very cheap, which makes it ideal to build your gargantuan fortress out of. Cheap, fast, strong. What's not to like?
AZ-Terminator001: If there's a will, there's a way
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Dressers, Desks And Tables:
Not a bad idea if you wake up to the screams of your neighbors being devoured to throw some furniture in front of your most obvious entrance, but I'd go with raw construction materials over a dresser or plywood office furniture any day.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chain-Link Fences:
Chain-link fencing (also called Cyclone fencing) can be used to stop hostile survivors from taking apart your sandbags and skinjobs from getting in, provided it is properly built and maintianed. Plus, it looks pretty intimidating with razor wire on top. Chain-link fences can be found around your neighborhood and used to reinforce your windows. Along with steel poles, you'll be able to fashion your home into a well hardened target! 13th.Casualty: If you run an electrical wire through it, it can serve as an electric fence.
cormacr9:chain link (the material not fence) can also be wielded to car windows, house window with metal frames or other objects or frames made of metal
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Pallets:
T
hese are made to withstand tremendous amounts of weight, and are great for windows. pallets can make excellent strong backs (see below), and most pallets can be torn apart for materials.
They are also very useful as temporary barricades and partitions; Stack them up or nail to some sort of framework and you have a wall.
Note the pallets to the left are form-fabricated; That is, plastic or wood dust/epoxy is injected into a mold. This makes it much stronger, but it can not be disassembled to be re-used in other applications as easily. The pallets at right are traditional nailed wood (probably reinforced with glue). These aren’t as strong, but can be torn apart for other applications (such as strongback and other barricading features).
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Trenches:hese are made to withstand tremendous amounts of weight, and are great for windows. pallets can make excellent strong backs (see below), and most pallets can be torn apart for materials.They are also very useful as temporary barricades and partitions; Stack them up or nail to some sort of framework and you have a wall.
Note the pallets to the left are form-fabricated; That is, plastic or wood dust/epoxy is injected into a mold. This makes it much stronger, but it can not be disassembled to be re-used in other applications as easily. The pallets at right are traditional nailed wood (probably reinforced with glue). These aren’t as strong, but can be torn apart for other applications (such as strongback and other barricading features).
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Trenches should NEVER be used as a final defensive line (where you actually stand as the skin jobs close in); The skin jobs will simply get in, kill you, and there won’t be much you can do about it except commit suicide.
As a primary defensive line feature, however, it can be highly useful as an obstacle to skin jobs, raiders, and even common animals (everything except rats and snakes, and sometimes the latter). As an added defensive feature, fill it with sharpened poles, razor or barbed wire, broken farming equipment (both hand and industrial), and every sort of razor-edged junk known unto man, and, if possible, allow it to flood. While the sharps probably won’t kill the skin jobs outright, they can serve as highly effective entanglements, preventing the vast majority from moving out and allowing you to kill them at leisure, perhaps even with a mallet or other bludgeon, thus saving ammo. (If you're a particualarly evil, cruel, or disturbed sort, let them die without your help, and listen to the buetiful music of their cries and moans of PAIN.)
Trenches will have little, if any, effect on human problems, as the kind of human inclined to breach this perimeter will likely get in no matter what you do, using anything from simple bridging vehicles to vertical insertation- Or even human sacrifice (throwing hundreds of people into the trenchworks until a pile of bodies big enough in and of itself to serve as a bridge is formed).
Things to consider:
A WWI-style tiny trench (such as the one depicted) is of very little good to you; Dig a wide trench, with a sloping inside wall allowing you to bring weaps to bear if necessary with maximum ease. Also, a slight rise (built of dirt excavated from the trenching itself approximately 3 to 4 feet high) can create an optical delusion of a smooth terrain. In the event of a massed horde, the pure weight of bodies will force a large number in. With a sufficiently deep and wide trench, thousands could be dead before they build up enough bodies to roll over their comrades.
Happyman:
If your out on a hill in the middle of nowhere like my hillfort/bunker you get a lot of room for a perimeter and a Abatis is a must have for perimeter defense. Zombies cant really get by it, they'll sorta just fall in the pit and roll around. There would have to be enough to fill the pit up but a wee bit of fire will take care of that and you couldnt have any problems with this. Throw pipe bombs down there too, for the persistant ones.
As a primary defensive line feature, however, it can be highly useful as an obstacle to skin jobs, raiders, and even common animals (everything except rats and snakes, and sometimes the latter). As an added defensive feature, fill it with sharpened poles, razor or barbed wire, broken farming equipment (both hand and industrial), and every sort of razor-edged junk known unto man, and, if possible, allow it to flood. While the sharps probably won’t kill the skin jobs outright, they can serve as highly effective entanglements, preventing the vast majority from moving out and allowing you to kill them at leisure, perhaps even with a mallet or other bludgeon, thus saving ammo. (If you're a particualarly evil, cruel, or disturbed sort, let them die without your help, and listen to the buetiful music of their cries and moans of PAIN.)
Trenches will have little, if any, effect on human problems, as the kind of human inclined to breach this perimeter will likely get in no matter what you do, using anything from simple bridging vehicles to vertical insertation- Or even human sacrifice (throwing hundreds of people into the trenchworks until a pile of bodies big enough in and of itself to serve as a bridge is formed).
Things to consider:
A WWI-style tiny trench (such as the one depicted) is of very little good to you; Dig a wide trench, with a sloping inside wall allowing you to bring weaps to bear if necessary with maximum ease. Also, a slight rise (built of dirt excavated from the trenching itself approximately 3 to 4 feet high) can create an optical delusion of a smooth terrain. In the event of a massed horde, the pure weight of bodies will force a large number in. With a sufficiently deep and wide trench, thousands could be dead before they build up enough bodies to roll over their comrades.
Happyman:
If your out on a hill in the middle of nowhere like my hillfort/bunker you get a lot of room for a perimeter and a Abatis is a must have for perimeter defense. Zombies cant really get by it, they'll sorta just fall in the pit and roll around. There would have to be enough to fill the pit up but a wee bit of fire will take care of that and you couldnt have any problems with this. Throw pipe bombs down there too, for the persistant ones. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barrels:
Barrels can make an serviceable wall. Just stack them up and fill them with heavy stuff like rocks and sand after ensuring the barrel 'wall' is constructed in a stable fashion.
Barrels are especially ideal for shoring up defenses in critical areas, such as checkpoints, gates, and over watch positions (machine gun nests). These will NOT blow up if set on fire, unless you fill them up with explosives, which is not recommended.
EXTREME CARE should be taken when stacking barrels to ensure that they are stable; As a general rule, barrels do not like being stacked one on top another, though with proper preparation they can be stacked effectively and serve you well. Additionally, food grade barrels should NEVER be wasted on construction; Save these for foodstuffs and water storage. (When in doubt, however, assume the barrel is NOT food grade).
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Barrels can make an serviceable wall. Just stack them up and fill them with heavy stuff like rocks and sand after ensuring the barrel 'wall' is constructed in a stable fashion.
Barrels are especially ideal for shoring up defenses in critical areas, such as checkpoints, gates, and over watch positions (machine gun nests). These will NOT blow up if set on fire, unless you fill them up with explosives, which is not recommended.
EXTREME CARE should be taken when stacking barrels to ensure that they are stable; As a general rule, barrels do not like being stacked one on top another, though with proper preparation they can be stacked effectively and serve you well. Additionally, food grade barrels should NEVER be wasted on construction; Save these for foodstuffs and water storage. (When in doubt, however, assume the barrel is NOT food grade).
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Earth Wall:
Just like a trench, you are wasting your time unless you are defending a permanent camp. They will serve as excellent defensive measures but will take large amounts of time and effort to construct.
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Rhynoliner Spray-on Truck Bed Liner:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is a spray-on liner that is supposed to protect a truck from a bomb blast so it is not completely destroyed. A Discovery Channel show called SmashLab used it to protect a cinder block wall from a couple pounds of dynamite. When sprayed on both sides, the wall was able to stand up to the bomb. Use it to add another layer of protection to walls, sandbags or even drywall in a pinch. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tires:
Stack them like bricks, fill them and pack dirt into all the empty spaces. This makes a very sturdy wall, but don't forget to reinforce it to keep Zeds from toppling it through sheer weight of numbers. WARNING: Rubber is flammable, and steps to ensure that a fire in one section of wall does not spread to others. Water generally will not stop such a fire, so an alternative should be utilized.
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PVC Pipe:
More for building traps than barricades necessarily, but highly effective none the less, especially when sharpened (IE pungi sticks); Sharpen as many as possible and build a palisade. Additionally, the open nature of the piping will cause it to act like a shunt, pouring blood out of the victim very quickly, and they will not be able to stop any of it (provided the end does not come out the other side of the skin job, or it breaks off inside). Care should be taken that PVC is plastic, and prone to breaking easily; It must be maintained continuously.
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Rebar:
Reabar can come in use when making very basic fortifications, if you can pound some rebar into the ground in a weaving pattern this will stand up to some low-class offense. this will not stand up for very long, but it should give you enough time to load your guns and kill the zombie. Do not use this as your only defense, it is very basic and not very useful if used against numbers of more than two or three. byates: Additional way to use rebar would be pound into the ground at a angle and sharpen the exposed end. Put some pallets over the end to hold them up and keep separated. Let Zed impale themselves, the harder they push, the more firmly they drive the rebar into their bodies, might even get lucky and get a head jab. Either way, they get hopelessly stuck and can be finished off with flamethrowers (which will be needed either way to get rid of the bodies).
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Hog Panel:
OK, not something you might find in the city. These are 16 foot by 34 inch panel of 4 gauge wire welded in a grid. They would be good for area denial, fastened across doors, windows, hallways, etc. These are not as floppy as chain-link fence, more like sheet metal of a similar gauge, but easier to handle. And, it is strong enough to hold back a hog, should slow a zombie. Easier to shoot through than solid too.
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Tools:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some household items that can assist you in putting up and reinforcing your chosen method of barricading.
General Tool Kit:
A general tool kit is a must-have item, even outside of a skinjob outbreak or natural disaster. The kit shown here, with two channel lock and five adjustable wrenches, two adjustable pliers and a pair of needle nose pliers, and a screwdriver (presumably interchangeable heads), is an excellent start, but should not be considered a “complete” kit. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hammer:
Relatively noisy, hammer and nails do provide the advantage of being able to quickly and efficiently join two materials together; However, the proper type of nails should be used (generally the big carpentry and boxing nails) as well as the proper type of hammer (again, boxing and carpentry hammers). As a general rule, the common household hammers are intended to hang pictures, not sheets of anything.
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Nail Gun:
Good for securing materials quickly and easily, but not a long term solution. Modified versions can be use as a weapon in a situation where you are building your barricade a attacked (though factory versions have safety features preventing this).
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Screws: 
Screws are caught between good hold, and slow installation. They can be installed faster using an electric screwdriver (provided they have power) or a ratchet (using a ⅜” socket and interchangeable screw heads), but then sacrifice silence for speed.
Care should be exercised to select the proper sized screw for the application; Generally this means the bigger the better, but not in every case.
Care should be exercised to select the proper sized screw for the application; Generally this means the bigger the better, but not in every case.
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Bolts:
An alternative to screws, bolts can be used to secure BIG things (strong backs, for example), but drilled out holes MUST be made in advance. As a general rule of thumb, if you have time to drill out these holes, you may wish to consider using the time to other applications, but if evacuation is not an option and the structural materials MUST be reinforced, then bolts should be considered. Ensure that all excess materials are removed (ground off), and the inside/exposed section of the bolt (generally the head) are recessed (a larger hole drilled out, allowing the bolt to be flush with the wall) whenever possible.
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Welding:
Simply the best method of securing anything metal. Unfortunately, you have to be good at welding and both surfaces have to be metal.
Simply the best method of securing anything metal. Unfortunately, you have to be good at welding and both surfaces have to be metal.
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Construction
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In preparation for the siege:
The first thing to do is lock your doors.
Next, cover your windows with whatever is to hand; Shelves, entertainment centers, appliances, anything heavy or immobile.
As time permits, add to your defenses; First, cut sections of plywood, steel, or any plating you can find big enough to cover the entire window. Be sure to include viewing areas (such as a couple of exposed corners). When selecting materials, the stronger, the better is a general rule. This is especially important with big picture windows. Cannibalize housing material, even tearing down non-load bearing walls, to obtain material. Bed mattresses can be used, but are not preferable.
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| Strongback Construction Diagram: Blue is pre-disaster window. Brown is plywood or other large-area covering. Black is 2×4. Red is 4×4 (may consist of married 2×4’s). |
Strong back these platings; To build a strong back, make two to four sections of 2×4 the same length as the plating are wide, then a section of wood, preferably 4×4 (2×4 can be used, but will not be as strong as you should prefer) as long as the top of the window is high off the ground Nail the short sections perpendicular to the long section (one nail will generally suffice), then lay the assembly against the sheeting. The boards MUST reach fully across the window for maximum effect, and should, resources permitting, reach fully across the sheeting. The upright also needs to reach all the way to the ground in order to help support itself.
The strong back ‘can’ be nailed to the wall to help hold it in place, but this should only be used to hold the strong back in place while construction, and not as a permanent measure. Shore up the strong back using furniture as a temporary measure, then time and circumstances permitting properly shore up the strong back; Taking sections of 4×4 or bigger (two sections of 2×4 can be married {joined side by side) if no 4×4 are available), cut one section long enough to reach from the middle of the window to approximately 4 to 5 feet behind it, then a second section long enough to reach from the top of the first 4×4 to the roof (2×4 is adequate for this, unless the second section is going to be extremely long). The shoring need to be anchored somehow; Against wooden floors, this is as simple as nailing the bottom sections in place. With concrete or dirt floors, an alternative must be found. One option in this direction is to simply pile heavy objects on it (such as furniture. However, in this event, if two sections of 2×4 are married, be sure to set the shoring so that the edges (the 2” sides) are facing UP, to discourage the boards from warping and possibly even breaking under the strain.
Temporary strong backs can be improvised from pallets, and additionally the pallets can be cannibalized for materials for permanent strong backs; However, these should not be used as permanent structures.
Once your windows are solidified, shore up your doors; Select one door, preferably out of sight of the street, with a viewing area that allows you to see out as far around as possible. All other doors should be locked, then strong backed, then if possible nailed shut. This will be your entry/exit door to leave to forage and to search for other survivors, better accommodations (moving from a difficult to secure house to an easily secured warehouse, an abandoned police station, etc), and possibly to find help.
Behind your one selected door, place a couch with a lot of weight (piling debris, such as Sheetrock torn down to obtain materials to fortify the windows and other doors). This is your exit/entry point. If alone, lock the door each time you leave; The likelihood that the average skin job being able to open the door are limited. Humans will get in, no matter what you do. If in a group, have your fellow survivors lock and barricade the door. Use a signaling method, such as a specific knock (a new one should be selected each time you go out), to signal when to open, and when not to. Be sure to establish a specified return time; This will increase your security (if you arrive early or late, this will be a sign to your fellow survivors that something is wrong).
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IF PURSUED BY SKIN JOBS OR OTHER DANGERS: Do not go directly home. Attempt to loose your pursuers if possible, but whatever you do, do not go home until you are absolutely certain that your pursuers are gone. Even if the pursuers see you come out, they may mistakenly believe you were hold up overnight, or for a short period of time.
Alicestar:
internal doors desktops
tabletops
drywall
plywood
2x4's
shelves
cabinets
plexi-glass
wooden pallets
any scrap steel/ aluminum
concrete
bricks
cinder blocks
fence (wood or chain link type)
jersey bumpers (them concrete road things)
steel shelving
trees
cars
trucks
rubble
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Keyword tags:
2x4
Barricade
Brick
Chain link
Cinder Blocks
Hammer
Hostile Survivors
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | |
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| Diablo185 | Rhyonliner | 0 | Thursday, 1:00 PM EDT by Diablo185 | |
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Thread started: Thursday, 1:00 PM EDT
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Though virtually useless against Zack, rhynoliner is a potential material one could use to reinforce their structure(s) and barricade(s) from rampaging survivors with explosives/heavy melee weapons (ie mourning star, sledge hammer, etc).
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Keyword tags:
2x4
Barricade
Brick
Chain link
Cinder Blocks
Hammer
Hostile Survivors
nailgun
Pallets
plywood
sandbags
Trench
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| residentmagnum | barricade (page: 1 2 3) | 44 | Jun 12 2008, 6:37 AM EDT by residentmagnum | |
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Thread started: Jun 6 2008, 5:10 PM EDT
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anything can work
Zombies are stupid and slow not like the running zombies in movies A barricade doesn't need to be bullet proof, but if your afraid of other humans then keep reenforcing as you find new material use a Car if possible to block doors or windows use the furnature in your home old tires if you got them rebar sindar blocks and concrete to make a stone wall wood, chain, wire start by locking the doors, then put something infront of them shut all windows and nail them shut or board them up if possible I recomend watching dawn of the dead and night of the living dead the origanls not the remakes
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2x4
Barricade
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Hammer
Hostile Survivors
nailgun
Pallets
plywood
sandbags
Trench
zombie
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| piekillszombies | i have the best defense.... | 3 | May 30 2008, 1:19 PM EDT by Homeworld100 | |
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Thread started: May 28 2008, 6:30 PM EDT
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guys... just build a new and improved verison of the great wall of china made of rebar and concrete(considering u have time)! and get a ton of gasolin to burn the sombies that pack against the wall so that they dont climp over eachother and over the wall.
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Keyword tags:
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| byates | Dead weight | 13 | May 25 2008, 12:26 PM EDT by byates | |
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Thread started: May 18 2008, 3:17 PM EDT
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Something to think about. How many zeds are going to be pressing against that barricade? Enough weight and it will come down, soccer fans have pushed down chain link fence at stadiums. How many bodies could you have stacked against your refuge? How many bodies could be stacked in the stairway in your apartment building? What would you do if the bodies stacked reached the roof or blocked your escape?
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Chain link
Cinder Blocks
Hammer
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Trench
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| richboy33lb | That can't happen | 3 | May 17 2008, 2:28 AM EDT by alicestar | |
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Thread started: May 16 2008, 6:22 PM EDT
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Contrary to video games, barrels filled with oil won't blow up if shoot or set on fire. If shot, the oil will start to squirt out, and if set on fire, the barrel will just remain on fire until extinguished or burnt out.
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