Cap and ball revolverThis is a featured page

Colt 1851 Navy. Credit to thespiritoftheoldwest.comModel: Cap and ball revolvers
The cap and ball revolver is an antique, making it a mystery as to why anybody would continue to use them in the day and age of handheld machine guns and rocket launchers. The answer is legality: some countries, like New Zealand, put fewer restrictions on non-cartridge firearms like cap and ball revolvers or muzzleloading muskets and rifles, making them a cheap, easy-to-acquire source of personal defense. In the United States, antique weapons like this are not subject to the same federal laws (though obviously state laws can be just as restrictive).

This article will detail a common example of a cap and ball revolver, the Colt 1851 Navy. The Navy was in production from 1850 to 1873, but continued to see use long after modern cartridge revolvers were introduced. Companies like Uberti produce modern reproductions that can be bought for very low prices.



Specifications:
Weight:
 2.6 lb (1.2 kg).
Length:
 14 in (355 mm).
Barrel Length:
 XX in (XX mm).
Cartridge:
 .36 caliber ball
Action:
 Single action
Muzzle Velocity:
 910 ft/s (277 m/s).
Effective Range:
 30 yd (27 m).
Feed System:
 Fixed cylinder. 5
Sights:
 Front blade or bead. Rear V-notch.
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Where to find

While gun stores may not sell these weapons unless they usually stock black powder firearms, the internet can be a good source of these pistols and they can often be found for under US$100.


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Complexity

Cap and ball revolvers seem almost primitive compared to a modern weapon like a Ruger GP100, but they're very strong and can stand up to abuse, provided it's not overloaded. The biggest issues with a cap and ball are slow loading (even with paper cartridges), sensitivity to wet or damp conditions that can cause the percussion caps or powder to fail to fire, and the ability to accidentally overload or underload the cylinders with powder. The loading sequence is also complex and requires rigorous memorization to ensure safe, reliable shooting.

As with any black powder weapon, it must be vigorously cleaned after every shooting to prevent the buildup of corrosive salts in the bore.
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Controls
  • Hammer: Cocked back for firing. Can be put in a safety position, half-c*ck, or cocked.
  • Rammer: Located below the barrel.

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Loading

Condition One, or "Locked and Cocked." Chamber loaded, magazine full, hammer cocked and safety applied.
  1. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
  2. Pull the hammer back about half an inch into half-c*ck.
  3. Pour a measure of black powder into each cylinder and place a bullet on top of each charge.
  4. Use the rammer to shove down each bullet and charge firmly into the chamber.
  5. Place heavy grease around the front of each chamber; this reduces fouling and prevents chain fires.
  6. Place a percussion cap on the nipple on the back of each chamber.
Condition Two. Chamber loaded, magazine full, hammer down, safety off.

  1. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
  2. Pull the hammer back about half an inch into half-c*ck.
  3. Pour a measure of black powder into each cylinder and place a bullet on top of each charge.
  4. Use the rammer to shove down each bullet and charge firmly into the chamber.
  5. Place heavy grease around the front of each chamber; this reduces fouling and prevents chain fires.
  6. Place a percussion cap on the nipple on the back of each chamber.
  7. VERY CAREFULLY hold down the hammer with your thumb and gently pull the trigger until you feel it move forward, and gently lower the hammer.

Condition Three. Chamber empty, magazine full, hammer down, safety off.
  1. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
  2. Pull the hammer back about half an inch into half-c*ck.
  3. Pour a measure of black powder into all but one cylinder and place a bullet on top of each charge.
  4. Use the rammer to shove down each bullet and charge firmly into the chamber.
  5. Place heavy grease around the front of each chamber; this reduces fouling and prevents chain fires.
  6. Place a percussion cap on the nipple on the back of each loaded chamber.
  7. Rotate the cylinder so that the empty chamber is sitting under the hammer.
  8. VERY CAREFULLY hold down the hammer with your thumb and gently pull the trigger until you feel it move forward, and gently lower the hammer.

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Unloading

How to unload the firearm and make safe. Presented in a numbered list.
  1. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
  2. Remove each percussion cap from the cylinder.
  3. Disassemble the weapon as described below.
  4. Unscrew and remove the nipples.
  5. Dump the powder out of each chamber and use a brass or wood punch (if using a steel punch, wrap tape around the end to protect the nipple threads) to carefully push each bullet out of the chamber.
  6. Reassemble the gun.

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Field Stripping

How to disassemble the firearm for cleaning. Presented in a numbered list.

  1. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
  2. Ensure that all of the percussion caps are removed.
  3. Tap out the lug on the side of the gun to free the barrel from the frame. Only push it until the barrel is free; it does not need to be removed.
  4. Pull the barrel and cylinder from the frame.
  5. Unload the weapon as described above.
Reverse to reassemble.



chitoryu12
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Keyword tags: 1851 antique black powder cap and ball colt firearm gun handgun percussion cap weapon
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deep_sea_diver cap n ball revolver 11 Jun 10 2011, 1:20 PM EDT by DLOWTHEMAD
Thread started: Jun 9 2011, 3:54 PM EDT  Watch
Thru 85 meters or so, my 1860 model army 44 is as lethal as a handgun needs to be for the first 6 shots. Reloading for the next 6 rounds, while hoards of zombies shamble towards you would give you time to reflect how custer felt at Little Bighorn.
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