Soda Can Launcher

Overview:
~~~~~~~~~
This is a very short "mortar" constructed for the express purpose of
launching soft drink cans straight up into the air. It is crude, prone to
rupture during use, and consumes rather inordinate amounts of Pyrodex.
But it sure is fun, and it makes an incredible amount of noise when it
goes off!

Construction Materials:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Large coffee can, empty, no lid
- Concrete mix, admixture, water, etc. (driveway repair mix okay)
- Steel reinforcing wire
- Full soft drink can (non-carbonated, if possible)
- Paper or thin flexible plastic sheeting
- Tape
- Vaseline
- Drill and drill bit to fit fuse wire

Construction Procedures:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tape either paper or plastic around the soft drink can, enclosing the
bottom of it as smoothly and consistently as possible. Try to avoid any
kinds of seams, and make a fairly tight fit with whatever size can you
intend to launch the most. This wrapped-up can will be used to form the
inside of the barrel (I refer to this as the barrel mandrel), so its
diameter is important. Some cans are slightly different diameters, so
make sure you choose one that is similar to the types of cans you intend
to launch. When wrapping the can, you may leave the top part open, but
the bottom must be sealed up smoothly.

When you have smoothly wrapped the full soft drink can in paper or
plastic, coat the sides of it with a smooth, thin layer of Vaseline. This
will ensure easy removal after the concrete has set.

Construct a basket out of the steel wire. This basket will sit inside the
coffee can and be encased in the concrete, providing tensile
reinforcement. Concrete is strong for compressive uses, but this is a
tensile use, and the addition of a reinforcing basket will greatly extend
the life and maximum loads of this mortar.

If you are unsure how close to space the wires of this basket, then
experiment, or ask someone who has experience with reinforcing concrete.
As a rule of thumb, the more reinforcing wire you have, the stronger it
will be, but only to a point. I would recommend a mesh of no closer than
1/2", and optimally I would recommend spacing the wires 1" (one inch)
apart from each other.

The inner portion of the basket must be large enough to handle the
displacement of the soft drink can barrel. Test this by putting the
reinforcing basket into the coffee can, then holding the barrel mandrel
approximately where it will go. Adjust the shape of the reinforcing
basket to accommodate the barrel mandrel.

When you are sure of the shape of your reinforcing basket, then tape it in
place inside the coffee can. This is only to hold it in place while the
concrete is poured.

Mix the concrete as directed. The stronger concrete you have the better,
but it's still probably going to end up blowing up after some amount of
use. It is better to err on the side of a little extra moisture in
the concrete mixture, to aid in the removal of air bubbles.

Pour the concrete into the coffee can, allowing it to flow smoothly around
the reinforcing basket. Do not fill the coffee can yet! When it is close
to full, press the barrel mandrel into the wet concrete right in the
center. Seat the mandrel to the required depth for your barrel length.
Add any more concrete mix you might need to fill the coffee can
completely.

Once everything is poured and the mandrel is straight and true (vertical),
shake the can, even banging it on a hard surface (this is where a non-
carbonated soda can comes in handy!) or rapping on the side of it with
your hands to try and settle the concrete and remove any air bubbles that
might weaken the structure.

After the concrete has completely set (anywhere up to a week or so),
carefully pull the barrel mandrel out and inspect your work. It may help
to rotate the mandrel as you withdraw it from the concrete. You should
have a perfectly-shaped shallow mortar made out of reinforced concrete.

If you wish, you may wipe the Vaseline out of the barrel. It is not
necessary to remove the Vaseline, as it will burn off within a few
launches. Before using this mortar, it is important to allow the concrete
to fully set. Depending on the brand of concrete, this could require up
to a full month! Don't jump the gun (pun intended), because incompletely
set concrete is far weaker, and will easily explode during launch.

When the concrete has fully set, use the drill bit to drill a flash hole.
Measure your barrel "depth" carefully and drill straight in from the side,
right into the very bottom part of the combustion chamber. Choose a drill
bit that is approximately the diameter of the fuzewire you intend to use,
and drill carefully to make sure it goes in straight. A drill press or
drill jig may be helpful to drill accurately.

Launch Materials:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Pyrodex
- Green hobby fuze
- Soft drink can
- Some type of load/filler for can
- Match or lighter

Launch Procedures:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Carefully review the safety notes contained at the bottom of this document
before you attempt a launch.

Choose an area of soft grass or dirt to place the mortar. It is best not
to place it on a hard surface, since there is nothing to absorb the launch
shock, and this will greatly reduce the useful life of the mortar. If you
must place it on a hard surface, then place it on a stack of old
newspapers or a telephone book to help cushion the launch shock.

A keen feature of this device is that you will be launching the contents
of a soda can. When starting out, you may want to just launch an empty
aluminum can, as this is very lightweight and will be a good first test of
your mortar-building skills. Later you may want to add some water or sand
to the can to increase its weight, and therefore its ultimate range.

When you have selected and filled up your projectile, slip it into the
barrel to ensure a good fit. Slightly loose is fine (less than 1/10th of
an inch diameter), but make sure it does NOT bind or stick firmly on the
way down to seat against the bottom of the barrel. When you are satisfied
with the smooth operation of the projectile within the barrel, remove the
projectile from the barrel.

Insert a length of fuze into the fuze hole, pushing out any remains of
burned fuze from a previous launch. Make sure some significant length of
the fuze reaches into the combustion chamber to ensure positive ignition.
For fire safety, put a small piece of tape over the fuze right where it
enters the side of the can.

Add a small amount of Pyrodex RS powder into the launch tube. When I say
"start small," a good amount is a teaspoon or less. You can always work
up to more if the mortar is holding together well. The powder should pile
up at the bottom of the barrel, and be touching the fuze wire enough to
ensure positive ignition.

WITHOUT placing the projectile into the barrel yet, position your mortar
at the launching site. I recommend keeping it nearly vertical, or at
least tipped no more than about 20 degrees from vertical. If the mortar
falls to one side after launch, it can damage itself. If the mortar falls
over during fuze burn, there is NO TELLING where that projectile is going
to go sideways!

When you are ready to launch, slip the projectile into the barrel, again
testing to make sure it doesn't bind or scrape too badly on the way in.
Light the fuze and go and run really, really far away and hide behind a
LARGE SOLID OBJECT! Boulders are great places to hide behind, but make
sure the projectile doesn't come down on your head afterwards.

To reuse this mortar, remove any unburnt or partially burnt fuze and/or
gunpowder. Make sure no embers remain. It is usually not necessary to
clean the mortar between launches, unless enough grease builds up that it
becomes difficult to insert the fuze or load the powder.

BEFORE re-use, carefully inspect the mortar, looking particularly at the
concrete for signs of structural failures, cracks, chips, bulges, etc.
If the mortar becomes cracked, THROW IT AWAY! DO NOT CONTINUE USING A
CRACKED MORTAR. THE NEXT TIME IT WILL MOST LIKELY EXPLODE!

Theory of Operation:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The ignition of the gunpowder will generate gas pressure inside the
combustion chamber, and hopefully the weak link will be the soft drink
can, which should go skyrocketing out of the mortar. If you load too much
powder or weight into the can, you may rupture the mortar. This brings me
to Load Notes.

Load Notes:
~~~~~~~~~~~
The more powder you put in the mortar, the more total expanded gas might
be generated during ignition. I say "might" because if you choose a very
light projectile (an empty soda can), then it will leave the barrel long
before the powder has burned fully, thereby relieving pressure on the
mortar.

Conversely, if you choose too heavy a projectile, it will not have left by
the time the powder fully burns, and depending on the amount of powder and
gasses generated, it could exceed the structural strength of the mortar.

Remember that every time you make the projectile heavier, that means when
the powder burns it has to press a bit harder against the projectile to
get it to move. It also means that the projectile will tend to stay in
the barrel longer, allowing more of the powder to burn under pressure,
generating higher and higher chamber pressures. As all handloaders and
black powder enthusiasts know, a TINY increase in projectile weight or
powder load can result in a DRASTIC increase in chamber pressure, and
rapidly lead to structural failure.

IF YOU MAKE TOO MUCH PRESSURE INSIDE THIS MORTAR, IT WILL STRUCTURALLY
FAIL AND THEN EXPLODE LIKE A GRENADE!!!!

Lighter loads will extend the useful life of your mortar. Heavy loads
will stress the concrete more and cause it to crack earlier. But they
sure are fun!

Safety Notes:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This device can KILL! Do not attempt any of this without careful
supervision from someone who has experience with constructing explosive
devices. Do not attempt this without proper eye, hearing and hand
protection, in case of accidental detonation or mortar rupture. Do NOT
smoke while operating this device, as accidental detonation may occur.

When the projectile leaves the barrel mouth, there will be a fairly
impressive blast wave emanating from the device, so be sure to wear
hearing protection.

The coffee can around the concrete MAY aid in the capture and retention of
concrete shrapnel should the mortar fail, but don't count on it. Big
pieces of high-speed concrete can quickly ruin your day.

Exploding Arrow

cardboard tube (toilet paper roll)
rap in saran rap leaving the top open
fill with BP and shrapnel
seal it off with more saran rap take a nail and put a hole in the caseing for the fuse
put in the fuse then tape the fuse in place
tape to an arrow and have fun

it will only light with magnesium strips as the fuse.


Supersoaker Flamethrower
This is probably not the ideal thing to use against the undead, but you never know when a good flamethrower will be useful. This version is rather dangerous, but anything worth doing is...
Supplies
Any water gun (the kind that has a large tank for water and the pump that you provide pressure with)
Lighter fluid (any flammable liquid will work, but lighter fluid is probably the safest)
Duct tape
Matches (or a Zippo lighter; the kind that stays light when you open it)
Procedure

1. Fit the lighter or a match so that any liquid exiting the gun will come into contact with the flame.
2. Tape the lighter or match there. If it's a match, you'll have to remove it in order for the gun to be fired.
3. Fill the tank with lighter fluid.
4. Pump it up.
5. Light the match or lighter.
6. Burn the zombie menace.

Warning(s)

• Don't let the flame get back to the tank! Shoot short, controlled bursts.
• This gun WILL hurt you if you handle it carelessly!
• This website nor I am liable for anything you burn or otherwise destroy because of this plan. Sorry...

This video should clear up any questions about the flamethrower:





Napalm Bomb
Supplies:
Styrofoam cup
Gasoline
Saran wrap (just a suggestion)
Duct tape
Any sort of fuse

Procedure:
Fill a Styrofoam cup with gas. Just a little bit! Fix saran wrap over the open end of the cup. Duct tape it to make sure that no gas gets out. Duct taping over the saran wrap is probably a good idea. Now, tip it upside down and put the fuse through the closed(little) end of the cup. Light fuse, throw, duck behind cover.

Results:
The gas is absorbed into the Styrofoam, creating napalm. When the fire from the fuse hits the gas/gas fumes still in the cup, it will explode, throwing napalm everywhere.

Notes:
I've done this, it works VERY WELL. Do NOT attempt if you aren't competent! Napalm burns and does NOT stop. If it hits your arm, go to the hospital. So, in other words, be very, VERY careful.


IPN

IPN, an acronym for isopropyl nitrate, is a volatile white liquid with an ether like smell that has anesthetic properties at low concentrations, as well as causing headaches if inhaled or spilled on the skin. Ingesting or constant inhalation of quantities exceeding 4% for two or more hours is lethal. Quantities as low as 0.2% show no ill effects. IPN has been used as rocket propellant and jet starter fuel, as well as an explosive. The liquid is stable for the most part although it is flammable.

Synthesis:

To prepare IPN, isopropyl alcohol is nitrated continuously by adding a mixture of 61% nitric acid with 95% isopropyl alcohol, saturated with urea, into a Florence flask set up for distillation containing boiling 50% nitric acid. The IPN and water formed are continuously distilled off at about 98 °C from the reaction mixture. The volume of the reaction mixture is held constant by drainage of nitric acid and unstable by-products from it as the reactants are added. Unless you have a special flask with a stopcock on the bottom, you will have to periodically disconnect the flask from the condenser and dump out some of the used nitric acid. You will also have to momentarily disconnect the flask to add more acid/alcohol mix if you do not have an addition funnel. Be very careful doing this as you will subject yourself to a blast of acid fumes. A curtain of air, nitrogen, or carbon dioxide is blown through the reaction mixture to improve mixing and to facilitate the elimination of the volatile products. However, a flow of inert gas in excess of 50 L/hr decreases the IPN yield. The optimum ratio of nitric acid to isopropyl alcohol is about 2:1. The IPN yield is 78%.


RDX

Materials

Hexamethylenetetramine (Hexamin)
-Drug stores under the names Hexamin, Urotropine, and Methenamine.

Nitric Acid
-Chemical supply house or some hardware stores.

Acetone
-Drug stores and hardware stores

Scale with gram accuracy

Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups

Thermometer 20-100 degrees celcius or 68-212
degrees Fahrenheit

Several large quart canning jars

Two large basins or bowls made of metal or
some other heatable metal

Paper Towels


Procedure


1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning jar
and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F)
by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.

2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the temperature
between your basins of hot and cold water.

3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamine. Then
start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute
time period. All the while maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30
degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins.

4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55
degrees celcius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then
maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.

5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin
of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees celcius (68 F). Now when the
solution reaches 20 degrees celcius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and
white salt will appear.

6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter the
Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another
jar.

7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of
fresh cold water and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid.
Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.

8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar
2/3 full of acetone and heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to
it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.

9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and
let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again into it's
salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another jar and
rinse it with cold water the same way you did before. Now you have the
finished product roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX.

10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in a jar with a air tight
lid for future use. Seeing that RDX does not lose it's effectiveness for
months.



Uses

RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes to
make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for making
detonators in which RDX will be used along with other explosives before
mentioned. RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as an
explosive by itself. It is also commonly refereed to as Clyclonite.



How to make fuse's & fuse information

Proper fusing of fireworks and knowing which type of fuse to use is one of the most crucial parts of a fireworks display. Though using fuse seems to be easy, the consequences of careless or incorrect fusing can result entire sections of a display firing prematurely or not at all, neither of which you want to happen. It’s terribly embarrassing to have a rack of shells, a portion of repeaters, or a letter of a set piece fail to fire in front of friends and family, all because of something simple like a fuse not being connected right. Below you will learn about several types of fuse, how they are made, their pros and cons, and how to use each one effectively. All of the methods of ignition listed below have been tested and used by me personally time and time again, and I find them to be extremely reliable.

Visco

Visco fuse, also known as "safety fuse", "cannon fuse", "slow visco", or just "fuse", is the most commonly-used and well-known type of fuse in fireworks. It consists of a multiple layers of threads woven around a core of black powder in such a fashion that the threads don't unravel. Some types of visco have been coated in a nitrocellulose lacquer solution to make it waterproof. It is available in red, green, and red/white/blue striped varieties, and in several different diameters - the larger ones being more reliable.

Visco is one of the slowest-burning fuses, transmitting fire at about 0.4 inches/second (or, as it is more commonly measured, 2.5 seconds/inch or 30 seconds/foot). This makes it ideal for creating delays - all consumer fireworks in the United States have a visco fuse, which allows the person lighting the device to retreat to a safe distance before it ignites. Pyros who put on 1.4G fireworks displays commonly use it on cake boards to control the timing between the sequential ignition of cakes (e.g., a 1-foot piece of visco between two cakes would give a 30 second delay between ignitions, allowing the second cake the begin firing before the first finishes). It can also be used in shell racks to create a slow-paced firing sequence, as the 1-2 inch gap between adjacent mortars in a rack would allow for a 3-5 second delay between shell launches and subsequent bursts.

Visco fuse is sold at most pyrotechnic supply companies, including Skylighter, Firefox, and Cannon fuse.com (all of which I have personally purchased from). It can also be found in some gun shops under the name "cannon fuse" (it's used by model cannon enthusiasts), but the price per foot is typically much higher. As mentioned previously, I prefer the thickest visco available (typically 3 mm in diameter) that has a waterproof coating - this makes it resistant to drizzle and errant sparks.

Fast Visco

As the name implies, fast visco is a variant of standard visco fuse that burns at a much faster pace - typically 4 inches second (or 3 seconds/foot); ten times the rate as regular ("slow") visco. The only type of consumer firework that uses fast visco is the aerial shell, which requires a fast fuse so that the overall burn time falls within the required 3-6 second parameter for consumer fireworks in the US.

Fast visco mostly finds use in finales (or just a quickly-paced portion of a show), where the pyro wishes to ignite a number of fireworks in rapid succession. For instance, a board of four cakes placed one foot apart (measuring from fuse-to-fuse) with quick visco connected to each cakes's main fuse will, when lit, ignite each cake within 15 seconds of each other. A 2-foot long mortar rack containing shells connected to one length of quick visco will result in each shell bursting within about a second of the next one, creating a fast-paced, exciting display.

Like regular visco, fast visco can be found at most pyro suppliers, including the ones listed above. Though the fast visco seen on shells is usually green, it is usually sold in yellow so as not to be confused with slow visco.

Sticky Match

Sticky match is made of two strips of clear cellophane tape containing a thin trail of finely-ground black powder. One of the tape strips is wider than the other, making the outer edges of one side of the fuse sticky. Sticky match is available in two varieties: fast (burns at 80-100 feet/second), and slow (burns at 1-2 feet/second). The fast variety is used where near-instantaneous ignition of multiple devices is required - particularly with lance work in the world of 1.3G fireworks. Unlike quick match, sticky match can be quickly and easily attached to lances (the black powder trail is centered over the lance, then the sticky edges are folded down over the body), and leaves behind almost no residue when it burns. It can also be used in 1.4G finale boards, but since the thin tape layer is all that protects the black powder grains from sparks, it is very prone to accidental ignition from falling sparks or nearby fuses.

Quick Match

Quick match is an extremely rapid-burning fuse mostly used in 1.3G fireworks to ignite clusters of fireworks at nearly the same instant. It consists of a loose-fitting paper tube (about 1/4 inch in diameter) surrounding a cotton string that has been impregnated with a black powder solution. When the string (known as black match, without the paper tube) burns, the paper tube forces the large volume of hot gas and sparks forward, igniting the next section of match which creates more gas/sparks, and so on. This causes the quick match to burn at upwards of 100 feet per second, which allows it be used to set off rocket volleys, finale shell chains, candle racks, or other devices separated by a long distance.

In the US, quick match is considered a 1.3G item and thus cannot be purchased without a BATFE permit. If one has such a permit, it can be purchased from dealers like Skylighter and Victory (though Skylighter will not ship it). Quick match can also be made for your own personal use.

Less-common fuse types

The following is a brief description of some of the less commonly used types of fuse in the world of fireworks

Paper Fuse

Also known has "firecracker fuse", paper fuse is seen almost exclusively in strands of firecrackers. Likely the earliest type of fuse, it is made a thin trail of black powder wrapped with a thin tissue paper. Most people who have lit firecrackers (or unraveled them to scavenge the fuse) know that this type of fuse is rather unreliable; prone to burning at wildly varying rates and spontaneously sputtering out (and sometimes restarting). However, it can be placed in a paper tube to make quick match. Available from Cannon fuse.com and Skylighter.

Time Fuse

This type of fuse is used in aerial shells as a time delay between the lift charge and burst charge. Its multiple layers of twine, paper, and asphalt make it nearly impossible to ignite from the outside (even from an end, since the asphalt often melts and seals it off before the powder can ignite), meaning that shell makers must cut into it and insert a short piece of black match fuse sideways in order to ensure ignition of the time fuse's black powder core. Time fuse burns at about 3 seconds/inch. Available from Cannon fuse.com and Skylighter.

Special Effects Fuse

Special effects fuse includes flying fish fuse, falling leaves fuse, and strobe fuse, and are most often cut up into short pieces and used as shell inserts (along with or in place of stars) rather than as means of transmitting fire between devices. Flying fish fuse creates a rocket-like effect as it burns, enabling small pieces of itself to fly randomly across the sky (producing the well-known "flying fish" effect). Falling leaves fuse produces gentle, long-lasting sparks. Strobe fuse creates bright strobe pulses as it burns, much like consumer strobe pots. All specialty fuses are available in a variety of different colors from Cannon fuse.com and Skylighter.


QUIK MACH
MATERIALS

- length of tape fuse
- 1 roll of kraft paper
- 1 5/16 – 3ft long dowel rod
- 1 roll of standard masking tape

OPTIONAL MATERIALS

- Latex gloves for mess avoidance/clean up


Procedure
Put on the latex gloves and cut 3-4 inch wide strips of kraft paper the entire length of the kraft paper (unroll the kraft paper as you would to cut the paper for wrapping a box). Using the wooden dowel rod, wrap the paper strips around the dowel rode. Use the masking tape to tape the pipe close – running the tape down the entire length of the quick match pipe. Note, the pipe doesn’t have to be the exact size of the dowel rod, in fact a little bit bitter makes the tape fuse go in a little bit easier. After making up several pipes (usually about 3 ft long each), your ready to load the tape fuse into the pipe. Tape (or leave a piece of tape untouched with BP) the end of your tape fuse to the wooden dowel used to make the quick match pipe. Slide the quick match pipe over the dowel rod and over the tape fuse, using the dowel rod to pull the tape fuse through the pipe. Repeat this process until either your quick match pipes are used up or you’ve ran out of tape fuse. Cut (with a pocket or sharp knife – not scissors or anything that sheers) or remove the tape off the dowel rod, tape the quick match pipes together with masking tape and you’re done!


STICKY MACH
MATERIALS

- 1 lb of FFFg or equivalent black powder
- 1 roll of transparent tape (scotch tape)
- 1 dish – plastic or glass
- 1 non sparking item to push or roll the tape into the BP

OPTIONAL MATERIALS

- Latex gloves and newspaper for mess avoidance/clean up
- Paper funnel to pour excess product back into container



Procedure

Put on the latex gloves and place news paper on a flat working surface like a desk or bench.


Pour approximately 2-4 tablespoons of black powder into the dish, spread out evenly. Next, using the transparent tape, dip the sticky side of the tape down into the dish and use a non-sparking device to push the tape into the black powder. We used a baby food jar as shown (note we used a total of 3 people, one to hold the tape, one to process the black powder to the tape and a third to hold and walk the sticky match as it was being processed.

Synthesis Of Acetone Peroxide

For this, we're gonna need a few things, all of which should be available from your hardware store, supermarket or pharmacy. Don't buy it all in one place.

* 30% HCl (Hydrochloric acid)
* 3% H2O2 (Hydrogen peroxide)
* Acetone

None of that is expensive. You should be able to find the acid as 'Muriatic Acid' as driveway cleaner or in the pool section for lowering the pH of your pool. Furthermore, any volumes referred to here are for the given concentrations - if you have a different concentrate. of reagent, either adjust the ratios or dilute/reflux it.

You'll also need

* 60ml syringe
* Two 30ml syringes
* Two glass jars
* Fridge
* Thermometer
* Coffee filters

1. Chill the H2O2, acetone, and glass jars in the freezer. Remember, if glass is heated suddenly after being cold, it will expand unevenly and shatter. Bad to have acetone and glass fragments in freezer.

2. Measure out 25ml of acetone into one of the smaller syringes and put it in the first jar. Then add 150ml of H2O2 using the 60ml syringe and then chill it again for about half an hour.

3. Next measure out 20ml of HCl in the other 30ml syringe and add it very slowly! It's easiest to put the nozzle of the syringe just below the surface, rest the dyringe on the rim of your jar and carefully push the plunger. Then stir it gently with a glass rod, and refrigerate overnight

After 12-18 hours there will be little white crystals on the bottom, THESE ARE ACETONE PEROXIDE. BE CAREFUL.

4. Take a coffee filter, or stocking, or filter paper and put it over the second jar, next pour all the liquid and AP into the filter and let it drain through leaving a whitish paste on the filter.

5. Take the filter away from the jar and leave it to sit on some newspaper in the air to dry out for a while. When it's dry it will look like a white powder.

6. AP is very sensitive, to test this, put on safety glasses, gloves and old clothes. Take a tiny amount (just the tip of a teaspoon) and put it on a sheet of newspaper OUTSIDE on a hard surface. Then, place the round side of the teaspoon on top, and rap the spoon with another spoon. The AP should detonate with a loud report.

AP, like all organic peroxides (a class of explosive including things like HMTD) do not react well to metals, they form unstable metal peroxides and go off without warning. Store AP in a sealed glass or plastic container in amounts less than 300g (at ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM) and never for more then a week. No threaded containers, no screw-top jars.

AP can also be used as an initiator for more insensitive explosives. To make a simple visco AP cap, take a plastic bic pen and hacksaw it down, leaving you with about a centimeter of plastic barrel before the point (make sure none of it is metal!). Seal the point with a dot of hot glue and gently add a small amount of AP. Get your safety fuse, and dip it momentarily in nitrocellulose lacquer (this can be made by dissolving most kinds of ping-pong ball in acetone). before it dries, gently roll it in AP to give it a coating. Slide the fuse into the barrel, seal the joint with a small amount of electrical tape and dip the whole thing in NC about a inch up the fuse. You're done!


12ga pistol this single shot 12ga is grate for your last resort
9mm mp this can be made from sheet metal, pluming parts, and some other mis parts

Bow drill

Introduction This is by far, the most challenging facet of learning the bow-drill. Without a knife or cordage, the construction of a set can take several hours longer. Much more time is spent looking for pieces that must be just right. Most of your time will be spent walking around. Another chunk of your time will be spent bashing and grinding wood and stone. Much more energy is required to create the coal, and the reliability of the set and your ability in producing a coal is less than with a knife and cord. However, the rewards of giving birth to a coal in the purest form are worth it, even if you never you use it in a survival situation.

Making your own Cords Barry Keegan is the authority on natural materials for cords and if you want an intensive coverage of this subject than please take a look at his article. This will be a more general discussion and will only include the more reliable materials and methods. In terms of plant materials, there are three main classes of potential cordage material. These are: roots, tree/shrub bark and herbaceous fibres. From left to right: dogbane, basswood, white elm, bitternut hickory, white spruce root. Roots The successful roots are generally those from the coniferous trees, such as pine and spruce. Deciduous trees do not seem to have strong enough roots for bow-drill cords but there are exceptions. As with trying out different woods, you should make a habit of digging up a root (a little less than pencil thickness) from a new species and testing it by trying to break it with all your strength. If it doesn’t snap than you should experiment with it further. To prepare a root for use as a bow-drill string, just dig it up, being careful not to break it. It should be about pencil thickness, straight, and with little taper. Try to avoid roots that have major branches. Try to get a root that is at least one and a half times the length of your bow. Carefully remove and root hairs and “saw” the root around a tree branch to abrade a seam in the root’s bark. Carefully peel away the bark and wipe off the sap. Tie the ends of the root as you would for a normal string and load it into the spindle. It will be harder to load than a regular string because of the stiffness of the root so just ease it in. Any small roots can be used for tie-off cordage on your bow splits. Use clove hitches as these are easily to tie with stiff, bulky cordage. Start stroking as you normally would, but make sure you keep the bow pointing down away from you. If the bow is perfectly horizontal, the root will rub on itself and abrade much more quickly. Keep the root moist between uses. If the root dries out it will immediately snap when used again. If it does dry out, you will have to soak it to make it pliable again. Tree/Shrub Barks Barks require a little more preparation then roots. You will need to peel off the bark without ripping it. This is easiest in the spring and summer. First, find a relatively straight, long branch. It should be about the thickness of your pinky finger. The longer it is, the better. It should be twice the length of your bow. Also, make sure it has no scars or dead sections. Cut it off the tree and remove any small branchlets. Using your knife or by pounding an end with a rock, start a split. If the branch is curved, split it so that you end up with two flat halves (i.e., along the flat plane). In order to split it without breaking the wood, you have to keep the split even on both sides. If the split starts to run off to one side, pull more on the thicker half. Also, don’t pull back on the halves, try to keep them straight. One way of doing this is to put the unsplit end under your armpit and carefully use both hands at once. You can also push your thumb into the split to move it along. Once it is split, remove the bark in the same manner. It is not important if the wood breaks during this but do not break the bark! In other words, you can pull more on the wooden half than the bark half. Keep the bark half in a straight line. If the bark doesn’t want to peel than you can pound on it with a wooden stick. Use a smooth stick and anvil. You can really hammer hard and pay special attention to areas around knots/branches as they tend to stick if not hammered. The two halves can then be reverse wrapped. You can also just simply twist them together. This is faster but not as strong. It is also a little more difficult to handle as the fibres are just loose. You may want to remove the outer bark at this point as it can be quite bulky and stiff on some trees and may wear out the string prematurely. Tie each end into a half-hitch and use as normal. Use the same technique as for roots. Any leftover bark can be used as tie-off cordage for the splits in your bow. Again, use clove hitches. Make sure you wipe down the string before use. A damp string actually increases the grip on the spindle, which is very helpful. If the string is too wet or slimy, however, it will slip badly. Also, letting the string dry out a bit reduces that mushy sensation. This will absorb a lot of your energy. The thinner your string, the less energy this sponge effect steals away. Of course, strings can only be made so thin before they are too weak. Thick strings will be strong enough, but getting a coal will be next to impossible because the string will absorb all your energy. Also, the spindle will go through fewer rotations per stroke because the string is effectively shortened by its own girth. The maximum string thickness I would use would be about the diameter of my pinky finger. Anything thicker just sucks up too much energy. As with roots, bark strings must be damp when in use or they will break. The key to using successful bark strings is the type of species the bark comes from. Basswood and hickory are very good. American elm will also work. Mulberry has been known to work. There are many trees to try. Next time you are out in the woods, cut a small branch of about pencil thickness and peel it as described above. Wrap it and try breaking it. If it is very difficult then try making a full string from it. Make this sampling of barks a regular habit. Fibres From Herbaceous Plants Finally, there are the herbaceous fibres. These include dogbane, nettle, milkweed, etc. These are best used in the fall when the fibres have fully developed. Remove the fibres using the same technique for barks. Generally, the stalks will already be dry so pounding will do little good, instead damaging the fibres. Just crush the stalk so it splits. Open it up so it is a flat strip and break off short sections of the woody core, starting at one end. Make sure you get all the woody bits out or they will cut into the string in use. After cleaning the fibres, reverse wrap them and splice so your cord is about one and a half times the length of your bow and about pinky thick. You can dampen the string to increase the grip on the spindle. It should be evident that you will be forced to use a bow that is shorter than the ideal length. This is particularly true for bark strings, which don’t splice well. Try to make your bow as long as you can without having to compromise on the string. If the bow is long and you have to include weak sections of cordage to cover the length, you well just end up with a broken string.

Stone Tools Two large choppers, a gouger, and three carving tools. Stone tools can be categorized into the purpose they will serve. For example, abraders, drills, etc. For a bow-drill you will need a chopper, abrader, carver, and gouger. The abrader may take the place of the chopper and the carver. A carver may not be needed if you have a chopper and abrader. The gouger is not really necessary. You could substitute a piece of hard wood instead. The following techniques work best with the softer woods. The chopper is any rock with a fine grain. It doesn’t have to be a particularly tough rock. It should be shaped roughly like a teardrop. One end should come to a point and the other end should be a rounded bulge. Basically the same thing as the ancient hand-axes. The more weight it has, the better. Of course it shouldn’t be so heavy as to tire you out after a few chops. It should fit comfortably in the hand if possible. Usually, you will have to make due with cobbles that are about the right size and flake off sections to produce a crude blade at one end. A wide variety of rocks will work. Limestone is relatively weak, but easily worked. It should hold together on soft woods. Andesite and other fine-grained igneous rocks, such as basalt, are a good choice. These will be more difficult to work, especially if all you have are rounded river cobbles. Cherts and flints make good choppers if you can find pieces big enough to use. Stay away from rocks that crumble easily, like shale and sandstone. Granite is generally too coarse-grained although it is worth trying. Obsidian is way too brittle. The technique of using hand-axes is simple. Just smash the section of wood you want to shape. Use a sturdy log as a workbench. Focus the direction of the blows along the grain of the wood. In other words, don’t chop straight down. Chop at an angle to the branch. The effect is to push and pulverize the wood off in the direction of least resistance - the grain. It isn’t pretty but it works. As you pound the wood, it will separate along the grain and you will be able to peel off short sections of the annual rings (also known as splints). Keep pounding hard until you have gotten through enough to make a controlled break. The angle that the cut will have will be huge compared to an axe because the blade on the rock must be so thick to avoid crumbling. Generally, the only time you need to do this is for the ends of the spindle. You will need to start with a branch that is already the diameter you want your finished spindle to be, otherwise it will take forever to whittle it down.. It must be straight. Make sure the ends of the spindle taper roughly to points. You will finish tapering the ends with either an abrader or a carver. The abrader can be virtually any type of rock. Obviously, something glassy, like obsidian, won’t work. Sandstone is probably the best. Gneiss and sometimes granite will work. This is used like you would use a file. You can also use abraders more like saws if they are shaped right. The ends of the spindle, the notch, and the ends of the bow can be shaped/cut using an abrader. For the notch, you will need a thin flake. The ends of the spindle however, can be abraded against exposed bedrock or a large slab. Carvers are rocks that hold sharp edges. These are typically the cherts, flints, and obsidians, among others. These are more useful as fine-shaping tools. The choppers will produce a quick, messy end that needs to be cleaned up. Carvers allow very nice whittling to be done, but take too long for any bulk work. Using simple, hard-hammer percussion, break off some small flakes from a core and replace when they get dull. Make sure you don’t twist the flakes as you push them into the wood or they will crumble. Take off little shavings of wood until you get the shape you want. Gougers are just any type of rock that doesn’t crumble easily and holds a rough point. These are just hand-held drill bits. Use these to start the holes in the handhold and the board. Really, anything can be used for this, such as antler, bone, or even a piece of hard wood.

Actually Building and Using the Set One way of shouldering the end of the spindle without a steel knife if to chop just the last couple inches. Instead of chopping at an angle, chop straight down. This will cause the growth rings to separate and you can peel them off until the end of the spindle is the diameter you want. The spindle end has been reduced in diameter with a chopper. The bow is made as with a knife, with a few changes. Since you will not have a thin blade to wedge into the ends to start the splits you need to do this differently. When you are removing the bow limb from the tree (remember, it must be green), only cut/abrade/chop half-way through. Then, carefully split the branch by pulling it away form the cut. Then cut/abrade/chop through the other half to separate it from the tree. The other end can be done in a similar way. Make sure you keep in mind the orientation of the bow and the split. You want the split to be in the same plane as the bow so make your initial cut accordingly. Notice the wrap of cordage below the main bowstring. This keeps the bow from splitting further. The clove hitch knot is excellent for this application. The board should be quite thin, about the thickness of your pinky. The string will simply not be able to handle the torque of spinning a spindle in a deep hole. The notch should not be made too big or the spindle may pop out. You will probably have to make a new hole and notch each attempt. The handhold can be made from one of the pieces you rejected when trying to snap out a board from a thick branch. The shape of the handhold is not important, as long as it doesn’t get in the way of the bow. Don’t bother cleaning up the ends, you just waste time. Try to make the handhold hole using the rock as much as possible. Burning both ends of the spindle at once puts a lot of strain on the string and your arm. Sometimes you can skip the handhold burn-in completely if the hole is big enough and it matches the spindle tip. Remember, make the hole nice and deep to prevent the spindle from popping out. Making the end of the spindle into a fat half-sphere reduces unwanted burning. If you let the string dry out, you will have a greater chance of getting a coal. You don’t want it completely dry. It is almost always easier to get a coal if you let the cord dry out overnight and then re-hydrate it the next day. That sponginess is thus greatly eliminated. This may not be feasible in a real situation though.

Wrap-Up Putting all the parts together in the forest is not a simple or easy task. If you cannot find any rocks to use, what can you do? This is a very real possibility in some places. Also, a covering of snow and frozen ground pose serious problems if you were to depend on getting a fire from scratch in a real survival situation. You are looking at an average of half a day to find and make all the components of a bow-drill set and this is in favourable conditions! It is much easier and faster to make a fire using bow-drill if you have a steel knife and some strong cordage to use. Even a partially-reliable full survival bow-drill set requires many hundreds of hours of practice to produce a coal on the first attempt, from scratch, in the bush. Even so, actually being able to give birth to a coal without relying even one bit on the tools of civilization is a feeling that hits you like a truck. You are taking the bow-drill to its purest form. There is a direct communication between the natural materials that went into it and yourself. It is not something you will ever forget!

http://wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/fire/bowdrill/pmoc/primitivesurvivalbowdrill.html
Shelters When you are in a survival situation and realize that shelter is a high priority, start looking for shelter as soon as possible. As you do so, remember what you will need at the site. Two requisites are-- · It must contain material to make the type of shelter you need. · It must be large enough and level enough for you to lie down comfortably. When you consider these requisites, however, you cannot ignore your tactical situation or your safety. You must also consider whether the site-- · Provides concealment from enemy observation. · Has camouflaged escape routes. · Is suitable for signaling, if necessary. · Provides protection against wild animals and rocks and dead trees that might fall. · Is free from insects, reptiles, and poisonous plants. You must also remember the problems that could arise in your environment. For instance-- · Avoid flash flood areas in foothills. · Avoid avalanche or rockslide areas in mountainous terrain. · Avoid sites near bodies of water that are below the high water mark. In some areas, the season of the year has a strong bearing on the site you select. Ideal sites for a shelter differ in winter and summer. During cold winter months you will want a site that will protect you from the cold and wind, but will have a source of fuel and water. During summer months in the same area you will want a source of water, but you will want the site to be almost insect free. When considering shelter site selection, use the word BLISS as a guide. B - Blend in with the surroundings. L - Low silhouette. I - Irregular shape. S - Small. S - Secluded location.

surch and rescue/survival kit

STANDARD PERSONAL SEARCH AND SURVIVAL EQUIPMENT
(Revised January, 2005) Wear on your body: A heavy duty pocket knife (recommended is a 3-5 inch folding knife with a locking blade) or multipurpose tool, a compass and whistle around your neck, and a watch. Packs: We actually have two packs: a "24-hour" pack, which is a basic "search and survival" pack and is required on all searches, and a "48-hour pack", which is a larger pack carrying the things you'll need if the search lasts more than a day.

A "pack sack" is a sack of bags. You should have a clothes bag, a food bag, a first aid kit, etc. These can be "stuff sacks" you buy at outdoor stores, or you can use heavy-duty Zip-lock bags or Tupperware-type sealable plastic containers.

24-hour pack: In a small backpack:

1. A small flashlight
2. A quart-size water bottle
3. A small tarp or heavy plastic sheet (at least 10' x 12')
4. Heavy gloves (leather recommended)
5. Insulated or wool gloves for winter
6. A folding saw
7. 50 to 100 feet of twine
8. Sierra cup and spoon (you can carry a complete "mess kit" if you want, but all you really need are a cup and a spoon)
9. Sunglasses or climbing goggles
10. A roll of surveyor's flagging tape
11. A Sterno stove (or a backpacking stove, if you already own one)
12. Personal comfort kit
13. First aid kit
14. Survival kit
15. Repair kit

Survival kit:

1. Water purification (iodine tablets, chlorine, filter, etc.)
2. 24 Matches in a waterproof container
3. Firestarters (candle stubs, fire ribbon, etc.)
4. 1 Spare compass, 5 degree increments
5. 1 Spare knife
6. Scratch paper and a pencil
7. About 1/8 cup of sugar in a sealed container (a couple of restaurant sugar packets are fine)
8. Instant coffee, tea, chocolate, etc.
9. 2 Packets of instant soup
10. 1 medium size plastic garbage bag
11. change - for phone calls, munchies, etc.

Repair kit:

1. A needle, medium size
2. A small bobbin of thread
3. 2 Safety pins
4. 1 Extra boot lace
5. 12" piece of bailing wire
6. A spare flashlight bulb and spare batteries (sealed so they stay dry)
7. A small roll of tape (you can buy small rolls of duct tape at outdoor stores)

First aid kit:

1. 4 4"x4" sterile gauze pads
2. 5 Band aids
3. 5 Aspirin or Tylenol tablets
4. 3 Antacids (Rolaids or however you spell relief)
5. 1 Triangular bandage
6. Roll of 1- or 2-inch wide roller gauze (Kling)
7. Tube or bottle of antiseptic
8. Small roll of adhesive tape (waterproof)
9. Rubber gloves (we will supply these)
10. Any personal medications, such as allergy pills, etc.

You might also want to add other things, such as foot powder, scissors, moleskin, tweezers, a snake bite kit, wound wipes, or whatever -- just remember, the more you add, the heavier the kit (and your pack) will be. Personal comfort kit:

1. Some toilet paper, wrapped so it stays dry
2. Insect repellant
3. Sunscreen (highest SPF you can find)
4. Chapstick
5. A small bar or tube of soap
6. Some paper towels, which can become dish towels, handkerchiefs, toilet paper, etc.

48-hour pack: In a larger frame pack, ordinarily left at Base:

1. A sleeping bag
2. A ground cloth or foam insulating pad
3. A rain jacket and rain pants
4. A change of underwear and socks
5. A spare shirt and pants
6. Wouldn't be a bad idea to keep a sweater and a pair of synthetic or wool pants in your 48 too, for cold weather (see below)
7. Enough food for one emergency meal: freeze dried, powdered, Ramen, etc.
8. A couple of garbage bags

You can also carry a backpacking stove and/or a tent in your 48 hour pack if you own them. You won't be allowed to use them during your survival trainings, but you will be able to use them during actual search missions. Miscellaneous hints:

1. Always bring a sack lunch for the first meal. Remember, the first meal is always up to you, whether it's on a search or a training.
2. Keep a supply of "nibble food" in a plastic bag in your pack: peanuts, raisins, M & M's, etc.
3. Always be prepared for any kind of weather. Bring your rain gear on all trainings and searches, on the theory that it's better to have it and not need it than the other way around.
4. Label everything with your name, so that when (not if, when) you lose it, we can get it back to you. If it's not labeled, we won't waste our time trying to find out who it belongs to.
5. Restock your pack after each search or training.
6. Wrap your sleeping bag in a plastic bag so it doesn't get wet. pants.

UNIFORM In general, either the main or alternate uniform are OK for searches, trainings or events. In the case of "formal" events, the Advisor in Charge may decide to require everybody to wear the khaki shirt instead of the t-shirt. Shirt: Orange t-shirt ("Marion County Search & Rescue" logo on front and "Search and Rescue" on back).
Alternate: Khaki shirt with patches (ask where patches go). Pants: Jeans; must be in good condition (no rips, tears, paint stains, etc.)
Alternate: Military fatigues or BDU's, again in good condition.
In cold weather: fleece or wool. Jacket: Red, orange or yellow parka or rain jacket; hooded style recommended.
Alternate: Reflective traffic vest. Hat: Unit-supplied hard hat.
Alternate: Black or brown baseball cap with a patch on front: Senior patch for Seniors and Sheriff star patch for Advisors.
Recruit members are not allowed to have patches. Jewelry: Watches are required in the field. Whether other jewelry is allowed will be decided on a case-by-case basis.
COLD WEATHER EQUIPMENT LIST Your 24-hour pack contains basic survival equipment; your 48-hour pack contains the equipment you need for overnight. THESE TWO PACKS ARE BASIC; the equipment listed below is added to the basic equipment. Clothing (from the skin up):

1. wear regular cotton underwear
2. long underwear, either synthetic or duo-fold (this is a two-layer garment, the inner layer is cotton, the outer is synthetic or wool)
3. lightweight synthetic or wool shirt or sweater
4. another light shirt or sweater, or a lightweight synthetic insulated jacket or vest (not down)
5. fleece or wool pants
6. rain parka
7. rain pants (ski pants are ok if they are in good condition and aren't tight fitting)

You adjust your temperature by adding or subtracting layers. When you get cold, you "add a layer" of clothes. When you start to get too hot, you "subtract a layer". This way you should be able to stay reasonably comfortable, even in changing weather and changing levels of exercise. Headgear:

1. synthetic or wool knit cap or Balaclava (a knit stocking cap which pulls down over your face and forms a mask - think bank robber)

Footwear:

1. lightweight "wick" socks
2. heavier synthetic or wool socks
   > you can also buy socks that combine "wicking" and insulation into one sock
3. hiking boots, waterproofed (your boots should be big enough that you can wiggle your toes with both pairs of socks on)
4. long gaiters

Handwear:

1. synthetic or wool inner gloves or mittens
2. waterproof outer glove shell

SNOW EQUIPMENT LIST
In snow, pack at least two changes of socks, and at least one spare pair of wool or synthetic pants and a spare wool/synthetic shirt or sweater. In snow country, absolutely no jeans or cotton clothing except as listed above. Tight belts should be replaced with suspenders.

Plan a winter menu that provides about 4,000 calories per person per day (check the calorie counts listed on the outside of the packages). Double-check your pack and make sure you have:

• dark glasses or goggles
• sun screen and chapstick
• an Ensolite pad or similar insulation from the ground (to sit on, sleep on, put a victim on)
• extra food (beyond your planned meals) equal to 1,000 calories

Add the following:

• one snow shovel for each two people (we have some)
• one backpacking stove for each two people

Feel free to post any links you feel are relevant.
but ww3sabiture will look and if they are bs they will be deleted and dont keep posting them
and look at the sites i have posted because i see sites that show the same thing and rember to add your name at the top and a disclamer asap


i said not to post thoes same 3 links so stop doing it!
http://www.m4040.com/Survival/Skills/Hunting%20and%20Snaring/Hunting%20and%20Snaring.htm Plans for spear, throwing stick and snares.
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/v-shrake/vpw.html How to make a spear and a bow.
http://www.primitiveways.com/ More primitive weapons howto and other primitive technology.
http://www.primitiveskillslinks.com/ Meta primitive skills link site.