Field LatrinesThis is a featured page

In a world of dead neighbors and relatives trying to consume your flesh I am pretty sure that taking a dump will probably be a last priority. But if you should happen to have the great fortune (and / or fortitude) to survive and find some place relatively safe you might want to know where you will take a dump.

On the go


urine bottle - easy for males, can be done for females with a little practice. go then dispose of. try to seal if possible to reduce odor.

Disposal bag - for solid waste. seal or tie off. dispose of. simple.

Cat hole latrine - if no bags or bottle are available you could dig a 1 ft deep hole do your business then cover it up.
not as fast as the others but can be used when not in a urban environment and no odor problems.

settled down for a bit

Bathrooms - If you should be lucky enough to have one with running water you will be good until the water runs out or gets shut off. You should identify if the bathrooms toilet is connected to a sewer or to a septic tank. If connected to a septic tank it should be maintained regularly to reduce the amount of times it needs to be pumped. In any case you should familiarize yourself with knowledge of plumbing to keep this amenity going.

porta john Chemical latrines - porta-johns, outhouses, crap shacks what ever you may call them might be the next best thing to a permanent fixture. They can easily be transported by hauling them in the back of a truck. They offer privacy (and possibly a place to hide although not the best choice...) and some have other options like handwashing devices and urinals. The downside is that they need much more maintainance than a bathroom. Most chemical toilets can hold the waste that 10 adults produce in a 40 hour work week. The "blue-water" in the bottom is generally called anotec but may be under different names. The chemical composition in the bottom most of the time is glutaraldehyde and quaternary ammonium compounds. Although hybrid compounds using nitrates and bacteria to do the job biologically do exist. When emptying the porta-john make sure to dump contents down wind and down stream. try to dump it in a place and manner so that it does not pool allowing pests such as mosquitoes and flies to breed and spread disease.
If cleaning the chemical latrine do not use abrasives or scouring pads. The latrine should be cleaned with sponges/ soft cloths and disinfectant. The part where waste is housed should also be disinfected and "aired out". a pressure washer might be a good idea. whenever dealing with waste use gloves, goggles, shower caps, etc anything to prevent contact with waste.




Burn out Latrine - Good for when the ground is frozen or otherwise to hard to dig a latrine. Also suitable when there is a high water table. when using a burn out latrine try to urinate at another suitable sight because more fuel is required to burn up the liquid than if it was just solid waste. a burn out latrine should be constructed from a metal barrel with handles welded to the sides. it should have a lid to make it pest proof and to contain odor. The fuel mixture should be 1 quart gasoline to 4 quarts diesel. If contents are not rendered dry and odorless it should be re-burned. any remaining ash should be buried at least 1 ft under the surface. It would be a good idea to use more than one barrel so one can be cleaned and the other utilized. should be burned daily. NOTE : burning latrines may attract enemies (and zeds) and is not prudent when fuel is low. DO NOT USE HIGH GRADE FUEL AS THEY ARE EXPLOSIVE!
burn latrine

Straddle Pit Latrine - if a burnout latrine is not feasible this is your next best option. a pit is dug 1ft wide and 2 1/2 ft down by 4 ft long. when you are done bury using excavated earth.

straddle pit latrine

Pit latrineDeep pit Latrine - The pit is dug 2 ft wide by 2 ft The depth of the pit depends on the estimated length of time the latrine will be used. As a guide, a depth of 1 foot is allowed for each week of estimated use, plus 1 foot of depth for dirt cover. Generally, it is not desirable to dig the pit more than 6-feet deep because of the danger of the walls caving in. Rocks or high ground water levels may also limit the depth of the pit. In some soils, supports of planking or other material may be necessary to prevent the walls from caving in. To prevent fly breeding and to reduce odors, the latrine box must be kept clean, the lids closed, and all cracks sealed. If a pest problem exists they may be treated with a residual pesticide.


Mound Latrine - Like the deep pit latrine only elevated good if there is a high water table or again hard ground.mound army latrine

Always remember to check before you go! a zed is a unpleasant surprise when nature is calling!

Happy Hunting!







Quickrace89
Quickrace89
Latest page update: made by Quickrace89 , Jan 10 2010, 4:06 AM EST (about this update About This Update Quickrace89 Moved from: Zombie Survival & Defense Wiki - Quickrace89

No content added or deleted.

- complete history)
Keyword tags: Health Sanitation
More Info: links to this page
Started By Thread Subject Replies Last Post
Hair-bear Depth 5 Jun 23 2010, 5:41 PM EDT by Madurjafro
Thread started: Jun 22 2010, 5:43 PM EDT  Watch
I was always under the impression that a depth of 8/9 " was sufficient for a latrine as this is the depth that the bacteria live at that dispose of the waste. I'm fairly sure i read it somewhere, or is that simply 'old hat' that has been subject to an update?

Just wondering as I'd like to try and keep a sustainable area going and the easiest way I can think of is to work with nature. Thanks :D!
Do you find this valuable?    
Keyword tags: Health Sanitation
Show Last Reply
Showing 1 of 1 threads for this page

Related Content

  (what's this?Related ContentThanks to keyword tags, links to related pages and threads are added to the bottom of your pages. Up to 15 links are shown, determined by matching tags and by how recently the content was updated; keeping the most current at the top. Share your feedback on Wetpaint Central.)