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| Firearms, Guns, Weapons... |
In the Pre-Zed World we have opportunities in many parts of World to own and keep them with minimal interferance from Authorities.
|Some places restrict and in turn refuse private holding of firearms, in others there are legal total bans of long and shortguns by Citizens of those States and Countries.|
| In this revamped section of the Firearms Accessories section, we are going to try to show those who may need the advise, both written and pictorial what gear can go with what gun you have, or may find in the Panic Days and post-Zed. Simply picking up *a* gun does nothing for you unless you have the ammunition and parts to make the entire gun function properly. |
Mismatched parts, improper ammunition, non-functioning "toys" hung on the gun, or arm simply discarded before you picked it up due to failure, many things can cause your "new" weapon not to work.
We will approach the world you find yourself in as "Post dayZed". You are a Survivor, and things that were formerly forbidden now are there to be found, picked up, taken from the deceased, or scrounged up on purposeful raids.
What you have on hand will no longer have the stigma of "Forbidden" or "Restricted", however what you have *now* is probably all you may get, manufacturing is at a standstill, markets gone, transportation shutdown.
Careful use of your equipment will help you and your fellow Survivors work harder, thrive in hard conditions, and help ensure that your gear is in as best of shape as you can keep it.
Remember, UnkleZed doesn't care how pretty your Main Battle Rifle is, nor does he care how ready you are to use it.
FlashlightsOne of the most common and practical modifications to any firearm, a good light not only illuminates dark settings, but can be a useful communications tool and potentially blind adversaries. There are two main choices in lights: Light Emitting Diodes (LED) and Incandescent.
LED utilizes a semi-conductor to create light in a number of colors both visible and invisible to the naked eye. They draw very little energy and are more dispersed then incandescent, often used in clusters instead of single LEDs. Some lights use a set of LEDs as "navigational lights", that is, giving enough illumination to reveal terrain, but not enough to kill night vision and give away your position. For the longest time, even clustered LEDs were too dull to be effective lights, but the years have seen developments like the brilliant CREE LED lights, compared to full power incandescents.
Incandescent lights work by running an electrical current through a wire filament, which creates a very bright reaction. This type of light tends to be more powerful than it's LED counterpart, which is often seen with multiple LEDs in the same light. However, the batteries of any powerful light will run much faster. A Surefire G2, with Xenon gas filled bulb, will last on two Cr123a batteries for roughly an hour continuously. Replacing the bulb with a LED assembly extends this to ten hours with a similar level of visible light output. LED also produces very little heat, where a powerful incandescent light can scorch skin if left on long enough.
Another difference, is that LEDs are essentially impossible to break. An incandescent bulb can shatter, exposing it's filament to air and causing it to burn out. Most reliable light manufactures shock-proof their bulb housings, but be sure to check. Always be aware: manufactures often create bulbs with an expected burn-out time (doing otherwise would be financially insane) so spares are necessary for even the most robust of designs. LEDs can also be found in a number of colors, while high-power incandescents do not work with tinted bulbs very well.
Most of a light's apparent power comes from it's reflector housing, the shiny dome set behind the light source. This is actually what focuses the light into a focused beam. One will notice that there are different designs of reflector. It is best to get one with a rough surface, that looks almost corrugated. This minute distortion is designed to eliminate the shadow of the beam itself (something common on, say, Maglites) and creates a clearer beam.
Generally, the powerful and focused beam of an incandescent light are better suited to combat, but a LED may become a preferred option in a post apocalyptic world, where one would want to get as much out of a battery as possible.
The main issue, aside from eye scorching power and utility, is how to get the light onto the weapon in question. Using a light in one hand and a pistol in the other is difficult (reloading?), doing the same on a rifle or shotgun is painful. Some opt to use a conventional hand held light and use a scope ring or similar adapter to attach it straight to a rail, and this is significantly less expensive then buying a dedicated light. However, be sure that your light can handle the recoil of the weapon, and that it had an accessible activation switch.
Most manufacturers produce pressure switches for this purpose. These useful accessories are a a small strip attached to the light by coiled elastic cord, which activates the light when pressure is applied, and turns off when pressure is released. This is especially useful in combat, when short bursts of light are the best option.
A number of weapon specific lights are made, many designed to go on a picatinny rail. The picture above combines a light with a vertical grip, and is a quite popular choice on rifles (see left). Some weapons have proprietary mounting systems for a specific light, such as the LAM units for the HK line of pistols, and the light/laser unit for the original SigPro. Other lights replace specific parts of a weapon, typically the handguard, the surefire shotgun foreends being a common example.
However, much like firearms themselves, any light is better than total darkness. Firearms instructor Clint Smith has been known to duct-tape lights to his double barrel shotguns to illustrate such a point.
Hypothetically, the only thing easier than laying a red dot over your target is playing a video game. Combat tends to be more complex than that, but lasers do help like nothing else when you do need them (so do red-dot sights, for that matter).
Visible lasers vary in color, from red to blue, red being the least powerful and blue being the most. A majority of red lasers do not project a visible beam in normal weather, but only a dot. Certain weapon sights are designed to pulsate, making the beam more visible to the human eye.
Green lasers, a step up from red, can cause permanent eye damage within a second, and the beam may show even in daylight. Purple and blue lasers are not used as weapon sights currently, as they are not only destructive, but bulky and costly.
Some sights project beams on the Infrared (IR) spectrum, to be used with night vision.
A correctly sighted in laser is a very fast option in close quarters, and may allow reasonably accurate fire even when proper aim is not possible. In terms of psychological effects, few things will get across the message of "back off" clearer then a laser dot, and the clear intention that a laser gets across may bolster the confidence of an otherwise frightened shooter.
However, laser sights are not without some drawbacks. They instantly give away your position, and are near useless at range.
For these reasons, they are more suited to concealed carry and close range self defense then a main weapon, where your location is plain and careful aim is difficult. A pistol, which is typically used in close range emergencies, may be the perfect weapon for such a sight.
Actively assisting sighting is only one possible use of a laser. It is very feasible to give orders with a laser sight, and likely the most precise option. Laser sights are also and visible at night, useful during covert attacks. By using a boresight, a laser stuck down the barrel of your weapon, you have a visible point to zero any sights on, without having to fire any rounds.
Another, slightly unconventional use for laser sights is to track shooting habits. You take the unloaded weapon, activate the laser, and dry fire as if you were shooting normally. Watching the laser, you can see if the firer jerks the trigger to the side, if they have developed a flinch, and a number of other shooting habits.
The cheapest, common lasers simply bolt to a rail on the firearm itself, trailing a pressure switch. Some are combined with a flashlight to save space on the weapon. Some of the smaller units work great on handguns, and if the holster does not fit the complete package, can be attached in seconds.
Like flashlights, a number of lasers replace parts of the weapon, notably for handguns. A popular product is the Crimson Trace lasergrip, shown above for the Beretta 92, which replaces the grips with a rubber grip that contains both a laser and integrated pressure switch. LaserMax also produces a sight that replaces the guide rod of a pistol, allowing it to use any grips and fit into standard holsters.
Muzzle CompensatorStandard on most rifles, a compensator diverts gas from the barrel to cut muzzle rise of the weapon during fire. They require a high pressure round and increase firing noise, making them less common in handguns.
They may sometimes be confused with a flash hider, which uses the same concept, but mainly disperses muzzle gases rather than directing them tyo cut recoil.
Most competition shooters use some form of compensator, hand loaded ammo feeding it with plenty of firing gas, and sound not as much of a concern. These hefty models are typically mounted onto a threaded barrel and locked into the frame. They use both massive vents and the weight of the part itself to help control recoil. Some are so effective the weapon actually recoils downward! With the exception of a limited or tactical shoot, a compensator and optical sight is considered essential to any competition gun.
A number of revolvers and autoloading pistols come with compensation as well, but in the form of vents cut into the weapon, rather then a an external extension. The picture of the left below is of a factory ported Glock, with vents cut into the barrel and slide. This keeps the weapon the same overall size while still providing muzzle compensation.
Compensation will not affect accuracy when properly done, and most comp barrels are available match grade. The key thing to remember when using a comp gun is to feed it with ammunition that burns slowly and generates more gas to feed more the comp. But, beware, that some ammo just shouldn't be loaded too hot. Modern cartridges like the 9mm Parabellum and .40 S&W run at very high operating pressures already.
While compensation is generally more useful on competition guns, there is nothing to say a personal carry piece cannot use some low profile barrel vents. However, if you work in a stack or otherwise tightly packed formation, a compensator / flash hider may only increase noise and vent gas into the faces of your squadmates. They are also very loud, a liability in the aforementioned self defense role. However, compensation may be a good idea for a heavy recoiling bear gun
Slings and LanyardsA sling is possibly the cheapest and most consistently functional accessory for most any long arm. They comfortably retain your weapon when you need your hands for something else, and give you an option aside from dropping the weapon when in a hurry. There are three main types of sling; two point, three point, and one point, in order of invention.
A two point sling is simply a length of leather, canvas or nylon that attaches to the front and rear of the firearm, typically the end of the foregrip and the bottom of the stock. You simply hang the weapon on your back or shoulder. There are a number of techniques used to also enhance stability of the firearm by applying tension to the sling.
A three point sling actually only has two points of contact on the firearm, but has a third on the sling itself, that creates a loop.
The loop goes over one shoulder and the below the other. Worn properly, the weapon hangs down over your chest diagonally, and also can be shifted to lay across your back. The advantage of such a setup is that you can drop the weapon without worry of damaging it.
However, the weapon is essentially tied to you, which is why you should buy a model with a quick release buckle. While they can't be swung around as easily as the three or two point, they generally have a good degree of placement across the front and side (whichever side the "bottom" of the sling is located) of the torso.Three point slings can quite easily be used as two points. You simply bypass the third point and pull the loop even with the body of the sling.
The last type of sling is the one-point, gaining in popularity for close quarter operations. This sling is simply attached to the rear sling mount of the weapon, and may either loop over one shoulder, or clip directly onto web gear. With a one-point sling, the weapon hangs straight down. A one point has similar advantages to the three point, but tends to be less stable during movement. A majority come with quick release buckles, and are generally made of bungee.
While a three or one point sling may seem the most "badass" options, they hang the weapon fairly low, meaning a longer arm may get in the way and even bump into the ground. This is a reason they tend to be most popular for close quarter operations, where it isn't expected that there will be foilage or uneven terrain to bump into equipment. However, they do have the significant advantage of only requiring the shooter to release their grip on the weapon, instead of throwing the weapon across something as with a two-point sling.
Your shooting style and weapon type effects the type of sling that works the best, and it is mostly up to preference. Even a home made sling is better then nothing, but with the quality and generally inexpensive choice out there, it shouldn't be an issue finding the right kind for you. Perfectly servicable canvas slings can be had for under ten USD.
A pistol lanyard is an elastic coil that anchors your sidearm to your person, but still allows a degree of free movement, including holstering, firing and reloading. Unlike a sling, it doesn't hold the weapon in retention, meaning a lanyard is useless without a good holster.
First used by cavalry and mounted police, lanyards have seen a resurgence in military and police usage recently, and several quality brands make them.
One end hooks onto the user's belt, and the other attaches to a lanyard hook in the base of the pistol. Lanyard hooks used to either be the external type or not on the pistol at all, but most manufacturers now build pistols with a inset lanyard hook. Typically, the lanyard attaches with a gutted piece of 550 paracord.
This article has suggested several times that any good sling or lanyard requires a quick release buckle. The last thing you want to happen is to be killed because your weapon snagged on something, drowned you, or got snagged by a zombie. A QD buckle is inexpensive and useful.
Weapon support, Bi-Pods and Tri-pods (original content by timberrattler)
Bi-pods are a real handy accessory to have on anything from a bolt-action hunting rifle to a tactical assault rifle. My favorite brand of bi-pod is Harris but you be your own judge as far as what will work best for you. Harris bi-pods are light and there are lots of models to choose from. They fold forward and are lightweight and well built. Some models even swivel.
Tri-pods are bi-pods big cousins. While its a stretch to add one to your BOB they would be feasible options to have at your BOL or base. They make it easier for you to kneel or even stand and have a steady, portable rest for your rifle. Here are some examples of tri-pods set up at different heights.
This is the most likely option for a shooting aid you can pack in your BOB. They are very lightweight and telescope down to a reasonable size that makes for easy storage. I use these quite often and can be had for as little as twenty dollars. They are a practical shooting aid and some of the sturdier models can double as a walking stick.
One of my favorite personalities on the net, Varminter Al has a page on how to make your own shooting sticks. http://varmintal.com/abifu.htm Here is a link to his site and instructions to build your own. Its a simple project and an inexpensive option for a portable shooting aid.
Here is a picture of a commercially produced set of shooting sticks.
One of the constant issues with revolvers was their reload speed. There are numerous products out there to get the wheel gun shooting again after boom turns into click. Accessories to speed up the process are almost exclusively designed for swing out revolvers, though they do work on some break-open models.
The first and most common accessory is the speedloader. It is simply a drum that holds the cartridges so that they all drop into the cylinders in a single motion. The most common kind is HKS, to the left, which uses a knob on the rear to release the rounds. It is the author's opinion that these are inferior to the Safariland speedloaders, which are available in a number of sizes and only require a slight push to eject the rounds, rather than immobilizing the cylinder and twisting a knob, but it is ultimately up to shooter preference. Either style must be ordered specifically for the model of revolver, as there are differences in cylinder spacing and frame clearance.
An even faster method is the moon clip, used since WW1. They hold the rounds, like a speedloader, but the entire clip goes into the cylinder, instead of being tossed away like a speedloader. They are also ejected as one piece. This is useful for revolvers firing rimless cartridges, as without the clips, there would be nothing for the extractor rod to push against to eject the empty cartridges. These are almost considered mandatory for most competition shooting with revolvers.
A good option for those who concealed carry is the speed strip, a flexible band that holds five or six rounds in a flat, low profile package. To use one, you hook two rounds into the cylinder, peel the strip, and repeat until the gun is loaded. It is significantly faster than loose rounds and fairly concealable. Not as fast as a speedloader, but very handy. They're a great companion to a snubbie revolver.
Those are the accessories you'll commonly find. The market is always changing, so check back on this page as products are updated. If you find something unique, don't be afraid to add it in here.
The Rules - What you should know before reading these pages and handling weapons.
Firearms - A basic guide to different types of firearms.
Ammunition - An overview of types of ammo and reloading.
Weapons reviews - A user-created database of reviews for various zombie-slaying implements.
Handguns, Rifles, Shotguns - A guide to using and maintaining firearms you are likely to come across.
Latest page update: made by John_234
, Dec 4 2010, 8:06 PM EST
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|Started By||Thread Subject||Replies||Last Post|
|Deadsilence1||in the UK?||7||May 21 2012, 10:44 AM EDT by FrankLeeDeRainged|
Thread started: Dec 14 2010, 7:00 AM EST Watch
can u guys help me?
1)would a bivvi be ok in a Z-Day world e.g in a dense forest in the middle of nowhere?
2)Weapons--BIG hassle. im 13 in uk--no gun shops( i dont think) most stuff is age restricted.
3)just a tip- if u r under 18 join a cadet force!(ACF/Marine cadets)the skills are valuable!
4)BOLs are a bit of a thin choice. mine is the nothe fort in weymouth as it is less than 500m away from my house and has a nuclear bunker in case our government decide to nuke us (god forbid) google earth it, it is quite good.
1 out of 3 found this valuable. Do you?
|DropDeadDave||Suppressors (page: 1 2 3 4)||71||Apr 15 2011, 3:37 PM EDT by tvercetti1|
Thread started: Mar 2 2011, 10:41 AM EST Watch
I can't find a section on suppresors. Seems to me that there should be section on suppressors in accessories given that the sound of gunfire is is very likely to attract the attention of any zombies nearby.
Now I know that it is impossible to completely silence a firearm but you can make them quiet enough so that the sound of the action of the gun is as loud or louder than the muzzle report. In my opinion this should be the #1 consideration in your choice of firearm for the inevitible zombie apocalypse. That said I'd like to share some of my thoughts on suppressing a firearm as much as possible and the pro's and cons of the various different options available for a "silent" firearm.
Firstly I'd like to point out that I am of the humble opinion that the best choice for a primary firearm for zombie defense is a semi-auto rifle or carbine. Handguns not accurate enough over long range, shotguns are too noisy and shortrange, bolt/lever action rifles do have some advantages but the time taken to load the next round could ultimately cost your life.
There are two factors that create most of noise when firing a gun; 1. The actual muzzle blast 2. the Supersonic crack over the bullet as it breaks the sound barrier.
To eliminate the ballistic crack is easy - choose a round that is subsonic like
the .45 ACP .380 ACP or the .300 whisper or 300 blackout.( there are many more that are subsom=nic I just don't know all of them ideally look for a round that travels at 1050ft/s or slower)
You can get subsonic rounds in a lot of other calibers but you would usually have to pay more for the ammo. Also the dimunitive .22lr is such a smaller round that the ballistic crack would be relatively quiet anyway. The .45 is probably one of the most common subsonic rounds (always a good idea to choose a weapon that has a caliber where it will be easy to find more ammo for) has a lot of stopping power but rangei s< 200 yards.
|FFMajorEMT||Hearing protection?||13||Apr 15 2011, 3:10 PM EDT by chitoryu12|
Thread started: Apr 14 2011, 10:38 AM EDT Watch
While shooting on my family's private property, my gf was standing about 7 feet behind me. We both wore our hearing protection but after about 30 rounds she took her ear plugs out. She said that it wasn't that loud. So I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to have her shoot my 9mm without hearing protection. I loaded one round in the magazine and she fires it off. She almost drops the gun because it was so loud.
Now the point to my thread.
In a zombie apocalypse, your senses are going to be important tools for survival. So if you cannot fire a 9mm Handgun without hearing protection, how are you supposed to hear if a zed is on your ass?
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