How To Build A Budget "Sniper" Rifle Part 4 - Initial Accuracy TestThis is a featured page

How  To Build A Budget "Sniper" Rifle Part 4 - Initial Accuracy  Test - Zombie Survival & Defense WikiACCURACY TEST
Now that we've got our 60 year old but brand spanking new rifle and an assortment of ammunition, an "Initial Accuracy Test" is required to find out where the rifle stands in terms of accuracy in it's factory setting. This would be our "control" sample if we were performing an experiment for a science project - something with which to compare our results to at the end of the build.

So, what do I need to do to have a successful test?
  • A fair weather day with no precipitation and no or mild winds
  • A safe shooting location (firing range is best)
  • Mosin-Nagant rifle, cleaned and lubricated
  • Assortment of ammunition, caliber 7.62x54R
  • Eye and ear protection (for yourself and all of your guests)*
  • Sturdy target stand at 50-100 yards
  • 10-20 printed targets
  • Some way to stick your targets to your target stand (staple gun, thumb tacks or tape)
  • Ink pen or pencil
  • Ruler, standard/metric
  • Sturdy bench, with a rest for the rifle
  • Basic toolbox with Mosin-Nagant takedown tool (looks like a weird oversized round key)
  • 1 bottle of Windex or soapy water (for flushing the barrel after shooting)
*Ear protection is absolutely essential when shooting the Mosin-Nagant rifles, especially the carbine models. It is extremely loud. You will permanently damage your hearing without protection. I have a persistent and non-stop ringing in my ears from shooting without using proper hearing protection, and trust me, you don't want this too!

How To Build A Budget "Sniper" Rifle Part 4 - Initial  Accuracy Test - Zombie Survival & Defense WikiCOMMENCE FIRE!
The first thing you want to do is grab a target and write down what ammunition is going to be used on it - *if it's military surplus, make sure to write down what the package looks like, any identifying markers on the bullet (tip color, casing color, stamp on bottom) and the name of the shop you purchased the ammo at so that you will remember what kind of ammunition was used for future reference. If you bought it online, you'll likely know what country the ammo was manufactured in and the bullet weight as well - write that down too! If it's commercial ammunition, staple the box to the target after shooting.

When it is safe (following range rules) set your target up at 50 yards, 75 yards or 100 yards, depending on your shooting skill and eyesight. Personally, I prefer to use 75 yards as it's far enough to be challenging but close enough to see a standard target clearly. It's easiest to use one of those three ranges so that you can make an easy comparison to when the scope is zeroed later on down the road.

Load up 5 rounds of ammunition (matched to what is written on the target) and using the bench rest, fire the five rounds into the target using a correct 6 o'clock hold - pictured at right.

Remember, squeeze the trigger slowly in a uniform motion with the tip of your finger (don't jerk the trigger) and don't flinch, the rifle is not going to hurt you. Focus on the front sight, not the target.

After you've fired your the five rounds into the target, wait until you can safely retrieve your target and do so. Replace with new target (*with next ammunition you're going to test labeled on the target). When you get back to your bench, take your pen and draw an X through the furthest bullet from the group, then measure the distance between the two furthest shots. Write down the measurement underneath the ammunition label you wrote before - should only be a couple of inches across if the ammo and gun agree with each other and the shooter does their part.

Repeat process until you've obtained results for each type of ammunition you brought along. If you were unsatisfied with any group or felt that you did not do the best that you could, start a fresh target but keep the original as well.

ACCURACY ANALYSIS

Compare your target sheets!

It is likely that you will find some variation in the accuracy of the chosen cartridges, some may be radically more accurate than others. They might all shoot nearly identical groups too. Naturally, which ever cartridge is the most cost effective and accurate would be the one to go with, as budget is always a major concern. If the most expensive cartridge is the most accurate (which is likely), go with the second most accurate - but if the most accurate is still within a reasonable price, purchase those for the remainder of your tests! You will have to make that decision for yourself.

You may find that your bullets did not land in the "Bull's Eye" of the target, but that's not what we're concerned with right now. We're interested in the size of the group (how close the bullet holes are together) as we will be able to move that group around and onto target easily once a scope has been installed on the rifle.

Let's say that brand "XYZ" came in first with consistent 3 inch groups, and is $10 per box. Brand "ABC" came in second place, with 5 inch groups and is $5 per box. Brand "CRUD" came in third with 5 inch groups at 50 yards (and rarely hit paper at 100) but is only $3 per box. If you make tons of money, go with brand "XYZ" but if you're on a budget, brand "ABC" would be the one to go with. You're giving up a little bit of accuracy but you're saving a bit of money. Right?


AFTER THE FIRING IS DONE

Immediately after you're completely done shooting for the day, it is very beneficial to spray some Windex or hot water, followed by CLP (or other gun oil) down the barrel from the chamber end until it flows steadily out the muzzle while the barrel is still very warm. This procedure will help remove a lot of the corrosive salts and carbon out of the barrel and therefore help make your detailed cleaning job much more thorough. Rifles tend to shoot more accurately when they're clean, so keep your weapons clean.


To Part 5 - Rifle Stock Options

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