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How to maintain your firearms!
In retrospect, this article should have been named "HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR RIFLE WHILE ON THE RUN" as this is not a thorough cleaning tutorial, but a real quick "make sure the gun is lubed" guide. Firearms maintenance is vital to the operation and reliability of your "zombie-gun" and or sporting equipment. There are easy steps to keep that firearm working properly. This is not written to be an all inclusive guide to firearms maintenance but it will definitely point you in the right direction.
Only clean your firearms in a zombie-free environment, that is secured by another armed individual if possible. Never strip more than one of your firearms at the time and make sure that where you are cleaning is completely secured and is somewhere you will not lose any parts of the gun. If all of your guns are disassembled on the ground and a zombie were to burst in, hopefully you'd have a knife on you else you're fodder. On the topic of losing parts, my grandfather served in WWII and he said that it was surprising how quickly you could lose a major component of your equipment if you were not being very careful not to lose anything.
BEFORE YOU DO EVEN THINK ABOUT PICKING UP A FIREARM, LEARN THE NRA APPROVED GUN SAFETY RULES AND ADHERE TO THEM AT ALL TIMES. ZOMBIES ARE TERRIFYING BUT A MORON WITH A FIREARM IS SCARY AND UNPREDICTABLE. BE SAFE, KNOW THE RULES AND FOLLOW THEM.
First and foremost, purchase a cleaning kit for your selected firearm. There are several major companies that cater to firearms enthusiasts, namingly "Hoppe's," "Birchwood-Casey," "Break-free" and others. Purchase an appropriate kit for the caliber and type (pistol, rifle or shotgun). The kit should include a cleaning rod with handle, jags for cleaning sheets, a nylon brush (like a toothbrush) and a bore brush, which is round and threaded to be placed on the cleaning rod.
Second, choose a multi-purpose firearm oil such as Break-free CLP, Rem-oil, Outer's oil. I prefer to use aerosol spray types as application is much easier, and you do not have to "reach" as far with them. Use this liberally, and let the metal absorb some of the oil. Make sure to remove any excess as it can congeal over time, and will actually inhibit the firearms proper functioning
You will be in need of alot of scrap cloth and/or paper towels. Just a warning, as you'll soon find out.
MAKE SURE YOUR RIFLE IS NOT LOADED. KEEP BARREL POINTED IN SAFE DIRECTION.
I have this ordered into one word steps:
STRIP - OIL - BORE - ACTION - BORE2 - REASSEMBLE - OIL
Now by no means am I discrediting anyone else's methods of cleaning, but I will tell you how I clean a rifle. First and foremost, I bring the firearm into what is known as "Field Stripped" condition, which for most rifles is when the bolt is removed from the receiver, and the barreled action is removed from the stock. This condition depends on the rifle and your time; If you're on the go and zombies abound, you will not want to remove the barreled action from the stock as this is a mostly unnecessary step to preserve the finish on a wood stock.
I begin by lightly coating all surfaces of the rifle and inside of the receiver with whatever general purpose gun oil I have at hand (for me, CLP almost all the way). I will leave this to soak into the metal and protect it while I'm using the bore cleaner. Next I assemble the cleaning rod and put a sheet runner jag on the cleaning rod, and run a bore solvent soaked (Kleenbore is my personal favorite) through the barrel from the breech end of the rifle, sheet exiting like the bullets, out of the muzzle. If the rifle is particularly dirty (like the old surplus rifles) I will run several wet sheets. Do not immediately run a dry sheet through the bore as the solvent takes some time to do its job and remove any copper/lead fouling from the barrel.
I then wipe as much of the excess oil off of the barrel and receiver, to where there is only the lightest coat of oil left on the firearm. I begin to wipe with a paper towel the receiver where the bolt lays and magazine well (action), removing any carbon from the action of the gun. I like to wipe this until the area is both visibly and feels clean. After any and all carbon is removed, I will spray a light coat into the action again, and begin cleaning the bolt. The bolt (depending upon rifle) tends to not get very dirty on the inside and therefore rarely needs to be taken apart unless you are shooting corrosive ammunition. For this article, lets say you are not shooting corrosive ammo, as the routine changes just a little bit if you are. I like to apply a very small amount of CLP to the bolt, wiping off the entirely and especially any extractor/firing pin area, and putting a light coat back on. Reinsert the bolt and cycle several times, mostly to ensure that the excess oil left on the action and bolt is worked into the high stress regions requiring the oil. Wipe off the excess lightly, and remove the bolt again, setting it onto a clean surface.
Remember the bore of the rifle? Its still got the solvent in it, and by now has been sitting for a few minutes (up to ten if you work slowly) and has had ample time to do its magic. Again, if you're shooting an old surplus gun or one particularly filthy, you may need more cleaning on the bore. I like to run another wet sheet after this time, followed by dry sheets until they come out with no fluid on them.
Replace bolt, reload, put safety on and you're good to go. Lightly coat all surfaces with oil and remove excess oil.
The videos below are excellent visual demonstrations for cleaning a very common handgun design and is an excellent and very correct way to maintain a handgun. Remember that you're most vulnerable while your weapons are disassembled, so make sure to only disassemble one firearm at a time when you're doing combat with the undead.
Only clean your firearms in a zombie-free environment, that is secured by another armed individual if possible. Never strip more than one of your firearms at the time and make sure that where you are cleaning is completely secured and is somewhere you will not lose any parts of the gun. If all of your guns are disassembled on the ground and a zombie were to burst in, hopefully you'd have a knife on you else you're fodder. On the topic of losing parts, my grandfather served in WWII and he said that it was surprising how quickly you could lose a major component of your equipment if you were not being very careful not to lose anything.
BEFORE YOU DO EVEN THINK ABOUT PICKING UP A FIREARM, LEARN THE NRA APPROVED GUN SAFETY RULES AND ADHERE TO THEM AT ALL TIMES. ZOMBIES ARE TERRIFYING BUT A MORON WITH A FIREARM IS SCARY AND UNPREDICTABLE. BE SAFE, KNOW THE RULES AND FOLLOW THEM.
First and foremost, purchase a cleaning kit for your selected firearm. There are several major companies that cater to firearms enthusiasts, namingly "Hoppe's," "Birchwood-Casey," "Break-free" and others. Purchase an appropriate kit for the caliber and type (pistol, rifle or shotgun). The kit should include a cleaning rod with handle, jags for cleaning sheets, a nylon brush (like a toothbrush) and a bore brush, which is round and threaded to be placed on the cleaning rod.
Second, choose a multi-purpose firearm oil such as Break-free CLP, Rem-oil, Outer's oil. I prefer to use aerosol spray types as application is much easier, and you do not have to "reach" as far with them. Use this liberally, and let the metal absorb some of the oil. Make sure to remove any excess as it can congeal over time, and will actually inhibit the firearms proper functioning
You will be in need of alot of scrap cloth and/or paper towels. Just a warning, as you'll soon find out.
MAKE SURE YOUR RIFLE IS NOT LOADED. KEEP BARREL POINTED IN SAFE DIRECTION.
I have this ordered into one word steps:
STRIP - OIL - BORE - ACTION - BORE2 - REASSEMBLE - OIL
Now by no means am I discrediting anyone else's methods of cleaning, but I will tell you how I clean a rifle. First and foremost, I bring the firearm into what is known as "Field Stripped" condition, which for most rifles is when the bolt is removed from the receiver, and the barreled action is removed from the stock. This condition depends on the rifle and your time; If you're on the go and zombies abound, you will not want to remove the barreled action from the stock as this is a mostly unnecessary step to preserve the finish on a wood stock.
I begin by lightly coating all surfaces of the rifle and inside of the receiver with whatever general purpose gun oil I have at hand (for me, CLP almost all the way). I will leave this to soak into the metal and protect it while I'm using the bore cleaner. Next I assemble the cleaning rod and put a sheet runner jag on the cleaning rod, and run a bore solvent soaked (Kleenbore is my personal favorite) through the barrel from the breech end of the rifle, sheet exiting like the bullets, out of the muzzle. If the rifle is particularly dirty (like the old surplus rifles) I will run several wet sheets. Do not immediately run a dry sheet through the bore as the solvent takes some time to do its job and remove any copper/lead fouling from the barrel.
I then wipe as much of the excess oil off of the barrel and receiver, to where there is only the lightest coat of oil left on the firearm. I begin to wipe with a paper towel the receiver where the bolt lays and magazine well (action), removing any carbon from the action of the gun. I like to wipe this until the area is both visibly and feels clean. After any and all carbon is removed, I will spray a light coat into the action again, and begin cleaning the bolt. The bolt (depending upon rifle) tends to not get very dirty on the inside and therefore rarely needs to be taken apart unless you are shooting corrosive ammunition. For this article, lets say you are not shooting corrosive ammo, as the routine changes just a little bit if you are. I like to apply a very small amount of CLP to the bolt, wiping off the entirely and especially any extractor/firing pin area, and putting a light coat back on. Reinsert the bolt and cycle several times, mostly to ensure that the excess oil left on the action and bolt is worked into the high stress regions requiring the oil. Wipe off the excess lightly, and remove the bolt again, setting it onto a clean surface.
Remember the bore of the rifle? Its still got the solvent in it, and by now has been sitting for a few minutes (up to ten if you work slowly) and has had ample time to do its magic. Again, if you're shooting an old surplus gun or one particularly filthy, you may need more cleaning on the bore. I like to run another wet sheet after this time, followed by dry sheets until they come out with no fluid on them.
Replace bolt, reload, put safety on and you're good to go. Lightly coat all surfaces with oil and remove excess oil.
The videos below are excellent visual demonstrations for cleaning a very common handgun design and is an excellent and very correct way to maintain a handgun. Remember that you're most vulnerable while your weapons are disassembled, so make sure to only disassemble one firearm at a time when you're doing combat with the undead.
LJ126 |
Latest page update: made by LJ126
, Nov 28 2009, 1:31 AM EST
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Keyword tags:
clean
firearm
Gun
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ArielT | Cleaning Guns w/o Gun Oil | 16 | Mar 9 2010, 2:44 AM EST by theghostnthedarkness | ||
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| SpcDucky | WD-40 on a weapon? | 17 | Oct 28 2009, 1:26 AM EDT by Littlejon126 | ||
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| alicestar | heavy coating the weapon first. | 8 | Oct 6 2009, 11:14 PM EDT by MattHack | ||
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Thread started: Jun 19 2008, 6:26 AM EDT
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I have no real problem with your method because at least you clean your firearms but I disagree with the first coat of oil. any surface that is (or can be) exposed to the gases from discharge should be cleaned with solvent before a coat of oil is applied. the reason for this is that steel as with all metals is porous, so if you add oil first you give the corrosive carbon A carrying agent into those pores. this weakens the metal over time and will cause it to rust. just wash it like your damn car (metaphorically) soap it, dry it, and then apply the wax!
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