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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
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| Nov 5 2009, 7:37 PM EST | WoodlandGhillie | 409 words added, 1 word deleted |
| Aug 24 2009, 11:51 PM EDT | lordreven6 | 14 words added |
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Disclaimer:
Certain information contained on this page deals with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site and the contributors do not advocate the breaking of any law. This is for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this page is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site. We do not promote or advocate the construction or implimentation of any of the devises or techniques described herein. If you do so, all blame rests upon yourself, and no attempt may be made to persecute or otherwise place blame upon the ZSDW, as a group. Any member specifically advocating the construction or implimentation of any of the devices or techniques described herein will be dealt with harshly.
If you are a federal agent or officer of the law, then read no further. I know you have to do this, so just close the page. You tend to make anything incriminating.
End of Disclaimer.
This is a list of hand-held explosives/make-shift weaponry that could be created/found/stolen.
Credit-Grabbing Note: Anywhere with a big D marking it has either been revamped or added by Drewblet.
Molotov Cocktail: Great for removing hordes of zombies surrounding a building, as long as you do not set the building on fire. Not very reliable, it works better as a deterrent for human threats or to start a burn pile of dead bodies. To construct one, at least two combustible liquids (gasoline and kerosene are commonly used) are poured into a glass bottle and a fuse is added. The bottle is then sealed with wax or paraffin. When deployed, the fuse is lit and the bottle hurled at the intended victim/area, shattering on impact and setting most things in the area on fire. For maximum effect, add sugar to the oil. 
(D):And the fuse is usually a rag soaked in the contents of the bottle. You tie a knot in the end and shove it though the bottle's neck. Only fill the bottle up about 1/4 of the way! Counter intuitive as it may seem, it's actually a much move effective method of dealing with a Molotov. At most, fill half way.
Note: The use of molotovs should be evaluated carefully, as you may be spending precious fuel (or worse, booze) to minimal effect.
Also, never make these.
The Molotov Cocktail, Improved; From StrykerPez:
Now the many dangers here: high chance of spilling gas, gas fumes, premature ignition, etc. Here's a way to do it a little safer... and even time it. Use a Sobe bottle (glass bottle, metal threaded lid) or other re-seal able glass bottle. Fill it with gasoline (and if you want a better effect, throw chunks of Styrofoam in the bottle. It makes the gas stickier), and then seal it up. Then duct tape a road flare to the side of the bottle. Now it is storable, spill proof, and can be lit and thrown in any condition (rain, wind, etc). Also, depending how you tape the flare, you can lay the bottle on its side, so when the flare burns down, it will melt the glass and ignite the fuel. Timed incendiary.
This product has a near indefinite shelf life, even old gas is still flammable.
(D):
Back to Drewblet. Stryker's additon reminded me of two more ways to do this.
In the first, you soak a tampon in whatever is inside of the bottle, and tape it to the side. This way, the bottle is closed, and you have a nice, flaming, thing to ignite it. When ready, you simply ignite the tampon, and throw the bottle.
The Flameless Molotov; From Drewblet:
In the first, you soak a tampon in whatever is inside of the bottle, and tape it to the side. This way, the bottle is closed, and you have a nice, flaming, thing to ignite it. When ready, you simply ignite the tampon, and throw the bottle.
The Flameless Molotov; From Drewblet:
This is simple, but it works.
Take an empty wine bottle with a concave bottom, and fill it up with 30% sulphuric acid, 20% motor oil, and 50% gasoline. Now close up the top, and make sure that the bottle is thoroughly cleaned. In particular the concave bottom.
Take an empty wine bottle with a concave bottom, and fill it up with 30% sulphuric acid, 20% motor oil, and 50% gasoline. Now close up the top, and make sure that the bottle is thoroughly cleaned. In particular the concave bottom.
Now fill the bottom up with potassium chlorate. Cut out a cardboard circle to match the bottom of the bottle, and tape that on there. Now take a plastic baggie and cover the bottom with it. Wrap a rubber band around the bag, and you're all set.
When thrown, the glass will break, causing the acid and the potassium to mix violently, igniting the gas and oil.
Napalm: From Zombiebane224
No not Gasoline and styrofoam actual gelled Gas
DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES I REPEAT DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES
I prefer diesel or kerosene and any paint thinner or stipper that is mostly napthaor "white gas" for camp stoves (burns hotter cleaner and brighter than gas) and you add crushed up UTZ brand mothballs as they are 97% napthalene and dissolve readily in gas add slowly while stirring constantly till it gells
I'm working out if you can use this as a base to become Greek Fire with an even more vicious burn.
BE SAFE
naphthenic acid and palmitic acid as the first napalm was made from a mixture of naphthenic acid with aluminium and magnesium salts of palmitic acid.
which is preferred if you have access to a chemistry lab
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(D):
Drewblet recommends the following procedure: Take a threaded pipe with one cap on it, and place a Ziplock or sanwich bag inside (depending on the size of the pipe), lining the inside of the pipe with it. This prevents fricton with the side of the pipe, reducing the chances of an accidental discharge. Now you put the black powder or whatever you chose in, stick the fuse into the explosive, lightly(!) twist the bag around the fuse, run a toothbursh along the exposed threads, to make sure that there's no explosive that's been caught in there, and put the other cap on, making sure that the fuse is sticking out.
The amount of shrapnel may be increased by wrapping the bomb in metal wire.
I only recommend that you do this so that you don't kill yourself if you do. I still don't think that you should do this, at all.
Additional shrapnel may be added to the explosive mixture (such as ball bearings, marbles, nails, etc) to produce a greater kill radius.
PIPE BOMBS ARE VERY DANGEROUS. The fragments of metal from the pipe as well as the explosion of gunpowder is more than enough to kill you if you do not assemble it properly. The explosive can be accidentally ignited by static electricity discharge or by friction from screwing on the end caps, among other factors.
The amount of shrapnel may be increased by wrapping the bomb in metal wire.
I only recommend that you do this so that you don't kill yourself if you do. I still don't think that you should do this, at all.
Additional shrapnel may be added to the explosive mixture (such as ball bearings, marbles, nails, etc) to produce a greater kill radius.
PIPE BOMBS ARE VERY DANGEROUS. The fragments of metal from the pipe as well as the explosion of gunpowder is more than enough to kill you if you do not assemble it properly. The explosive can be accidentally ignited by static electricity discharge or by friction from screwing on the end caps, among other factors.
Otherkind of pipe bomb doesent require any explosive material, just preasure.
first, get a pipe, look from hardware stores, ask a pipe that can be sealed tight, ask about foot tall pipe, remember
it must be big enough for a baby food jar, now hopefully you got the pipe now and you can seal it tight, close the other end and
put some small rocks there, 2 or 3, then pour some paking soda in there, and a baby food jar with a vinegar in it (ofcourse that is sealed too) place
it on the top of the rocks, now if you want, add something sharp in there but remember that increases danger you are in using that.
Close the pipe TIGHTLY!!!! and be CAREFUL!!! if the jar breaks, it will explode
when you hit it to ground (or throw it in front of the horde) the jar will break, vinegar spill on paking soda, creating preasure, will plow up and throw the projectiles on your target.
if you really want to test this, you must know how to run really fast, this makes noise.
thank you for reading
WoodlandGhillies Edit to Pipe Bomb: Do not put a plastic/ziploc in PVC! This causes a lot of static. I recently did an experiment with a leyden jar, and my charger was a ziploc and PVC. If you have to, use some tissues or something. the ziplocs can be better used for food storage.
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(D):You can also just set it up without a timer. That is, hooked up to a detonator switch.
Do not make this; this is exclusively for informational purposes.
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Flash Powder: This would be used to make your own flash grenades. No bang -- just flash.
Here:
4 parts potassium Perchlorate
1 part aluminum powder
1 part sulfur or 7 parts potassium Perchlorate 5 parts aluminum powder
This is fairly harmless, so it may be constructed, but extreme caution must be exercised at all times in the handling of this or any other combustible substance.
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The problem with grenades is that casualties are typically caused by shrapnel embedded in vital organs that zombies do not need. The shrapnel would have to find its way into the brain case and strike a vital portion of the brain to be effective, an unlikely situation. Its most effective use would be dealing with concentrated human threats and temporarily disabling herds of zombies for a speedy escape.
To use the grenade, ensure that the handle is firmly pressed down. Grasp the grenade in your throwing hand and firmly tug the ring to pull out the pin. With the handle still held down, throw the grenade. It's preferrable to throw it in a high arc at a 45 degree angle to ensure it reaches maximum distance. Get behind thick cover and stay low to the ground with your ears covered if you lack earplugs. If unable to find cover, drop prone and cover your head.
Do NOT cook the grenade by releasing the handle and letting the fuse burn down. This is extraordinarily dangerous, and grenades do not all have the same fuse length, even grenades of the same type. It's more likely the grenade will detonate in your hand or in midair.
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Paper RGD-5 and similar designs
How to part 1
How to part 2
How to part 3
Part 4 is a fire test with black powder, although the explosion wasn't too large cause of wet powder.
This is essentially a grenade, spoon and all, made from a G2 ball point pen, paper mache, a golf ball, scrap metal, and whatever payload you used.
The detonator is a G2 pen with the top sealed. (just the top, not the pocket clip hole)
The spoon is scrap metal, and goes into the hole that the pocket clip was attached to.
The detonator shown in the video has a nail held inside the detonator housing by the "spoon".
You can place a cap with a detonator charge and delay roughly in the center of the grenade body, and surround that with the payload.
The detonator is also screwed into the housing by the lower thread half of the pen. (you glue/mache it in to the body)
This is a novelty item more then anything else, but it may be useful with the right payload.
Keep in mind however, that you seal the detonator area from the payload, so the initial charge won't set off the grenade before the delay.
However, I wouldn't carry it by the spoon as readily as I would with a actual grenade...
In an outbreak, you'd skip the aesthetic steps (smoothing the body, making realistic proportions, painting maybe)), and stock up on these in your fortress,
due to the time it takes to dry the mache, and the assembly needed for the detonator.
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(D):
The Four Winds Shotgun: This is basically a shotgun made out of two metal pvc pipes. Download instructions HERE. Modifications include wrapping seveal layers of duct tape on the inner pipe, in order to make a handle, or attatching some sort of cushioned brace to the rear of the outter tube, in order to fashion a stock. If one doesn't do this, it would probably make them throw up, but only after burning their hands.
To fire, one grasps hold of the inner pipe, braces the rear against their stomach, and shoves the inner pipe back into the outer pipe as fast as they can.
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Shotgun mousetrap:
I saw this trap a long time ago, when I was a kid in fact. Get a mousetrap, drill a hole the same diameter as the round you're using (shotgun shell preferably) and attach a nail to the moving part. String and cock**** the trap AFTER the wire has been attached to the trigger, then load the shell. This can be a useful trap against human targets, or even just alert you if something is coming. You can also use this as a tripwire detonator for a blasting cap, replacing the round with a strip cap (those little red or orange caps for cap guns and such) or a primer from a round of ammo.
(D):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Drewblet reccomends that, rather than a nail on the trap itself, you scotch-tape a plastic BB into the primer-igniting-hit-by-hammer spot. That way, there's no danger of of the shell being punctured, and the striker doesn't have to be particularly precise.
The Boom Stick: The boom stick is a broken broom handle, with a nail stuck to the end of it with the point facing outwards. You then place a spring over the nail so that if one compresses the spring the point of the nail is extended beyond the spring. Then shotgun shells can be loaded onto the spring, so that if used like a spear, the spring will compress and the nail will strike the primer of the shotgun shell.
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Propane Bomb: A propane tank is nothing to be trifled with as it becomes a giant grenade once it explodes, sending its tank in all directions as shrapnel. Now, propane tanks cannot be blown up by piercing the tank with a bullet to create an explosion. By adding a lit flare to the handle before shooting it, you've created a fuse to light the escaping propane. Also, you need a gun with a large enough caliber to penetrate the tank since they are designed to be fairly sturd. You might've seen a certain episode of mythbusters that involved propane tanks and gunfire, pistol rounds for the most part only dented the side of the canOnce the flare is lit and you have successfully penetrated the shell, the escaping gases will be ignited by the flare, resulting in a huge explosion guaranteed to send some bodies flying. Just be careful as the blast radius varies depending on the size of the tank and amount of propane. You can easily take yourself or others out if you aren't careful.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ammonia Bomb: The Ammonia Bomb is just a weapon to be used to slow down the un-dead, not stop them. though it is highly effective against those pesky religious fanatics! This is a very simple process, simply find any plastic, seal-able container, such as a Coke bottle or a milk jug, and fill 1/3 of the way with bleach. then find any source of ammonia (human urine) and add to the mixture. **IMPORTANT NOTICE** HAVE YOUR EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACTS SUFFICIENTLY PROTECTED OR CLOSE YOUR EYES AND STOP BREATHING UNTIL CONTAINER IS SEALED!! OFFGASING HAZARD** After sealing the bottle through to desired area and the gas will build up until the bottle explodes releasing a cloud of ammonia gas. this gas once entered the respiratory tract gas severe pain and liquefies the lungs into a pool of viscous fluid.
WARNING: People have died using this mix of chemicals (in their own homes by accident). It is not to be taken lightly. In an enclosed space with no ventalation, it can prove to be lethal.
MRE Bomb: MREs are nice thing to have with you. It will feed you and dont need the heat to actually make the food eatable.
In the bomb, you need a sealable container (example. water bottle), the heater, and some projectiles, or the salt and tabasco from the MRE
now open the bottle, but some water in it, then put projectiles or spice mix (spices will protect from raiders, it doesent really protect from skinjobs)
now that you have added the little suprise into the bottle, open up the Heater and take the powder inside the bags.
WARNING: When the powder his the water, it will start to heat. IT WILL start creating preasure and when it explodes, it will throw the stuff inside of
the bottle all around the place, so the salt and tabasco might go to eyes or the projectiles into the zeds.
You can also watch the video on youtube.
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Raid Bomb: The Raid bomb is the simplest and probably one the most effective tools available. Raid bug spay is an inhibitor of acetylcholinesterase, the chemical that tells your body to relax your muscles. When this chemical is stopped so does muscular movement. Raid is essentially a toned-down nerve agent, the use of which is nearly endless. If clearing houses or defending an enclosed space, simply throw a can of Raid, puncture in any way (preferably from a distance as Raid is flammable and you don't want to breathe any of it in) and wait till the agent disperses. Then go and finish off the twitchers. Go here for more on nerve agents.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Firecrackers:
These small, semi-explosive devices can be found in many places. Though they are intended for entertainment, they can be dangerous. One test showed a Cherry Bomb blowing off a crash-test dummie's head. Either directly use these, or scavenge the parts for more potent explosives.
To use, simply light the fuse and toss.
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Greek Fire: Well not actually greek fire but close it burns fast strong and on water, all it takes is olive oil, bees wax, and some lard.
Mix them and heat till liquid, then unleash, it actually burns better if it is blown on and it can't be put out via water. It is that good!
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Frag Bomb Shell: Recipe for a serious frag bomb. Keep in mind that this is just the SHELL. The actual ...BOOM!!! is in your hands but I've heard that Solid Oxygen (solidox) works well.
First you need soft clay. Work it into the shape (can shape works) you want leaving a hole at the top for the charge but make it thin and it must stay soft enough to press stuff into. This is going to be done in layers.
Next (use gloves) press shards of glass (or hard plastic) into the clay. Small shards or large makes no difference but smaller makes for more fraggage (my word).
Let dry.
Next you get another bit of clay and work it around the shell you just made so that the glass is sandwiched between them. After that press ball bearings into the clay making sure that they are spaced relatively even. Let dry. Get another bit of clay and sandwich the ball bearings.
Let dry. Now for the detonation system. Fuses work best here as all that is required is to put a small hole at the top and slide in the fuse but any method will work. Simply fill the shell with your explosive of choice and work clay around the top making sure to anchor the trigger system.
Let dry for the FINAL time and there you have it! Shaped charges are even simpler to do as there is little shaping involved. The only difference is a steel plate at the back to make sure that the bulk of the force is sent forward. This shell is only as effective as the charge so the risk is negotiable. Just be easy with it since it is clay. ~~~Credit to Carnack for thinking of this~~~
Carnack's historic note: This was originally based on the Greek grenade that used scorpions and other toxic insects.
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The Legendary Semi-Non-Lethal Pepper Spray Bomb!(warning: only proven to work against the living)
Pepper spray is often underestimated as a dangerous weapon. it is most effective in buildings and small spaces(usually deadly if not aired out correctly) a single 2 oz can of pepper spray can make a house unlivable untill the house is aired out.
just take a can of spray throw it in an poorly ventilated area puncture it and run(or run into a house spray the whole can, then close the door behind you) Great way to get out any unwanted living.(for best results use 10+ of them in your local walmart. bring your gasmask)
one of my family members used a whole can of peopperspray on the floor of a trailer to keep the dogs away, and we almost passed out from how strong it was. the house didnt have any open windows, so we opened a door to try and air it out(worked after 2 hours)
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The Log Cannon/Bomb http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJgYtt99V5s (this will kinda show you how to make and will show you effects)
this works for those who need heavy artillery or need thousands of zombies blown up.
there are two parts to this bomb: the cannon then the bomb.
- take a decent sized log and drill out its center leaving a sizeabale bit at one end that is undrilled
- put one end o the log on a stand so its like a teetertotter with the hole end pointing up
- drill out a small hole through the side of the end of the drilled out area and put in a fuse
- put gunpowder at the end of the barrel
- put a metal ball of some sort that fits the big drilled hole(use styrofoam to make it fit if need be)
- put iron hoops around log to reinforce it(you can find them in wooden barrels)
- aim then light the fuse and run
- take out hoops
- put a couple pounds of black powder at the bottem of the barrel
- plug up the log barrel
- light the fuse and drive 2 miles away(will take out 1 square mile, the wood splinters are the real killers.)
WARNING: IF DONE IMPROPERLY WILL KILL YOU AND ALL OF YOUR NEIGHBORS SO DONT TRY THIS AT HOME
Hairdryer Ignitor
Go get a hairdryer of some sort. it doesnt have to work, it just needs a heat setting. (It actually may not need heat, just look in the back of it for a bunch of wire.)
Your going to also need at least a foot of copper wire,you can also use a stripped extension cord or rip open a broken radio.(or longer, how far do you need to detonate this away?) 9volt or larger voltage battery,
some kind of wire cutters/strippers, (or use your teeth/knife)
and preferably a switch, or at least a makeshift paperclip switch.
Rip open the hairdryer. Really. hit it with a hammer a couple times, whatever you need to do to get to that heating element.
Why you do get to the heating element, cut the large coil of wire, anywhere you want to. If it makes you feel better in this infested world, cut three times, making a smiley face.
Then, cut off a piece of this wire about an inch and a half long.loop the ends of the wire, only using less than 1/8inch to make the loop.
Cut your copper wire/extension cord in half. Cut a 2 inch piece from one of the halves. connect this to the battery. then connect the switch to this 3inch lead.connect on half of the larger wire to the other side of the switch. connect the end of this lead to your hairdryerWire. conect your other half or copper wire to the other side of the hairdryer wire, then finish up by connecting your second half of copper wire to the battery. It doesnt matter which terminal you start from or end from, just make sure you have a good connection.
It should go:
Battery--3inchLead--Switch--half of copper wire--hairDryerWire--otherHalfOfCopperWire--back to the battery.
For reference, the hair dryer wire is actually nichrome wire, a high resistance wire made up of Nickel and Chromium, and when an electrical current passes through it, the wire heats up, becomes red, and ignites things up to 2300 degrees farenheight!!! (check those numbers?) sadly, after that point, the wire begins to melt, and the connection stops. -WoodlandGhillie
