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| Note on zombie killing implements: If you are within melee distance of a zombie, you are in immediate danger of being attacked and infected. In this situation, you only have two options: 1.) Flee, or 2.) Eliminate the zombie. Placing yourself within reach of a zombie more than quadruples your chances of infection. For this reason, your primary weapon should always be a firearm that you are comfortable with and experienced in using. However, there are times where you may not be able to access your primary weapon, or when absolute silence is vital to surviving. Below is a list of melee weapons that may be at hand during such desperate situations. Each potential weapon has a description to familiarize you with their characteristics and properties, but in the end, you must use your own judgment in choosing a melee weapon. Common sense is key.|
The axe is possibly one of the oldest weapons known to man, right after the club, knife, and hand-axe. A major advantage is simply the sheer weight of an axe; a well-made blow can bring down any defense, either by smashing a shield out of the way (possibly damaging/crippling the arm behind it) or smashing through flesh and bone to take out the arm, possibly removing it altogether. Keep in mind that any swing with an axe is a commited swing that cannot be easily stopped or changed once in motion, and a miss can leave you off-balance or at the very least provide a relatively long opening for a counterattack. Be prepared to block or dodge an incoming hit after a missed swing or shove the zombie away as it moves past your guard. Keep your weapon sharp so you can disable limbs easier (it's much harder to dismember when the limb isn't supported by a surface, like the ground or a table) and keep a smaller, faster weapon handy in case you miss. If you have the accuracy, swing for the temple to make cleaving through the skull easier.
Much like the axe in terms of dynamics, many of the same tactics used for the axe can be applied here. The biggest difference is that an axe cleaves things, and a hammer smashes things. A downward swing from a sledgehammer will have little to no difficulty smashing a skull, while swings to the temple can easily cause a skull fracture that damages the brain. Like axes, sledgehammers are heavy (often between 10 and 20 pounds) and any swing is a fully commited swing that HAS to connect to prevent you from being left open.
The shovel is definitely a weapon of opportunity, probably more useful for burying stiffs than killing them. However, in the hands of a good user, it could serve some purpose. Shovels with longer shafts can be swung, much like a dull axe. However, shovels are heavy, and over-swing is an issue. The blade could be used as a small, improvised shield, useful when your opponent swings back. The blade is not sharp, but getting whacked with it would stall a zombie for sure and could possibly be filed to sharpen it and make it more effective as a hacking weapon, especially in the neck. Use it until you find something more suitable. There are smaller shovels that can be used in much the same way as a hatchet, to the point where the US Army trains its troops in its combat use. Military spades are known as entrenching tools, or E-tools. With a well-sharpened blade, you can deliver hard thrusts to the nasal/orbital region (the bridge of the nose) that can slice through to the brain, but an unsharpened blade will likely do little but leave gashes.
A tool used mainly for opening locked things, such as containers, doors, and windows. Also known as a wrecking bar, it is also used for demolition purposes, such as removing nails and pulling down wooden beams. The crowbar is an invaluable tool during a zombie epidemic, as it grants the user access to virtually anything that needs to be opened, locked or otherwise. Most are made out of carbon steel, and are a bit hefty. Unfortunately the crowbar is not especially balanced as a weapon compared to dedicated killing tools and can be awkward to swing with, especially without an improvised grip (such as tape or cloth). The best solution is to use the blunt end of the hook to deliver several hard swings to the temple or occipital region and smashing the jaw to make it more difficult for the zombie to bite. Using either of the sharp ends is a good way to get your weapon stuck in a skull.
Also known as a "Bush-Axe", "Kaiser Blade" or "Sling-Blade", the weapon is very similar to an axe in design, with the addition of a hooked head. It almost begs to you to chop something into tiny bits. The same dynamics that apply to an axe, can be applied here. The unique head (surprisingly similar in design to some of Ancient China's polearms) could be utilized for quick limb destruction. However, this weapon is just as, if not more hefty than an axe. Make your swing count, and follow through if you miss.
There isn't much to be said about the pick-axe that hasn't already been mentioned. Similar to an ax in design, with the exception of a spiked head on one side, and a flat chisel on the other. The pick has a good chance of getting stuck in the skull; remember that as soon as a zombie is dead, all 150-200 pounds of it becomes dead weight attached to your weapon. The chisel has some good chance of causing a skull fracture to the temple, but the length and weight makes it awkward to use in close quarters.
A garden spade is not much different from a shovel, except the head is squared off and flattened out. All the principles the apply to the shovel, apply here.
Commonly disregarded, the screwdriver is perhaps a good choice for an improvised weapon you can find in any tool kit in the world. Screwdrivers vary greatly; there are many different types of heads, handles, lengths and materials. They are very common and can be found almost anywhere from private residences to office buildings to commercial districts. They are also incredibly durable.
A screwdriver is most effective when used to stab into the eye socket, the nasal cavity, the ear canal, the temple, or under the mandible and up into the brain. Is it not recommended, but the screwdriver also has the potential to be jammed through the skull, although this would require an incredibly strong blow. The obvious limitation of the screwdriver is it's reach, which can be uncomfortably close.
Common screwdrivers can also be filed down into more-effective weapons, to mimic devices such as the scratch awl or the ice pick; into long straight spikes with little resistance to a stabbing motion.
Although some kinds are fairly unwieldy as a weapon, they are all fairly heavy and very hard. Not the greatest weapon, but you've a better chance cracking a zombie's head with this than your bare hands. Aim for the temple, as with any blunt weapon. Also useful if you have a vehicle with a flat tire.
The pipe/monkey wrench may not be your first choice for a weapon, but this hunk of steel is quite effective in close-quarters combat. If used correctly, it has the capability to break bone and crush skulls with generally less effort, making it an effective bludgeon. Its variety in sizes ranging from smaller single-hand versions, to larger sledge-hammer sized versions make it one of the more difficult tools to judge. Its uses as a weapon vary as much as it does in size. In most cases, make your strikes for the temple and make them hard. Don't expect one strike to work.
As good a weapon as the pipe/monkey wrench is, its practical applications must not be overlooked. It can be used in the place of any of a large collection of wrenches, loosening nuts, bolts, and pipes of a wide variety. This makes it an ideal tool when salvaging parts from machinery and certain kinds of constructions.
Overall, the pipe wrench is very useful, and you might want to hold onto it even if you don't plan to use it for zombie killing.
Though it isn't exactly the most effective weapon to finish off a zombie, if there is no other weapon in sight, a plank's bashing capabilities make for a quick improvised weapon. They can be awkward to hold with their flat, wide design, but the addition of nails or bolts in the wood can improve damage at least against a human combatant. It'll take very hard swings to cause brain damage, so mostly use the plank with a combination of kicks and shoves to knock your undead opponent down and run or get a new weapon. Useful for construction as well.
Note: For an in-depth look at short range melee weapons, go to Knives 101, here.
Cleavers are excellent at chopping through flesh and can be wielded with great dexterity and precision with training, but the problem comes when trying to break bones. The cleaver is designed for cutting meat and simply does not have the heft to cleave through a skull. Stick to decapitating strikes.
The Halberd is a long wooden staff topped by a unique weapon-head; A several-inch axe blade with sharpened hook on the opposite side with a spike on the top. The halberd combines a number of medieval melee weapons into one device, it has all the abilities of a spear, a battle ax and a war hammer.
The staff is usually very long ranging from approximately three feet (in which it is called a "Poleaxe") to approximately six feet. The head of the axe is usually composed of steel or bronze and is very hefty.
The Halberd can be used in several different ways, each requiring more training and competence to wield safely and effectively. Using the halberd in a spear-type fashion is fairly simple and straight forward. The spike can be used to puncture the skull cavity through the underside of the chin or to keep a zombie at bay.
The large axe-like blade can be used to cleave through skulls and disable limbs. Using the halberd like this requires a fair bit of practice. As with many of the long-handle melee weapons, this tool can easily cause the user to loose their balance and become exposed to a counter attack. The hook side of the blade can also be used in a similar capacity, with intention to pierce, but beware getting it stuck in a skull.
The length of the halberd limits it's effectiveness in a confined space and is best not used in one. This weapon is primarily designed to fend of opponents in a exterior environment. When used in a large organized group, halberds can be very effective in dispatching a medium group of slow-moving zombies.
Real battle-ready halberds are a rarity. With most medieval-era melee weapons, this is a type of device you will likely only find in the possession of a collector or if you pay top dollar for a truly deadly replica.
A useful weapon for close encounters, provided one doesn't attempt anything flashy or foolish. It'll take quite a few swings to penetrate to the brain without great force, but it is certainly possible. Multiple chops can also take a head off. However, one could actually circumvent severing the head proper if they go for the back of the neck. Even if your sole purpose is to kill the zombie(s), as opposed to escape, it is a simple matter involving your foot and gravity once the spinal column is severed. Do remember, this is a close range weapon. So if one can avoid engaging the zombie at all, do so.
A very useful tool. Lightweight, multipurpose and easily stowed. This is a very close range weapon, though not quite as durable as a fixed-blade knife due to the design. The best design is one that can reach the brain all the way from the underside of the skull, which can be a rather long blade for some folders.
The primary weapon of the Japanese samurai. It is also a weapon of great debate and controversy within the zombie survival community. Often called the deadliest edged weapon ever created, the katana uses its curved blade to slice cleanly through its target. Properly cutting with the katana requires a firm but gentle grip not at all unlike how one holds a golf club, and striking the target with the section of the blade roughly 3 inches from the tip for maximum leverage and power. Against a human, the katana is extremely dangerous as it can easily and cleanly slice through flesh and bone, severing major arteries and ensuring a swift death from bleeding out.
How it performs against your traditional undead zombie is where its deadliness falters, and where all of its controversy begins. Although it's true that a katana is fully capable of beheading a human or zombie, doing so requires precise aim, considerable forearm strength, and proper technique that can only be adequately provided by a licensed instructor and a long time of practice. Also, like other edged weapons, katanas require constant cleaning to prevent rust and will require its edge to be honed after several uses. It is perhaps a better solution for those without the strength or precision for a one or two-strike beheading to stab upward under the chin into the bottom of the skull.
Many katanas are not truly made for combat, either. If you are set on purchasing a katana, only buy one that you know for certain will stand up to rigorous cutting and have passed numerous destruction tests. Cheness Cutlery is one company that makes such a katana, and searching will yield a handful of others. So before you commit to your purchase, be honest to yourself and ask yourself this question: can I REALLY use this weapon to its maximum potential? If you have any doubt at all, it's best to move on to something else. Remember, there's no shame in acknowledging your limits. In a world ruled by the living dead, pride is a fool's emotion that will only get you killed.
Similar to a Broadsword in nature yet can be used as both a single and double handed weapon. If maintained correctly and kept sharp could easily cleave through a Zed's neck. One problem with it is its weight, which is typically about five and a half pounds. Practice would be needed to wield correctly and with needed accuracy. Good upper body strength would also be needed for intended results against a zombie. A good source would be needed to find a suitable claymore that is battle-worthy and not just for decoration just as in a katana.
Relatively inexpensive, reliable, possesses a decent reach (depending on blade length) and is light enough for those on the go, making for an excellent companion. In addition to its exciting, combative abilities, the tool is also excellent at trail and brush clearing.
Machetes are widely available; carbon-steel rated machetes are common implements in western hardware and military surplus stores.To be use effectively as a weapon, especially in a confined environment, one should be thoroughly experienced and trained with the tool's function. It is not uncommon for an inexperienced use to wield the blade inappropriately, causing it to shear off a surface and strike themselves. In the event of combat with a zombie, this type of injury would almost certainly be fatal or lead to direct exposure to infection.
The machete blade is not intended for stabbing motions, though it can certainly be stabbed into a neck or spinal cord in a pinch. The device is meant for slashing and cutting, and will bend appropriately. It has been known to penetrate human skull, although it much more effective at removal of limbs and decapitation. The risk of getting a machete blade stuck is fairly low due to the blade's slim profile and lack of serration. Be prepared for multiple swings for both limb removal and head removal.
There are several types of machetes aside from the one you're probably most familiar with. The two handed machete has a much smaller blade than the traditional machete, meaning that you have to be much more accurate, but using two hands means that you have more control over the blade. It is very similar to a brush axe. Another type is the bolo machete, which gets much wider at the tip for heavier swings. This of course means less control over the blade. The double edged machete is probably my favorite one, it has a blade on each side. If you swing and miss the, you can easily try again as you bring the blade back. Also, if one side gets dull you can switch to the other. Another is the heavy machete, this one has a very wide blade. It can easily behead an infected, but is the least controllable of all of the machetes.
Fairly straightforward. A long stick with a sharp piece of metal or rock on the end, or even just one end sharpened to a point. To use it, you simply jab the sharp end through the zombie's temple, under the jaw, or, if you canmuster the strength, through another part of the skull and directly into the brain. Can also be used to keep a zombie at a distance. Note: May get stuck. Training and/or practice recommended before use. Remember that the eye socket is a region about the size of a quarter on a moving target, making it a difficult task to hit it even for an experienced user.
The spear is known for it versatility and effectiveness as a potential defense weapon. Creating a significant distance between the combatant and the zombie, a buffer zone of safety can be created; an opportunity for the combatant to react to a mistake. This is an attribute that not many melee weapons share.
Spears are not common in any regard and will only be found in museums, military surpluses or specialty shops. They can, however, be fashioned fairly simply out of everyday materials, which can make them a very effective last-minute weapon. Simply remove the head of a broom (with a wooden handle) and either sharpen the end to a point or attach a blade to the end with duct tape, such as a small knife or a shard of glass. Also, SOG makes a spearhead that acts as a fixed pocket knife, but can be unscrewed, and the point/blade can be screwed into a broom handle, making a kind of makeshift spear, with and actual spearhead at the point.
The value of the spear of a defensive weapon is priceless. It can be uses effectively to dispatch zombies from behind a barricade or other obstacle.
Swords in general:
Simple and effective, but if it gets stuck in a zombie, it can be a bit of a pain. Use when against two or less adversaries is advisable. As with katanas, even the "battle ready" swords are most of the time fake, ineffective and will break.
The solution: do your homework ahead of time. There are plenty of genuine combat-ready blades available, but you need to sift through the ones that will leave you drooling for brains to find them.
Expect to spend several hundred dollars, go to blade forums to do some checking on the blade you are considering, look for reputable manufacturers/smiths.
Significant practice is essential to wield a sword effectively against an undead foe. Becoming an experienced sword user is a long-term endeavor and is not something a rookie should attempt to do. Always expect to make multiple hits to the neck or limbs if you plan on removing body parts.
This thing never runs out of ammo! Fixed on the end of a decent gun, the two can prove to be a lifesaving combination. A quick jab into a zombie can provide you with enough distance to get away, though you may have to sacrifice your gun if it gets stuck or pulls the zombie in closer on the way out. Also a useful knife, with most modern bayonets being general purpose knives first and bayonets second. Again, not a commonly obtained item, and not legal for civilian use in all states. However, in most states this law is applied as "Installed/Fixed", meaning simple possession is not an issue; Simply leave it in the gun case (including fold-out versions) until it is 'required.' Modern bayonets function as a combat knife, which justifies their continued usage on modern firearms, but older bayonets also included mine probes (with a long, sharp tip), short swords, machetes, or saw blades. Quite a few surplus military weapons, like the SKS and Mosin-Nagant rifles, come with folding bayonets.
Used in World War One, these were made for rough hand-to-hand combat in the trenches of the Western Front. The blade can be swung into a zombie's skull, and the design usually allows for relatively easy removal from the zombie. This weapon does require the physical strength to put the blade through the skull and the accuracy to place it there. As with the knife, stabbing directly into the skull is impractical. A stab to the lower jaw up into the brain or through the ear canal would be better. When gripping the knife in the finger holes it can be used as brass knuckles with spikes if a zombie surprises you and you don't have time to stab or the tip breaks. A punch with brass knuckles can easily knock a zombie or human back, though don't expect to ever make a kill with them.
The Kukri is a traditional Nepalese or Indian weapon, and are used in ceremonies/religious rites, and is also used for many practical applications (clearing brush, chopping down small trees, splitting small logs, etc). Pick one of the big ones with a two-foot blade. Weighting toward the end gives a harder hit and its curve gives a longer cut. The blade is built as a hybrid of a hatchet and a machete, built for chopping.
A 6-foot-long staff with a flat, bell-shaped blade on one end and an outward facing crescent blade on the other. The spade is a very long melee weapon, much like a halberd, which limits its usage to wide open spaces. Both blades can decapitate or slice through the bridge of the nose into the brain, but it takes long training to acquire the skill to use one effectively. The biggest problem is finding yourself a replica designed for actual combat.
A farmer's tool used for harvesting grains and cutting long grass. Due to it's configuration, the common farming scythe is a long and heavy tool that requires significant practice to use efficiently. For proper use, the farming scythe requires long and broad sweeps, moving from the right side of the body to the left and ending in front of the user's body, held low to the ground at a downward angle with the blade perpendicular to the ground. As a weapon, the farming scythe leaves much to be desired. When hefted at neck level, the downward angle that the scythe uses to adequately slice is lost, and tremendous strength will be necessary to push the blade through its thick flesh-and-bone target; a target that the farming scythe was not designed to cut. A zombie's constant movement further negates the possibility of decapitation, as the scythe will only cut correctly if the point of impact remains unchanged.
A scratch awl is a marking tool used in fine carpentry and is a common implement of most woodworkers. It is composed of a small steel spike about 6 to 8 inches long and thin in diameter. This is a tool used to make written impression on soft lumber. It has a small circular handle, designed to be held flat against the palm.
When used as a weapon, the scratch awl can rival the Trench Spike in terms of efficiency in skull penetration. The obvious limitation of this weapon is its very short reach. This make a great backup weapon for enclosed spaces, but is not recommended as a primary weapon, especially when engaging multiple foes.
Ice Picks were common household implements up until the mid 1940's when iceboxes were casually replaced with compression refrigeration units and the breaking of ice blocks was no longer required. Similar in appearance and function to a screwdriver, with a long blade and thick handle, it also shares a resemblance with the scratch awl. The blade is an elongated steel spike designed for puncture and withdrawal. Much like the scratch awl, the reach is a vital limitation of this device.
Kamas are a weapon of Japanese origin, based on Okinawan farmers' sickles. Their main use is for stabbing, jabbing, or slashing. They are a close combat weapon and should only be used by people having extensive training by a licenced instructor. The best method of use is to stab through the temple into the brain, but make sure to extract it quickly before the falling body tugs your weapon from your hand.
The farmer's sickle is a similar weapon, though often with a blade more similar to the scythe (above). Traditional sickles are designed for chopping grass, not flesh; keep this in mind when trying to make a decapitating swing. It'll definitely take many strikes to kill, so be fast on your feet and know when to quit.
This bludgeon, perhaps more so then any other of its like, has more variations in quality and use. Though it generally lacks a one-hit kill ability, general applications such as prying doors or hammering a nail, or anything such as a ready-made sheath, belt loop or folding ability, and all those other fancy features, the baseball bat can be an excellent bludgeon. When using a bat, try aiming for the skull, 1½ to 2 inches forward of and in line with the top the ear (the temple). If this fails, you will likely smash the jaw, making biting impossible. The addition of nails can greatly increase the damage to a human target, but against a zombie you're more at risk of them getting stuck in the target or just causing plenty of bleeding holes with no real damage increase.
One significant drawback to the use of a baseball bat is the fact that it is designed to transfer energy directly along its length. This means that, when a combatant strikes a zombie's skull, the vibration of the impacted is direct into the user's arms and shoulder. When used repeatedly, this can lead to injury and discomfort. Also, the baseball bat is long and very difficult to use in a confined space. As with all blunt weapons, it needs room to swing before it can go from harmless to lethal.
There are several materials used for making bats: wood is the traditional material, while aluminum is rapidly becoming more common (especially for cheap bats at department stores). Aluminum bats are lighter and aren't at risk of cracking or breaking, but constant use can warp them from repeated strikes. Composite fiber bats are more expensive, though light and strong, but also have been shown to be susceptible to cracking or shattering in cold weather. Cold Steel has a bat that it claims to be unbreakable, made of polymer to allow them to be bent back into place if warped while allowing for a long lifespan and strong hits and can be cleaned with soap and water.
Maces were some of the first weapons developed with the intention of killing human beings. A flanged mace is essentially an advanced club made of materials such as iron, steel, wood and leather. Usually an iron or steel head mounted on a wooden pole about two to three feet long with a leather wrapped handle and lanyard. The emphasis of the flanged mace is penetrating blunt force trauma, designed originally to deliver heavy blows to helmeted heads and armored torsos, bypassing the armor at point of contact by increasing PSI and lowering connecting surface area. Being an upgraded club, the flanged mace is weldable by all who have two working arms and hands, as no great skill is required to swing and connect the striking area to the intended target.
The drawback of the mace is the close proximity required to be of any use. It is also possible to lodge the flanges' in an animated corpse or not so animated objects around you. Its wooden handle is also vulnerable to damage. Hardening/tempering the wood and leather bindings should help a great deal. The mace also requires room to swing, with extremely close quarters proving counterproductive. Lastly, other than a weapon the mace is of no use to a survivor trying to economize on weight and space, as it could very well become ten pounds of dead weight. Make sure that the mace you purchase is legitimate because most maces for sale are NOT 'battle-ready' and the head of the mace could become detached from a heavy blow, leaving you with a stick and an angry zombie. Bad situation.
Basically a crude bludgeon, the shillalagh was used in rural Ireland, due to the English not banning its use as a walking stick. Not the best choice, but has some merit. Some of these have a knots sticking out and are also very strong compared to other types of wood, even against a baseball bat. This weapon should be used primarily for immediate self-defense. If you have a better option, use it.
The cricket bat is very similar in use to a wooden baseball bat. Make hard strikes, preferably the temple, and always check your weapon for cracks. Otherwise treat it the same as a baseball bat.
Indian War Club:
In battle, a dedicated blow from the ball of the club could easily break a limb or crush a skull like a bat going through a watermelon. For added dynamism, the ball is spiked with a small iron stub. Cold Steel is one of the very few modern suppliers, with their club made of essentially unbreakable polymer.
A hardwood bludgeon shaped like a katana. Solid hits can bruise and break bones. Not recommended if you haven't trained at least a little with Japanese swords. Unless you plan on hitting trees like a madman, it should hold up in battle. These can usually be ordered on the Internet for cheap or found in cheap weapons shops. If you're even just an amateur with swords and think you can grab on and run, be more conservative with your strikes. While not the most sturdy weapon over longer use, one strong attack can cause a broken neck.
Wooden Broom Handle:
Fairly plentiful and easy to get/construct, the wooden broom handle makes a very nice walking stick, good for those long hiking trips through the zombie-infested forest. It might not have been your first choice for a weapon, but when you find yourself face-to-face with a zombie, you will probably use whatever is in your hand at the time. Although not especially lethal in the hands of a novice, the wooden broom handle is a self-defense weapon, used to push/hit back attacking zombies and to knock them off balance. This allows you some time (a few seconds) to draw your weapon of choice (assuming you brought one into the zombie-infested forest), or escape. If you have quite a bit of time on your hands, you might be able to fashion an effective short spear, either by sharpening the end to a point or duct taping a knife or glass shard to the end.
By far the most varied in length, width, weight, shape, and composition, the metal pipe is an improvised weapon at best, and totally useless at worst. Most are either too big and heavy (over 6 inches in diameter) or too small and light (very bendable) to be of much use, so not just any pipe you can find is going to be good for zombie bashing. That's why you need to be careful, and try to find the pipe that's right for you.
The suggested measurements for metal pipes are: a diameter between 1 1/4 inches to 2 1/2 inches, a thick "wall" so it won't bend or dent too easily, and a length longer then 1 foot but short enough that it's not too long and unwieldy. The measurements can vary, but the important thing is that you should try to find a pipe that fits you best. If it's too long, you can always cut it. If the diameter is too big/small for you, change accordingly.
Overall, the metal pipe can be a fairly effective zombie bashing tool, but it can also not be. As said before, metal pipes vary in quality and capability, so it is not suggested you rely on one as a weapon until you are sure the pipe is of zombie-bashing quality. The ideal metal pipe will have the capability to break bone and spine, and otherwise disable a zombie temporarily or permanently. A pipe in the hands of a capable user is able to do a lot of damage.
Cutting off one end of the pipe at an angle can create a rather devastating point that can be used for stabbing/piercing and such.
The Hockey Stick:
The Hockey stick is relatively common outside of areas where the sport is played often. They are made from wood, fiberglass, plastic, and a few other materials. Strength varies between sticks, but it'll take very good hits to the temple or neck to cause a disabling swing.
Another use for the hockey stick is it's ability to trip a zombie. Working with a friend someone can trip the zombie up and the other can follow through with a blow to the head, neck or ribcage from another melee weapon.
Weapons Of Opportunity
These are tools that usually do not lend themselves to combat well. However, if you are suddenly attacked (on a work party, scavenging, etc), they may well be the only weapon within reach (or it might already be in hand) and can serve you well... until you can get a real weapon, that is.
It's noisy, needs regular cleaning, guts and other bodily matter jam the blade and it runs on already scarce and precious gas. Basically useless in any situation. Unfortunately, this weapon strikes most civilians as the ultimate zombie-killer because of its portrayal in movies. The only advantages are the psychological advantage of having a massive, roaring blade in your hands and the fact that it can easily make a one-hit kill on a zombie, though a jammed blade means that you may not get more than one or two kills before it becomes useless.
In a moment of panic, one might reach for an available common kitchen knife to defend themselves. Most kitchen knives are made from cold-rolled stainless steel with either a plastic or hardwood handle.
A kitchen knife will damage an opponent more likely than kill them. If you have a blade long enough, you can puncture under the chin, through the thin bone and cartilage of the upper-mouth, through the sinuses into the brain cavity.
The reach of this weapon is extremely limited, so take extreme caution and make any hit count. If you plan on using kitchen knives as improvised weapons (or even a primary one if you have nothing else), look for knives with a good length and a durable design.
Not recommended at all, as it's worse than the chainsaw. Only real use would be to sever the head or grasping limb of a stuck zombie. For instance, if a building or wall collapses, and the zombie gets stuck under some rubble but still has a hold on you, this can be used to cut off the arm. It has no point for stabbing, won't make more than a small cut from an attempted slash, and has a very flexible blade, making it more likely to bend and break when stabbing.
The humble hammer may be your first choice when it comes to killing zombies up close, or it may be the last thing you would even think of. Whatever your opinion might be, you should be aware of the hammer's advantages and its disadvantages.
It is relatively light, rarely exceeding 6 pounds (much like medieval war hammers of the past, they are about the same weight). This is very good when it comes to swinging it around all day. An effective weapon for making multiple strikes to the temple.
The length of its short handle means you will have to get in pretty close, usually within the reach of a zombie hug. The hammer requires quite a bit of momentum to do any damage, leaving you with the problem of not being able to use it effectively in a confined space (in a crowd, or under a vehicle or something). If you hit a zombie with the sharp fork on the back of the hammer, it might get stuck, and leave you with no weapon. Try to get to a relatively open space allowing you room to swing and move about. The best handles are ones made of plastic due to the lower risk of cracking and breaking. Look for a hammer with the grip wrapped in rubber or similar shock-absorbent material.
A long fragile stick that would be better used for what it is meant for: playing pool. However, if you are forced to use one to defend yourself, quickly break it off and use it as an improvised spear, stabbing upward under the chin and into the brain.
A crude improvised weapon, in the midst of a hand-to-hand fight bottles can be shoved into a zombie's mouth until it gets stuck and thereby buy you time to escape. While movies and TV often portray bottles being broken to form an improvised knife, the more likely result of trying this move for real is an unbroken bottle or a handful of broken glass slicing your hand to ribbons. If you plan on using this as a weapon, take hard swings with an unbroken bottle to the temple; if it holds up, it can cause hemorrhaging and skull fractures with repeated hits.
Cast-iron frying pan:
Big, heavy, and unwieldy, this tool is best used for cooking and not zombie killing. Although, if you are ever caught off-guard in the kitchen and have nothing else, it is better then nothing. It's weight is more then enough to break bone with a direct hit, and has plenty of potential energy to smash zombie skulls. Cast iron pans (if not maintained) are breeding grounds for bacteria and fungus. So if you ever use it on a zombie, you may not want to use it for cooking; while cleaning can possibly make it safe, better safe than sorry.
If you have nothing better to use, best look for one of these. They can be quite plentiful and versatile, good for bashing zombie skulls. Usually found laying about on the ground, and easy to find if you know where to look. They can also be used for distracting or attracting zombies by throwing them and making noise.
The biggest problem with rocks is the sheer variety in weight and appearence; many rocks are better left laying on the ground.
Known best as the pitchfork, it is an intimidating weapon, but not that effective when attacking zombies. It is very good at what it does, but it was never intended to be used as a weapon. The pitchfork has relatively sharp, yet skinny prongs, varying in number from two to some times 10. They can easily be bent out of shape during combat, but can be fixed just as easily with a bit of elbow grease.
A thrusting weapon, it is best used for stabbing under the chin into the underside of the brain. Stabbing for the eye sockets (already tiny targets on a moving head) is compounded by the spaces of the prongs, which can easily turn an attempted eye stab into a non-lethal facial wound.
If, however, you aim for the chest and rib cage (or any other large part of the body), you can keep the zombie in question at a distance, allowing you to hold it off until you let go, or it backs off. In 1 on 1 engagements, this can be an advantage, being able to manipulate the zombie and possibly push it into a pit, or down onto it's back or against a wall. If you are outnumbered, it is advised you look for something else.
The Bow/Steel Rake:
Coming in various shapes, sizes, and weights, the steel rake is a strong and useful tool that can be used for anything from from farming, to sifting through rubble, and turning stuff over in the fire. It may not be your first choice as a weapon, but it can do quite a bit of damage if used correctly (this goes double for the industrial strength rakes). The solid steel head can be an effective bludgeon, and the wide flat end is good for pushing a zombie back.
Many modern households have replaced these rakes with wide, flat plastic-headed rakes: these are beyond useless at even shoving a zombie back with the head and are best used with the head removed, much like a broom.
This item can usually be found in most homes with chimneys and is normally right next to the fire place. It sports a sharp, weighted tip which makes it easy to swing and pierce through the temple or underside of the skull. Generally they are made of durable cold-rolled steel, but are sometimes made of brass, too, which makes it tough enough to be used as a weapon for several encounters.
The poker is only good for 1 vs 1; it has a tendency to get stuck into things when used to stab; and if the angle of impact is sketchy, it could possibly bend the poker. Overall, the fire poker is a good weapon to pick up and use as a way to get out of immediate danger of 1 or 2 zombies. In the long run, however, it is pretty useless in terms of necessity, and should only be used as a last resort.
These pieces of equipment are not very durable, and will probably be bent out of shape to the point of uselessness after little more than a dozen blows. Also, they are very lightweight, and will probably bounce harmlessly off of a zombie's skull. If it's the only thing you have on you, then it's a good idea to use it to push zombies away rather than fight them.
A snowboard can, if large enough, be used as a long blunt weapon with a good grip of one of the footholds. However, it is a very long and heavy weapon to lug around. Snowboards and skis are probably more effective for building barricades than for fighting zombies
Paratech Hooligan Tools:
The Hooligan Tool is one of the world´s most popular forcible entry tools. These heavy-duty tools were designed to pound, puncture, pry, twist, and cut all types of barriers encountered by emergency service personnel.The head and claw are forged from high alloy steel, heat treated for maximum strength, then fitted to a 1” (2.5 cm) stress proof bar. The bar has machine grooved non-slip grips. The Hooligan Tool features a newly designed claw that is gently curved for maximum prying leverage. The claw opening is parallel and fits over locks, hasps and many door bars. It can also be used as a nail puller and a gas shut off during emergencies. The new “Highway Hooligan Tool” features a new metal cutting claw with a machine sharpened metal cutter that uses the can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.
Standard Claw: Parallel opening for gas valve shutoffs, locks and hasps. Machine sharpened claws. Recessed nail puller. Claw radius for prying leverage. Grip-machine grooved non-slip grips.
Metal Cutting Claw: Combines the capability of prying and metal cutting. Machine sharpened metal cutter uses can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.
Bright Chrome Finish: The standard high gloss chrome plated finish is available for good looks and easy maintenance.
Long Pike: Sharp, tapered and gently curved to fit a lock or latch.
Long Duckbill: Smooth incline to force windows and interior doors.
Recommended Users: Fire departments, law enforcement agencies, rescue squads, HAZ-MAT teams, plant/refinery maintenance crews, military and public utilities, and post-zombie uprising salvers.
Application: Though best used as designed, a TOOL for forcing entry, a Hooligan could be used if one were suddenly attacked by a zombie while securing gas/forcing a window/etc. One whack from this, if you’re strong enough to actually use it as intended, should split their head open like a cantaloupe. However, it is still best employed as designed, like all weapons of opportunity.
Brass Knuckles/Knuckle Duster:
Although not as effective as bladed weaponry, it is preferable to bare fists. Brass knuckles have been known to have improvised additions such as small blades, broken-off screws, looped barbed wire, or metal shards. The added kinetic energy from the brass knuckles will drop a human on his or her ass and knock a zombie back more effectively than a normal punch. Don't expect to cause even a depressed skull fracture without the build of a professional wrestler and multiple full-force hits, though.
Zombies are not as weak against fire as regular humans are. A torch poses an excellent mode of transporting a flame, but it is a close range weapon unless thrown. Zombies that are on fire are still very dangerous due to the fact they feel no pain and, assuming undead zombies, will take as long as 15 minutes or more of constant burning (note: constant means the flame never goes out at any point). The fire will spread as they move, maybe catching up to the one with the torch. Ragers are much more vulnerable due to their human vulnerabilities, but the lack of pain means that they're still able to quickly move and catch up to whoever set them on fire.
After Z-Day, there is bound to be a lot of destruction, especially in urban centers. This destruction of our infrastructure can work to your advantage. Piles of rubble produce an endless supply of blunt objects and projectile weaponry such as stones, broken wood or pipes. These rubble heaps can be a great spot for improvised weapons in a jam. Remember that contrary to popular belief, you can't kill zombies with just anything.
This weapon is basically a glove with metal spikes. This weapon allows you to operate guns, machinery, etc and still have some defense against arm bites. Keep in mind that you have to get dangerously close to a zombie and will probably not kill it. Actual use of this item would entail rubbing your arm back and forth on a zombie multiple times, virtually cheese grating it to the point of hemorrhaging. During the fifteen minutes this would take, your opponent would have ample time to pause to wonder what the hell you are doing, give up, and devour you bit by bit. This should only be used if you have absolutely no other option and the zombie already has you. Better yet, don't use it.
The absolute WORST weapon you can defend yourself with is the one you were born with -- your body. (If you're close enough to do your Mike Tyson impression, they're close enough to bite you.) When forced to defend yourself against a zombie in direct, hand-to-hand combat, use a good hard shove or kick (do not bother with groin kicks, zombie's don't feel pain) to knock them either way, or better still on their asses, allowing you the minute precious seconds to escape.
If it all goes totally south, knock them down, then JUMP ON TOP OF THEM; Use your body weight to hold them down and use an weapon, even a weapon of opportunity, to kill the zombie. If no weapon is available, repeatedly stomp on the zombie's head.
An extremely simple weapon, the stick is easy to use, plentiful in rural areas or city parks and can be used as an improvised bludgeon. Unfortunately, it has very little killing power and breaks easily. Can also be turned into a torch with a rag and some alcohol. The best use of this is to not hit or try to kill the zombie, but better to simply knock it out of the way. Although this may seem stupid to some people, that push will buy you precious seconds to get away.
ASP Expandable Baton:
The ASP baton is a genericized name for expandable batons. They've become common for security and police forces as a portable baton design. The biggest problem of these batons is that they're often designed NOT to kill, being made for police use, and even breaking bones can be difficult. The collapsible design makes them inherently weaker than traditional fixed weapons and some have been known to rattle, which can turn a stealthy approach into an ambush.
More appropriate to a late’70’s/early ‘80’s pimp than a TRUE survivor of the rise of the zombies, this thing can nevertheless be used a bludgeon in a pinch. Do not use for long periods of time, as it will probably break. Also with the right one, you can look like a pimp while bashing zombie skulls. If that's what you want to look like.
This weapon really is quite useless. The chance of making a hit on any lethal area is extremely small, as is the chance of making a lethal hit even to these areas. It is mostly a harassment weapon, intending to get an enemy to duck or break off their pursuit (even an instant can buy you time to escape). Individual throwing stars are very light and won't weigh you down much, but a large number of them can. Although they say "Throwing Star", do not actually throw them. You will not have the strength nor the accuracy to deliver a killing blow. You can stab them through the temple or underside of the jaw into the brain, but this requires a long point and the skill to not get your own hand pierced when stabbing. For a more practical use, use to distract them by throwing in the general direction of an enemy, causing them to pause for a second.
T.A.S.E.R. (more commonly Taser, also TaZer) stands for “Thomas A. Swift’s Electric Rifle” and is a self defense weapon that stuns a attacker by electrocuting them, causing excruciating pain. Though zombies are thought not to feel pain, a very high voltage version could be effective to an extent, especially if aimed for the head. Taser International is the main producer, and owner of the “Taser” brand-name copyright. The police and militry M-26 variant uses a sufficiently high voltage that compliance is automatic, as it supra-contracts the muscles, making pain irrelevant. Curled up in a ball like that, you can not even protect yourself, and there is no pain tolerance involved; the subject drops and twitches. This allows it to be used against zombies even without the pain, but as a killer it won't do anything unless you give a rager a heart attack.
Really BAD Options
These are weapons that you should ONLY use if they happen to be in your hand when you are attacked; They were INTENDED for other things (usually tools), and are generally of questionable quality in that regard as well.
Save yourself the trouble; If you find them, look for something else.
Mini- And Compact-Axe Sets:
These might look like something to use, but only as a last resort. The Mini-Axe set and the Compact Axe
These "tools" have cheap tubular handles that are designed to collapse to make them easier to carry. It also makes them likely to collapse in use and maybe just bend. All that said they are still better than nothing, as long as you remember that effectively you do have nothing.
Fire extinguishers should be kept, but for fire only, as the name suggestes. As a melee weapon the fire extinguisher is bulky and awkward to hold and swing, making skull-damaging moves very difficult unless the zombie is disabled on the ground.
Bagh Nakh (Tiger's Claw)
The Indian Bagh Nakh was a close combat weapon that was usually concealed under and against the palm. It is called 'Tiger's Claw' because it was made to mimic wounds made by a wild animal by slashing through skin, muscle, and even bone. It often resembled brass knuckles, but with multiple claw-like hooks on the front. Some Bagh Nakhs were equipped with a secondary blade. Although they were excellent melee weapons against humans, Bagh Nakhs are of limited use against the undead. Even if you could find or make a combat-ready replica, the 'claws' are usually not long enough to pierce the skull and destroy the brain.
| Glove Gun|
While this weapon has become famous thanks to its appearance in Inglorious Basterds, it's a weapon that doesn't do particularly well as a melee weapon or a firearm. To fire a single .38 S&W cartridge, the user needs to punch the plunger against his opponent; when the cartridge has been fired, the weapon is little more than a glove with a metal box attached to it. Simply shooting the opponent with a gun is just as effective and probably gets more than one shot per fight.
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Keyword tags: blades Close Combat Defense defensive Fire Arms Hand improvised Melee Quarters weapons
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|samtron75v1||favourite melee weapon? (page: 1 2 3 4 5 ... last page)||1453||Yesterday, 1:34 PM EDT by White76Knight|
Thread started: Nov 21 2009, 3:08 AM EST Watch
Whats your favourite melee weapon to use. I've been training with a switchknife but my favourite is a crowbar. it's fairly lightweight, but if you swing it hard enough it can pack one powerful blow.
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|JamieIddon||Basball Bat or a Cricket Bat (page: 1 2 3)||43||Apr 20 2013, 4:21 AM EDT by wkwkwkwk1|
|sl0-m0-ti0n||Suggestions? (page: 1 2)||20||May 30 2012, 2:28 AM EDT by AlphaOneFour|
Thread started: May 27 2012, 8:04 AM EDT Watch
Well, I live in Australia and am only a young girl, and, therefore, do not have any access to firearms. I do however, live near a police station, have multiple knives in the kitchen, enough golf-clubs to outfit everybody in a tournament, rolling pins, a longbow, two or three metal lunchboxes, and a cat. I was wondering, do any of you have any suggestions for any other household objects I can use as weapons? Please help, I really don't want to be caught defenceless in the Zompocalypse.
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