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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Feb 17 2009, 10:35 PM EST | Survivor_Gill | 145 words added, 12 words deleted, 1 photo added |
| Feb 17 2009, 10:22 PM EST | wasr762 | 12 words added, 145 words deleted, 1 photo deleted |
Changes
Key: Additions Deletions
Eternally Under Construction!!!
Note: I'm going to make working on the weapons page my first editing job. I think it is in dire need of adjustment. Personally, I do not think that hitting a zombie in the head is the only way to kill it, and these weapon choices will not be subject to the old "aim for the head" theory. For convenience, please send any weapon ideas to me, "SnowmanBob". I'll see that it gets taken care of ASAP. The red line at the bottom of paragraphs helps me remember where I stopped editing, and you can keep track of my progress!
Note on zombie killing implements: A weapon of opportunity is one of the best weapons around. I'll bet that you could find over a dozen makeshift weapons in the location you are at right now (albeit, some might be more handy than others). It's no surprise that many tools made it on this list, seeing as man's first weapons doubled as his working equipment. And always remember......just because you're holding a weapon, doesn't mean use can't use your fists, feet, head, etc. To make a cake, you need to break some eggs. :-)
Tools
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Axe:
The axe is possibly one of the oldest weapons known to man, right after the club, knife, and hand-axe. More simple to make and use than a sword, the axe quickly found it's place in history. A major advantage is simply the sheer weight of an axe. With a well aimed blow, any defense an enemy your size puts up, will be interrupted if not broken. However, it takes a second to recover from a swing, so you need to aim carefully to prevent a counterattack. However, the head of the axe is not the only part that can be used for attack. If you miss, follow through by cracking your enemy in the nose with the butt of the shaft. A very good weapon to use for dismembering zombies, as long as you pay attention.Sledgehammer:
Much like the axe in terms of dynamics, many of the same tactics used for the axe can be applied here. The biggest difference is that an axe cleaves things....and a hammer smashes things. It's a very hefty weapon though, so you might get tired of carrying it around. But, any zombie body part you hit with it, might possibly cease to be an solid, singular object.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shovel/Spade/E-Tool:
The shovel is definetly a weapon of opportunity, probably more useful for burying stiffs than killing them. However, it should not be underestimated. In the hands of a good user, it could serve some purpose. Shovels with longer shafts can be swung, much like a dull axe. However, shovels are heavy, and over-swing is an issue. The blade could be used as a small, improvised shield, usefull when your opponent swings back. The blade is not sharp, but getting whacked with it would still freaking hurt. Use it until you find something more suitable. There are smaller shovels that can be used in much the same way as a hatchet, to the point where the US Army trains it's troops in it's combat use. Still, use it until you find something better.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Crowbar/Prybars:
A tool that is the subject of much debate (though not as much as the chainsaw) over it's use as a weapon. The crowbar could function as a simple club, but is made more deadly by it sharp-hooked front. Most are made out of carbon steel, and are a bit hefty. It's use wouldn't be much different from any other blunt melee weapon. Watch for over-swing.
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Brush-Axe:
Also known as a "Bush-Axe", "Kaiser Blade" or "Sling-Blade", it's one of my personal favorite weapons. Very similar to an axe in design, with the addition of a hooked head. It almost begs to you to chop something into tiny bits. The same dynamics that apply to an axe, can be applied here. The unique head (surprisingly similar in design to some of Ancient China's polearms) could be utilized for quick, limb amputation, or impalement of your enemies. However, this weapon is just as, if not more hefty than an axe. Make your swing count, and follow through if you miss.
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Pickaxe:
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Spade:
A garden spade is a tool similar to a shovel, but the blade is completely flat. Like the shovel, the spade can be made of a variety of materials, but it designed to be durable and to be able to withstand a good beating. The spade is not a sharp tool, but rather a narrow blade.
With a steel file, the blade of a spade can easily be honed very sharply. This can then be weilded as an effective weapon with reasonable reach. It is notable for it's capacity to crush facial bone and severe vertebrates.
In some limited situations, this weapon can also serve as an interior-entry tool.
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Screwdriver:
Commonly disregarded, the screwdriver is perhaps one of the most effective and common weapons there are against an undead creature. Screwdrivers are varied greatly. Many different types of heads, handles, lengths and materials. They are very common and can be found almost anywhere from private residences to office buildings to commercial districts. They are also incredibly durable and when the proper variation is chosen to use as a weapon, it will be virtually indestructible.
A screwdriver is most effective when used to stab into the eye socket, the nasal cavity, the ear canal, the temple or the neck. Is it not recommended, but the screwdriver also has the potential to be jammed through the skull, although this would require an incredibly strong blow. The obvious limitation of the screwdriver is it's reach.
ScrewdriversCommon havescrewdrivers acan also tendencybe filed down into more-effective weapons, to bend,mimic which coulddevices makesuch aas verythe badscratch situationawl or the ice pick; into long straight spikes with little resistance to a stabbing motion.
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Tire Iron:
Although some kinds are fairly unwieldy as a weapon, they are all fairly heavy and very hard. Not the greatest weapon, but you've a better chance cracking a zombie's head with this than your bare hands. Also useful if you have a vehicle with a flat tire.
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Pipe/Monkey Wrench:
The pipe/monkey wrench may not be your first choice for a weapon, but this hunk of steel is quite effective in close-quarters combat. If used correctly, it has the capability to break bone and crush skull with generally less effort, making it an effective bludgeon. Its variety in sizes ranging from smaller single-hand versions, to larger sledge-hammer sized versions make it one of the more difficult tools to judge. Its uses as a weapon vary as much as it does in size.
As good a weapon as the pipe/monkey wrench is, it's practical applications must not be overlooked. It can be used in the place of any of a large collection of wrenches, loostening nuts, bolts, and pipes of a wide variety. This makes it an ideal tool when salvaging parts from machinery and certain kinds of constructions...
Overall, the pipe wrench is very useful, and you might want to hold onto it even if you don't plan to use it for zombie killing...
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Wood Plank:
Though it isn't exactly the most effective weapon to finish off a zombie, with no other weapon in sight a plank's bashing capabilities make for a fine improvised weapon. Nails or bolts embedded into one side can increase the damage dealt, but also increase the chance that your plank will get stuck in a zombie's head at the worst possible moment. .
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Meat Cleaver:
It has good flesh chopping power. However, its short reach limits its use and the typical kitchen cleaver doesn't have nearly enough power to break bone. Meat cleavers are best left to the kitchen.
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Halberd:
The Halberd is a long wooden staff topped by a unique weapon-head; A several-inch axe blade with sharpened hook on the opposite side with a spike on the top. The halbred combines a number of medieval melee weapons into one device, it has all the abilities of a spear, a battle ax and a war hammer.
The staff is usually very long ranging from approximately three feet (in which it is called a "Poleaxe") to aproximately six feet. The head of the axe is usually composed of steel or bronze and is very hefty.
The Halberd can be used in several different ways, each requireing more training and competence to weild safely and effectively. Using the halbred in a spear-type fashion is fairly simple and straight forward. The spike can be used to puncture the skull cavity or to keep a zombie at bay.
The large axe-like blade can be used to chop and sever. Using the halbred like this requires a fair bit of practice. As with many of the long-handle melee weapons, this tool can easily cause the user to loose their balance and become exposed to a counter attack. The hook side of the blade can also be used in a similar capacity, with intention to peirce not to sever.
The length of the halbred limits it's effectiveness in a confined space and is best not used in one. This weapon is primarily designed to fend of opponents in a exterior evnironment. When used in a large organized group, halbreds can be very effective in dispatching a medium group of slow-moving zombies.
Real battle-ready halberds are a rarity. With most medieval-era melee weapons, this is a type of device you will likely only find in the possession of a collector.
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Katana:
A
single-edged blade favored by samurai. It can sever limbs or even decapitate a zombie, but remember that a decapitated head can still bite. A katana is also strong and sharp enough to slice a bullet in half. This would be much better than a machete because it is longer and stronger. BEWARE: Most of the katanas you find (yes, even the "battle ready" ones) are for display only, and will shatter when put to any strenuous - not good when the blade is all that stands between you and a horrid eternity as the living dead. Do your homework before buying. Look for blades made for tameshigiri (cutting) work, as they should easily be able to deal with rotting bone and flesh!
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Machetes are widely available; carbon-steel rated machetes are common implements in western hardware stores or military surplus.
To be use effectively as a weapon, especially in confined environment, one should be thoroughly experienced and trained with the tool's function. It is not uncommon for an unexperienced use to wield the blade inappropriately, causing it to shear off a surface and strike themselves. In the event of combat with a zombie, this type of injury would almost certainly be fatal or lead to direct exposure to infection.
The machete blade is no intended for stabbing motions, and is not appropriate to be use in such a way. The device is meant for slashing and cutting and will bend appropriately. It has been known to penetrate human skull, although it much more effective at remove of limbs and decapitation. The risk of getting a machete blade stuck is fairly low-risk do the blades slim profile and lack of serration.
There is a variant of this weapon made in a kukhri design. The extra weight on the end allows for more damage, but makes it harder to control.
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Note: A bayonett is simply a rifle spear.
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Sword:
Si
mple and effective, but if it gets stuck in a zombie, it can be a bit of a pain. Use when against two or less adversaries is advisable. As with katanas, even the "battle ready" sword are most of the time fake, ineffective and will break.
The solution: do your homework ahead of time. There are plenty of genuine combat-ready blades available, but you need to sift through the ones that will leave you drooling for brains to find them.
Expect to spend several hundred dollars, go to blade forums to do some checking on the blade you are considering, look for reputable manufacturers/smiths.
Significant practice is essential to wield a sword effectively against an undead foe. Becoming an experienced sword user is a long-term endevour and is not something a rookie should attempt to do.
Cold Steel makes a very sturdy line of swords and is a recommended brand.
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Bayonet:
This thing never runs out of ammo! Fixed on the end of a decent gun, the two can prove to be a lifesaving combination. A quick jab into a zombie's face can provide you with enough distance to get away. Also useful a knife, if you have the rifle to go with take this instead of a normal knife. Again, not a commonly obtained item, and not legal for civilian use in all states. However, in most states this law is applied as "Installed/Afixed", meaning simple possesion is not an issue; Simply leave it in the gun case (including fold-out versions) until it is 'required.'
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Scratch Awl:
A scratch awl is a marking tool used in fine carpentry and is a common implement of most woodworkers. It is composed of a small steel spike about 6 to 8 " long and thin in diameter. This is a tool used to make written impression on soft lumber. It has a small circular handle, designed to be held flat against the palm.
When used as a weapon, the scratch awl can rival the Trench Spike in terms of efficiency in skull penetration. The obvious limitation of this weapon is it very short reach. This make a great backup weapon for enclose spaces but is not recommended as a primary weapon, especially when engaging multiple foes.
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Ice Pick:
Ice Picks were common household implements up until the mid 1940's when iceboxes were casually replaced with compression refrigeration units and the break of ice blocks was no longer required. Similar in appearance to a screwdriver, with a long blade and thick handle, it also shares a resemblance with the scratch awl.
The blade is an elongated steel spike designed for puncture and width drawl. Much like the scratch awl, the reach is a vital limitation of this device.
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Basically a crude bludgeon, the shillalagh was used in rural Ireland, due to the English not banning its use as a walking stick. Not a good choice, but has some merit.some of these have a knots sticking out and are also very strong compared to other types of wood even against a baseball bat.
This weapon should be used primarily for immediate self-defence. If you have a better option, use it.
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Baseball Bat:
This bludgeon, perhaps more so then any other of its like, has more variations in quality and use- And of all the weapons presented here, the baseball bat is the most common and easy to acquire. Though it generally lacks a one-hit kill ability, general applications such as prying doors or hammering a nail, or anything such as a ready-made sheath, belt loop or folding ability, and all those other fancy features, the baseball bat is the best of the weaps presented. When using a bat, try aiming for the skull, 1½ to 2 inches forward of and in line with the top the ear (the temple). If this fails, you will likely smash the jaw, making biting impossible- Break the jaw, break the skin job. And one can nail a bunch of spikes into it, turning it into a wicked club.
One significant drawback to the use of a baseball bat is the fact that it is designed to transfer energy directly along it's length. This means that when a combatant strikes a zombie's skull, the vibration of the impacted is direct into the user's arms and shoulder. When used repeatedly, this can lead to injury and discomfort.
Note: The baseball bat is long and can be considered useless if in a confined space. As with all blunt weapons, it needs room to swing before it can go from harmless to lethal.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The drawback of the mace is the close proximity required to be of any use. It is also possible to lodge the flanges' in an animated corpse or not so animated objects around you. Its wooden handle is also vulnerable to damage. Hardening/tempering the wood and leather bindings should help a great deal. The mace also requires room to swing, with extremely close quarters proving counterproductive. Lastly, other than a weapon the mace is of no use to a survivor trying to economize on weight and space, as it could very well become ten pounds of dead weight. Make sure that the mace you purchase is legitimate because most maces for sale are NOT 'battle-ready' and the head of the mace could become detached from a heavy blow, leaving you with a stick and an angry zombie. Bad situation.
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Indian War Club:
In battle, a dedicated blow from the ball of the club could easily break a limb or crush a skull like a bat going through a watermelon. For added dynamism, the ball is spiked with a small iron stub. Cold Steel makes a version that is about two feet long, weighs less than two pounds and is molded out of black polypropylene which is practically unbreakable. Essentially a baseball bat but with an end weight and, in the example shown here, a penetrating knob at the impact point.
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Bokken/Bokuto:
A hardwood bludgeon shaped like a katana. Solid hits can bruise and break bones. Not recommended if you haven't trained at least a little with Japanese swords. Unless you plan on hitting trees like a madman, it should hold up in battle. These can usually be ordered on the Internet for cheap or found in random China Towns. Cold Steel makes one that is very strong, shown to break the boards of a wooden pallet with no damage to the bokken. However, if your even just an amateur with swords and think you can grab on and run, don't. In a fight with the undead this weapon will break and splinter, becoming useless and you becoming dead faster.
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Wooden Broom Handle:
Fairly plentiful and easy to get/construct, the wooden broom handle makes a very nice walking stick, good for those long hiking trips through the zombie-infested forest. It might not have been your first choice for a weapon, but when you find yourself face-to-face with a zombie, you will probably use whatever is in your hand at the time. Although not especially lethal in the hands of a novice, it can still do some spetty serious damage.
The wooden broom handle is a self-defence weapon, used to push/hit back attacking zombies and to knock them off ballance. This allows you some time (a few seconds) to draw your weapon of choice (assuming you brought one into the zombie-infested forest), or escape. If you are fairly experienced in the use of the wooden broom stick, you should already know that ones made of especially tough wood can snap bone and zombie spine. This can disable a zombie temporarily or even permanently if the blow to the neck was hard enough to sever any nerve system connections.
Also, if you have quite a bit of time on your hands, you might be able to fashion an effective short-spear for use against... whatever you can use a spear against...
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Metal Pipe:
By far the most varied in length, width, weight, shape, and composition, the metal pipe is an improvised weapon at best, and totally useless at worst. Many being either too big and heavy(6 inch diameter+) or too small and light(very bendable) to be of much use, not just any pipe you can find is going to be good for zombie bashing. That's why you need to be careful, and try to find the pipe that's right for you.
The suggested measurements for metal pipes are: a diameter between 1 1/4 inches to 2 1/2 inches, a thick 'wall' so it won't bend or dent too easily, and a length longer then 1 foot but short enough that it's not too long(unwieldy). The measurements can vary, but the important thing is that you should try to find a pipe that fits you best. If it's too long, you can always cut it. If the diameter is too big/small for you, change accordingly.
Overall, the metal pipe can be a fairly effective zombie bashing tool, but it can also not be. As said before, metal pipes vary in quality and capability, so it is not suggested you rely on one as a weapon until you are sure the pipe is of zombie-bashing quality. The ideal metal pipe will have the capability to break bone and spine, and otherwise disable a zombie temporarily or permanently. A pipe in the hands of a capable user is able to do a lot of damage.
Cutting off one end of the pipe at an angle can create a rather devastating point that can be used for stabbing/piercing and such.
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The Hokey Stick:
The Hokey stick is relatively common. They are made from wood, fiber glass, plastic, and a few other materials. Strength varies between sticks, but a good hokey stick is more then capable of breaking a zombie's neck, and inflicting severe trauma to an unprotected head. (The same goes for the field hokey sticks.)
When you are not fighting zombies, it can be be used for what it was meant to be used for. Hokey can be a great way to take your mind off of zombies if you find yourself with nothing to do, in a safe place, and maybe an empty soda can or random ball...
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Kitchen Knife:
In a moment of panic, one might reach for an available common kitchen knife to defend themselves. Most kitchen knives are made from cold-rolled stainless steel and are very flimsy, with either a plastic or hardwood handle.
A kitchen knife will damage an opponent will likely kill them. However, chest blows may casue the blade to become stuck, and possibly break. A questionably effective altertnative is to insert it into the eye socket. Alternatively, if you have a blade long enough, you can puncture under the chin, through the thin bone and cartilage of the upper-mouth, through the sinuses into the brain cavity.
The reach of this weapon is extremely limited; Besides the inherant dangers of using ANY edged weap (getting skin job blood on you and the proximity nessesary, which will allow them to fight BACK, and at which range they will ussually WIN), these blades or generally of excellent quality- For preparing dinner. To defend yourself, however, you may wish to locate a more practicle weap soonest possible.
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It is relatively light, rarely exceeding 6 pounds (much like medieval war hammers of the past, they are about the same weight). This is very good when it comes to swinging it around all day. An effective weapon, good for smashing zombie skull.
The length of its short, wooden handle means you will have to get in pretty close, usually within the reach of a zombie hug. The hammer requites quite a bit of momentum to do any damage, leaving you with the problem of not being able to use it effectively in a confined space(in a crowd, or under a vehicle or something). Also, you might have been using this thing for a long time slamming nails, locks, stuff... the wooden handle might snap without warning leaving you without a weapon. And last, if you hit a zombie with the sharp fork on the back of the hammer, it might get stuck, and leave you with no weapon. Try to get to a relatively open space allowing you room to swing and move about.
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Pool Cue:
A long fragile stick that would be better used for what it is meant for: playing pool. However, if you are forced to use one to defend yourself, quickly break it off and use it as an improvised spear.
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Soda/Beer Bottles:
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The Cast-Iron Frying Pan:
The Cast-Iron frying pan... Big, heavy, and unwieldy, this tool is best used for cooking and not zombie killing. Although, if you are ever caught off-guard in the kitchen and have nothing else, it is better then nothing. It's weight is more then enough to break bone with a direct hit, and has plenty of potential energy to smash zombie skull.
Warning: Cast iron pans (if not maintained) are breeding grounds for bacteria and fungus (cast iron has millions of little pores on the surface, making it difficult to wash thouroughly). So, if you ever use it on a zombie, it is best that you not use it for cooking again ever. Also, they're pretty heavy.
Note: Also makes a delicious corn bread.
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The Humble Rock:
Well, if you have nothing better to use, best look for one of these. They can be quite plentiful and versatile, good for bashing zombie skull. If you are good, however, you might be able to throw a sizable rock at a zombie, and actually kill it. Usually found laying about on the ground, and easy to find if you know where to look.
Warning: Most rocks are better left sitting on the ground. They should only be used if you have absolutely no better alternative other than your fists.
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The Pitch/Spading Fork:
Known best as the pitch fork, it is an intimidating weapon, but not that effective when attacking zombies. As it is very good at what it does, it was never intended to be used as a weapon. The pitchfork has relatively sharp, yet skinny prongs, varying in number from two to some times 10. They can easily be bent out of shape during combat, but can easily be fixed with a bit of elbow grease.
A thrusting weapon, it can be used to aim for the eye socket and spinal chord. Although, unless you have very good aim, odds are you will achieve non-lethal blows, and get it stuck in the zombie. This makes it a less-then ideal weapon to kill zombies with.
If you, however, aim for the chest and rib cage (or any other large part of the body), you can keep the zombie in question at a distance, allowing you to hold it off until you let go, or it backs off. In 1 on 1 engagements, this can be an advantage, being able to manipulate the zombie and possible push it into a pit, or down onto it's back or against a wall. Although, if you are outnumbered, it is advised you look for something else.
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The Bow/Steel Rake:
Comming in various shapes, sizes and weights, the steel rake is a strong and useful tool that can be used for anything from from farming, to sift through rubble, and turning stuff over in the fire. It may not be your first choice as a weapon, but it can do quite a bit of damage if used correctly (this goes double for the industrial strength rakes). The solid steel head can be an effective bludgeon, and the wide flat end is good for pushing a zombie back.
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The Golf Club:
The golf club can be a dangerous weapon in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. The heavy metal head on the end can act as the head of a club, concentrating a lot of energy into one area, and the long metal handle pretty strong.
The only real downside is that many tend to bend if you hit something very hard, and after a few swings, it might not be that good of a weapon.
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Snowboard:
A very capable weapon in a pinch. You can find it in may sports stores and Is made from laminated fiberglass around wood. The board can (if large enough) can be used as a long blunt weapon with a good grip of one of the footholds. If you have some a hammer and nails around the house you could probably hammer some nails into the foothold side of the board to start allowing you to give the zombies a few holes in its head.
The weapon could possibly be used as a small shield if used properly, but this is just an idea.
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Paratech Hooligan Tools:
The Hooligan Tool is one of the world´s most popular forcible entry tools. These heavy-duty tools were designed to pound, puncture, pry, twist, and cut all types of barriers encountered by emergency service personnel.The head and claw are forged from high alloy steel, heat treated for maximum strength, then fitted to a 1” (2.5 cm) stress proof bar. The bar has machine grooved non-slip grips. The Hooligan Tool features a newly designed claw that is gently curved for maximum prying leverage. The claw opening is parallel and fits over locks, hasps and many door bars. It can also be used as a nail puller and a gas shut off during emergencies. The new “Highway Hooligan Tool” features a new metal cutting claw with a machine sharpened metal cutter that uses the can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.
Standard Claw: Parallel opening for gas valve shutoffs, locks and hasps. Machine sharpened claws. Recessed nail puller. Claw radius for prying leverage. Grip-machine grooved non-slip grips.
Metal Cutting Claw: Combines the capability of prying and metal cutting. Machine sharpened metal cutter uses can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.
Bright Chrome Finish: The standard high gloss chrome plated finish is available for good looks and easy maintenance.
Long Pike: Sharp, tapered and gently curved to fit a lock or latch.
Long Duckbill: smooth incline to force windows and interior doors.
Recommended Users: Fire departments, law enforcement agencies, rescue squads, hazmat teams, plant/refinery maintenance crews, military and public utilities, and post-skin job uprising salvers.
Application: Though best used as designed, a TOOL for forcing entry, a Hooligan could be used if one were suddenly attacked by a skin job while securing gas/forcing a window/etc. One whack from this, if you’re strong enough to actually use it as intended, should split their head open like a cantaloupe. However, it is still best employed as designed, like all weapons of opportunity.
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If it all goes totally south, knock them down, then JUMP ON TOP OF THEM; Use your body weight to hold them down and use an weapon, even a weaponof opportunity, to kill the skin job.
WARNING: In a knock-down, drag out, street brawl with a skin job YOU WILL LOSE EACH AND EVERY TIME unless you escape. The skin job is stronger, faster, and will kill you if you’re lucky. DO NOT GO FU ON A SKIN JOB. You will die. Or worse
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Stick:
An extremely simple weapon, the stick is easy to use, plentiful in rural areas or city parks and can be used as an improvised bludgeon. Unfortunately, it has very little killing power and breaks easily. Can also be turned into a torch with a rag and some alcohol. The best use of this is to not hit or try to kill the zombie, but better to simply knock it out of the way. Although this may seem stupid to some people, that push will buy you precious seconds to get away.
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ASP Expandable Baton:
The ASP baton may very well be THE impact weapon, as it is the lightest and most compact. It might not look like much but it can deliver bone crushing force with ease. Its compact design allows for it to be used in tight spaces such as a dark alley. The ASP can also be retracted and stored for ready use when your firearm runs dry.
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Cane:
More appropriate to a late’70’s/early ‘80’s pimp than a TRUE survivor of the rise of the skin jobs, this thing can nevertheless be used a bludgeon in a pinch. Do not use for long periods of time, as it will probably break. Also with the right one, you can look like a pimp while bashing zombie skulls- If that's what you want to look like.
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Throwing Stars:
This weapon really is quite useless- It could be deadly if aimed at the right places, but the chances of hitting those spots are essentially nill. It is mostly a harassment weapon, intending to get an enemy to duck or break off their pursuit (even an instant can buy you time to escape). However, if shoved with enough force, towards the brain, up through the jaw, it could kill. Individual throwing stars are very light and won't weigh you down much, but a large number of them can. Although they say "Throwing Star", do not actually throw them. You will not have the strength nor the accuracy to deliver a killing blow. As stated above, us as a melee weapon, with enough force you can essentially stab it upwards from under the jaw and hope to penetrate the brain. For a more practical use, use to distract them by throwing in the general diurection of an enemy, casuing them to pause for a second.
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T.A.S.E.R.:
T.
A.S.E.R. (more commonly Taser, also TaZer) stands for “Thomas A. Swift’s Electric Rifle” and is a self defense weapon that stuns a attacker by electrocuting them, causing excruciating pain. Though skin jobs are thought not to feel pain, a very high voltage version may still be at least limitedly effective, especially if aimed for the head. Taser International is the main producer, and owner of the “Taser” brand-name copyright. The police and militry M-26 variant uses a sufficiently high voltage that compliance is automatic, as it supra-contracts the muscles, making pain irrelevant. Curled up in a ball like that, you can not even protect yourself, and there is no pain tolerance involved- You just drop to the ground and twitch around a bit.
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Mini- And Compact-Axe Sets:
These might look like something to use, but only as a last resort. The Mini-Axe set and the Compact Axe
These "tools" have cheap tubular handles that are designed to collapse to make them easier to carry. It also makes them likely to collapse in use and maybe just bend. Tools that I have seen like this might be useful in a garden, if it was smaller than 1x2 foot, anything larger would likely exceed their capability. All that said they are still better than nothing, as long as you remember that effectively you do have nothing.
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Brush-Axe:
Also known as a "Bush-Axe", "Kaiser Blade" or "Sling-Blade", it's one of my personal favorite weapons. Very similar to an axe in design, with the addition of a hooked head. It almost begs to you to chop something into tiny bits. The same dynamics that apply to an axe, can be applied here. The unique head (surprisingly similar in design to some of Ancient China's polearms) could be utilized for quick, limb amputation, or impalement of your enemies. However, this weapon is just as, if not more hefty than an axe. Make your swing count, and follow through if you miss.
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Pickaxe:
Pickaxes are fairly common landscaping implements and can be very handy at zombie disposal. There are several varieties and variations of the pickaxe, alternating between a long rectangular spike with one of the follow; either a horizontal spade-like head, or a vertical axe-like head. They also come in a variation of metal-types, 
handle materials and weights depending on intended use. Newer models are stainless steel with a fiberglass handle. These handles tend to be more flexible and more durable than the older wooden-handled models.
In almost any case, the pickaxe is a very handy and effective tool for engaging sparse groupings of zombies in an exterior or other wide open environment. This weapon is recommended for use in a group, because of it's short reach and relative heft. A strong but inaccurate swing can leave the user unbalanced and exposed to attack.
The Pickaxe is best used to dispatch slow moving zombies, or zombies which have been knocked to the ground. The spike and blade portion are both extremely effective at puncturing the brain cavity. The spike-end is designed especially not to become stuck in tough abrasive materials such a rock or (in this case) cranium.
The Pickaxe can also be used an an entry tool in some circumstances, both the blade and spike and designed for prying and swinging.
handle materials and weights depending on intended use. Newer models are stainless steel with a fiberglass handle. These handles tend to be more flexible and more durable than the older wooden-handled models.In almost any case, the pickaxe is a very handy and effective tool for engaging sparse groupings of zombies in an exterior or other wide open environment. This weapon is recommended for use in a group, because of it's short reach and relative heft. A strong but inaccurate swing can leave the user unbalanced and exposed to attack.
The Pickaxe is best used to dispatch slow moving zombies, or zombies which have been knocked to the ground. The spike and blade portion are both extremely effective at puncturing the brain cavity. The spike-end is designed especially not to become stuck in tough abrasive materials such a rock or (in this case) cranium.
The Pickaxe can also be used an an entry tool in some circumstances, both the blade and spike and designed for prying and swinging.
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Spade:
A garden spade is a tool similar to a shovel, but the blade is completely flat. Like the shovel, the spade can be made of a variety of materials, but it designed to be durable and to be able to withstand a good beating. The spade is not a sharp tool, but rather a narrow blade.With a steel file, the blade of a spade can easily be honed very sharply. This can then be weilded as an effective weapon with reasonable reach. It is notable for it's capacity to crush facial bone and severe vertebrates.
In some limited situations, this weapon can also serve as an interior-entry tool.
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Screwdriver:
Commonly disregarded, the screwdriver is perhaps one of the most effective and common weapons there are against an undead creature. Screwdrivers are varied greatly. Many different types of heads, handles, lengths and materials. They are very common and can be found almost anywhere from private residences to office buildings to commercial districts. They are also incredibly durable and when the proper variation is chosen to use as a weapon, it will be virtually indestructible.A screwdriver is most effective when used to stab into the eye socket, the nasal cavity, the ear canal, the temple or the neck. Is it not recommended, but the screwdriver also has the potential to be jammed through the skull, although this would require an incredibly strong blow. The obvious limitation of the screwdriver is it's reach.
ScrewdriversCommon havescrewdrivers acan also tendencybe filed down into more-effective weapons, to bend,mimic which coulddevices makesuch aas verythe badscratch situationawl or the ice pick; into long straight spikes with little resistance to a stabbing motion.
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Tire Iron:Although some kinds are fairly unwieldy as a weapon, they are all fairly heavy and very hard. Not the greatest weapon, but you've a better chance cracking a zombie's head with this than your bare hands. Also useful if you have a vehicle with a flat tire.
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Pipe/Monkey Wrench:
The pipe/monkey wrench may not be your first choice for a weapon, but this hunk of steel is quite effective in close-quarters combat. If used correctly, it has the capability to break bone and crush skull with generally less effort, making it an effective bludgeon. Its variety in sizes ranging from smaller single-hand versions, to larger sledge-hammer sized versions make it one of the more difficult tools to judge. Its uses as a weapon vary as much as it does in size.As good a weapon as the pipe/monkey wrench is, it's practical applications must not be overlooked. It can be used in the place of any of a large collection of wrenches, loostening nuts, bolts, and pipes of a wide variety. This makes it an ideal tool when salvaging parts from machinery and certain kinds of constructions...
Overall, the pipe wrench is very useful, and you might want to hold onto it even if you don't plan to use it for zombie killing...
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Wood Plank:
Though it isn't exactly the most effective weapon to finish off a zombie, with no other weapon in sight a plank's bashing capabilities make for a fine improvised weapon. Nails or bolts embedded into one side can increase the damage dealt, but also increase the chance that your plank will get stuck in a zombie's head at the worst possible moment. .
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Bladed Weapons
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Meat Cleaver:
It has good flesh chopping power. However, its short reach limits its use and the typical kitchen cleaver doesn't have nearly enough power to break bone. Meat cleavers are best left to the kitchen.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Halberd:
The Halberd is a long wooden staff topped by a unique weapon-head; A several-inch axe blade with sharpened hook on the opposite side with a spike on the top. The halbred combines a number of medieval melee weapons into one device, it has all the abilities of a spear, a battle ax and a war hammer.
The staff is usually very long ranging from approximately three feet (in which it is called a "Poleaxe") to aproximately six feet. The head of the axe is usually composed of steel or bronze and is very hefty.
The Halberd can be used in several different ways, each requireing more training and competence to weild safely and effectively. Using the halbred in a spear-type fashion is fairly simple and straight forward. The spike can be used to puncture the skull cavity or to keep a zombie at bay.
The large axe-like blade can be used to chop and sever. Using the halbred like this requires a fair bit of practice. As with many of the long-handle melee weapons, this tool can easily cause the user to loose their balance and become exposed to a counter attack. The hook side of the blade can also be used in a similar capacity, with intention to peirce not to sever.
The length of the halbred limits it's effectiveness in a confined space and is best not used in one. This weapon is primarily designed to fend of opponents in a exterior evnironment. When used in a large organized group, halbreds can be very effective in dispatching a medium group of slow-moving zombies.
Real battle-ready halberds are a rarity. With most medieval-era melee weapons, this is a type of device you will likely only find in the possession of a collector.
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Hatchet/Tomahawk:
A useful weapon for close encounters, provided one doesn't attempt anything flashy or foolish. Don't expect any skull breaking with this, or to actually sever a neck on your first swing. Axes as a whole aren't meant for ONE swing.. they're meant to CHOP. That means be prepared to take another swing or three at the zombies neck! Do not, do not, *DO NOT EVER* bank on killing a Zed with the first swing! However, one could actually circumvent severing the head proper if they go for the back of the neck. Even if your sole purpose is to kill the zombie(s), as opposed to escape, it is a simple matter involving your foot and gravity once the spinal column is severed. But, do remember, this is a close range weapon.. very close. So if one can avoid engaging the zombie at all, do so.
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A useful weapon for close encounters, provided one doesn't attempt anything flashy or foolish. Don't expect any skull breaking with this, or to actually sever a neck on your first swing. Axes as a whole aren't meant for ONE swing.. they're meant to CHOP. That means be prepared to take another swing or three at the zombies neck! Do not, do not, *DO NOT EVER* bank on killing a Zed with the first swing! However, one could actually circumvent severing the head proper if they go for the back of the neck. Even if your sole purpose is to kill the zombie(s), as opposed to escape, it is a simple matter involving your foot and gravity once the spinal column is severed. But, do remember, this is a close range weapon.. very close. So if one can avoid engaging the zombie at all, do so.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Folding Knife:
A very useful tool. Lightweight, multipurpose and easily stowed. This is a very close range weapon, not recommended for killing zombies due to its short reach and generally low penetration of the skull, unless stabbed into the bottom of the jaw to sever the spine, temple, or eye. This is not suggested for accuracy and control reasons, not to mention the fact that you have to get real close and personal. A last-ditch weapon against zombies in any case, this really SHOULD be avoided and used exclusively as a tool.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A very useful tool. Lightweight, multipurpose and easily stowed. This is a very close range weapon, not recommended for killing zombies due to its short reach and generally low penetration of the skull, unless stabbed into the bottom of the jaw to sever the spine, temple, or eye. This is not suggested for accuracy and control reasons, not to mention the fact that you have to get real close and personal. A last-ditch weapon against zombies in any case, this really SHOULD be avoided and used exclusively as a tool.Katana:
single-edged blade favored by samurai. It can sever limbs or even decapitate a zombie, but remember that a decapitated head can still bite. A katana is also strong and sharp enough to slice a bullet in half. This would be much better than a machete because it is longer and stronger. BEWARE: Most of the katanas you find (yes, even the "battle ready" ones) are for display only, and will shatter when put to any strenuous - not good when the blade is all that stands between you and a horrid eternity as the living dead. Do your homework before buying. Look for blades made for tameshigiri (cutting) work, as they should easily be able to deal with rotting bone and flesh! How To Use A Katana, Part I: Basic Cuts
This is a video I created, on the basic cuts that may be performed utilizing a Katana. TURN UP THE SOUND TO HEAR THE BLADE PARTING THE AIR. As I have stated in the video, this requires considerable experience and skill. Do not attempt to cut things up until you have reached a high level of proficiency. Additionally, as said before, get a blade made for Tameshigiri. I also like the Cold Steel Imperial series. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Machete:
Relatively inexpensive, reliable, possesses a decent reach (depending on blade length) and is light enough for those on the go, making for an excellent companion. In addition to its exciting, combative abilities, the tool is also excellent at trail and brush clearing.
Relatively inexpensive, reliable, possesses a decent reach (depending on blade length) and is light enough for those on the go, making for an excellent companion. In addition to its exciting, combative abilities, the tool is also excellent at trail and brush clearing.Machetes are widely available; carbon-steel rated machetes are common implements in western hardware stores or military surplus.
To be use effectively as a weapon, especially in confined environment, one should be thoroughly experienced and trained with the tool's function. It is not uncommon for an unexperienced use to wield the blade inappropriately, causing it to shear off a surface and strike themselves. In the event of combat with a zombie, this type of injury would almost certainly be fatal or lead to direct exposure to infection.
The machete blade is no intended for stabbing motions, and is not appropriate to be use in such a way. The device is meant for slashing and cutting and will bend appropriately. It has been known to penetrate human skull, although it much more effective at remove of limbs and decapitation. The risk of getting a machete blade stuck is fairly low-risk do the blades slim profile and lack of serration.
There is a variant of this weapon made in a kukhri design. The extra weight on the end allows for more damage, but makes it harder to control.
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Spear:
F
airly straightforward. A long stick with a sharp piece of metal or rock on the end, or even just one end sharpened to a point. To use it you just jab the pointy end into a zombie skull, through the eye or temple, or if you can muster the strength through another part of the skull and into the brain. Can also be used to keep a zombie at a distance. Note: May get stuck. Training and/or practice recommended before use.
The spear is known for it versatility and effectiveness as a potential defense weapon. Creating a significant distant between the combatant and the zombie, a buffer zone of safety can be created; an opportunity for the combatant to react to a mistake. This is an attribute that not many melee weapons share.
Spears are not common in any regard and will only be found in museums, military surpluses or specialty shops. Spears can be fashioned fairly simply out of everyday materials and this format can be the basis of a very effective last-minute weapon.
The value of the spear of a defensive weapon is priceless. It can be uses effectively to dispatch zombies from behind a barricade or other obstacle.
F
airly straightforward. A long stick with a sharp piece of metal or rock on the end, or even just one end sharpened to a point. To use it you just jab the pointy end into a zombie skull, through the eye or temple, or if you can muster the strength through another part of the skull and into the brain. Can also be used to keep a zombie at a distance. Note: May get stuck. Training and/or practice recommended before use.The spear is known for it versatility and effectiveness as a potential defense weapon. Creating a significant distant between the combatant and the zombie, a buffer zone of safety can be created; an opportunity for the combatant to react to a mistake. This is an attribute that not many melee weapons share.
Spears are not common in any regard and will only be found in museums, military surpluses or specialty shops. Spears can be fashioned fairly simply out of everyday materials and this format can be the basis of a very effective last-minute weapon.
The value of the spear of a defensive weapon is priceless. It can be uses effectively to dispatch zombies from behind a barricade or other obstacle.
Note: A bayonett is simply a rifle spear.
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Sword:
Si
mple and effective, but if it gets stuck in a zombie, it can be a bit of a pain. Use when against two or less adversaries is advisable. As with katanas, even the "battle ready" sword are most of the time fake, ineffective and will break.The solution: do your homework ahead of time. There are plenty of genuine combat-ready blades available, but you need to sift through the ones that will leave you drooling for brains to find them.
Expect to spend several hundred dollars, go to blade forums to do some checking on the blade you are considering, look for reputable manufacturers/smiths.
Significant practice is essential to wield a sword effectively against an undead foe. Becoming an experienced sword user is a long-term endevour and is not something a rookie should attempt to do.
Cold Steel makes a very sturdy line of swords and is a recommended brand.
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Bayonet:
This thing never runs out of ammo! Fixed on the end of a decent gun, the two can prove to be a lifesaving combination. A quick jab into a zombie's face can provide you with enough distance to get away. Also useful a knife, if you have the rifle to go with take this instead of a normal knife. Again, not a commonly obtained item, and not legal for civilian use in all states. However, in most states this law is applied as "Installed/Afixed", meaning simple possesion is not an issue; Simply leave it in the gun case (including fold-out versions) until it is 'required.'
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Trench Knife:
Used in World War One, these were made for rough hand-to-hand combat. The blade can be swung into a zombie's skull, and the design usually allows for easy removal from the zombie. This weapon does require the physical strength to put the blade through the skull and the accuracy to place it there. This is also not a commonly found weapon, and those that are found may not be in combat condition. As with the knife, stabbing directly into the skull is impractical. A stab to the lower jaw up into the brain would be better. When gripping the knife in the finger holes it can be used as brass knuckles with spikes if a zombie surprises you and you don't have time to stab or the tip breaks.
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Used in World War One, these were made for rough hand-to-hand combat. The blade can be swung into a zombie's skull, and the design usually allows for easy removal from the zombie. This weapon does require the physical strength to put the blade through the skull and the accuracy to place it there. This is also not a commonly found weapon, and those that are found may not be in combat condition. As with the knife, stabbing directly into the skull is impractical. A stab to the lower jaw up into the brain would be better. When gripping the knife in the finger holes it can be used as brass knuckles with spikes if a zombie surprises you and you don't have time to stab or the tip breaks.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kukri:
The Kukri is a traditional Nepalese or Indian weapon, and are used in ceremonies/religious rites, and is also used for many practical applications (clearing brush, choping down small trees, spliting small logs, etc). Pick one of the big ones with a two-foot blade. Weighting toward the end gives a harder hit and its curve gives a longer cut. The blade is built as a hybrid of a hatchet and a machete,it is not for cutting throats,but for chopping.you can get them from Cold Steel for around 15 dollars.
The Kukri is a traditional Nepalese or Indian weapon, and are used in ceremonies/religious rites, and is also used for many practical applications (clearing brush, choping down small trees, spliting small logs, etc). Pick one of the big ones with a two-foot blade. Weighting toward the end gives a harder hit and its curve gives a longer cut. The blade is built as a hybrid of a hatchet and a machete,it is not for cutting throats,but for chopping.you can get them from Cold Steel for around 15 dollars. Monk's Spade:
Although at first glance this may be seen as an impractical weapon, it is surprisingly effective. A 6-foot long staff with a flat bell-shaped blade on one end and an outward facing crescent blade on the other. The only disadvantages are the standard disadvantages of a long melee weapon, the difficulty of finding a real monk's spade and that extensive training is a must to utilize the full capabilities of the weapon.
Although at first glance this may be seen as an impractical weapon, it is surprisingly effective. A 6-foot long staff with a flat bell-shaped blade on one end and an outward facing crescent blade on the other. The only disadvantages are the standard disadvantages of a long melee weapon, the difficulty of finding a real monk's spade and that extensive training is a must to utilize the full capabilities of the weapon.
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Scythe:
This weapon may seem unwieldy and and not very useful but against waves of zombies, if you know what you are doing, the scythe could be one of the most valuable tools you have. Using one of these as a weapon takes training and hard work, and as a awkward close combat weapon it may not be the best choice to take into battle. Also, you may end up losing a limb or two or decapitating a group member if you are not careful. This is not a weapon you should use unless your on a farm or out in the country where your odds of encountering a zombie are smaller. Use in a city or enclosed area will easily lead to your demise.
This is, in essence, a weapon of opportunity. Grab and use until you find something better.
This weapon may seem unwieldy and and not very useful but against waves of zombies, if you know what you are doing, the scythe could be one of the most valuable tools you have. Using one of these as a weapon takes training and hard work, and as a awkward close combat weapon it may not be the best choice to take into battle. Also, you may end up losing a limb or two or decapitating a group member if you are not careful. This is not a weapon you should use unless your on a farm or out in the country where your odds of encountering a zombie are smaller. Use in a city or enclosed area will easily lead to your demise.This is, in essence, a weapon of opportunity. Grab and use until you find something better.
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Scratch Awl:
A scratch awl is a marking tool used in fine carpentry and is a common implement of most woodworkers. It is composed of a small steel spike about 6 to 8 " long and thin in diameter. This is a tool used to make written impression on soft lumber. It has a small circular handle, designed to be held flat against the palm.When used as a weapon, the scratch awl can rival the Trench Spike in terms of efficiency in skull penetration. The obvious limitation of this weapon is it very short reach. This make a great backup weapon for enclose spaces but is not recommended as a primary weapon, especially when engaging multiple foes.
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Ice Pick:
Ice Picks were common household implements up until the mid 1940's when iceboxes were casually replaced with compression refrigeration units and the break of ice blocks was no longer required. Similar in appearance to a screwdriver, with a long blade and thick handle, it also shares a resemblance with the scratch awl.The blade is an elongated steel spike designed for puncture and width drawl. Much like the scratch awl, the reach is a vital limitation of this device.
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Blunt Weapons
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Shillalagh: Basically a crude bludgeon, the shillalagh was used in rural Ireland, due to the English not banning its use as a walking stick. Not a good choice, but has some merit.some of these have a knots sticking out and are also very strong compared to other types of wood even against a baseball bat.This weapon should be used primarily for immediate self-defence. If you have a better option, use it.
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Baseball Bat:
This bludgeon, perhaps more so then any other of its like, has more variations in quality and use- And of all the weapons presented here, the baseball bat is the most common and easy to acquire. Though it generally lacks a one-hit kill ability, general applications such as prying doors or hammering a nail, or anything such as a ready-made sheath, belt loop or folding ability, and all those other fancy features, the baseball bat is the best of the weaps presented. When using a bat, try aiming for the skull, 1½ to 2 inches forward of and in line with the top the ear (the temple). If this fails, you will likely smash the jaw, making biting impossible- Break the jaw, break the skin job. And one can nail a bunch of spikes into it, turning it into a wicked club.One significant drawback to the use of a baseball bat is the fact that it is designed to transfer energy directly along it's length. This means that when a combatant strikes a zombie's skull, the vibration of the impacted is direct into the user's arms and shoulder. When used repeatedly, this can lead to injury and discomfort.
Note: The baseball bat is long and can be considered useless if in a confined space. As with all blunt weapons, it needs room to swing before it can go from harmless to lethal.
Flanged Mace:
Maces were some of the world's first weapon developed with the intention of killing human beings. A flanged mace is essentially an advanced club made of materials such as iron, steel, wood and leather. Usually an iron or steel head mounted on a wooden pole about two to three feet long with a leather wrapped handle and lanyard. The emphasis of the flanged mace is penetrating blunt force trauma, designed originally to deliver heavy blows to helmeted heads and armored torsos, bypassing the armor at point of contact by increasing PSI and lowering connecting surface area. Being an upgraded club, the flanged mace is weldable by all who have two working arms and hands, as no great skill is required to swing and connect the striking area to the intended target.
Maces were some of the world's first weapon developed with the intention of killing human beings. A flanged mace is essentially an advanced club made of materials such as iron, steel, wood and leather. Usually an iron or steel head mounted on a wooden pole about two to three feet long with a leather wrapped handle and lanyard. The emphasis of the flanged mace is penetrating blunt force trauma, designed originally to deliver heavy blows to helmeted heads and armored torsos, bypassing the armor at point of contact by increasing PSI and lowering connecting surface area. Being an upgraded club, the flanged mace is weldable by all who have two working arms and hands, as no great skill is required to swing and connect the striking area to the intended target. The drawback of the mace is the close proximity required to be of any use. It is also possible to lodge the flanges' in an animated corpse or not so animated objects around you. Its wooden handle is also vulnerable to damage. Hardening/tempering the wood and leather bindings should help a great deal. The mace also requires room to swing, with extremely close quarters proving counterproductive. Lastly, other than a weapon the mace is of no use to a survivor trying to economize on weight and space, as it could very well become ten pounds of dead weight. Make sure that the mace you purchase is legitimate because most maces for sale are NOT 'battle-ready' and the head of the mace could become detached from a heavy blow, leaving you with a stick and an angry zombie. Bad situation.
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Cricket Bat:
The ol' trusty cricket bat is useful for bashing skulls in and with enough force can smash a ribcage. Not too heavy and can be swung around with great speed if used properly. Basically it is a good all-round weapon but if used for too long could easily break.
Make sure you have an alternative weapon within reach to replace this one in the case it does break.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The ol' trusty cricket bat is useful for bashing skulls in and with enough force can smash a ribcage. Not too heavy and can be swung around with great speed if used properly. Basically it is a good all-round weapon but if used for too long could easily break.Make sure you have an alternative weapon within reach to replace this one in the case it does break.
Indian War Club:
In battle, a dedicated blow from the ball of the club could easily break a limb or crush a skull like a bat going through a watermelon. For added dynamism, the ball is spiked with a small iron stub. Cold Steel makes a version that is about two feet long, weighs less than two pounds and is molded out of black polypropylene which is practically unbreakable. Essentially a baseball bat but with an end weight and, in the example shown here, a penetrating knob at the impact point.
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Bokken/Bokuto:
A hardwood bludgeon shaped like a katana. Solid hits can bruise and break bones. Not recommended if you haven't trained at least a little with Japanese swords. Unless you plan on hitting trees like a madman, it should hold up in battle. These can usually be ordered on the Internet for cheap or found in random China Towns. Cold Steel makes one that is very strong, shown to break the boards of a wooden pallet with no damage to the bokken. However, if your even just an amateur with swords and think you can grab on and run, don't. In a fight with the undead this weapon will break and splinter, becoming useless and you becoming dead faster.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wooden Broom Handle:
Fairly plentiful and easy to get/construct, the wooden broom handle makes a very nice walking stick, good for those long hiking trips through the zombie-infested forest. It might not have been your first choice for a weapon, but when you find yourself face-to-face with a zombie, you will probably use whatever is in your hand at the time. Although not especially lethal in the hands of a novice, it can still do some spetty serious damage. The wooden broom handle is a self-defence weapon, used to push/hit back attacking zombies and to knock them off ballance. This allows you some time (a few seconds) to draw your weapon of choice (assuming you brought one into the zombie-infested forest), or escape. If you are fairly experienced in the use of the wooden broom stick, you should already know that ones made of especially tough wood can snap bone and zombie spine. This can disable a zombie temporarily or even permanently if the blow to the neck was hard enough to sever any nerve system connections.
Also, if you have quite a bit of time on your hands, you might be able to fashion an effective short-spear for use against... whatever you can use a spear against...
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Metal Pipe:
By far the most varied in length, width, weight, shape, and composition, the metal pipe is an improvised weapon at best, and totally useless at worst. Many being either too big and heavy(6 inch diameter+) or too small and light(very bendable) to be of much use, not just any pipe you can find is going to be good for zombie bashing. That's why you need to be careful, and try to find the pipe that's right for you.The suggested measurements for metal pipes are: a diameter between 1 1/4 inches to 2 1/2 inches, a thick 'wall' so it won't bend or dent too easily, and a length longer then 1 foot but short enough that it's not too long(unwieldy). The measurements can vary, but the important thing is that you should try to find a pipe that fits you best. If it's too long, you can always cut it. If the diameter is too big/small for you, change accordingly.
Overall, the metal pipe can be a fairly effective zombie bashing tool, but it can also not be. As said before, metal pipes vary in quality and capability, so it is not suggested you rely on one as a weapon until you are sure the pipe is of zombie-bashing quality. The ideal metal pipe will have the capability to break bone and spine, and otherwise disable a zombie temporarily or permanently. A pipe in the hands of a capable user is able to do a lot of damage.
Cutting off one end of the pipe at an angle can create a rather devastating point that can be used for stabbing/piercing and such.
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The Hokey Stick:
The Hokey stick is relatively common. They are made from wood, fiber glass, plastic, and a few other materials. Strength varies between sticks, but a good hokey stick is more then capable of breaking a zombie's neck, and inflicting severe trauma to an unprotected head. (The same goes for the field hokey sticks.)
When you are not fighting zombies, it can be be used for what it was meant to be used for. Hokey can be a great way to take your mind off of zombies if you find yourself with nothing to do, in a safe place, and maybe an empty soda can or random ball...
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Weapons Of Opportunity
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These are tools that usually do not lend themselves to combat well, however, if you are suddenly attacked, say on a work party (scavenging, etc), they may well be ‘to hand’ (within reach, or already in hand) and can serve you well- Until you can get a real weapon, that is.
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These are tools that usually do not lend themselves to combat well, however, if you are suddenly attacked, say on a work party (scavenging, etc), they may well be ‘to hand’ (within reach, or already in hand) and can serve you well- Until you can get a real weapon, that is.
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Chainsaw:
It's noisy, needs regular cleaning, guts and other bodily matter jam the blade and it runs on already scarce and precious gas. Basically useless in any situation. Unfortunately, this weapon strikes most civilians as the ultimate zombie- killer because of its portrayal in movies.
It's noisy, needs regular cleaning, guts and other bodily matter jam the blade and it runs on already scarce and precious gas. Basically useless in any situation. Unfortunately, this weapon strikes most civilians as the ultimate zombie- killer because of its portrayal in movies. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kitchen Knife:
In a moment of panic, one might reach for an available common kitchen knife to defend themselves. Most kitchen knives are made from cold-rolled stainless steel and are very flimsy, with either a plastic or hardwood handle.A kitchen knife will damage an opponent will likely kill them. However, chest blows may casue the blade to become stuck, and possibly break. A questionably effective altertnative is to insert it into the eye socket. Alternatively, if you have a blade long enough, you can puncture under the chin, through the thin bone and cartilage of the upper-mouth, through the sinuses into the brain cavity.
The reach of this weapon is extremely limited; Besides the inherant dangers of using ANY edged weap (getting skin job blood on you and the proximity nessesary, which will allow them to fight BACK, and at which range they will ussually WIN), these blades or generally of excellent quality- For preparing dinner. To defend yourself, however, you may wish to locate a more practicle weap soonest possible.
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Hand Saw:
Not recommended at all, as it's worse than the chainsaw. Only real use would be to sever the head or grasping limb of a stuck zombie. For instance, if a building or wall collapses and the zombie gets stuck under some rubble but still has a hold on you, this can be used to cut off the arm.
Not recommended at all, as it's worse than the chainsaw. Only real use would be to sever the head or grasping limb of a stuck zombie. For instance, if a building or wall collapses and the zombie gets stuck under some rubble but still has a hold on you, this can be used to cut off the arm.
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Hammer:
The humble hammer may be your first choice when it comes to killing zombies up close, or it may be the last thing you would even think of. Whatever your opinion might be, you should be aware of the hammer's advantages and its disadvantages.
The humble hammer may be your first choice when it comes to killing zombies up close, or it may be the last thing you would even think of. Whatever your opinion might be, you should be aware of the hammer's advantages and its disadvantages.It is relatively light, rarely exceeding 6 pounds (much like medieval war hammers of the past, they are about the same weight). This is very good when it comes to swinging it around all day. An effective weapon, good for smashing zombie skull.
The length of its short, wooden handle means you will have to get in pretty close, usually within the reach of a zombie hug. The hammer requites quite a bit of momentum to do any damage, leaving you with the problem of not being able to use it effectively in a confined space(in a crowd, or under a vehicle or something). Also, you might have been using this thing for a long time slamming nails, locks, stuff... the wooden handle might snap without warning leaving you without a weapon. And last, if you hit a zombie with the sharp fork on the back of the hammer, it might get stuck, and leave you with no weapon. Try to get to a relatively open space allowing you room to swing and move about.
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Pool Cue:
A long fragile stick that would be better used for what it is meant for: playing pool. However, if you are forced to use one to defend yourself, quickly break it off and use it as an improvised spear.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soda/Beer Bottles:
 | A crude improvised weapon, in the midst of a hand-to-hand fight, bottles can be shoved into a skin job's mouth until it gets stuck and thereby buy you time to escape. |  |
The Cast-Iron Frying Pan:
The Cast-Iron frying pan... Big, heavy, and unwieldy, this tool is best used for cooking and not zombie killing. Although, if you are ever caught off-guard in the kitchen and have nothing else, it is better then nothing. It's weight is more then enough to break bone with a direct hit, and has plenty of potential energy to smash zombie skull.Warning: Cast iron pans (if not maintained) are breeding grounds for bacteria and fungus (cast iron has millions of little pores on the surface, making it difficult to wash thouroughly). So, if you ever use it on a zombie, it is best that you not use it for cooking again ever. Also, they're pretty heavy.
Note: Also makes a delicious corn bread.
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The Humble Rock:
Well, if you have nothing better to use, best look for one of these. They can be quite plentiful and versatile, good for bashing zombie skull. If you are good, however, you might be able to throw a sizable rock at a zombie, and actually kill it. Usually found laying about on the ground, and easy to find if you know where to look.Warning: Most rocks are better left sitting on the ground. They should only be used if you have absolutely no better alternative other than your fists.
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The Pitch/Spading Fork:
Known best as the pitch fork, it is an intimidating weapon, but not that effective when attacking zombies. As it is very good at what it does, it was never intended to be used as a weapon. The pitchfork has relatively sharp, yet skinny prongs, varying in number from two to some times 10. They can easily be bent out of shape during combat, but can easily be fixed with a bit of elbow grease.A thrusting weapon, it can be used to aim for the eye socket and spinal chord. Although, unless you have very good aim, odds are you will achieve non-lethal blows, and get it stuck in the zombie. This makes it a less-then ideal weapon to kill zombies with.
If you, however, aim for the chest and rib cage (or any other large part of the body), you can keep the zombie in question at a distance, allowing you to hold it off until you let go, or it backs off. In 1 on 1 engagements, this can be an advantage, being able to manipulate the zombie and possible push it into a pit, or down onto it's back or against a wall. Although, if you are outnumbered, it is advised you look for something else.
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The Bow/Steel Rake:
Comming in various shapes, sizes and weights, the steel rake is a strong and useful tool that can be used for anything from from farming, to sift through rubble, and turning stuff over in the fire. It may not be your first choice as a weapon, but it can do quite a bit of damage if used correctly (this goes double for the industrial strength rakes). The solid steel head can be an effective bludgeon, and the wide flat end is good for pushing a zombie back.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Golf Club:
The golf club can be a dangerous weapon in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. The heavy metal head on the end can act as the head of a club, concentrating a lot of energy into one area, and the long metal handle pretty strong.
The only real downside is that many tend to bend if you hit something very hard, and after a few swings, it might not be that good of a weapon.
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Snowboard:
A very capable weapon in a pinch. You can find it in may sports stores and Is made from laminated fiberglass around wood. The board can (if large enough) can be used as a long blunt weapon with a good grip of one of the footholds. If you have some a hammer and nails around the house you could probably hammer some nails into the foothold side of the board to start allowing you to give the zombies a few holes in its head.
The weapon could possibly be used as a small shield if used properly, but this is just an idea.
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Paratech Hooligan Tools:
The Hooligan Tool is one of the world´s most popular forcible entry tools. These heavy-duty tools were designed to pound, puncture, pry, twist, and cut all types of barriers encountered by emergency service personnel.The head and claw are forged from high alloy steel, heat treated for maximum strength, then fitted to a 1” (2.5 cm) stress proof bar. The bar has machine grooved non-slip grips. The Hooligan Tool features a newly designed claw that is gently curved for maximum prying leverage. The claw opening is parallel and fits over locks, hasps and many door bars. It can also be used as a nail puller and a gas shut off during emergencies. The new “Highway Hooligan Tool” features a new metal cutting claw with a machine sharpened metal cutter that uses the can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.Standard Claw: Parallel opening for gas valve shutoffs, locks and hasps. Machine sharpened claws. Recessed nail puller. Claw radius for prying leverage. Grip-machine grooved non-slip grips.
Metal Cutting Claw: Combines the capability of prying and metal cutting. Machine sharpened metal cutter uses can opener principle to cut heavy gauge metal and composites.
Bright Chrome Finish: The standard high gloss chrome plated finish is available for good looks and easy maintenance.
Long Pike: Sharp, tapered and gently curved to fit a lock or latch.
Long Duckbill: smooth incline to force windows and interior doors.
Recommended Users: Fire departments, law enforcement agencies, rescue squads, hazmat teams, plant/refinery maintenance crews, military and public utilities, and post-skin job uprising salvers.
Application: Though best used as designed, a TOOL for forcing entry, a Hooligan could be used if one were suddenly attacked by a skin job while securing gas/forcing a window/etc. One whack from this, if you’re strong enough to actually use it as intended, should split their head open like a cantaloupe. However, it is still best employed as designed, like all weapons of opportunity.
 |  |  |  |
| Ripping A Car’s Hood Open. | Securing Gas Main To a Building. | Ripping A Padlock OFF A Building. | Forcing a Security Door (not an average home door). |
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Miscellaneous Weapons
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Brass Knuckles/Knuckle Duster:
In the USA, it's easy to get a hold of and is fairly compact so it could be quite easily concealed for use as a very, very last resort. Although not as effective as bladed weaponry, it is preferable to bare fists. The Brass knuckles have been known to have small blades or broken off screws on the striking edge or improvised additions such as looped barbed wire or metal shards.
Brass Knuckles/Knuckle Duster:In the USA, it's easy to get a hold of and is fairly compact so it could be quite easily concealed for use as a very, very last resort. Although not as effective as bladed weaponry, it is preferable to bare fists. The Brass knuckles have been known to have small blades or broken off screws on the striking edge or improvised additions such as looped barbed wire or metal shards.
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Torch:
Zombies are as weak against fire as a regular human is. A torch poses an excellent mode of transporting a flame, but it is a close range weapon unless thrown. Zombies that are on fire are still very dangerous due to the fact they feel no pain. The fire will spread as they move, maybe catching up to the one with the torch. I would stay away from these on the grounds that the fire takes a large amount of time to reach and properly char the brain, in which time you could have lost everything from this carelessly started fire. This more effective against rage zombies than traditional zombies, the ragers will actually die from it dehydrating their blood whereas a run-of-the-mill zed will have to get its braing fried.Note: can also be used as a source of light.
Zombies are as weak against fire as a regular human is. A torch poses an excellent mode of transporting a flame, but it is a close range weapon unless thrown. Zombies that are on fire are still very dangerous due to the fact they feel no pain. The fire will spread as they move, maybe catching up to the one with the torch. I would stay away from these on the grounds that the fire takes a large amount of time to reach and properly char the brain, in which time you could have lost everything from this carelessly started fire. This more effective against rage zombies than traditional zombies, the ragers will actually die from it dehydrating their blood whereas a run-of-the-mill zed will have to get its braing fried.Note: can also be used as a source of light.
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Rubble:
After Z-Day, there is bound to be a lot of destruction, especially in urban centers. This destruction of our infrastructure can work to your advantage. Piles of rubble produce an endless supply of blunt objects and projectile weaponry such as stones, broken wood or pipes. These rubble heaps can be a great spot for improvised weapons in a jam. Remember that contrary to popular belief, you can't kill zombies with just anything, like a soccer ball or a giant cactus *cough*DEADRISING*cough*.
After Z-Day, there is bound to be a lot of destruction, especially in urban centers. This destruction of our infrastructure can work to your advantage. Piles of rubble produce an endless supply of blunt objects and projectile weaponry such as stones, broken wood or pipes. These rubble heaps can be a great spot for improvised weapons in a jam. Remember that contrary to popular belief, you can't kill zombies with just anything, like a soccer ball or a giant cactus *cough*DEADRISING*cough*.
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Spiked Gauntlet:
This weapon is basically a glove with metal spikes. This weapon allows you to operate guns, machinery, etc and still have some defense against arm bites. Keep in mind that you have to get dangerously close to a zombie and will probably not kill it. Actual use of this item would entail rubbing your arm back and forth on a zombie multiple times, virtually cheese grating it to the point of hemorrhaging. During the fifteen minutes this would take, your opponent would have ample time to pause to wonder what the hell you are doing, give up, and devour you bit by bit. This should only be used if you have absolutely no other option and the zombie already has you. Better yet, don't use it.
This weapon is basically a glove with metal spikes. This weapon allows you to operate guns, machinery, etc and still have some defense against arm bites. Keep in mind that you have to get dangerously close to a zombie and will probably not kill it. Actual use of this item would entail rubbing your arm back and forth on a zombie multiple times, virtually cheese grating it to the point of hemorrhaging. During the fifteen minutes this would take, your opponent would have ample time to pause to wonder what the hell you are doing, give up, and devour you bit by bit. This should only be used if you have absolutely no other option and the zombie already has you. Better yet, don't use it.
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Unarmed:
The absolute WORST weapon you can defend yourself with is the one you were born with- Your body. (If you're close enough to do your Mike TYSON impression, they're close enough to bite you.) When forced to defend yourself against a skin job in direct, hand-to-hand combat, use a good hard shove or kick (do not bother with groin kicks, they hurt but that’s it) to knock them either way, or better still on their asses, allowing you the minute precious seconds to escape. Unarmed: If it all goes totally south, knock them down, then JUMP ON TOP OF THEM; Use your body weight to hold them down and use an weapon, even a weaponof opportunity, to kill the skin job.
WARNING: In a knock-down, drag out, street brawl with a skin job YOU WILL LOSE EACH AND EVERY TIME unless you escape. The skin job is stronger, faster, and will kill you if you’re lucky. DO NOT GO FU ON A SKIN JOB. You will die. Or worse
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Stick:
An extremely simple weapon, the stick is easy to use, plentiful in rural areas or city parks and can be used as an improvised bludgeon. Unfortunately, it has very little killing power and breaks easily. Can also be turned into a torch with a rag and some alcohol. The best use of this is to not hit or try to kill the zombie, but better to simply knock it out of the way. Although this may seem stupid to some people, that push will buy you precious seconds to get away.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ASP Expandable Baton:
The ASP baton may very well be THE impact weapon, as it is the lightest and most compact. It might not look like much but it can deliver bone crushing force with ease. Its compact design allows for it to be used in tight spaces such as a dark alley. The ASP can also be retracted and stored for ready use when your firearm runs dry.
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Cane:
More appropriate to a late’70’s/early ‘80’s pimp than a TRUE survivor of the rise of the skin jobs, this thing can nevertheless be used a bludgeon in a pinch. Do not use for long periods of time, as it will probably break. Also with the right one, you can look like a pimp while bashing zombie skulls- If that's what you want to look like.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Throwing Stars:
This weapon really is quite useless- It could be deadly if aimed at the right places, but the chances of hitting those spots are essentially nill. It is mostly a harassment weapon, intending to get an enemy to duck or break off their pursuit (even an instant can buy you time to escape). However, if shoved with enough force, towards the brain, up through the jaw, it could kill. Individual throwing stars are very light and won't weigh you down much, but a large number of them can. Although they say "Throwing Star", do not actually throw them. You will not have the strength nor the accuracy to deliver a killing blow. As stated above, us as a melee weapon, with enough force you can essentially stab it upwards from under the jaw and hope to penetrate the brain. For a more practical use, use to distract them by throwing in the general diurection of an enemy, casuing them to pause for a second.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
T.A.S.E.R.:
T.
A.S.E.R. (more commonly Taser, also TaZer) stands for “Thomas A. Swift’s Electric Rifle” and is a self defense weapon that stuns a attacker by electrocuting them, causing excruciating pain. Though skin jobs are thought not to feel pain, a very high voltage version may still be at least limitedly effective, especially if aimed for the head. Taser International is the main producer, and owner of the “Taser” brand-name copyright. The police and militry M-26 variant uses a sufficiently high voltage that compliance is automatic, as it supra-contracts the muscles, making pain irrelevant. Curled up in a ball like that, you can not even protect yourself, and there is no pain tolerance involved- You just drop to the ground and twitch around a bit.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Really BAD Options
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These are weaps that you should ONLY use if they happen to be in your hand when you are attacked; They were INTENDED for other things (ussually tools), and are generally of questionable quality in that regard as well.
Save yourself the trouble; If you find them, look for something else.
These are weaps that you should ONLY use if they happen to be in your hand when you are attacked; They were INTENDED for other things (ussually tools), and are generally of questionable quality in that regard as well.
Save yourself the trouble; If you find them, look for something else.
Mini- And Compact-Axe Sets:
These might look like something to use, but only as a last resort. The Mini-Axe set and the Compact Axe
These "tools" have cheap tubular handles that are designed to collapse to make them easier to carry. It also makes them likely to collapse in use and maybe just bend. Tools that I have seen like this might be useful in a garden, if it was smaller than 1x2 foot, anything larger would likely exceed their capability. All that said they are still better than nothing, as long as you remember that effectively you do have nothing.
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