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Nagant M1895
Model: Nagant M1895An extremely unique and very old revolver, the Nagant has a reputation as the weapon that can become the mythical "silenced revolver". It has been in use since 1895, almost as old as the Mosin-Nagant rifle, and was used as the standard sidearm of the Russian military and police until the 1930s. Even into World War II it was produced and used in great numbers and continues to be used today. The main reason for its continuous use is the unique gas seal system; the cylinder moves forward when the gun is cocked, closing the gap between the cylinder and barrel and increasing the muzzle velocity. Because of this seal, it is one of the only revolvers that can be fitted with a silencer.
While ammunition is often difficult to get, aftermarket cylinders can be purchased to convert it to .32 ACP or .32 H&R Magnum, allowing for modern, cheap ammo to be used.
| Specifications: | |
| Weight: | 1.8 lb (0.8 kg) |
| Length: | 10.5 in (235 mm) |
| Barrel Length: | 4.5 in (114 mm) |
| Cartridge: | 7.62x38mmR .32 ACP (aftermarket) .32 H&R Magnum (aftermarket) |
| Action: | Double/single action |
| Muzzle Velocity: | 750 ft/s (272 m/s) |
| Effective Range: | 25 yd (22 m) |
| Feed System: | Fixed cylinder. 7 |
| Sights: | Front post, rear notch |
Where to find
The Nagant is no longer in common use, though it's believed that some special forces units continue to use it as a silenced weapon. Due to the large amount produced, they can often be found as low as $75, with rare models going for $575.
Complexity
The Nagant, as a classic Soviet weapon, is an extremely durable revolver. It has faced battle in the harsh climate of the Russian countryside and frozen wastelands, working fine in all cases. The biggest problem is ammunition, which can be rectified by buying an aftermarket cylinder to convert it to a new caliber. On the plus side, cylinder replacement is extremely easy and the weapon can be field stripped with no tools, unlike many modern revolvers.
Controls
- Loading gate: Located on the right rear of the cylinder. Opens to the right for loading.
- Hammer: Cocked back for firing.
- Ejector rod: Located below the barrel.
Loading
Condition One, or "Locked and Cocked." Chamber loaded, magazine full, hammer cocked and safety applied.
- Cannot be done, as there is no safety or half-**** position.
- Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Swing the loading gate to the right, exposing the cylinder.
- Take a loaded cartridge and push it all the way into the rear of the chamber. Rotate the cylinder to expose each chamber.
- When the cylinder is fully loaded, close the loading gate.
Condition Three. Chamber empty, magazine full, hammer down, safety off.
- Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Swing the loading gate to the right, exposing the cylinder.
- Take a loaded cartridge and push it all the way into the rear of the chamber. Skip the next chamber, then continue to load the other 4.
- When the first loaded chamber is visible again through the loading gate, close the loading gate. There is now an empty chamber under the hammer.
Unloading
How to unload the firearm and make safe. Presented in a numbered list.
- Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Swing the loading gate to the right, exposing the cylinder.
- Unscrew the ejector rod, pull it forward, and rotate it to the right so it lines up with the chamber.
- Push the ejector rod back to push the casing/cartridge from the chamber.
- Continue to rotate the cylinder and eject the casings/cartridges until the cylinder is empty.
Field Stripping
How to disassemble the firearm for cleaning. Presented in a numbered list.
- Point the weapon in a safe direction. Critical step in case it accidentally discharges!
- Unload the weapon as described above. Ensure that the hammer is down.
- Unscrew the ejector rod and pull it forward, then rotate the it to the right so that it is lined up with the chamber.
- Rotate the metal piece under the barrel so the markings are lined up and bushing is cleared, then pull the bushing off of the frame.
- Lower the loading gate and roll the cylinder out the right side of the frame.
- Push the cylinder bushing down slightly and rotate it so that the markings on the bushing and cylinder are lined up, then remove the bushing and spring.
chitoryu12 |
Latest page update: made by chitoryu12
, Mar 7 2011, 9:31 PM EST
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Keyword tags:
1895
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