Alright, here are some general suggestions for prepping a car for a Z-Day scenario. I’m going to use a template, and apply it to different vehicle types, seeing as vehicles have so many different variations, what works for a school bus may not fare as well on a BMW M3. To improve the usefulness, I’m going to apply the template to a subcompact, a compact, a coupe, a sedan, a sports car, a muscle car, a performance car, a small SUV, a mid-size SUV, a large SUV, a mini-van, a full van, a small pickup, a mid-size pickup, a large pickup, a limo, a shuttle van/ bus, a large tow truck, and a semi-trailer. Basically I’m just gonna start from the ground up. So, here’s the template:
Tires-
Brakes-
Undercarriage-
Bumpers-
Lights-
Doors/Quarter Panels-
Radiator-
Engine-
Transmission-
Hood-
Windows-
Interior-
Roof-

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Subcompact, example Mini Cooper S



Tires- Depending on your climate, go for an appropriate grade of tire that will give you traction in the conditions you’ll be facing (rain, sleet, snow, dirt, etc.) and still offer you a good level of grip.

Brakes- Replacing the stock pads for a beefier set wouldn’t be a bad idea. If the rotors are worn or pitted at all, replace them with a factory set or a quality after market part (Brembo, Wilwood)

Undercarriage- Some sort a basic skid plate would be useful. Even just a piece of sheet metal to cover the oil pan would be invaluable.

Bumpers- Subcompacts aren’t made for ramming zombies, so don’t needlessly add weight to the bumpers and hurt the car’s maneuverability. Instead use the subcompacts’ tight turning radius and just avoid them entirely.

Lights- Find or fabricate a system to try and shield the lights from damage. The lights are invaluable to your survival, as driving through the middle of the night blind in a zombie riddled world is not a good idea. If your car doesn’t have them, consider getting high intensity headlamps. Not only do they improve the visibility, but if you encounter any raiders, a good defense mechanism could be blinding them with the high beams while you prepare to fight or run.

Doors/Quarter Panels- Again, a subcompact isn’t gonna stand up to smacking zombies. Keep the excess weight off and use the car’s handling to avoid them entirely.

Radiator- Ditto the above. Focus on making sure the radiator works properly and keeps the temperature down, if you hit a subcompact into something hard enough to puncture the radiator; you’ve probably totaled the car anyway. If you are going to do something, use some sort of metal grating to cover the front bumper and the hood to hold the hood down and provide extra protection for the radiator.

Engine- Most subcompacts have small displacement four cylinder engines that are generally fuel efficient. Most sporty versions come supercharged or turbocharged, which should provide plenty of power in a reliable, controllable package.

Transmission- If you’ve got an automatic, just make sure the fluid is relatively new and functions properly. If you’ve got stick, make sure the fluid works and make sure the clutch is functioning correctly and isn’t showing any inconsistencies.

Hood- As mentioned above, use a metal grating to hold the hood down so that in case of an impact, it doesn’t come flying up and impede your visibility.

Windows- Some type of metal grate or screen would be good for protecting the windows. However, the windows themselves are fairly durable, and will stand up to a certain level of abuse. The down side of covering the windows is the loss of visibility which can prove dangerous if you can’t see the zombies around you.

Interior- Unload whatever you can from the interior to reduce the vehicles’ weight and make it faster and more maneuverable. If you have the ability, install a roll cage and racing harnesses, so that worst case if you flip or wreck the vehicle you survive the impact and hopefully are still able to move and get away from the wreck. Also, if you have the room, consider a fuel cell in addition to the gas tank for increased fuel storage.

Roof- Leave it alone. If you are selecting a vehicle post Z-Day, try to find one with a sunroof, just to leave you with an extra exit from the vehicle and a built in firing port.

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Compact, example Ford Focus SE

Compacts are really the non-prefixed version of the sub-compact. They usually have a little more power, weigh a little more, are a little bigger, and hold a little more. So basically, ditto the sub-compact mods, because the differences between the two are really minuscule.

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Coupe, example Audi S5

Tires- Again, pick a tire appropriate for your weather conditions and the speed rating necessary for the car. Coupes can vary greatly, but the majority are out of the compact range and many have the power to necessitate a high speed rated tire. Learn how to change tires and get the equipment, and run a tire that will give you an aggressive compound without losing weather capability and without wearing out overnight.

Brakes- Like tires, the more power you have the more vital they are. Also, the ability to peel off speed at the right moment gives you extra control in the corners an helps keep the tires planted, which means you can deliver power sooner out of the corner. F1 Champion Mario Andretti summed it up best by saying he was surprised at how many people even on an F1 level still thought brakes were for slowing a car down.

Undercarriage- Again, shielding for the oil pan and tank would be good, other than that it's just dead weight as you aren't taking this car over more than a gravel or dirt path.

Bumpers- Most coupes still aren't going to work for ramming, though some do have enough metal to take a hit and keep going. A modest reinforcement would be good, perhaps more metal grating to hold the bumpers in place or a makeshift push bar if your car can handle the strain of hitting the occasional zombie when the need arises.

Lights- More power equals more speed, and that means that things are coming up at you even faster. Lights are even more vital the quicker you move, so again you should take measures to ensure their survival.

Doors/Quarter Panels- Again, the car isn't made for a slug-fest with zombies and other vehicles. Since you don't have rear doors that might need to be secured, the only possible consideration would be a reinforcing bar down the right side, though you sacrifice use of the right side door in doing so.

Radiator- Same as before, avoid zombies whenever possible and if you have to, try to cover the front end with something to absorb the impact instead of transferring it to the radiator.

Engine- Maintenance becomes more vital than before. Bigger engines and more power will wear on the car and the motor, so make sure to keep the fluids replenished and try not to over-drive the car unless it's necessary.

Transmission- Ditto the above.

Hood- Extend the bumper reinforcements up to cover the front of the hood, to prevent it flying up into your way and possibly coming back into the windshield and breaking it.

Windows- Covering them with a metal grating wouldn't hurt. Neither would replacing the glass with a stronger polymer, such as Plexiglas, Lexan, or perspex. Just be careful about cutting it and sealing it.

Interior- Strip out the unneeded and give yourself more storage. If you can weld, consider a roll cage for extra support and consider a fuel cell.

Roof- If you've got a sunroof, use it as a free gun port. Otherwise, leave it alone.

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Sedan, example Dodge Charger R/T

Tires- Again, keep a good set of rubber on your car, and make sure it fits the speed rating and the weather conditions.

Brakes- Even more important than on other cars. Sedans are usually the heaviest of the car types, and demand the most of a braking system. The upside is that most technology is applied first to the flagship sedans, so things like ABS and such are more common in sedans.

Undercarriage- Ditto the previously mentioned. Most sedans won't work off-road, so very basic protection is all that will most likely be needed.

Bumpers- More weight equals more force, so hitting a zombie is possible. It would be advantageous to install a custom built brush guard to the front end, or you can take one from a wrecked police car and modify it. Still, you don't want to push the car too hard or you'll still wreck it. If you've got fabrication skills, consider boxing in the frame with additional steel, especially the front end around the engine bay. The ultimate modification would be reinforcing the crumple zones to make them as strong as the rest of the frame.

Lights- Again, they're vital at night and for blinding enemies. Take precautions to keep them working, and try to find a car with HID lamps or install them.

Doors/ Quarter Panels- Seeing as the vehicle could be used for ramming, consider fabricating a steel runner to go down the side of the car, to hold the bumper on and provide extra support.

Radiator- Roll this into the bumper modifications. Take care to keep it intact, and if you can fabricate some sort of shielding to keep debris away from the radiator.

Engine- The nice part of sedans is the availability of big engines. V6 and V8 choices are far more common in sedans than small cars, even a few 10 and 12 cylinder engines are available. Whatever engine you've got, keep the fluids changed regularly and don't abuse it unnecessarily.

Transmission- Stick shift is somewhat less common in big sedans than in the compacts and coupes, though there has been a proliferation of manumatic transmissions, automatics that have a clutchless manual option. These are good as they give you the convenience of an auto, but most of the performance of a manual. Not quite as good as a full manual, but close for those who can't figure out a clutch.

Hood- Again, join with the bumpers. Extend your brush guard up to cover the front of the hood, so that if the catch is damaged and fails the hood won't come up and hit the windshield or block your view.

Windows- Consider some sort of metal grating or screen to cover them, and/or replacing the glass with a suitable polymer, though only if you can cut it to fit and seal it properly.

Interior- Again, strip out the unnecessary stuff, though try to keep the backseats for carrying a couple of extra occupants.

Roof- Use the sunroof if you have one, though don't do anything to the roof itself.

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Sports Car, example Porsche 911, Chevy Corvette

Tires- Tires are extremely important on a performance vehicle. Make sure you have a high quality, high performance set of rubber on your vehicle. Check that the speed rating fits or exceeds the maximum your car can do, and make sure you have the right sizes. Some sports cars do have staggered sizes, where the rear wheels are wider than the fronts and may even have different heights.

Brakes- Again, extremely crucial. The faster you go, the quicker you cover ground. Things come up quick at high speed, so having a good brake setup is a necessity. Make sure that you replace the original setup with parts that are as good if not better, including performance pads, calipers, and check if the rotors are cross drilled or ventilated.

Undercarriage- Minimal protection at best is all that is advisable. A gravel road, dirt path, or grassy field is about the most off-roading you'll be doing with a sports car unless you modify it to Group B rally car specs.

Bumpers- You don't want to ever hit a zombie with a sports car. Most are made of all light weight materials, and they aren't designed for any heavy impacts. The only possible exception would be a rear or mid engined car (such as the Porsche 911 or Acura NSX), which could be modified to make the front end stronger and capable of taking the impact. Still, impacts are not something to go looking for in a performance vehicle.

Lights- As stated before, make sure they work properly and provide you with the necessary candle power to keep you safe at night.

Doors/Quarter panels- Focus on avoiding the zombies to begin with. Trying to pull off a Death Race-esque slide the rear quarter panel into a zombie is only going to end up with the car either upside down or wrapped around a telephone pole.

Radiator- The Porsche 911 is truly gifted in this aspect. It's radiator is basically right behind the trunk lid, which is why you see the vents in the trunk lid. In other vehicles, again focus on avoidance.

Engine- Unless you know what you're doing and know how to drive, leave the engine alone. Trying to get extra horsepower and torque will likely drain the car of it's reliability and it increases the chance of you having a wreck. That said, pay close attention to the oil and other fluids. Especially on some performance vehicles, the need for oil is staggering. RX-7's and RX-8's are both sometimes plagued with oil burning, a problem with rotary engines, and the Porsche 911 can take up to 11 quarts of oil in some models. The usual amount most cars take is four to five.

Trans- You better know how to drive stick. While there are plenty of Vette convertibles with automatics, and a few 911 convertibles with TipTronic, most performance cars are stick and more and more stick shift is becoming the only choice offered on some new sports cars. Again, make sure to check the trans fluid periodically, and when you change it check for any metallic bits.

Hood- Avoidance is key.

Windows- Some type of mesh or screen wouldn't hurt, though again, think avoidance.

Interior- There isn't much to take out on most sports cars. And there isn't much room anyway, so just leave it alone and avoid the risk of messing up any hidden wiring.

Roof- If you have a convertible, targa, or sunroof, use it for a firing port and for general enjoyment. Otherwise, do not touch it at all.

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Muscle Car, example Plymouth GTX, Pontiac GTO

Tires- Old muscle cars didn't come with good tires. Often they weren't even radial tires, so they were prone to failing. Stock wheels were fairly narrow, so going up to a wider, better tire will require replacing the original wheels with aftermarket rims which can accommodate better rolling stock.

Brakes- They're terrible. Muscle cars came with drum brakes all around, which are somewhat less effective than disc brakes in dry weather and lose all ability in bad weather as water gets into the drum and prevents the brakes from functioning properly. The best thing you can do is just tear off the wheels, tires, and brakes. Then, get a bigger, more effective set of disc brakes along with new wheels that can fit wider, stickier tires. Even with the brakes however, you still don't have ABS so you still need to be careful to prevent the brakes from locking up.

Undercarriage- Not much is really needed. While muscle cars actually tend to sit higher up than most cars, they don't have enough ground clearance to get into areas where skid plates are needed. Minimal protection would be good, but not an absolute necessity.

Bumpers- A beautiful mixture of chrome and steel. Muscle cars have serious bumpers, which actually makes hitting an object or two possible without completely crippling the car. Seeing as the car's already have so much steel and are so heavily built, reinforcing it to take a few hits isn't that bad of an idea. If you can weld, reinforcing the front and rear ends isn't that bad of an idea.

Lights- Just make sure they work properly and provide enough candle power to see what's ahead. Some muscle cars have hide away headlights, which helps to protect them when they aren't being used.

Doors/ Quarter panels- If you don't mind getting in and out the Dukes of Hazard way, you can run a metal strip across the doors and quarter panels to keep them from coming open if the latches are damaged by a collision. If you can drift, consider reinforcing the rear quarter panels to allow you to use them to hit a stray zombie or two.

Radiator- The sheer amount of steel in the front end means that the front end can take a hit or two before the radiator is punctured. However, reinforcing the front end to protect the radiator isn't a bad idea to promote the car's longevity.

Engine- If you know your way around an engine, muscle cars can easily be coerced to make big horsepower. But, even in stock form they come with massive V8's making impressive horsepower and torque. If you have mechanical ability, consider tinkering to get a bit of extra power out of the motor, but if not leave it alone.

Transmission- Most muscle cars came with a three or four speed manual transmission, so know how to drive stick. It is rare to see an automatic muscle car, though they are out there. If you know what you're doing and have time/space, you could swap out the trans for a more aggressive, stronger trans but it isn't necessary.

Hood- Consider some sort of method for pining the hood down in case the latch fails. The hoods are heavy and all steel, so if the latch fails and they come free they can do serious damage.

Windows- Most muscle cars didn't have the tempered safety-glass of new cars, so removing it and putting in Plexiglas or Lexan to avoid getting sprayed by broken glass isn't a bad idea. Also consider using some sort of mesh, bars, or piping over the windows to protect them. You could also consider using a racing net setup like most classic race cars used.

Interior- Consider a roll-cage to protect yourself if you roll the car, and you should definitely add racing harnesses in the front if you can. The serious lack of safety features in a muscle car makes them dangerous in an accident, so adding a bit of safety can be very beneficial to your life expectancy.

Roof- If you have a convertible, T-top roof, or sunroof, enjoy it and use it as a firing port/escape point. Otherwise, leave it alone and don't risk compromising the car's structural integrity.

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Alright, that's it for now, more coming soon.