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Protective Clothing
As opposed to listing out every possible combination of clothes, coats, boots and so forth, this article will discuss some of the more common do's and don'ts of zombie survival dress. We've also got some specific clothing options listed. Feel free to sound off on each item with your opinion.
Assault Helmet:
In the situation that you are getting gear specifically for a zack hunt, this type of specialized headgear may prove useful. Full-face/full coverage shell, constructed of lightweight composite material. The shell features an adjustable, six position ratchet anti-fog face shield. The shell design incorporates a modular jaw piece that can be raised with push of a button that is located under the chin edge of the helmet safely opened or closed with one hand and locks in place. This example is the Max Pro Police FC-210 Correctional Helmet, $350. It is a full-face modular helmet, made with a lightweight composite shell with a removable, washable fit pad. Protective bands over the visor protect the wearer against the possibility of a zed smashing out the visor itself, while the visor protects the wearer against spit (which has not been proven not to be the primary vector agent).
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Visorless Helmet:
There are many different varieties, most commonly motocross or recreational biking helmets. These are usually composed of a composite of fiberglass, polystyrene and various plastics. They are durable and usually lightweight with ample padding.
They are only to be worn if in a hazard area where there is no risk of infected. Most of these types of helmets are NOT bullet resistant, and will provide almost no protection during close zombie combat; However, the example on the left, a dirt bike helmet, can easily enough be upgraded to a proper helmet (such as the one above), and the one on the right (a bicycle helmet) and be cannibalized for components for another helmet.
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Crash Helmet (with visor)
Designed for protecting your brainbucket in harsh crashes, your average motorbike helmet is common and sturdy. A majority will come with a full visor. Those with hinged visors could be modified for zed protection by pinning the visor in place and attaching protective bands. (such as those on various sports headgear).
The result would be similar to the above assault helmet and likely be easier to explain.
Hat:
There is an extremely wide variety of hats. Rimmed, baseball and dress hats are by far some of the most common. These items are intended for environmental protection and style, little else.
Assuming that your survival is spent out of doors, a simple hat will work wonders to help prevent sunburn and heat stroke. This is a mere inconvenience in most situations, but a bad sunburn can limit the range of motion and make for a distracting injury with the potential for infection.
Cowboy hats are the best kind of hat you can get if you want to protect yourself from the weather, but baseball caps are best if you want at least some weather protection while maintaining a reasonably wide field of vision.
WARNING: A hat will provide no protection versus physical attack; If you are operating in an area wear the chances of a zombie attack is anthing above -100%, wear a helmet instead. It will provide you adequate protection from the sun, and without the risk of getting bitten.
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Bandanna:
A versatile piece of clothing, the banana has many uses as a simple piece of cloth.
Worn underneath your helmet, a bandanna can help with the distribution of heat and sweat. Even if not worn, a bandanna can make for an excellent signaling tool, emergency bandage or a number of other uses that may present themselves. If you're trying to keep track of your team, consider color coding them. It's easier to avoid shooting the heads of survivors if they are clearly differentiated from a zombie.
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Chain Mail:
Mail, better known as chainmail, appears to be an ideal armor when choosing to engage a zombie, and would probably do nicely for one who is strong enough to wear it. Chain mail is a series of several thousand metal links, woven together into a piece of clothing. Chain mail commonly comes in a tunic to cover the chest, but there are also appropriate chain mail pieces for the hands, legs, feet and head.
They are designed to resist sharp puncture and slicing motions from a blade (or teeth), and are very effective. Most chain mail is worn over top of thick cotton to absorb sweat and provide a comfort zone. (This thick padding is also part of the armor. Knights were sometimes known to appear as walking pincushions, because they would get hit by arrows that just barely penetrated the mail overtop.)
Although chain mail is very heavy, it feels much lighter when it is worn than when it is carried in a bundle. And even though it feels much lighter when it is worn, the flexibility of the armor means most of its weight rests on the wearer's shoulders. But the heavy weight on the shoulders can easily be redistributed more evenly by wearing a tough, thick belt. The weight can also make agile movements, running, dodging, and lifting all difficult activities for a weak individual, which can easily lead to dehydration and fatigue. Also, although one might think that an additional drawback of chain-mail is the noise it emits (being composed of several thousand individual links of chain, the suit rattles very audibly when any slight movement is made), this might not be true (or is only partially true). It is recommended to get a hauberk (T-shirt), and test this (if you can get a hold of such a thing).
And the most notable downside of chain-mail is availability. Most chain-mail suits are in museums or specialty shops and are not owned by very many private citizens. They can be cost-prohibitive as well, so an acquisition of a new suit may not be worthwhile.
With today's modern alloys it can be lighter than the medieval knights endured. This is option requires a layer of water resistant cloth or leather underneath.
Chain mail has had a minor rebirth in the extreme sport of shark-diving. Divers will don a special type of chain mail when swimming with various breeds of shark to avoid damaging tasting "nips", which sharks commonly do when confused. This type of chain-mail does not corrode, is lighter, and is more expensive. The drawbacks are the same as battle-ready chain mail, but is much more accessible and available in select regions where shark diving is popular.
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Steel Plate Armor:
Steel plate is just that, steel plates which have be worked to form a full suite of armor. Steel plate armor was invaluable on medieval battlegrounds; but modern wearers would most likely find it too cumbersome, since the average moderner lacks the strength, training, and experience necessary to move around in the armor effectively. (Contrary to popular belief, it WAS possible to mount a horse or get up from a prone position while wearing this kind of armor!)
Usually worn in the same manner as chain mail, with full cotton tunic and pants underneath to absorb sweat and to increase comfort. Plate armor can also be worn over chain mail for additional protection.
Steel plate is designed to deflect stabbing and hacking blows. The armor can be pierced, but only with considerable difficulty. (This also depends on the style, as well as the quality of the materials and craftsmanship.)
Plate armor has two major drawbacks: the weight, and amount of time required to put it on and take it off. A steel plated suit of armor has so many pieces, that it needs to be put on from the bottom up, usually requiring the help of another individual. As mentioned earlier, the typical 21st-century human does not have the necessary experience to wear this armor effectively. Because of this, retreating from an encounter with a zombie would be quite difficult indeed, as the user would move almost as slowly as the most decayed shambling Romero-style zombie. Furthermore, any kind strenuous combat or activities would most likely render a healthy fit individual fatigued in very little time.
Because of the necessity to move, the armor has gaps at the joints. That is why the armor is built in a way that these gaps are covered by ingeniously-fitted plates. Furthermore, the joints are commonly protected by chain mail. The only thing you really have to watch out for is possible attacks through the visor (but this could be solved by somehow attaching a piece of hard, clear plastic to the inside of the visor). But it should also be noted that these sectional suits have a great number of edges and claps and buckles. A determined undead foe with use of it's fingers could possibly be able to tear a section off, exposing a good deal of the user to infection and injury (But they are only going to get the chance to do that if you are immobilized).
As with chain mail, noise is also an issue with steel plate. The constant reverberation of movement and clang of sections can easily alert nearby zombies to the users location.
Overall, it is probably advisable to only wear select pieces (as was done when a trend towards mobility rather than complete protection came to be, due to the prevalence of firearms), rather than a complete suit.
http://www.armourarchive.org/essays/ tips on metal working and making armour
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Tactical Armor, Flak Jackets, Stab And Bullet Resistant Vests:
Tactical armor, is composed of a number of hardended materials and come in a range of designs and strengths. Various garments are available, protecting different body parts, limbs and organs. The most common item is the vest design to protect the chest cavity and vital organs.
The materials included are usually a nylon, canvas or gortex composite skin, with thick heavy woven Kevlar fibers forming the bulk of the vest. Combat-oriented vests usually have removable ballistic plates intended to prevent high-energy projectile penetration. These vests are usually adjustable and are secured with the use of heavy duty Velcro straps or composite plastic buckles. Depending on the model, these vests can weigh upwards of five kilograms.
There are various levels of "soft" armor and "hard" ballistic plates. Soft generally refers to vests made out of the above listed fibers, and can generally stop handgun rounds and buckshot. These can be worn under most clothing, and disguised clothing falls into this category.
Hard armor is not actually self contained armor, but rather ballistic inserts that are deisgned to stop high power rounds.
They come in many forms, from special bullet resistant ceramic materials to simple steel and titanium plates Plates are always worn in front of any bullet resistant material, the reason behind this is explained further below.
The legality of private ownership and general availability of the aforementioned vests varies greatly.
When a bullet resistant material stops a round, the round is not stopped outright, rather, the impact is slowed down by the fabric. There is still much energy transferred through the material, which can have enough force to break bones, rupture organs and other forms of potentially lethal blunt trauma.
This is why heavy, but slow rounds, such as shotgun slugs, can kill even when they are stopped by soft armor.
For this reason, even soft armor is worn with trauma pads underneath. However, do not make the mistake of wearing hard padding if you do manage to acquire armor: a vest relies on its material giving way to slow the round. When you have a hard backing, the material to cannot give enough to slow the round, and the resulting compression allows rounds to go straight through.
In a pinch, a set of padding can be improvised from common baseball catcher’s padding. Simply join two such pads together (one hanging off your back, the other your front) to reduce the velocity of the impact to a survivable level.
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Leather Jacket:
The Leather Jacket is a common and effective piece of defense against zombie interactions. A genuine cowhide leather jacket is extremely thick and durable. There are many variations and style type, the most common being a biker jacket. For combat effectiveness, one should have a leather jacket with long sleeves; there is very little chance a zombie with be able to penetrate this with either teeth or nails. Being a fairly common item, this is an item which should not be difficult in locating in a time of emergency.
The notable drawback of a leather jacket is the heat. Leather does not breathe and perspiration from underneath will not evaporate. Use in a hot climate is no recommended.
Another concern is sound. Many heavy leather jackets tend to creak and groan when creases rub against each other. Regularly oiling the leather of a jacket will alleviate this issue. Another source of sound are metal clasps and buckles found on many leather jackets. Steps should be taken to remove this source of sound, or risk drawing unwanted attention.
Note: Leather varies in thickness, toughness, texture, etc. Soft leather is like a fabric. Try buying some thicker, stiffer leathers. It should also be noted that you do not want skin tight sleeves (leave a bit of room. That way, if you get bitten, your arm should slip out of the zombie's mouth, and only the clothes are bitten. This can buy you some time easily.
This should not be confused with very loose clothing. If the sleeves are 5 times larger then the thickness of your arm, it is best you not wear the item in question.
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Trench Coat:
Trench coats are a controversial but if your smart in how your using it,a good choice of protective clothing. Due to it's reputation of being both rugged and durable, and being worn by many people purely for fashion. As is with swords and bladed weapons, few of them are made for combat anymore because there is no real need for combat-ready weapons. This is the same for trench coats. There are a great many of them that are made from thin, easy-to-rip fabrics, and the leather ones are extremely soft. These are called fashion trench coats.
The kind of trench coat you want is one that was made to be used by 'cowboys', ranchers, and farmers. This is because the ones made for such people are made to be durable and to withstand the stresses of such work.
They are usually made from such materials as: Canvas, thick fabric, or thick/strong leather. All of which are very bite resistant materials.
Trench coats can serve any number of purposes such as protecting you from the weather, protecting you from brush and such around the legs, allowing you to sit down without having to worry about wet pants, and so on. the list is nearly endless.
Make sure you have an option to button up the trench coat, this prevents zombies from grabbing and opening the coat. A belt is also a useful feature.
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Wet-Suit:
Tight, waterproof, a little less flexible but almost bite proof. Specifically the shark-divers suit. It's made to withstand shark bites, so it will stand up to a bite from the undead.
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Grizzly Suit:
Designed to protect you against grizzly attack
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280242877954&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123
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Chainsaw protective clothing
These are designed to protect you from contact with a running chainsaw chain. Seems like they should be good protection from teeth also.
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General Clothing Guidelines:
![Protective Clothing - Zombie Survival & Defense Wiki]( "Protective Clothing - Zombie Survival & Defense Wiki")
Foot-ware:
Foot-ware is one of the most important pieces of clothing when preparing to encounter the enemy. Foot-ware is important both in combat and in performance and is even more essential when travelling on foot.
Combat, hiking and construction boots provide important protection to the feet and ankle and are usually durable enough to stop most bites to the foot and lower leg. In addition to this, they are generally a good pick for any survival situation. It should be stressed that boots need to be broken in and one needs to be sure that they are completely comfortable in wearing them. Mobility is important even with combat boots and an individual must not stumble or fall over unfamiliar or uncomfortable foot-ware. It should be noted that although steel-toe boots provide protection against impacts, they should not be used are more than an emergency weapon of desperation. A solid kick with steel-toed shoes can actually break the user's toe because of the transmission of energy through the user's foot.
Running shoes, track shoes and sneakers provide little protection against bites and punctures, but their dexterity and availability is unparalleled.
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Tight Clothes:
This is a fairly simple concept, but is largely overlooked as means of defense. Loose layers of clothing provide more material and a wider target. In close combat situations this can mean the difference between a near-miss and being dragged to the ground by a rotten corpse. While this doesn't mean that you should romp about in latex bodysuits, it does mean that cargo pants, over-sized shirts and the like are best left at home.
Besides protective uses, fairly tight clothing means less to snag on and a lesser chance of worn gear slipping.
It would also be remove ornamental bits on your clothes that can snag, or ignore the articles altogether.
Note: There is a point where tight is too tight. Be warned. Make sure your arms and legs can move with relative ease, and (if needed) you can simply slip off the item of clothing quickly. (If a zombie has an iron grip on your shirt, it would be in your best interest to take the shirt off quickly and escape. They can grab onto even the tightest of clothes.)
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Belt:
Again, simple, but again overlooked. In addition to their original intent, which is still quite important, the belt can give you a place to hang holsters, survival packs, and in worst case scenarios can be used as a very effective tourniquet or rigging.
In a pinch, your simple dress belt may do, but most are quite unsuited to carry a large amount of gear.
Generally, wider and thicker belts are more stable gear, but try not to get a belt that is too wide for your actual gear.
Duty Belts and similar gear bearing belts
Duty belts come in two forms:
Inner belts are those worn on the pants, where outer ones are the part actually carrying all the gear and connecting to any vests.
Typically, the two types of belt are connected by Velcro and belt keepers.
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Watch:
Keeping track of time can be important, especially if one is trying to coordinate with other survivors. To ensure productivity, regularly compare the times on watches between survivors. Having accurate time between all members can mean the difference between life and death in some situations
Also, being able to know what time it is can actually do quite a bit to prevent one from having distopic, pessimistic thoughts that come from feeling as though the ordeal with never end.
With analog watches, there is a methodology which can be used to decipher direction of travel, as a solar compass of sorts. In order for this to be effective, the watch needs to carry accurate time.
Digital watches should be chosen very cautiously. The alarm function can be suicide when misused.
For this very reason, analogy watches are preferable. It entirely rules out a very serious risk.
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Weather Appropriate Attire:
In addition to these specifics, remember to dress according to where you're going to be. Wear a heavy coat and dress in layers if your going to be staying in the frigid Canadian north, but don't dress like you would there if one is heading for an island in the Pacific. The regional dress that works best will not be covered for now, though it may be added at a later date.
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Canvas:
Canvas is a material used in many military capacity for clothing and other textiles because of these properties.
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Gloves:
Gloves are mixed blessing; The proper type of gloves will prevent infected from being able to bite you hands and fingers. Alternatively, they reduce an individuals tactile sense, making more dexterous actions clumsy and difficult.
Aside from the obviously benefit of hand warmth, gloves can vary in protection ability. A common leather brand will only protect the user from simple abrasions and scrapes. If one where to actually be bitten, the material would only be a buffer zone to prevent infection. Serious injury, including full digit removal can still occur.
Additional and removal of the gloves to a user's hands is vital in combat effectiveness. To aid donning the gloves, be sure to include large, easily gripped tabs. Practice donning them with both hands; Don the right glove, don the left glove, then doff the right glove, then don it again with the left glove still on. Go back and forth, ensuring the opposite is still on. One would be well-profited to practice all other fine motor skills as well (especially combat skills, such as loading weapons).
While on security detail or expecting a prolonged defense, ensure that gloves are taped in place. Duct tape is ideal for this (that’s the reason CDC, USAMRIID, and other agencies that use Class-5 exposure suits, aka “space suits”, use duct tape to secure their gloves to their suits). An individual is recommend to keep their gloves close at all times; gloves can help a person handle materials and prevent infection.
Select gloves appropriate to your circumstances; Gloves should be bite PROOF, not simply bite resistant. Tests are recommended, general abrasion and punction to see how a pair of gloves reactions to a dynamic circumstance.
As a general rule, leather work gloves are your best bet. Other materials are far less effective at the desired goal. Rubber, latex or silicon gloves should be used only for low-risk biohazard situations such as medical treatment, or worn underneath a pair of leather work gloves as an infection safety buffer. These polyermer-based gloves breath very poorly and can cause discomfort during prolonged use. fabric gloves intended for cold-weather protection can be useful, but are limited in warmer-climates, they also do not possess the flexibility and versatility of a pair of leather work gloves.
Ideally, comfortable protective gloves should be worn during any type of combat. A benign injury on the hand can easily be a vector for infection if not properly treated.
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Denim Clothing:
Denim is a material similar to canvas and is tough, durable and resistant to puncture. Pants are the most common piece of denim clothing, but one can also procure tops and even denim gloves. They are widely available and are even fashionable. Denim jeans should be worn sensibly and comfortably, not baggy as to modern style.
This is a very fair trade between protection, comfort and availability.
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Snake-Bite-Proof Chaps:
As mentioned by one of the survivors courageous enough to tell his story in the oral history of the dark times, these work well at keeping both poisonous serpents and undead crawlers from getting under your skin. These can be found in boot form, as gaiters, or as full-length chaps (pictured).
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Kevlar Cover:
Light and practically bite proof, but Kevlar is designed to protect against bullets so is put on the larges area of your body the chest (not in much danger when dealing with zombies) it would be best to take these vests and cannibalism them for use in sleeves and leggings both more easily bite able targets.
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Tarp:
A thick plastic tarp protects against bites and can also be useful as a shelter.
Note: This is only to be used if you do not have an alternative, better form of clothing.
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Motorcycle Gear:
Good motorcycle gear is an often overlooked full body zombie resistant armor solution. Easy to obtain from most motorcycle shops and dealerships, it is strong enough to protect the body from a fall at 60 mph, so it is definitely strong enough to protect against a zombie 1-on-1. Most think that this means leather; this is simply not the case as many manufacturers have developed textiles that are inherently breathable, vented, light and just as effective as leather. On top of that the jackets, pants and chaps often have armor built right in that adds a negligible amount of weight, but could be lifesaving. Coupled with a full-face helmet, thick gloves and boots, riding gear is the perfect addition to a zombie survival kit.
http://www.sixsixone.com/Products_661Moto.aspx good stuff and not to expensive leather
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SCUBA Gear:
Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA) is used to breath underwater for depth up to 105 feet (m). It's dry-side counterpart, Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA) is used by firefighters the world over. Either 'can' be used on dry land, but SCBA can NOT be used underwater.
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Riot Control Gear:
This stuff can be found in pretty much any police station, not the best of places to go but if you want it thats where to get this stuff. The padding is lightweight durable, designed to go up against knifes, clubs, torches, pitchforks. (the usual angry MOB <-- Zombie) You can move pretty well in the suits, complete coverage, and comes with tactical additives, face shield, arm shield, ammo belt, tactical vest, boots, etc.
http://www.damascusgear.com/section/products/flex_force/fx1.html nice anti-riot suit
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Gauntlets:
Armour worn b
y knights.
Pros:
Good protecting from bites, try punching a moldy corpses head with them (wear goggles),found in museum although may be fake so be careful.
Cons:
Depending on metal may break easy, if made with good metal will be heavier than the average person is used to dealing with (though, with extended wear, it will become comfortable), shouldn't be used to clear pathways should only be used if no weapons left (last resort). Also, can be highly uncomfortable, even injurious, if improperly fitted.
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Trojan Ballistics Suit Of Armor
:
In early 2007, Hurtubise made public his new protective suit which was designed to be worn by soldiers. Calling it the "Trojan", Hurtubise describes it as the "first ballistic, full exoskeleton body suit of armour." Weighing in at 40 lbs, he claims that the suit can withstand bullets from high powered weapons (including an elephant gun). Hurtubise claims that he has been unable to test the suit against live ammunition because no one is willing to shoot him in it. As well it features a knife holster, and air conditioned helmet.The suit has many features including a solar powered air system, recording device, compartments for emergency morphine and salt, and a knife and gun holster. He estimates that the cost of each suit to be roughly $2,000 if mass produced.
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Hazardous Environment Suit:
Now it may be a bit fictional but it could be made. It comes with a helmet so you
you wont get infected. It offers good protection, Its armored with heath monitors and armor monitors. It has automatic morphine administration,
laceration detectors, and is fully movable so no stiff movement. The armor charges with normal D/C Cells so you can instantly recharge it. It has a built-in HUD that monitors your ammunition and extra ammo. The ultimate zombie defense armor its sort of fictional but it could possibly be made when it is needed.Note this armor is used in Half-life 1 and 2.
General Notes: Short hair and tight clothes are the best protection, as this leaves the least possible amount of area a Zombie can grab.
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THOUGHTS FROM MEMBERS OF THE WIKI:
One thing I think people are forgetting to worry about is the damage a zombie can do without biting you. The protection list above me is a great list but no where does it state what a zombie can do to you without biting, A zombie cannot bite through most of that stuff but it cant still bite hard enough to break or fracture a bone. So yes, chain mail will not let the bite puncture the skin but once someone, zombie or not, clamps its teeth on you there can be severe muscle and bone damage. Just giving everyone a heads up :). EnriqueB
That's actually pretty smart, I never would have thought of that. ZombieSlayerRC
In my experience, zombies were of the same strength as your average human, and endowed no extra strength, just the fact no pain is felt. So to say that it will fracture a bone, goes a bit to far, maybe some muscle damage through armour, true. But its teeth, now also rotting, and so forth, will most likely break before breaking your bone, unless you suffer from some form of calcium deficiency, or the zombie is biting you with his molars, then it would be feasible that he could break a bone, but as he would have to have no cheeks to bite with a molar, that, though not infeasible, is highly unlikely. So just imagine a strong pinching pain through leather, probably stopped pretty fast if you use a small hand pick axe as a weapon.. everyone forgets, that its shape will pierce hard rock, so therefore a structure such as a skull is no problem, it would break through, and in most cases damage the brain. causing a fatal, or paralysing shot to your foe, living, or non living . deathsrising
A very good item to have is the "FX-1 FlexForce Riot Control Suit". It is nearly indestructible and is impervious to zombie attacks. You can find them for $429.99 and up (maybe less). They provide protection from blood entering your mouth and eyes, they are a dark color to prevent you from being seen (just remove the white front label), all you need to do is buy the boots, the gloves, face mask, and the helmet. These are a great thing to have in your closet for Z-Day. As soon as I raise me some cash I'm buying me a suit. I recommend you buy one too.
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Also, in regards to clothing and protection of this sort... Leather is nearly always a fantastic choice. The only problem is lack of breath-ability, which may cause dehydration and fatigue. Using leather should be done carefully, and layering of other materials (synthetic in particular) should also be considered for personal protection. And a final note on footwear. Steel toed boots are always a fantastic idea, but if you are worried about fatigue or durability, a standard military issue pair of boots can be a good alternative. These boots may be purchased at any military outlet, and even on line for rather cheap.
-EvacMedic
Something that doesn't seem to have been noted on this page so far is sound. Some of that armor, while also being heavy, constraining and generally impractical, will also make a lot of noise to alert the zombies to your presence. This could be true of leather, trench coats, tarps(who really listed that?), and some of the weather appropriate stuff(though rain should create a louder masking sound). Shoes with a loud footfall should also be avoided. Remember, you are surviving, and that requires stealth in many cases. -McSkullcracken
UnUndead: For facial protection I would suggest safety glasses and a surgical mask. This combo would effectively prevent the blood and guts from getting into your eyes, nose, and mouth, and can be found easily. Also, safety glasses are designed to fit around regular glasses, so if you need glasses to see, these give you eye protection without limiting vision.
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Anton2121: I would have to go with Motorcycle armor. It's light, flexible, and you can run in it. It's made to withstand grinding against asphalt at 50+ mph so I think it could handle a bite. The only downside I can see is it's not bullet proof (might be knife resistant though...) So it's no good for encounters with bandits or raiders. My head gear would be either a non-fog paintball mask (taped on inside so blood spatter can't get through mouth holes) or clear goggles. I would only wear tight black jeans for leg protection. Finally, I'd wear biker style buckle boots for comfort / protection / style. And anything I can find to cover my kneck.
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Here is my input. You can read a little about me in my profile.
Armor- I definitely like the looks of the Flex-Force Riot Control Suit listed above. I would definitely like to have one of these suits available for certain activities, such as when z-contact is expected in close quarters. However, I would not wear it at all times, as it would cause earlier fatigue. I have a couple pros and cons:
Pros: Bite protection (cut and crush resistant), maintains tight fit of clothing, high flexibility, designed for the closest thing to z-combat, protects from falls and accidents
Cons: Can be grabbed onto and possibly ripped off (Velcro straps), lacks neck and back of legs protection
Clothing- This suit it designed to fit over BDUs (Battle Dress Uniform) or a similar uniform (ACUs, TDUs, ABUs, etc.). I prefer ACUs or TRUs, due to better pocket placement and accessibility.
Boots- Military combat boots are a definite necessity. They are made for heavy use in a variety of terrain. Black leather or tan suede, either one is good. Other people have discussed the benefits of leather over canvas, so I won't discuss it other than to say that leather is hotter, but much more waterproof. Blousing (tucking in) your pants into your boots also will provide less fabric to snag on things and for Z's to grab.
Gloves- Gloves are a necessity. Picking the right glove is very much a matter of choice. Personally, I feel that long cuff gloves made with Kevlar fabric (for cut/tear resistance) with high dexterity are ideal. Wiley X Tactical Assault Gloves are perfect, but expensive.
Headgear- As for a helmet, a riot helmet with face shield would be great for the usage I mentioned for the Riot Suit, but not everyday wear. I don't think a ballistic helmet would be necessary, unless you expect renegade human groups trying to steal your supplies, but that is a whole different story. A bike helmet could be good when travelling in case of falls, crashes, etc. A Boonie style hat would be good in sun and rain. A short brimmed BDU style cap would be better than a baseball cap, because the latter can obstruct vision. Bandannas are excellent. Have plenty of them. Or just make them from discarded shirts and the such.
Eye wear/Face Protection- I do not agree with the paint ball mask idea. It would greatly reduce peripheral vision, unless you go for a high end, fog proof, wraparound visor design. Even then, some vision obstruction will be likely. Eye wear is important though. Tactical sunglasses offer a variety of styles, but a wraparound, minimal frame design is good. Look for the kind with some type of padding around the lenses that prevents wind, dust, and fluids from entering your eyes form the sides. Make sure you have a few pairs, because no matter how good they are, they will probably break. Also get some clear lens shooting glasses in a similar style. Some brands offer detachable earpieces that you can replace with a goggle strap. This is very good. Do not get glasses with swappable lenses. You think it sounds good, but it just means they are easier to lose the lenses out of. For the sunglasses, get orange or yellow tint, grey or dark green tint will only limit the acuteness of your vision.
Accessories- Kevlar sleeves with thumb holes can be worn under or over clothing. They provide cut/tear resistance, but do not offer crushing or blunt trauma. Neck gators are EXTREMELY versatile and useful in all climates. If you don't have one, get one now. Even for everyday, non-Z related use, they are great. You can wear them in a dozen different ways, and use them for a variety of things like bandannas. They can cover your mouth and neck to prevent blood splatter getting around your mouth or on your skin.
If anyone wants to discuss this further, you can e-mail me. Check my profile.
-TEBBEN
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A suggestion for someone who's got limited access to proper helmeting, I'd recommend obtaining a paint ball mask and several pieces of cloth such as bandannas. The paint ball mask itself will protect most of your face from hazardous fluids splattering all over you, as well as having the benefit of designating friendlies from friendly fire as previously noted with bandannas. Granted, the portion around the mouth is still open enough to allow fluids to fly in, which is where the cloth comes in. Simply place the cloth over your mouth area, it should act as a perfectly breathable filter and protect you from a splatter or two so long as you switch out the cloth almost as soon as it comes into contact with the fluids. While not perfect it may save your skin a couple times from the inherit danger of fluids getting in your mouth, nose, eyes or other open facial wounds. Also in the event of a military force using chemical weapons simply piss on the cloth, place it over your mouth and nose and run for it (preferably to the north or south where the wind is less likely to blow). While not perfect, and only provides limited protection against gases attacking the respiratory system, the technique did save quite a few lives on the French side during World War I. -Piratelord78
This page is for Protective Clothing only. The other categories that where on the Weapons and Gear page with this category are listed as following:
codeman
i myself would cut up a trampoline and use the material to make a suit.....or at least put it under my regular clothes...
Thrawn5
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If I could not find any protective clothing whatsoever I would put several layers of duct tape on any clothing that I would be wearing, duct tape does not allow your clothing to breath and it can severely inhibit flexibility/speed but it would stop a zombie from puncturing your clothing for a while (have you ever tried to bite/cut through 20 layers of duct tape? it takes a long time).
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Spraymachine
I have designed an ideal bite proof suit with my 2 hours of spare time between classes today.
Hal-5 robo suit
This device has made its way around the Internet and back, but luckily the technology has yet to fall into the Wrong Hands. Weighing about 33 pounds, the suit will nearly double your strength autonomously by tracking electrical nerve impulses through your skin via electromyogram sensors.
These pages are filed under Other kinds of Weapons and Gear and under Weapons and Gear
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zurvivor: As most people won't be near a police station when an outbreak occurs, or capable to raid the station's storage for riot gear for that matter, I was thinking that it should be possible to make fairly good antized-armor out of ordinary PET soda bottles (the larger ones). Cut out pieces and strap on or wear under your clothes. It would be ultralight and I have a hard time believing that any normal non-armed person could penetrate it except for maybe with a broken and sharp bonepipe. If any part of the armor starts to get worn, just find the nearest convenience store or dumpster to replace it!
DOS:
Personal Protection Suit: The ultimate zombie survival gear is- Fire Fighting Turnout Gear. It’s heavy and hot, true, b
ut not that heavy and hot; And it’s bite PROOF; Not “bite resistant” but PROOF, and in fact beartraps would have trouble punching through (they’ll break your bones, maybe draw a little bit of blood, but certainly not bite true through). Be sure to wear it with the collar UP, and taped in place if necessary. An adequate alternative is heavy-gauge coveralls, such as Carharts mentioned above (be sure to sew the legs shut first).
GLOVES: Wear them. Leather work gloves. Not necessarily electricity rated, but certainly work-rated. The longer the better. TAPE these (with duct tape) to the sleeves of your turnouts if you're on the security detail.
Helmets: Again, wear them (unlike gloves, wear these all the time). Fixed visor motorcycle helmets provide the maximum degree of protection, both from biting and from vector agents (spit, blood, etc). If a fixed visor can not be obtained, pin the visor in place by drilling a hole through the rotators and screwing it in place. (Be certain to grind or cut off excess screw.)
DON’TS:
Denims, Tarps, etc: They can be torn and torn off. Do not bother depending your life to these.
“Weather Appropriate” Attire: If you are wearing your appropriate Personal Protective Gear, you will be warm and dry in winter, and with proper caution not overheat in summer.
Non-Encasing Helmets (that is, a helmet that does not fully encase your head, including visor): If it does not fully cover your head, a zombie will bite you no matter how many times you crush his skull, cut off his head, burn his body, AND piss on his ashes- Because his buddy will sneak up behind you and bite you.
Wet/dry suits (especially dry suits): These retain heat (this is what they’re designed to do), and dry suits retain sweat, leading to discomfort at best, heat stroke at worst. Worse, they provide no protective value; zombies can rip those open rather easily.
Hats: If you’re wearing your helmet, you HAVE a hat. If you’re wearing a hat, you have to take your helmet OFF to put the helmet ON in the event of an attack- And will not end up as lunch, but as a recruit. If you wanna become infected, fine- Wear a hat.
“Body Armor” (Kevlar): Totally useless against zombies as they can’t use guns anyways. If you do get into a battle with the only types of enemies Kevlar can protect you from, humans, your problems are a whole lot worse than you thought you knew. However, you would be well-cautioned to wear Class I body armor anyways, especially if going into a known sector of raider and slaver activity.
See also tactics for further discussion of gloves/smooth hands.
Zombie Survivor Fashion Don'ts:
Trench Coat:
In spite of their commonly held notion of being safe, reliable and so forth, trench coats provide very little protective value against infected. What protective value they do provide, against the rain primarily, is easily provided, in turn, by a proper protective ensemble (hard or soft).
Realistically, trench coats are primarily intended as dress-uniform items, and if your situation has risen to the point to justify dress uniforms, then you’re either doing something wrong or right; Either you should be out there hunting the infecteds down en masse, or you did and every last dammed one of them is DEAD again (as nature intended).
Note: The above statements ONLY apply to certain thin fabric trench coats (the ones made for fashion alone)... Now, if your trench coat happens to be made of leather, canvas, or some other durable material (intended for work, etc)... By all means, WEAR IT. It not only makes a nice fashion statement, but it has all of the advantages of a leather coat, plus the leg protection.
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zombie_robbie
Assualt helmet, a leather jacket, light leather gloves, denim jeans, and my army boots.
This is my survival suit and a very effective one in my opinion.
Assault Helmet:
In the situation that you are getting gear specifically for a zack hunt, this type of specialized headgear may prove useful. Full-face/full coverage shell, constructed of lightweight composite material. The shell features an adjustable, six position ratchet anti-fog face shield. The shell design incorporates a modular jaw piece that can be raised with push of a button that is located under the chin edge of the helmet safely opened or closed with one hand and locks in place. This example is the Max Pro Police FC-210 Correctional Helmet, $350. It is a full-face modular helmet, made with a lightweight composite shell with a removable, washable fit pad. Protective bands over the visor protect the wearer against the possibility of a zed smashing out the visor itself, while the visor protects the wearer against spit (which has not been proven not to be the primary vector agent).
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Visorless Helmet:There are many different varieties, most commonly motocross or recreational biking helmets. These are usually composed of a composite of fiberglass, polystyrene and various plastics. They are durable and usually lightweight with ample padding.
They are only to be worn if in a hazard area where there is no risk of infected. Most of these types of helmets are NOT bullet resistant, and will provide almost no protection during close zombie combat; However, the example on the left, a dirt bike helmet, can easily enough be upgraded to a proper helmet (such as the one above), and the one on the right (a bicycle helmet) and be cannibalized for components for another helmet.
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Crash Helmet (with visor)
Designed for protecting your brainbucket in harsh crashes, your average motorbike helmet is common and sturdy. A majority will come with a full visor. Those with hinged visors could be modified for zed protection by pinning the visor in place and attaching protective bands. (such as those on various sports headgear).
The result would be similar to the above assault helmet and likely be easier to explain.
Hat:
There is an extremely wide variety of hats. Rimmed, baseball and dress hats are by far some of the most common. These items are intended for environmental protection and style, little else.
Assuming that your survival is spent out of doors, a simple hat will work wonders to help prevent sunburn and heat stroke. This is a mere inconvenience in most situations, but a bad sunburn can limit the range of motion and make for a distracting injury with the potential for infection.
Cowboy hats are the best kind of hat you can get if you want to protect yourself from the weather, but baseball caps are best if you want at least some weather protection while maintaining a reasonably wide field of vision.
WARNING: A hat will provide no protection versus physical attack; If you are operating in an area wear the chances of a zombie attack is anthing above -100%, wear a helmet instead. It will provide you adequate protection from the sun, and without the risk of getting bitten.
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Bandanna:
A versatile piece of clothing, the banana has many uses as a simple piece of cloth.Worn underneath your helmet, a bandanna can help with the distribution of heat and sweat. Even if not worn, a bandanna can make for an excellent signaling tool, emergency bandage or a number of other uses that may present themselves. If you're trying to keep track of your team, consider color coding them. It's easier to avoid shooting the heads of survivors if they are clearly differentiated from a zombie.
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Chain Mail:
Mail, better known as chainmail, appears to be an ideal armor when choosing to engage a zombie, and would probably do nicely for one who is strong enough to wear it. Chain mail is a series of several thousand metal links, woven together into a piece of clothing. Chain mail commonly comes in a tunic to cover the chest, but there are also appropriate chain mail pieces for the hands, legs, feet and head.
They are designed to resist sharp puncture and slicing motions from a blade (or teeth), and are very effective. Most chain mail is worn over top of thick cotton to absorb sweat and provide a comfort zone. (This thick padding is also part of the armor. Knights were sometimes known to appear as walking pincushions, because they would get hit by arrows that just barely penetrated the mail overtop.)
Although chain mail is very heavy, it feels much lighter when it is worn than when it is carried in a bundle. And even though it feels much lighter when it is worn, the flexibility of the armor means most of its weight rests on the wearer's shoulders. But the heavy weight on the shoulders can easily be redistributed more evenly by wearing a tough, thick belt. The weight can also make agile movements, running, dodging, and lifting all difficult activities for a weak individual, which can easily lead to dehydration and fatigue. Also, although one might think that an additional drawback of chain-mail is the noise it emits (being composed of several thousand individual links of chain, the suit rattles very audibly when any slight movement is made), this might not be true (or is only partially true). It is recommended to get a hauberk (T-shirt), and test this (if you can get a hold of such a thing).
And the most notable downside of chain-mail is availability. Most chain-mail suits are in museums or specialty shops and are not owned by very many private citizens. They can be cost-prohibitive as well, so an acquisition of a new suit may not be worthwhile.
With today's modern alloys it can be lighter than the medieval knights endured. This is option requires a layer of water resistant cloth or leather underneath.
Chain mail has had a minor rebirth in the extreme sport of shark-diving. Divers will don a special type of chain mail when swimming with various breeds of shark to avoid damaging tasting "nips", which sharks commonly do when confused. This type of chain-mail does not corrode, is lighter, and is more expensive. The drawbacks are the same as battle-ready chain mail, but is much more accessible and available in select regions where shark diving is popular.
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Steel Plate Armor:
Steel plate is just that, steel plates which have be worked to form a full suite of armor. Steel plate armor was invaluable on medieval battlegrounds; but modern wearers would most likely find it too cumbersome, since the average moderner lacks the strength, training, and experience necessary to move around in the armor effectively. (Contrary to popular belief, it WAS possible to mount a horse or get up from a prone position while wearing this kind of armor!)Usually worn in the same manner as chain mail, with full cotton tunic and pants underneath to absorb sweat and to increase comfort. Plate armor can also be worn over chain mail for additional protection.
Steel plate is designed to deflect stabbing and hacking blows. The armor can be pierced, but only with considerable difficulty. (This also depends on the style, as well as the quality of the materials and craftsmanship.)
Plate armor has two major drawbacks: the weight, and amount of time required to put it on and take it off. A steel plated suit of armor has so many pieces, that it needs to be put on from the bottom up, usually requiring the help of another individual. As mentioned earlier, the typical 21st-century human does not have the necessary experience to wear this armor effectively. Because of this, retreating from an encounter with a zombie would be quite difficult indeed, as the user would move almost as slowly as the most decayed shambling Romero-style zombie. Furthermore, any kind strenuous combat or activities would most likely render a healthy fit individual fatigued in very little time.
Because of the necessity to move, the armor has gaps at the joints. That is why the armor is built in a way that these gaps are covered by ingeniously-fitted plates. Furthermore, the joints are commonly protected by chain mail. The only thing you really have to watch out for is possible attacks through the visor (but this could be solved by somehow attaching a piece of hard, clear plastic to the inside of the visor). But it should also be noted that these sectional suits have a great number of edges and claps and buckles. A determined undead foe with use of it's fingers could possibly be able to tear a section off, exposing a good deal of the user to infection and injury (But they are only going to get the chance to do that if you are immobilized).
As with chain mail, noise is also an issue with steel plate. The constant reverberation of movement and clang of sections can easily alert nearby zombies to the users location.
Overall, it is probably advisable to only wear select pieces (as was done when a trend towards mobility rather than complete protection came to be, due to the prevalence of firearms), rather than a complete suit.
http://www.armourarchive.org/essays/ tips on metal working and making armour
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Tactical Armor, Flak Jackets, Stab And Bullet Resistant Vests:
Tactical armor, is composed of a number of hardended materials and come in a range of designs and strengths. Various garments are available, protecting different body parts, limbs and organs. The most common item is the vest design to protect the chest cavity and vital organs.The materials included are usually a nylon, canvas or gortex composite skin, with thick heavy woven Kevlar fibers forming the bulk of the vest. Combat-oriented vests usually have removable ballistic plates intended to prevent high-energy projectile penetration. These vests are usually adjustable and are secured with the use of heavy duty Velcro straps or composite plastic buckles. Depending on the model, these vests can weigh upwards of five kilograms.
There are various levels of "soft" armor and "hard" ballistic plates. Soft generally refers to vests made out of the above listed fibers, and can generally stop handgun rounds and buckshot. These can be worn under most clothing, and disguised clothing falls into this category.
Hard armor is not actually self contained armor, but rather ballistic inserts that are deisgned to stop high power rounds.
They come in many forms, from special bullet resistant ceramic materials to simple steel and titanium plates Plates are always worn in front of any bullet resistant material, the reason behind this is explained further below.
The legality of private ownership and general availability of the aforementioned vests varies greatly.
When a bullet resistant material stops a round, the round is not stopped outright, rather, the impact is slowed down by the fabric. There is still much energy transferred through the material, which can have enough force to break bones, rupture organs and other forms of potentially lethal blunt trauma. This is why heavy, but slow rounds, such as shotgun slugs, can kill even when they are stopped by soft armor.
For this reason, even soft armor is worn with trauma pads underneath. However, do not make the mistake of wearing hard padding if you do manage to acquire armor: a vest relies on its material giving way to slow the round. When you have a hard backing, the material to cannot give enough to slow the round, and the resulting compression allows rounds to go straight through.
In a pinch, a set of padding can be improvised from common baseball catcher’s padding. Simply join two such pads together (one hanging off your back, the other your front) to reduce the velocity of the impact to a survivable level.
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Leather Jacket:The Leather Jacket is a common and effective piece of defense against zombie interactions. A genuine cowhide leather jacket is extremely thick and durable. There are many variations and style type, the most common being a biker jacket. For combat effectiveness, one should have a leather jacket with long sleeves; there is very little chance a zombie with be able to penetrate this with either teeth or nails. Being a fairly common item, this is an item which should not be difficult in locating in a time of emergency.
The notable drawback of a leather jacket is the heat. Leather does not breathe and perspiration from underneath will not evaporate. Use in a hot climate is no recommended.
Another concern is sound. Many heavy leather jackets tend to creak and groan when creases rub against each other. Regularly oiling the leather of a jacket will alleviate this issue. Another source of sound are metal clasps and buckles found on many leather jackets. Steps should be taken to remove this source of sound, or risk drawing unwanted attention.
Note: Leather varies in thickness, toughness, texture, etc. Soft leather is like a fabric. Try buying some thicker, stiffer leathers. It should also be noted that you do not want skin tight sleeves (leave a bit of room. That way, if you get bitten, your arm should slip out of the zombie's mouth, and only the clothes are bitten. This can buy you some time easily.
This should not be confused with very loose clothing. If the sleeves are 5 times larger then the thickness of your arm, it is best you not wear the item in question.
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Trench Coat:Trench coats are a controversial but if your smart in how your using it,a good choice of protective clothing. Due to it's reputation of being both rugged and durable, and being worn by many people purely for fashion. As is with swords and bladed weapons, few of them are made for combat anymore because there is no real need for combat-ready weapons. This is the same for trench coats. There are a great many of them that are made from thin, easy-to-rip fabrics, and the leather ones are extremely soft. These are called fashion trench coats.
The kind of trench coat you want is one that was made to be used by 'cowboys', ranchers, and farmers. This is because the ones made for such people are made to be durable and to withstand the stresses of such work.
They are usually made from such materials as: Canvas, thick fabric, or thick/strong leather. All of which are very bite resistant materials.
Trench coats can serve any number of purposes such as protecting you from the weather, protecting you from brush and such around the legs, allowing you to sit down without having to worry about wet pants, and so on. the list is nearly endless.
Make sure you have an option to button up the trench coat, this prevents zombies from grabbing and opening the coat. A belt is also a useful feature.
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Wet-Suit:Tight, waterproof, a little less flexible but almost bite proof. Specifically the shark-divers suit. It's made to withstand shark bites, so it will stand up to a bite from the undead.
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Grizzly Suit:
Designed to protect you against grizzly attackhttp://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280242877954&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123
.
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Chainsaw protective clothing
These are designed to protect you from contact with a running chainsaw chain. Seems like they should be good protection from teeth also.
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General Clothing Guidelines:
Foot-ware is one of the most important pieces of clothing when preparing to encounter the enemy. Foot-ware is important both in combat and in performance and is even more essential when travelling on foot.
Combat, hiking and construction boots provide important protection to the feet and ankle and are usually durable enough to stop most bites to the foot and lower leg. In addition to this, they are generally a good pick for any survival situation. It should be stressed that boots need to be broken in and one needs to be sure that they are completely comfortable in wearing them. Mobility is important even with combat boots and an individual must not stumble or fall over unfamiliar or uncomfortable foot-ware. It should be noted that although steel-toe boots provide protection against impacts, they should not be used are more than an emergency weapon of desperation. A solid kick with steel-toed shoes can actually break the user's toe because of the transmission of energy through the user's foot.
Running shoes, track shoes and sneakers provide little protection against bites and punctures, but their dexterity and availability is unparalleled.
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Tight Clothes:
This is a fairly simple concept, but is largely overlooked as means of defense. Loose layers of clothing provide more material and a wider target. In close combat situations this can mean the difference between a near-miss and being dragged to the ground by a rotten corpse. While this doesn't mean that you should romp about in latex bodysuits, it does mean that cargo pants, over-sized shirts and the like are best left at home.
Besides protective uses, fairly tight clothing means less to snag on and a lesser chance of worn gear slipping.
It would also be remove ornamental bits on your clothes that can snag, or ignore the articles altogether.
Note: There is a point where tight is too tight. Be warned. Make sure your arms and legs can move with relative ease, and (if needed) you can simply slip off the item of clothing quickly. (If a zombie has an iron grip on your shirt, it would be in your best interest to take the shirt off quickly and escape. They can grab onto even the tightest of clothes.)
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Belt:
Again, simple, but again overlooked. In addition to their original intent, which is still quite important, the belt can give you a place to hang holsters, survival packs, and in worst case scenarios can be used as a very effective tourniquet or rigging.In a pinch, your simple dress belt may do, but most are quite unsuited to carry a large amount of gear.
Generally, wider and thicker belts are more stable gear, but try not to get a belt that is too wide for your actual gear.
Duty Belts and similar gear bearing belts
Duty belts come in two forms:
Inner belts are those worn on the pants, where outer ones are the part actually carrying all the gear and connecting to any vests.
Typically, the two types of belt are connected by Velcro and belt keepers.
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Watch:
Keeping track of time can be important, especially if one is trying to coordinate with other survivors. To ensure productivity, regularly compare the times on watches between survivors. Having accurate time between all members can mean the difference between life and death in some situationsAlso, being able to know what time it is can actually do quite a bit to prevent one from having distopic, pessimistic thoughts that come from feeling as though the ordeal with never end.
With analog watches, there is a methodology which can be used to decipher direction of travel, as a solar compass of sorts. In order for this to be effective, the watch needs to carry accurate time.
Digital watches should be chosen very cautiously. The alarm function can be suicide when misused.
For this very reason, analogy watches are preferable. It entirely rules out a very serious risk.
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Weather Appropriate Attire:
In addition to these specifics, remember to dress according to where you're going to be. Wear a heavy coat and dress in layers if your going to be staying in the frigid Canadian north, but don't dress like you would there if one is heading for an island in the Pacific. The regional dress that works best will not be covered for now, though it may be added at a later date.
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Canvas: Canvas is a very sturdy, light weight and reliable clothing, protecting against abrasion and providing reasonable bite protection. Look to brands like Carhartt.
Canvas is a material used in many military capacity for clothing and other textiles because of these properties.
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Gloves:
Gloves are mixed blessing; The proper type of gloves will prevent infected from being able to bite you hands and fingers. Alternatively, they reduce an individuals tactile sense, making more dexterous actions clumsy and difficult.Aside from the obviously benefit of hand warmth, gloves can vary in protection ability. A common leather brand will only protect the user from simple abrasions and scrapes. If one where to actually be bitten, the material would only be a buffer zone to prevent infection. Serious injury, including full digit removal can still occur.
Additional and removal of the gloves to a user's hands is vital in combat effectiveness. To aid donning the gloves, be sure to include large, easily gripped tabs. Practice donning them with both hands; Don the right glove, don the left glove, then doff the right glove, then don it again with the left glove still on. Go back and forth, ensuring the opposite is still on. One would be well-profited to practice all other fine motor skills as well (especially combat skills, such as loading weapons).
While on security detail or expecting a prolonged defense, ensure that gloves are taped in place. Duct tape is ideal for this (that’s the reason CDC, USAMRIID, and other agencies that use Class-5 exposure suits, aka “space suits”, use duct tape to secure their gloves to their suits). An individual is recommend to keep their gloves close at all times; gloves can help a person handle materials and prevent infection.
Select gloves appropriate to your circumstances; Gloves should be bite PROOF, not simply bite resistant. Tests are recommended, general abrasion and punction to see how a pair of gloves reactions to a dynamic circumstance.
As a general rule, leather work gloves are your best bet. Other materials are far less effective at the desired goal. Rubber, latex or silicon gloves should be used only for low-risk biohazard situations such as medical treatment, or worn underneath a pair of leather work gloves as an infection safety buffer. These polyermer-based gloves breath very poorly and can cause discomfort during prolonged use. fabric gloves intended for cold-weather protection can be useful, but are limited in warmer-climates, they also do not possess the flexibility and versatility of a pair of leather work gloves.
Ideally, comfortable protective gloves should be worn during any type of combat. A benign injury on the hand can easily be a vector for infection if not properly treated.
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Denim Clothing:Denim is a material similar to canvas and is tough, durable and resistant to puncture. Pants are the most common piece of denim clothing, but one can also procure tops and even denim gloves. They are widely available and are even fashionable. Denim jeans should be worn sensibly and comfortably, not baggy as to modern style.
This is a very fair trade between protection, comfort and availability.
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Snake-Bite-Proof Chaps:
As mentioned by one of the survivors courageous enough to tell his story in the oral history of the dark times, these work well at keeping both poisonous serpents and undead crawlers from getting under your skin. These can be found in boot form, as gaiters, or as full-length chaps (pictured).---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevlar Cover:
Light and practically bite proof, but Kevlar is designed to protect against bullets so is put on the larges area of your body the chest (not in much danger when dealing with zombies) it would be best to take these vests and cannibalism them for use in sleeves and leggings both more easily bite able targets.
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Tarp:
A thick plastic tarp protects against bites and can also be useful as a shelter. Note: This is only to be used if you do not have an alternative, better form of clothing.
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Motorcycle Gear:Good motorcycle gear is an often overlooked full body zombie resistant armor solution. Easy to obtain from most motorcycle shops and dealerships, it is strong enough to protect the body from a fall at 60 mph, so it is definitely strong enough to protect against a zombie 1-on-1. Most think that this means leather; this is simply not the case as many manufacturers have developed textiles that are inherently breathable, vented, light and just as effective as leather. On top of that the jackets, pants and chaps often have armor built right in that adds a negligible amount of weight, but could be lifesaving. Coupled with a full-face helmet, thick gloves and boots, riding gear is the perfect addition to a zombie survival kit.
http://www.sixsixone.com/Products_661Moto.aspx good stuff and not to expensive leather
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SCUBA Gear:
Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA) is used to breath underwater for depth up to 105 feet (m). It's dry-side counterpart, Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus (SCBA) is used by firefighters the world over. Either 'can' be used on dry land, but SCBA can NOT be used underwater.
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Riot Control Gear:
This stuff can be found in pretty much any police station, not the best of places to go but if you want it thats where to get this stuff. The padding is lightweight durable, designed to go up against knifes, clubs, torches, pitchforks. (the usual angry MOB <-- Zombie) You can move pretty well in the suits, complete coverage, and comes with tactical additives, face shield, arm shield, ammo belt, tactical vest, boots, etc.
 |  |
| Simplified Riot Gear: Will generally only protect the forearms and legs, elbows and knees, in the front; However, they are currently available to the public (about $25-30 USD, depending on supplier). Additionally, it can easily enough manufactured. | Improvised Riot Gear: Finally, the segments or your riot gear that are damaged or lost can be replaced by Baseball Catchers and other sports armor. The gear in question should be tested before hand to ensure it’s compatibility for use. |
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Gauntlets:
Armour worn b
y knights.Pros:
Good protecting from bites, try punching a moldy corpses head with them (wear goggles),found in museum although may be fake so be careful.
Cons:
Depending on metal may break easy, if made with good metal will be heavier than the average person is used to dealing with (though, with extended wear, it will become comfortable), shouldn't be used to clear pathways should only be used if no weapons left (last resort). Also, can be highly uncomfortable, even injurious, if improperly fitted.
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Trojan Ballistics Suit Of Armor
:In early 2007, Hurtubise made public his new protective suit which was designed to be worn by soldiers. Calling it the "Trojan", Hurtubise describes it as the "first ballistic, full exoskeleton body suit of armour." Weighing in at 40 lbs, he claims that the suit can withstand bullets from high powered weapons (including an elephant gun). Hurtubise claims that he has been unable to test the suit against live ammunition because no one is willing to shoot him in it. As well it features a knife holster, and air conditioned helmet.The suit has many features including a solar powered air system, recording device, compartments for emergency morphine and salt, and a knife and gun holster. He estimates that the cost of each suit to be roughly $2,000 if mass produced.
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Hazardous Environment Suit:Now it may be a bit fictional but it could be made. It comes with a helmet so you
you wont get infected. It offers good protection, Its armored with heath monitors and armor monitors. It has automatic morphine administration,
laceration detectors, and is fully movable so no stiff movement. The armor charges with normal D/C Cells so you can instantly recharge it. It has a built-in HUD that monitors your ammunition and extra ammo. The ultimate zombie defense armor its sort of fictional but it could possibly be made when it is needed.Note this armor is used in Half-life 1 and 2.
General Notes: Short hair and tight clothes are the best protection, as this leaves the least possible amount of area a Zombie can grab.
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THOUGHTS FROM MEMBERS OF THE WIKI:
One thing I think people are forgetting to worry about is the damage a zombie can do without biting you. The protection list above me is a great list but no where does it state what a zombie can do to you without biting, A zombie cannot bite through most of that stuff but it cant still bite hard enough to break or fracture a bone. So yes, chain mail will not let the bite puncture the skin but once someone, zombie or not, clamps its teeth on you there can be severe muscle and bone damage. Just giving everyone a heads up :). EnriqueB
That's actually pretty smart, I never would have thought of that. ZombieSlayerRC
In my experience, zombies were of the same strength as your average human, and endowed no extra strength, just the fact no pain is felt. So to say that it will fracture a bone, goes a bit to far, maybe some muscle damage through armour, true. But its teeth, now also rotting, and so forth, will most likely break before breaking your bone, unless you suffer from some form of calcium deficiency, or the zombie is biting you with his molars, then it would be feasible that he could break a bone, but as he would have to have no cheeks to bite with a molar, that, though not infeasible, is highly unlikely. So just imagine a strong pinching pain through leather, probably stopped pretty fast if you use a small hand pick axe as a weapon.. everyone forgets, that its shape will pierce hard rock, so therefore a structure such as a skull is no problem, it would break through, and in most cases damage the brain. causing a fatal, or paralysing shot to your foe, living, or non living . deathsrising
A very good item to have is the "FX-1 FlexForce Riot Control Suit". It is nearly indestructible and is impervious to zombie attacks. You can find them for $429.99 and up (maybe less). They provide protection from blood entering your mouth and eyes, they are a dark color to prevent you from being seen (just remove the white front label), all you need to do is buy the boots, the gloves, face mask, and the helmet. These are a great thing to have in your closet for Z-Day. As soon as I raise me some cash I'm buying me a suit. I recommend you buy one too.
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Also, in regards to clothing and protection of this sort... Leather is nearly always a fantastic choice. The only problem is lack of breath-ability, which may cause dehydration and fatigue. Using leather should be done carefully, and layering of other materials (synthetic in particular) should also be considered for personal protection. And a final note on footwear. Steel toed boots are always a fantastic idea, but if you are worried about fatigue or durability, a standard military issue pair of boots can be a good alternative. These boots may be purchased at any military outlet, and even on line for rather cheap.
-EvacMedic
Something that doesn't seem to have been noted on this page so far is sound. Some of that armor, while also being heavy, constraining and generally impractical, will also make a lot of noise to alert the zombies to your presence. This could be true of leather, trench coats, tarps(who really listed that?), and some of the weather appropriate stuff(though rain should create a louder masking sound). Shoes with a loud footfall should also be avoided. Remember, you are surviving, and that requires stealth in many cases. -McSkullcracken
UnUndead: For facial protection I would suggest safety glasses and a surgical mask. This combo would effectively prevent the blood and guts from getting into your eyes, nose, and mouth, and can be found easily. Also, safety glasses are designed to fit around regular glasses, so if you need glasses to see, these give you eye protection without limiting vision.
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Anton2121: I would have to go with Motorcycle armor. It's light, flexible, and you can run in it. It's made to withstand grinding against asphalt at 50+ mph so I think it could handle a bite. The only downside I can see is it's not bullet proof (might be knife resistant though...) So it's no good for encounters with bandits or raiders. My head gear would be either a non-fog paintball mask (taped on inside so blood spatter can't get through mouth holes) or clear goggles. I would only wear tight black jeans for leg protection. Finally, I'd wear biker style buckle boots for comfort / protection / style. And anything I can find to cover my kneck.
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Here is my input. You can read a little about me in my profile.
Armor- I definitely like the looks of the Flex-Force Riot Control Suit listed above. I would definitely like to have one of these suits available for certain activities, such as when z-contact is expected in close quarters. However, I would not wear it at all times, as it would cause earlier fatigue. I have a couple pros and cons:
Pros: Bite protection (cut and crush resistant), maintains tight fit of clothing, high flexibility, designed for the closest thing to z-combat, protects from falls and accidents
Cons: Can be grabbed onto and possibly ripped off (Velcro straps), lacks neck and back of legs protection
Clothing- This suit it designed to fit over BDUs (Battle Dress Uniform) or a similar uniform (ACUs, TDUs, ABUs, etc.). I prefer ACUs or TRUs, due to better pocket placement and accessibility.
Boots- Military combat boots are a definite necessity. They are made for heavy use in a variety of terrain. Black leather or tan suede, either one is good. Other people have discussed the benefits of leather over canvas, so I won't discuss it other than to say that leather is hotter, but much more waterproof. Blousing (tucking in) your pants into your boots also will provide less fabric to snag on things and for Z's to grab.
Gloves- Gloves are a necessity. Picking the right glove is very much a matter of choice. Personally, I feel that long cuff gloves made with Kevlar fabric (for cut/tear resistance) with high dexterity are ideal. Wiley X Tactical Assault Gloves are perfect, but expensive.
Headgear- As for a helmet, a riot helmet with face shield would be great for the usage I mentioned for the Riot Suit, but not everyday wear. I don't think a ballistic helmet would be necessary, unless you expect renegade human groups trying to steal your supplies, but that is a whole different story. A bike helmet could be good when travelling in case of falls, crashes, etc. A Boonie style hat would be good in sun and rain. A short brimmed BDU style cap would be better than a baseball cap, because the latter can obstruct vision. Bandannas are excellent. Have plenty of them. Or just make them from discarded shirts and the such.
Eye wear/Face Protection- I do not agree with the paint ball mask idea. It would greatly reduce peripheral vision, unless you go for a high end, fog proof, wraparound visor design. Even then, some vision obstruction will be likely. Eye wear is important though. Tactical sunglasses offer a variety of styles, but a wraparound, minimal frame design is good. Look for the kind with some type of padding around the lenses that prevents wind, dust, and fluids from entering your eyes form the sides. Make sure you have a few pairs, because no matter how good they are, they will probably break. Also get some clear lens shooting glasses in a similar style. Some brands offer detachable earpieces that you can replace with a goggle strap. This is very good. Do not get glasses with swappable lenses. You think it sounds good, but it just means they are easier to lose the lenses out of. For the sunglasses, get orange or yellow tint, grey or dark green tint will only limit the acuteness of your vision.
Accessories- Kevlar sleeves with thumb holes can be worn under or over clothing. They provide cut/tear resistance, but do not offer crushing or blunt trauma. Neck gators are EXTREMELY versatile and useful in all climates. If you don't have one, get one now. Even for everyday, non-Z related use, they are great. You can wear them in a dozen different ways, and use them for a variety of things like bandannas. They can cover your mouth and neck to prevent blood splatter getting around your mouth or on your skin.
If anyone wants to discuss this further, you can e-mail me. Check my profile.
-TEBBEN
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A suggestion for someone who's got limited access to proper helmeting, I'd recommend obtaining a paint ball mask and several pieces of cloth such as bandannas. The paint ball mask itself will protect most of your face from hazardous fluids splattering all over you, as well as having the benefit of designating friendlies from friendly fire as previously noted with bandannas. Granted, the portion around the mouth is still open enough to allow fluids to fly in, which is where the cloth comes in. Simply place the cloth over your mouth area, it should act as a perfectly breathable filter and protect you from a splatter or two so long as you switch out the cloth almost as soon as it comes into contact with the fluids. While not perfect it may save your skin a couple times from the inherit danger of fluids getting in your mouth, nose, eyes or other open facial wounds. Also in the event of a military force using chemical weapons simply piss on the cloth, place it over your mouth and nose and run for it (preferably to the north or south where the wind is less likely to blow). While not perfect, and only provides limited protection against gases attacking the respiratory system, the technique did save quite a few lives on the French side during World War I. -Piratelord78
This page is for Protective Clothing only. The other categories that where on the Weapons and Gear page with this category are listed as following:
codeman
i myself would cut up a trampoline and use the material to make a suit.....or at least put it under my regular clothes...
Thrawn5
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If I could not find any protective clothing whatsoever I would put several layers of duct tape on any clothing that I would be wearing, duct tape does not allow your clothing to breath and it can severely inhibit flexibility/speed but it would stop a zombie from puncturing your clothing for a while (have you ever tried to bite/cut through 20 layers of duct tape? it takes a long time).
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Spraymachine
I have designed an ideal bite proof suit with my 2 hours of spare time between classes today.
- Under layer- Class A bio-hazard suit, under $50 and breathable (don't want zombie liquid getting on me) [Found in chemical supply stores]
- Headgear- Depending on the situation, Kevlar hood with a gas mask and a neck racing collar, or a lightweight full face racing helmet with racing collar [Kevlar hood-Army Surplus, Gas mask-Chem/Army supply store, Helmet+Collar-motorcycle shop]
- Torso/legs- Mild fire resistant jacket and pants. They are tough, cut proof (to an extent), and won't let Zack bite through [Some racing shops, Janitor supply shops, Uniform shops]
- Gloves- Damascus tactical gloves are made to not restrict, offer more cut protection than Kevlar, and are fireproof to boot [Army surplus/motorcycle store]
- Knee Pads- Damascus pads provide amazing protection for your knees (you need to be able to run), and are non-slip for grip [motorcycle store]
- Boots- BlackHawk Warrior Wear boots, these are some of the best tactical boots out there in my opinion. They provide good ankle support, can support a lot of weight well, and you can run in them too. [Outdoor stores/Army surplus]
- Accessories- Tactical vest, hip holster, baton holster, hydration pack, backpack, etc. [Outdoor/Army supply stores]
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- Just a thought, what about if you used the hard parts of elbow pads and sewed them together for armor? Maybe?randomcooper
- Equipment
- Weapons and Gear
- TrapsDressing For Success
Hal-5 robo suit
This device has made its way around the Internet and back, but luckily the technology has yet to fall into the Wrong Hands. Weighing about 33 pounds, the suit will nearly double your strength autonomously by tracking electrical nerve impulses through your skin via electromyogram sensors.
These pages are filed under Other kinds of Weapons and Gear and under Weapons and Gear
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zurvivor: As most people won't be near a police station when an outbreak occurs, or capable to raid the station's storage for riot gear for that matter, I was thinking that it should be possible to make fairly good antized-armor out of ordinary PET soda bottles (the larger ones). Cut out pieces and strap on or wear under your clothes. It would be ultralight and I have a hard time believing that any normal non-armed person could penetrate it except for maybe with a broken and sharp bonepipe. If any part of the armor starts to get worn, just find the nearest convenience store or dumpster to replace it!
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE GEAR (Short List)
By Lt Col Andering J Andy REDDSON
DOS:
Personal Protection Suit: The ultimate zombie survival gear is- Fire Fighting Turnout Gear. It’s heavy and hot, true, b
ut not that heavy and hot; And it’s bite PROOF; Not “bite resistant” but PROOF, and in fact beartraps would have trouble punching through (they’ll break your bones, maybe draw a little bit of blood, but certainly not bite true through). Be sure to wear it with the collar UP, and taped in place if necessary. An adequate alternative is heavy-gauge coveralls, such as Carharts mentioned above (be sure to sew the legs shut first).GLOVES: Wear them. Leather work gloves. Not necessarily electricity rated, but certainly work-rated. The longer the better. TAPE these (with duct tape) to the sleeves of your turnouts if you're on the security detail.
Helmets: Again, wear them (unlike gloves, wear these all the time). Fixed visor motorcycle helmets provide the maximum degree of protection, both from biting and from vector agents (spit, blood, etc). If a fixed visor can not be obtained, pin the visor in place by drilling a hole through the rotators and screwing it in place. (Be certain to grind or cut off excess screw.)
DON’TS:
Denims, Tarps, etc: They can be torn and torn off. Do not bother depending your life to these.
“Weather Appropriate” Attire: If you are wearing your appropriate Personal Protective Gear, you will be warm and dry in winter, and with proper caution not overheat in summer.
Non-Encasing Helmets (that is, a helmet that does not fully encase your head, including visor): If it does not fully cover your head, a zombie will bite you no matter how many times you crush his skull, cut off his head, burn his body, AND piss on his ashes- Because his buddy will sneak up behind you and bite you.
Wet/dry suits (especially dry suits): These retain heat (this is what they’re designed to do), and dry suits retain sweat, leading to discomfort at best, heat stroke at worst. Worse, they provide no protective value; zombies can rip those open rather easily.
Hats: If you’re wearing your helmet, you HAVE a hat. If you’re wearing a hat, you have to take your helmet OFF to put the helmet ON in the event of an attack- And will not end up as lunch, but as a recruit. If you wanna become infected, fine- Wear a hat.
“Body Armor” (Kevlar): Totally useless against zombies as they can’t use guns anyways. If you do get into a battle with the only types of enemies Kevlar can protect you from, humans, your problems are a whole lot worse than you thought you knew. However, you would be well-cautioned to wear Class I body armor anyways, especially if going into a known sector of raider and slaver activity.
See also tactics for further discussion of gloves/smooth hands.
Zombie Survivor Fashion Don'ts:
Trench Coat:In spite of their commonly held notion of being safe, reliable and so forth, trench coats provide very little protective value against infected. What protective value they do provide, against the rain primarily, is easily provided, in turn, by a proper protective ensemble (hard or soft).
Realistically, trench coats are primarily intended as dress-uniform items, and if your situation has risen to the point to justify dress uniforms, then you’re either doing something wrong or right; Either you should be out there hunting the infecteds down en masse, or you did and every last dammed one of them is DEAD again (as nature intended).
Note: The above statements ONLY apply to certain thin fabric trench coats (the ones made for fashion alone)... Now, if your trench coat happens to be made of leather, canvas, or some other durable material (intended for work, etc)... By all means, WEAR IT. It not only makes a nice fashion statement, but it has all of the advantages of a leather coat, plus the leg protection.
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zombie_robbie
Assualt helmet, a leather jacket, light leather gloves, denim jeans, and my army boots.
This is my survival suit and a very effective one in my opinion.
Glorschnorv |
Latest page update: made by Glorschnorv
, Yesterday, 8:30 PM EDT
(about this update
About This Update
There should less misinformation about medieval arms and armor. Seriously though, why would any knight wear armor that would prevent him from getting up if he was to fall?!
- Glorschnorv
450 words added 224 words deleted view changes - complete history) |
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Keyword tags:
clothing
leather
protection
trenchcoats
More Info: links to this page
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| RedTeam | Ghillie suits | 5 | Thursday, 11:58 PM EDT by RedTeam | ||
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Thread started: Thursday, 10:03 PM EDT
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would ghillie suits be worthless during z-day, or useful?
Do you find this valuable?
Keyword tags:
ghillie suit z-day
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| jaredstanko | zombies in armor | 13 | Sunday, 9:15 PM EDT by John_234 | ||
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Thread started: Jun 6 2009, 5:35 AM EDT
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i was just thinking, what heppens when a man dons a suit of armor and dies(cop dies, kevlar doesnt work for a guy, etc, swat man dies.) what happens to you when he rises and attack LOL
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| frankchen12 | armors | 5 | Jun 12 2009, 6:30 PM EDT by zombiekilladude12345 | ||
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Thread started: Jun 11 2009, 4:30 AM EDT
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armor car and bite proof vest +ak 47 m16 rpg alot of food and bath room in the car and helper
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