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How to make a Pipe Bomb
Pipe bombs are are an issue that has been over discussed on the internet without the involvement of any effective solid information on how to make a pipe bomb. The information out there is usually very shallow and does not show any real insight into the subject. This article was written with the backing of special forces improvised munitions knowledge.
First a word of warning. Explosives are extremely dangerous devices, forget what you've seen in the movies, if you venture into improvised explosives manufacture the chances are that you will lose your hands and other parts of your body no matter how good you think you are. Life is not a thing to waste on a pipe bomb. Having said that this article is for information purposes only and should not be attempted.
Introduction to Pipe Bombs
Pipe bombs are used as an alternative or to aid the use of conventional explosives. The components of a pipe bomb are very easily available and assembled. Additionally they can be used as a casing for high explosives such as TNT so as to improve the capability of the explosive device. Roughly speaking an explosive filler is placed inside a closed metal pipe and is detonated by fuse running into the pipe, the pressure of the explosive material when ignited builds up very rapidly and the pipe ruptures with great force causing damage. The main components of a pipe bomb assembly are the fuse, pipe assembly and the explosive chemicals used.
The explosive material
The first step to improvising a pipe bomb is to choose an appropriate explosive material as the filler. For simpler purposes match heads or gunpowder can be used though they burn rather slowly and great a lesser rupturing velocity of the pipe than other materials. Permanganate with sugar half half or similarly Chlorate with sugar are easily available materials with the chlorate having a higher explosive effect than the permanganate. Aluminium is a potent fuel and when combined with Carbon Tetrachloride or Permanganate can produce more dangerous explosive filler. These are all of the lesser explosives which however are easier to acquire. A more complicated scenario would involve the use of TNT of plastic explosives as filler which also increases the risk factors involved. The lesser powders are usually ground fine to accelerate their burning rate.
The Fuse
Military detonation cord is best to use as a fuse otherwise cannon or fireworks fuses can be used instead. To make a completely improvised fuse a tape sticky side up can be placed on a surface and sprinkled with ground gunpowder, the powder will stick to the tape and so is a fuse although less reliable than others. It is important to know where to place the fuse in the assembled pipe which is discussed later in the assembly section. Electrical detonation can also be facilitated.
Assembly of the pipe bomb
This consists of a pipe body threaded at both ends and capped on both ends with steel or brass caps containing the filler. The threading should be of the coarse type as fine threading does not resist the buildup of pressure as coarse threading does. For additional resistance a metal strip can be wrapped from one end cap to another so as to prevent the caps from flying off the pipe during the explosion. It is highly advised that an inner soft lining of plastic is used in the pipe to prevent any possible accidents with friction as when the pipe bomb is moved from place to place. The fuse is best placed through a tiny hole drilled on one end through a cap when both sides of the pipe are closed. However if high explosves are used as filler one end is usually left open with the fuse placed in the open end, if the fuse is placed erroneously in the capped end in this case the explosive material will be blasted out of the pipe prematurely. A thick metal pipe would create better fragmentation destruction than a thinly walled one. During the assembly process the important fact to consider is that explosive filler is usually sensitive to friction, so it is important to fill the pipe carefully and avoid having powder between the screw cap and screw threads as the friction could set them off.
How to Make a Flare
Materials Required
Pottassium Nitrate Powder, Aluminium Powder, Shellac, Quart Jar with Lid, 15 inch fuse, wooden stick 1/2 inch thick, Tin can 2 and half inch and 5 inch long, Flat window screen and a wooden block.
Procedure
Place the Pottassium Nitrate crystals on the screen and rub back and forth with the wooden block until processed into a fine powder. Measure 21 tablespoons of the Pottassium Nitrate and add 21 tablespoons of Aluminium powder both into the jar. Cover the jar with the lid and shake vigorously until even. Add 12 tablespoons of shellac and stir with the wooden stick until even. Cover tightly with lid until use.
Usage
Knot one end of the fuse. Wrap the fuse at the base of the can with the knotted end in the center. Pour in the white flare powder over the fuse and ignite the fuse to deploy whithin three weeks.
White flares are commonly used for signalling in low light enviroments.
How To Make A Grenade
Materials Required
Iron pipe with threaded ends. 1 1/2 inch to 3 inch diameter and 3 to 8 inches long. Two iron pipe caps. Explosive or propellant. Non-electric commercial or military blasting cap. Fuse cord, hand drill and pliers.
Procedure
Place the blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and attach by crimping with pliers. To find out how long the fuse cord will take to detonate the blasting cap check a known length of the fuse and calculate accordingly. i.e. if 12 inches of fuse take 30 seconds to burn then use 4 inches for 10 seconds. Screw the pipe cap on one end of the pipe and place the blasting cap and fuse in the other open end so that the the blast cap is in the middle of the pipe. (However if plastic explosive is to be used as a filler then fill the half closed pipe with plastic explosives before inserting the blasting cap, push a wooden stick into the plastic explosive to create a space for the blasting cap then insert the blasting cap into the hole.) Pour the explosive or propellant into the pipe a little at a time and frequently tap the end of the pipe to settle the filler. Finally drill a hole into the second pipe cap large enough to fit the fuse through, wipe the open pipe threads of any filler and screw on the pipe cap with the fuse going through the drilled hole.
This device can be ignited and thrown by hand like a grenade or it can be assembled in the form of a Rocket Propelled Grenade system as in a similar article on the right.
WARNING: This device is extremely dangerous and should not be attempted. This article is provided for information purposes only.
How To Build A Rocket (RPG)
An improvised Rocket Propelled Grenade (RPG Rocket) can be built to launch a grenade to a distance of 160 yards by using a standard 12 gauge shotgun. Materials Required
A Grenade or improvised grenade (see article on the right). A 12 gauge shotgun and 12 gauge shotgun cartridges. Two brass or steel washers having and outside diameter of 5/8th of an inch. A rubber disk 3/4inch in diameter and a 1/4inch thick, leather and neoprene can also be used. A 30 inch long piece of wood about 5/8inch in diameter, should be able to slide into shotgun barrel easily. A tin can into which should fit a grenade and its safety lever. Two wooden blocks about 2inches square and about 1 1/2 inch thick. One wood screw about an inch long. Two nails about 2 inches long. 12 Gauge wads, tissue paper or cotton. Adhesive tape, string or wire. Drill.
Procedure
Punch a hole into the center of the rubber disk large enough for the screw to fit through. Create the push rod by putting the rubber disk on one end of the stick, place a washer on the rubber disk and screw in the wood screw to assemble. The rubber disk and stick should fit tightly into the gun barrel, if not then the rubber disk should be filed slightly until it can fit.
Drill a hole into the wooden block large enough for the push rod to fit tightly in, also whittle a depression of about 1/8th inch on one side of the wooden block so that the grenade will rest ok on the block. Place the base of the grenade on the depression and fasten the grenade securely on the block by using tape or wire. Be sure that the wire or the tape does not cover the hole of the wooden block or interfere in the functioning of the grenade's lever.
Drill a hole in the second wooden block so that it will just slide over the outiside of the gun barrel. Drill a hole of identical size in the center of the base of the tin can. Attach the second wooden block to the inside of the base of the can, hammer in two nails to fasten the block to can by hammering from the outside of the base of the can. Drilling can also be used to insert and bend the nails through the can and wooden block. Insert the barrel into the opening in the can/block until the barrel is past the opening of the can, wrap tape on the barrel an inch from the tip so that when the barrel is returned to the block/can opening it is fastened tightly in place. Also add tape on the other side of the barrel so that the block/can cannot move in either direction. It is very important that the can is fastened securely otherwise there is the risk of the grenade exploding prematurely.
Remove the crimp from the top of a shotgun cartridge with a pen knife. Take out the wads and plastic liners if there. Empty the propellant on a piece of paper, use the pen knife to separate in half and so return one half of the propellant to the shotgun cartridge. Stuff the wads, tissue or cotton tightly into the cartridge.
How to use for Grenade
Insert the wooden stick (non rubber side) into the grenade/block then insert that whole assembly rubber side into the gun barrel slowly until the rubber side of the stick is against the shotgun cartridge. Remove the safety pin of the grenade, place the shotgun at a 45 degree angle against the ground and fire. The grenade will leave the tin can opening the safety lever and will explode after the delay.
How to use for Improvised Grenade
Similar to above except that no tin can device on the barrel is necessary. Light the fuse on the improvised grenade and fire as before. Use at least a 10 second fuse on the pipe grenade mentioned in the article found on the right.
WARNING: This device is extremely dangerous and should not be attempted. This article is provided for information purposes only.
How to make a Detonator
To understand what is a detonator you have to understand that there are two explosives. Low explosive that expands slowly like gun powder can be ignited by a flame or fuse. High Explosives include fast expanding charges like C4, TNT and Plastic Explosives. High explosives have to be set off by a detonator or a blasting cap. In such a case the detonator is considered as the Primary explosive and the High Explosive as the Secondary explosive. Detonators can be electrical, mechanical, chemical or fused. This article will delve into electrical and fused detonators.
Detonators work by releasing an immense amount of heat, pressure and friction at high velocities in a confined place. All these characteristics are obligatory for an effective detonator. There are very few chemicals that exhibit all of the above when ignited by a direct flame one of which is mercury fulminate. A few detonators are a complete system in one, i.e they are composed of primary and secondary charges so as to gain more effective detonation properties, however detonators are not always better because they are more powerful.
Where should a detonator be placed in a charge ? To direct the explosion into one smaller area the explosive would have to be confined in a cone of hard material. The detonator is placed in the peak of the cone and the open peak covered with clay. The direction of the explosion will be towards the larger open end of the cone.
There are three main types of detonators available. J1, #8 and a compound detonator.
#8 blasting cap
Materials required are a 10 inch waterproof fuse, a spent 223 cartridge, smokeless gunpowder from a pistol cartridge, mercury fulminate powder, sulfur, Potassium Chlorate powder. The last two are optional.
Combine 1 part Potassium Chlorate with 1/8 part sulfur. This is mix 1. Mix one part mercury fulminate with 1/2 part mix1. This is the final mix. Fill the 223 shell half full of smokeless gunpowder. Fill the rest of it with the final mix. Put the fuse in the shell and close it off with water resistant glue. This is a #8 detonator which can be ignited by flame.
J1 Detonator
Materials required are a 12 inch waterproof fuse, a spent 223 cartridge, smokeless gunpowder from a pistol cartridge, mercury fulminate powder, sulfur, Potassium Chlorate powder.
Combine 1 part Pottassium Chlorate with 1/8 part sulfur. This is mix 1. Mix 2 part mercury fulminate with 1/2 part mix1. This is the final mix. Fill the 223 shell to the rim with final mix and the rest of the shell should be filled with smokeless powder. Place the fuse in the 223 shell, pinch and glue.
Compound detonators
Compound detonators are very useful in a situation with negative environmental factors such as dust, rain, heat and cold. These detonators are a sure way of being sure the charge goes off.
Materials required are 15 inch fuse, Mercury Fulminate, smokeless powder, Potassium Chlorate and a spent 30 06 shell.
Mix 1 part mercury fulminate with 1/8 part Potassium chlorate, this is mix 1. Mix 1 part mix1 with 1/8 part smokeless powder. This is the final mix. Put the final mix in the shell. Insert the fuse, pinch and seal.
Electric detonator
To convert any of the above detonators into an electric detonator an electric ignitor as used for rocket engines is used. This can be found at hobby stores. The ignitor can be inserted instead of a fuse and sealed but not pinched in the shell.
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