This is my personal Sig 556. As it sits it has: Trijicon TX30 reflex sight w/ Burris XTR 30mm rings, MATEC BUIS sights, A1 flash-hider, Magpul CTR (mil-spec tube) stock, and Troy Industries handguards.

It is chambered for 5.56 NATO cartridges, and will also fire .223 Remington.

My Review:
. This weapon has approximately 2,000 rounds ran through it so far. I have not had any kind of failure or jam. The rifle is always cleaned thoroughly after each weekend. I am using Prvi Partisan 62 grain, FMJ ammo fed by C-Products 30 rd. magazines. The rifle has eaten a couple of boxes of Wolf and Brown Bear 62 gr (FMJ & HP) for reliability testing with no failures.

. Using the Trijicon sight, I am getting about 3 inch groups at 100 yards (three rounds per group). Some claim to be able to hit a golf-ball at 1000 meters with their "sniper rifle", but I am being honest here. The accuracy is plenty good enough for me, and with proper ammo and a better shooter the gun is capable of 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards. We have a range set up in one of our fields that has a man-sized steel silhouette at 400 meters, and this gun will hit it 4 out of 5 times with me behind the trigger. I can't complain too much about accuracy or reliability.

. It is operated by a gas piston which keeps the bolt area much cleaner and cooler than compared to the Direct Impingement system of the AR-15. It is arguably also more reliable.

. The biggest gripe of the gun (at least on the internets) is that it is front heavy. Yes, it is a little heavy, but get over it. If you think this gun is too heavy then you ought to try carrying around a M240 machine gun for a couple of days.

. Gripe #2 is that it comes with crappy iron sights from the factory. This is correct. But no big deal to me, since most people put their own aftermarket sights on anyways.

. Overall I would recommend this gun to anyone who wants AK reliability, with near AR accuracy. I give it 4.5 out of 5 zombie heads.




Example of sight picture with Trijicon TX30: And through the irons:
(please note: I was using a crappy camera, the
chevron is much more clear and bright than it
appears in this photo)




Teardown by the numbers:


1. Pop the rear pin and separate the lower and upper receivers.


2. Push down on the charging handle retainer and pull out charging handle.


3. Remove bolt carrier assembly.


4. Push down on gas piston retainer, rotate gas adjustment knob, and remove gas piston.


5. After piston is removed, push down the retainer again, twist and remove the gas tube.








6. Rotate bolt to the rear, twist and remove bolt.




Disassembly is complete. Installation is just the reverse order.

CLEANING:
. As far as cleaning goes I feel that the most important part is the chamber. I have not had any jams with this weapon, however the chamber is usually the first thing to cause jams. The chamber is the part of the barrel that the bullet casing loads into. If you do not have a chamber brush you can scrub it out with a 9mm bore brush just as effectively.
. The second most important part is the bolt face / extractor. I use dental picks to reach up where the extractor grabs the rim of the casing and scrape any caked material out.
. The next important part to get is the gas piston. Again I use a dental pick and scrape out all of the carbon from around the end of the gas tube that the gas adjustment knob sits in. I also use a shotgun bore brush to get most of the carbon out of the gas tube. Make sure and wipe/scrape the carbon off of the actual gas piston also.
. Make sure and brush and swab the barrel. Use a .223 bronze brush (not steel), spray with CLP, and PULL from the BREECH to the MUZZLE. NEVER EVER push a cleaning rod through a barrel!!!! EVER. I do this about 4 or 5 times, and then follow up with a couple of patches. It is important to keep the inside of the barrel clean so it will not rust. This barrel is not chrome lined, so it will rust/corrode if you do not keep it clean (it will only rust/corrode if truly neglected though.)
. Use patches and CLP to wipe out the inside of the upper and lower receivers.
. I did not include instructions for cleaning the firing pin. It is rather difficult to remove, and should really only be removed every once in a while to wipe down. It doesn't get very dirty, and the chances of losing springs and parts are pretty high if you remove the firing pin from the bolt.
. To finish off I spray the whole gun down with a light coat of CLP, and then wipe it all off with patches or rags.
. While cleaning, always check parts for wear and breakage. No matter the quality of the weapon, things just break once in a while. Keep an eye out for any bolts working loose also.


OPERATION:
. As far as operation goes, it's pretty straight-forward. Load magazine, pull charging handle back, flip safety to the down position (fire) and it's ready to go. The gas pressure is adjustable, and has two positions. 12 o'clock is the normal operation position, and if rotated clockwise to the next "click" it will allow in more gas pressure. I have never had to mess with this, and no one else should either unless they are shooting a truly dirty weapon.
. I zero all of my rifles to 300 meters. Normally, this is 25 meters for most rifles. However since this weapon's sights are a little higher than on an AR style weapon I zero it at 50 yards. This gives me a 300 meter zero + or - a couple of inches.

The sight I use runs off of fiber optics (ambient light) so it is always on and ready to go.

This review was written by: possumblaster