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FOREWARDMy primary concern as I'm writing this article is to give some foundation of education with the use of the European short sword and all similar variations (including the Roman Gladius and Spatha, Celtic sword, all variation of Viking swords, and most single-handed Medieval swords) that use one hand grips and are typically employed with the shield. The sword requires considerably more finesse and training to use properly than does a firearm or knife. To use a sword well requires considerable amounts of research, training, practice and patience. If you have experience with any Chinese, Japanese sword arts (Iaido, Kendo) or Korean Gumdo.... most of this information is not going to provide you anything useful as a completely different tactical philosophy is employed by European swords, as the latter is one that stresses function over form.This guide takes several factors into consideration. First, it does not cover any of the sword safety rules. Why? Because it is YOUR responsibility to learn these things, not mine to teach them. If you consider using a sword or a machete, you should also be required to pursue the knowledge of their safe use and follow those rules exclusively. Using sharp metal objects is a dangerous undertaking and you are responsible for your own safety. Second, this tutorial assumes that you have access to a suitable, "weapons grade" sword or machete. I use the words "weapons grade" in substitution of "battle ready" as the latter has taken on a sales context and weapons labeled battle ready are often not safe to be used and will break the first time they are struck against something sturdy. Third, this guide does not teach you how to "sword fight" with someone else who is also using a sword. The intricacies of mano-a-mano combat cannot be taught on an internet forum and require considerable personal training with a licensed instructor to be performed safely. This guide focuses on the correct method to cutting a hard object, like tatami or undead body parts.If you are serious about purchasing a sword for use against zombies or are interested in learning how to fight with a sword, I suggest seeking professional instruction from a reputable source.LIABILITYI, LJ126, accept no liability and will be held harmless should you injure yourself or someone else using the information contained within this guide. All information contained within is written as if it were being performed in an empty vacuum, where harm to no object could possibly take place. Anybody who uses this information, in practice, form or thought shall be held 100% liable for their actions regardless of outcome. If you do not agree (or if your legal guardian does not agree) with this liability waiver, please do not continue reading - close this link or go to a different page or web site. By continuing to read this page or practicing the information contained within, using real or facsimile of real swords, is an affirmation of your agreement with this liability waiver.(LJ126)25 MAR 2009SECTION ONE: SELECTING A SUITABLE SWORDLet's face it, if you have made the decision to use a sword or a machete as your primary offensive tool against the undead you're going to have to buy one before "Z-Day" because you're probably not going to happen to find one in someone's home and the level of crafting skill and equipment required to make one is typically well beyond what the average DIY'er is going to have at their disposal. This means you're going to have to shop for one suitable for the rigors of combat - and believe me, most aren't ready for this sort of use. In the sections below I have outlined what you need to consider before buying a sword and advice for selecting one.CONSTRUCTIONMax Brooks indicates clearly in the Zombie Survival Guide that "battle ready swords" often times are not battle ready at all, but he does not explain WHY they are not battle ready in detail. Brooks also does not indicate what criteria and requirements a sword must have to be considered a real sword, which leaves the requirements of one rather ambiguous. These same rules apply to machete as well. In order to be considered a "fully functional" sword/machete, it must have: 1. Blade and tang that are one contiguous piece or forge welded 2. High carbon content in the steel used to manufacture the sword 3. Blade must be properly heat treatedThe "tang" of a sword, machete or knife is the part of the blade that the handle is fixed to, either rivets, bolts, screws, pegs, a screwed-on pommel or by peen. The blade and the tang must have been forged together as one solid piece in order for it to be durable enough for use as a weapon. The tang must also be large enough to absorb and sustain during the vibrations of use that over time can cause serious metal fatigue. Tangs that have been affixed by MIG/TIG welds are simply not durable enough for use. It is not uncommon for the welds to break while the sword is being swung, sending the blade flying at high speed. The really scary part is that sometimes these blades have been sharpened!This is clearly a safety concern and may serious injure or kill someone or cause serious property damage. While it doesn't sound like a big deal during a zombie pandemic, during training it would be horrible!Stainless steel is perfectly acceptable as the base material for frying pans and other cookware, small knives, outdoor hinges, small springs, keys... things that aren't going to wear quickly because of the way that they're used or because they're very small. Stainless steel when used for swords or machetes is simply no good because it is entirely too brittle, regardless of how it has been heat treated. The reason it is so brittle is because of its "stainless" nature; it is an alloy of steel and nickel, the nickel making it resistant to rust. Note that the coin, the nickel, does not rust or tarnish. There is no suitable grade of stainless steel for use in swords. The sickening part is that many unscrupulous sales folk will label swords that have been made out of stainless steel as "battle ready" when they know that it will shatter upon impact with a hard object, likely injuring the user. High carbon steel (1040 to 1095) or tool/spring grade steel is used in any truly "battle ready" sword. Because high carbon steel has no nickel or chromium in it, it is susceptible to rust and must be cleaned. Touching the blade is considered a no-no as the oils in your fingers can cause permanent damage to the finish of the blade. After cleaning, the sword should be lightly oiled with a good machine oil to protect it from moisture damage.Heat treating determines the crystalline composition of the metal, and is essential for determining the durability of a type of metal. Heat treatment determines how soft and malleable a metal will be, or how hard and brittle it will become. Some swords (such as real katana and the kukri knife) have been differentially hardened, which is a specific type of heat treatment that controls the cooling rate of the metal after being heated. Cooling the sword quickly in water makes the metal hard, which is important for a good edge. Cooling the metal in the air slowly makes the metal less crystalline in nature and softer, which makes the metal more shock absorbent. A good sword will have forced into a spot between the two (anywhere from 50 to 55 HC) on the Rockwell Hardness scale by a competent metal worker.If the sword does not have the three factors above listed, regardless of all other factors, the "sword" is not functional. In fact, it's not a sword... it's a sword decoration and should be hung on a wall and never used. There is nothing wrong with owning a sword for decoration but don't convince yourself that you own a functional sword when you don't. It could cost you your life.Other important considerations when purchasing a sword are:Does the handle/grip of the sword fit well in your hand?How is the handle affixed to the tang? Threaded, pinned, glued or peened?Is the blade sharpened or is it dull? If it's dull (but meets the above requirements) it can be sharpened but that's extra work.Do all of the fittings (hilt, pommel) fit well? Are there any rattles when you shake the sword?How are you going to carry the sword? Does it come with a scabbard/sheath?BAD SWORDSSwords made with welded-on "rat tail" tangs are the most dangerous. The video below shows what happens when the welds break, which is usually within several swings of the sword.... MANUFACTURERSThere are some manufacturers that are better than others in terms of creating period correct battle ready weapons. Here is a brief list of some of these manufacturers. Please note that some of these manufacturers also produce swords that should be used for display purposes only, so make sure to read the product description carefully to make sure that the above prerequisites have been met. You can also visit the Sword Buyer's Guide and search for a sword review there.ALBIONANGUS TRIMCHENESSCOLD STEELDARKSWORD ARMORYGENERATION 2HANWEIMASAHIROMUSASHISTRONGBLADEVALIANT ARMORYWINDLASSFor more detail of the various manufacturers listed above, visit the Sword Manufacturer's Guide, the sister site of the Sword Buyer's guide for more details. Contained within those two sites are many useful references including links, reviews and more!STYLE OF SWORDThere are many different kinds of swords through out history, depending upon the needs of the user and use of the weapon. The earliest and most basic swords were relatively short and resembled long daggers, and through time with advances in metallurgy and armor these swords became more specialized for different tasks.This tutorial/guide caters to those who are interested in using any sword that has a straight blade and will only allow for a one-handed grip. The reason I cater to that style of sword is because in any HEMA or ARMA system, as well as the SCA, this is the first weapon that is taught - though in the SCA you are taught to use it with a shield. It uses techniques that easily translate to all other sword types, including those of Eastern Asian cultural decent as the cuts and parries are very similar. Lastly, I've chosen to use this style of sword because its the easiest to learn, which is why its my favorite style.If you're on a very strict budget, one of the least expensive and fully functional sword of this type is the Windlass Steelcrafts "Italian Short Sword" which is available at www.kultofathena.com for approximately $130.00 USD at the time this article was written, though that price does not reflect shipping expenses. I attempted to place a link but for some reason, it isn't working. To see the sword, go to kultofathena.com, select swords, then medieval swords, and scroll down through the list. You can't miss it.EDIT: There may be less expensive models available since the writing of this article.The Italian Short Sword has all of the features we are looking for; the blade is consists of reasonably high carbon (1065) steel, has a beefy full tang and all Windlass brand swords are heat-treated well. The Italian Short Sword would be an excellent sword because its not extremely long and it designed for slashing, but simply looking at the sword's blade geometry shows that it would also be effective at stabbing and lunging. All of the fixtures attached to the sword are also made of steel, which means that everything is going to be very durable. The sword is held together with a threaded nut pommel, which may come loose but it does allow for an owner to easily disassemble it for inspection and cleaning. The sword comes with a very basic scabbard, though it appears that you will have to construct or purchase your own retention system to wear the sword.The only downside is that the blade comes blunted and would require the purchaser to either opt for the retailer to sharpen it (not recommended) or to sharpen it themselves. The latter can be done one of a few different ways - the easiest way being to purchase an "Accu-sharp" from Home Depot ($15) and run it down the blade 20 or 30 times on each side of the blade, from cross guard (hilt) to tip. Though not the best blade its certainly sufficient to do the job and it's easy to touch up the blade after it dulls. Many people believe that this is an ineffective way to sharpen a sword, and while I find that it's imperfect, it does do an adequate job.SECTION TWO:TECHNIQUE 101This section will cover how the sword is to be warn on the body, some basic tips for safety and a few basic sword etiquette rules. The second part of section two will go into detail about stance, and introduce several basic cuts. The last section will discuss how the sword should be maintained and what products are good for use on a sword.GLOSSARY OF TERMINOLOGYARMA / WMA: Association of Renaissance Martial Arts / Western Martial ArtCrossguard: Longitudinally positioned piece that keeps the hand that holds the sword from sliding up to the blade.Etiquette: The conduct or procedure required by good breeding or prescribed by authority to be observed in social or official life (Merriam-Webster's Dictionary)JSA: Japanese Sword Arts; not covered in this articleOn-Side: Coming from the direction of your dominate hand, which is holding the weapon. Typically coming from right side towards the leftOff-Side: Coming from the direction of your passive hand, though it is not holding the weapon. Typically coming from left side to the rightParry: Using your weapon defensively to redirect an opponent's attack. Not necessary against the undeadPommel: The fitting on the bottom of the sword's grip that is used to counterbalance the tip of the sword.Scabbard: Leather or wood sword carrying device worn on the hip, uncommonly over the shoulder. Similar to a firearms holsterShield: Metal or wood blocking device. In European tradition, the off-side hand carried a shield into combat for defensive practices, though this is not addressedETIQUETTELEARN THE RULES OF SAFE SWORD HANDLING - BOTH THE EUROPEAN AND ASIAN TRADITIONS OF SWORD ETIQUETTE SHOULD BE COMMITTED TO MEMORY. DO NOT HANDLE A SWORD UNLESS YOU PRACTICE THESE RULES EVERY TIME YOU HANDLE A WEAPON. The sword should be worn on a belt or suspension at waist height on the left hip and the handle/grip should be leaned forward slightly. If you live in an area where you cannot own or wear a pistol (or do not intend to wear one) you could also wear it on the right hip but this is not as easy to draw. Gloves should be worn when wearing a sword, as this is tradition and practical as it helps ensure a good grip on the sword's grip. I've trained for some time now using ARMA / WMA techniques and you'd be amazed how many times the training sword has flown out of my hands.This etiquette also applies to any other form of bladed weapon you intend you carry, including a machete - which is effectively a modern short sword, though it lacks the defensive components and has an inferior balance for use in combat.TRAININGNever practice or train with a live sword as it's simply unnecessary. The only time you should swing a sharpened live sword is when you are performing test cuts or you are using the weapon in combat with an opponent you intend to deprive of life and limb. It is beneficial to purchase a waster (wooden sword) or even a boken (wooden katana) for practicing form. A better alternative would be to construct a boffer sword out of PVC and foam insulation, which would be more than durable enough to withstand training. There are instructions online for constructing a boffer sword.Do not ever hit someone with a wooden sword, as a blow to the head with a wooden sword swung hard could be extremely harmful; it would be akin to striking someone in the head with a baseball bat.STANCEThe stance that is adopted is referred to as Offensive Stance 1 (OS1). This stance is optimized for offensive fighting and delivering decisive blows against an opponent. To assume this stance, you must:Stand facing your opponent, with them slightly to the left of your center-line.Draw your sword from it's scabbard with your "on" hand. Grip firmly with your thumb, index and middle fingers only.Place the blade's flat (the shiny, flat side) on your right shoulder, with the blade's tip hanging out over your back.Point the center of the pommel at your enemy/opponent's forehead.If you were using a shield, the shield would be held up in your left hand, close to your body and angled towards the enemy at the bottom; however, a shield would only be of limited effectiveness for someone who is also carrying firearms and large quantities of ammunition as it would simply slow them down. A shield would be very beneficial for those who cannot own or carry firearms but this article is not going to address shield use at all.When using a real sword, you need to mind the edges of the blade. Remember to always move the sword slowly around your body, only slicing away from it. Accidents that happen with swords are usually terrible and permanently maim or kill the person who happens to be wounded by the negligence of the wielder of the weapon. It is a tool of war - and that Hollywood crap doesn't cut it. Be SAFE, use common sense at all times.
ATTACK ONE: ON-SIDE "HIGH" STRIKEAs implied by the name of the strike, this blow (assuming you are right-handed) comes from the right side, and is aimed high - at the neck or the head of the undead enemy. It is also called a "flat snap" in the SCA because of the snapping motion of the wrist during the strike. In a sword fight with an armored opponent, most sword combination will begin or end with this strike as it is fast and extremely accurate - with practice it can be delivered efficiently with a lot of force, enough to slice through bone and cartilage. It is the primary and most basic attack used by pre-Renaissance style swordsmen.Please note that the stance used in the video to the right is a defensive stance, and is not the OS1 outlined above. For those of you interested, the stance he has taken is considerably slower to attack but much better for defending an attacker who uses a sword. The stance used at right does NOT apply to zombies as zombies thankfully don't use swords. He does perform the "flat snap" mostly correctly though and gives you some idea as to what the strike should look like.Also note the noise that it makes striking the telephone pole (an excellent pell). Pretty good for a rattan sword wrapped in duct tape, striking a telephone "pell" wrapped in carpeting! No, this is not me doing this video.When performing the On-Side "High" you are doing a bunch of awkward motions with your arm very quickly, so at first it does not feel natural at all. However, once the muscle memory for the attack has been made your proficiency with the strike will become like second nature, enabling you to use it extremely accurately and perform it very quickly. This attack (like all sword attacks) should be learned and practiced at one-half speed, then progressively performed more quickly until it can be done correctly repeatedly at full speed.First, you want to assume the above outlined OS1, sword in position. In one solid motion, you extend you hand out straight forward as if you're throwing a punch, then at near full extension you "snap" your wrist 90 degrees to the right while snapping your bottom fingers closed onto the grip of the sword. While the blade is being snapped forward, you also want to turn your shoulders and hips into the strike as well, to increase the amount of mass propelling the blade. As you see in the video, this brings the point of the blade forward directly in front of you. This attack is more than enough to slice through a human/zombie skull and damage the vital brain area and as an example, should be enough to work off of to developing the other sword attacks. I could go into more techniques if requested by readers.

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LJ26's Weapons and Practical Skills Corner by (LJ126) is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 United States License.
Based on a work at www.zombiesurvivalwiki.com.