I’ve had a lot of personal requests from people on this site asking me to make a "real" Zombie survival guide.
As we have all pointed out Max Brooks is a good guy but not exactly what you would call a survival expert by any means. I have created this page so that you can help me to format the stupid thing and for content (if your ideas don’t suck!!). I will include an explosives section and a full detailed weapon strip/clean section as well as shooting techniques, working malfunctions, movement tactics, engagement, hostile retreat tactics, and barricading. I will also attempt to cover re-supplying, hand to hand techniques, improvised weapons, and basic survival skills.
If any of you have any GOOD input I would like to see it. Please edit the page instead of staring a thread and leave your wiki name so I can credit you accordingly!!

There is no argument here; I am the judge of the information that will be put in the book so if you think what another person says is stupid SAVE IT for another page!


BYATES: I would like to recommend a Halligan bar instead of a crowbar. This is a tool used by fire and rescue personnel for forcing entry into abuilding. One big advantage over a crowbar is the spike on one end.



This could deliver major head trauma.
I would advise against explosives, they take skill and practice to use without taking out yourself or something you would like to keep around. I have had training and experience with explosives and would not want to use them. Skill and training to develop skill are the essentials to survive. Once you have learned a skill you need to practice, and practice a lot. Reading a book or a blog will not give you skill; you need to practice until you have learned the skill and practice more to keep the skill. The best way to learn and retain a skill is to be a member of a group, and learn and practice as a group. This can provide reinforcement and correction.

No one else adding to this page?
OK, how about some tools for building or reinforcing your barricade. If you are building a barricade, I would assume you are stationary and have or have looted the tools. So, weight is not a problem.
1. Hammer - pick one that feels good in your hand, too heavy and it tires you out, too light, it takes too many blows and tires you out. I like a fiberglass handle, you might like wood or metal. Stay away from the tubing handles weak and bend and break easy. (rocks work, so does the back of that camp ax!) Have you ever tried using either of those for driving many nails? A hammer is designed to drive nails quickly, and you do want to work quickly.
2. Screwdrivers - three straight, three philips, and for our Canadian friends three Robertson. These are standard sized fixed screwdrivers, no stubbies, and no interchangeable bits. You can add those later. Sizes, straight to fit eyeglass frame screws, 1/4" straight, and the biggest, strongest straight you can find (use as a pry bar, poking holes in things, etc.). Phillips, a #1 and two #2. Robertson, I will leave to someone familiar with them.
(There’s screwdrivers on a multi-tool and they also go with the drill) Again, have you ever tried driving many screws with a multi-tool? Redundancy is good. A tool designed for the job is good.
3. Crowbar - I like a four foot bar. Include a pry bar here too, looks like a flat crowbar about half a meter long.
(To much weight, small bar will do just fine for all tasks!) That is why I said a four foot bar, small enough to weigh little, big enough to move fairly large things. I have bars from 18" to 6' long, and the 6 footer has been too small at times.
4. Wrench set - preferably English and metric sizes. Useful for taking thing apart for re-purposing.
5. Socket set - as with the wrench set.
6. Hand saw - You have to get that lumber to size some way. Either push or pull type, get quality.
7. Hacksaw - You will need to cut metal, get an assortment of blades, they break easy.
8. Pliers - slip joint about 6 or 8 inch, Channel-lock about 10 to 12 inch, side-cutter about six inch, bolt-cutters about 3 foot, fence pliers(optional)(pick a tool dude this is heavy stuff!!) Are you on foot and carrying this or at a fixed location or driving? adjust the tool load to fit the situation.
9. Drill - electric(corded or cordless) if you will have power. Manual for worst case. Drill bits, assorted for wood, metal, concrete.
10. Crosscut saw - for those big pieces of timber. Or, firewood.(are you joking?) You have a problem with a zombie roast? Lure them into an improvised corral, floor of wood, wall metal or stove, flame on. Dry swimming pool or basement would be good; with the basement you could even collapse the floor above on them.
In the States look at Stanley, Craftsman, or Kobalt (Lowes) on the low end. There are other good and better brands on the market, but these will give you a standard to get started.

Stuff to carry in your car, truck, SUV. Two-wheelers add your own list. This is a general purpose list.
The Basics:
* First Aid Kit
* Road flares (6+)(pick one, road or gun!) Why? Different purposes.
* Safety Vest(s) - for working around a car on the highway
* Roadside reflective markers (triangle, etc)
* Fire Extinguisher
* Small shovel/spade/entrenching tool
* Trouble light (ideally cigarette lighter powered)(see both cell phone or maglite) Why run down their batteries when have a big battery available that can power a useful light?
* Duct Tape
* Maglite (kept in the actual car itself)
* Jumper Cables
* 2 qts of oil
* Cell phone charger for the cigarette lighter
* Fuses
* Cable Ties
* Antifreeze
* Electrical Tape (duck tape is fine for all applications) Duct tape is usable for many applications, electrical tape is usable for many applications, redundancy is good.
* Lighter
* Some kind of food (MREs, etc) that will do well in heat and cold
* Trash bags (????) Holding trash, improvised raincoat, carrying water, keeping you off the ground while changing a tire, etc.
* Fleece blanket
Optional Things
* 100' Parachute cord
* Work gloves
* Small camp axe
* Marine Air horn (why????) There are times when you might want to make a lot of noise; this is louder than a car horn and portable. Maybe signal rescuers?
* Flare gun
* CB Radio/HAM Radio
* Fix a flat foam
* Empty small gas container
Winter Add-ons
* Small Snow Shovel (see E-tool above) You ever try to move snow with an E-tool?
* Ice Axe (again, see E-tool above) Not a substitute.
* De-icer spray (because we all know your to lazy to build a nuke with the above equipment) Speed is irrelevant to you?
* Scraper (drivers license, credit card, CD case etc.) Yes, improvise something when you could have the tool for the job.
* Gas Dryer/antifreeze
* Kitty Litter (Small bag) - for traction
* Space/Emergency Blanket
Gilligan's Island Rules of Survival - byates
1. Be inventive and use what is at hand - don't cry for what you don't have, get on with the job of surviving.
2. Don't make stupid mistakes; they could make the difference between life and death.
3. Don't give up hope, you lose hope and you lose your motivation to go on.
4. Just because you are in survival mode doesn’t mean you have to be uncomfortable.
5. It rains on the rich and poor alike, disasters don’t play favorites. Remember the Howells.
6. If you don’t have it with you when disaster strikes, it won’t help you. Whatever you have with you is your survival kit.
7. Knowledge is powerful. Where would they have been without the professor?

Office Kit - byates
a few things to keep handy at work, school, etc.
FRS radio 3AA - so you can stay in touch with your partners, in an emergency cell towers overload fast.
Preprogrammed handheld bearcat scanner 4AA (laminated card of relevant freqs also) - keep track of the official response, if any. Flashlight 2AA
Cell phone - long range communication, texting is more reliable than voice, let the phone keep trying to send until it succeeds.
Spare batteries AA x 12 Map and compass - plan alternate routes, GPS that runs on AA's could also be used.
Gerber folding knife - good luck with having this legally at school, or many work places.
Tyvek suit/N100 mask/glove kit in gallon ziplock
Small first aid kit with medications - what happens if you run out of your prescriptions?
20oz bottle of water - or more than one. Small folded up ponchosnacks (2days)
Granola bars
Datrex bar - this does taste nasty, so you know something will be left for last.
Leather gloves -
Pr spare socks
Pr sturdy tennis shoes
Hat (pullover)
Emergency blanket
Binoculars
Flashlight 2D & spare batteries
Chemlights
120ft rope & carabineer - OK this is a stretch.
Leatherman
Am-Fm radio - AA powered, wind-up rechargeable, may double as cell phone charger.
Pack to carry it.

Hiding places for school, home and office – Drewblet

These are all tried and tested. Byates pointed out that it could be hard to get a Gerber knife into school or an office, so I decided it might be good to list some hiding places.

School:

• Under keyboards. A

• Between books. A

• Inside books. A


• Spray paint a piece of cardboard, and making a secret compartment at the bottom of
lockers. A

• Under your pencil tray, if you have one in your desk drawer.

• Or, clean out an empty Chap Stick tube and keep small papers in there. Whenever you
need to get them out, just twist the bottom. This is a great way to pass notes in class
right under the teacher's nose.


• Obtain a dark plastic toothbrush holder and tape it to an inside corner of you locker, so
it's not easily seen. This will probably be near the hinges. You can hide keys, money, or
other small items inside. A

• If you have a low shelf in your locker, you can glue a magnet to a small, flat, lidded
box, put your things in there and stick it to the underside of the shelf. This also works if
your school has half-length lockers and yours is on the bottom: you can place it on the
"ceiling". A


Making maps of all your hiding places is a good idea. This way you can keep track of your stuff, especially if your hiding places are spread out or there are lots of them. Hide your maps well. You don't want someone to find it and then find all of your stuff, do you? Hide them behind posters (this can be a little unsafe), behind pianos, underneath your computer monitor stand, or anywhere that is not insanely obvious. Don't hide them under the carpet, under your mattress, or in/under a drawer. These are the first places snoops will look. If you tape an envelope to the back of the drawer, it will be relatively safe.



Office:
(NOTE: every school hiding place that has an ‘A’ after it is also applicable to certain office situations)

• If you need to hide a map or note, roll it up tightly and slip it inside a pen. Either wrap it
tightly around the ink cartridge or have a pen without ink specially designated for this
purpose.

• Inside a stapler; put it in the area that holds staples. Make sure the stapler is off in a
place where no one will borrow or use it.

Crap, I can’t think of any more places.

Home:

• Under keyboards

• Under televisions

• Between books

• Inside books. Take a razor and cut out the middle of some pages in a book and hide stuff inside of it.

(Yes, those were repeats, except the addition to the book one)

•Place papers, maps, and small things in a folder or envelope and tape it under a table,
behind a piano, or under a drawer. (Under a drawer isn’t very good)


• If you have a silverware tray in your silverware drawer, this is a very convenient place
to hide papers.


• Hide small slips of paper behind a picture frame or behind the picture in the frame.


• Get a big box and fill it with baseball cards, marbles, lots and lots of pens and pencils,
socks, etc. and hide your stuff between them. (This is a pathetic place, just to let you
know)


• Obtain a small drawstring bag, put some things in there, tie a string around it and tie
that string to the curtain rod and hide the bag with the curtains. (This is surprisingly
effective)


• If your stereo runs on batteries and has a power adapter for it, use the adapter and hide
things in the battery compartment. REMEMBER: Don't hide anything metal in there
unless you want to ruin your stereo. (Once again, surprisingly effective)

• What’s under that shrub outside? Dead leaves? Branches? Pine needles? Sounds good.
You can lay flat items under a natural cover for a short-term hide. Or, dig a hole small
enough to hold a washed out yogurt or butter container. You could use a tin can if you
wanted. Then cover your cache for a nice long-term hideaway.

• Rule Numero Uno: Never use that dumb "sock in the drawer" trick. This is the first
place a burglar will look. Robbers may be an inconvenience, but they're not stupid.
They know other people are though, and that's where the dumb man will hide his
money. Instead, tape an envelope to the back side of the bottom drawer and slip your
moolah in there.

• Use a near-empty stick of deodorant. Unscrew the stick so the deodorant comes out.
Use the space underneath to hide your money, your keys, a knife, etc. and then replace
the stick. No one who tries to get into your stuff will go, "Ooh, deodorant! I bet there's
something useful to do with that!" unless they are insane, smell bad, or they have read
this. Also good for work, school, and travel.

• Most of us have CD cases lying around. Why not put them to good use? Open one up
and carefully remove the piece that holds the CD from the actual clear plastic outer case.
Between that and the paper you can hide some small cash, or a small document (like a
map). You can't put a whole fistful in there; that should be obvious. Replace the piece,
close the case, and put it back in its original position.

• If you have a silverware tray in your silverware drawer, you can hide your denaro in an
envelope and place it under there. Only if someone takes your silverware will they find
your money (or maps).

• If you keep your shoes in a closet, drop something down inside your tallest boot and
shake it to get it down to the toe. Then place the boot back. Not the greatest spot ever,
but good to use during the summer or something when you don't use heavy boots often.

• Stuff things inside the pockets of a coat you don't use anymore. I'm sure some of you have a trench coat or two you don't use often. You can also hang a plastic bag from a hanger, put your stuff inside, and then hang a coat or pair of pants over it to conceal the bag. It may be noisy if someone goes snooping around, so it might be better to use a cloth bag if available.

• Books on a bookshelf don't always reach all the way to the back. If you put those books
on a high shelf (where it's hard to see what's behind them) and pull all the books so the
bindings line up, you have a convenient little space to stash things. Just remove a few
books to get to your stuff.

• Almost every kitchen has a cupboard filled with coffee mugs. Some in the front get
used all the time for drinking coffee (Hello, Captain Obvious), but there are a bunch in
the back that get ignored. You can use the dusty ones to stash stuff. Just don't use the
"#1 DAD!!!" mug, because sometimes dads like to use that kind of thing from time to
time.

• If you have a speaker that doesn’t work (one of the big ones in a wooden box with cloth covering), don’t throw it away. Pry it open, put black paper inside the cover and rip out the guts of the speaker. Put your stuff in there and pop the lid back on, and set the speaker beside your stereo.



That’s all I have for now,
Drewblet

NOTE: I (Drewblet) also fixed some spelling errors. Aren’t I attention grabbing?

Resident Magnum

not many seem to have added to this so I'll try to help out

1) Weapons
2) Tools
3) Medicen
4) supplies
a. food
b. water
c. ammo
d. other
5) shelter
6) trasnportation
7) Special items that can help

There are other pages that can help for 1, 5, 6

Tools

I don't like the screw drivers with little bits the magnets always fall out, so I recomend
1) one flat head
2) one philps
3) if possible one star bit
4) a hammer
5) a hand saw that can cut through anything (they are hard to find but they do exist)

Medicen

take whatever medicen that you need but some who need vital medicen may die as pharmecies maybe raided for medical supplies

Supplies

Depending on what all you have room for try to stock up
even if there is no attack this is a good ideal

1) extra food if there is a sale at a local store
2) water or something other than alcohol
3) toilet paper a must
4) specialty items (too many to list)

Shelter

Depending
Where you live?
How you live?

You may want to seek better shelter or barricade yourself inside

Transportation

Your mode of transportation
buy a bike and learn how to use it

Specialty items

1) safety cross tool___________it has a crank so no batteries
a) flash light
b) alarm
c) cell phone recharger
d. radio
e. compass
2) a good walking stick
3) flint and magnesium
4) knife
a. swiss army knives are great
1. magnifing glass
2. saws
3. tweers
4. scissors
5. ect
I found one in a hardware shop with 50 items on it it was around $60 dollars US

AnyDefense wayand itoffense

Moving willon beto upwhat to do if you are unarmed and run into a zombie

types of zombies by resident magnum observations please quote me

1) creeper-----------slow, stupid, sneaky, quiet
2) Ghoul--------------they are almost the survivorssame as a ghoul they eat every thing even other zombies/ like to decideplay posuem (pretent to staybe putdead)
3) DEMON---------A zombie using a courpse as a popet
4) Voodoo Zombie-----------slave type no mind
5) Crimson zombie--------------rage, strong, capaible of learning or remebering, fast
6) Rathe------------------this is more like a ghoust a person dies comes back and uses their own body to tryget revenge
7) Hell Zombie-----------------(return of the living dead) almost invicible cut up the zombies into peices and the peices come after you

These observations come from (resident evil, return of the living dead, night of the living dead, evil dead)

Creepers can climb they are weak and some times afraid of fire so knock them down and step on them until a friend gets a can of gasoline to burn them don't do this if they are in large numbers

Ghouls they are normally cowardly they may run away untilif Z-daythe happenshumans are in larger numbers so stay in large groups they also burn up well

DEMON run like hell these guys are smart, fast and maybe the most dangerous if you shoot it make sure the bullets are silver or you will just watchpiss it off

Voodoo zombie moviesor andslave learnzombie andit stockmaybe possible to stop these buy religous cerimony or by killing the witch doctor that controls them

Crimson zombie this is where a range rifle will help they would rather kill you then eat you but they go up untilquickly if burned

Rathe don't kill people then onyou suppliesdon't andhave itemsto worry, die after about a month or two

Hell Zombie very dangerous the body must be completly destroied to helpkill it, sometimes ellectricy can kill it or if frozen then it may not be able to move

I'll add more later