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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Feb 8 2012, 5:36 AM EST | Marsden | |
| Dec 31 2011, 3:37 PM EST | x-wolfhunter | 35 words added, 146 words deleted |
Changes
Key: Additions Deletions
by JeffCee
edited by Ironhand
One of my obsessions is bug out bags and what should go in them. With this in mind, I'd like to figure a generic kit that just about any one could use as a starting point for their own preparations. We can debate item by item until we get to the perfect additions to everyone's own kit.
So let's start with a few ground rules:
1. This kit is for when you're on the move. Weight is a factor.
Yeah, you can hike with an 80 lbs. pack, but can you run with it? How about fight? Climb? If you can include the accurate weight, bonus points( bonus points are exchangeable for bragging rights.)
2. Nothing fictional.
I want a stealth suit and light saber, also, but they don't sell those at Big 5.
3. Stuff you can actually get pre-breakout.
That gatling gun and Sherman tank, you got a license for those? Also consider price.
4. One category at a time.
If we are talking about food I don't want to hear about ammo unless it's chocolate.
5. Please support your suggestions.
"'Cause it's awesome is why!" is less convincing then you would think.
6. Assume the user will be initially untrained.
There will have to be instructions or it will need to be intuitive, like a can opener.
7. Be as specific as possible and include a link to the item if you can.
Exactly which Swiss army knife will see you though the Apocalypse? Because mine doesn't have a lobotomizer.
8. Home made and modified items are awesome.
Please include instructions on how you make it.
This will be like scientific deduction. Your answer might be great . . . for you. But remember the guidelines. There is always the possibility of a better solution. Even after we move to a new category, if you find or think of something, great! Let us know!
Water Storage
With out a clean source of it, you're dead in a week, zombie bite or no. How are you going to carry it? You can have multiple items. If you pick an item that has other functions too, all the better.
Bottles and Canteens
** These are stand alone systems you can carry in your hand. **
Nalgene Bottles: these wide mouth bottles each hold a 32 oz. of liquid and are super tough. They also sell bottles with survival kits.
Nano-filtration Water bottle (Lifesaver Bottle) - A nano-filtration unit would be ideal. But some type of water treatment besides boiling will be necessary if you're using non-tap sources of water.
Integrated System
** These are built into some sort of support gear, like a back pack, waist pack, or load bearing vest. **
Hydration bladder - Hydration bladder is probably best bet.They eliminate the sloshing sound of Canteens plus take up less space when empty plus the last I looked my Walmart had about 30 for 5 bucks each.
CamelBak - These Camel bags are made state of the art in America i think?... anyway, they range from a small 1 compartment carrier to a large bag with a small seat attached.
Transportable Cache (these can be moved from temporary base to temporary base, but not usable on the move)
Non-Transportable Cache (these can be set up for you to draw from if you can return to an area, but are not packable)Containers
The US FEMA website has some of the best information about water storage and treatment.
FEMA water storage
FEMA water sanitation
Containers are one of the the best ways for storing large amounts of water. Those 30 gallon Rubbermaid storage tubs you have can be cleaned out and filled with water. Follow the directions on the FEMA site on how to prepare containers and treat water for long term storage.
The FEMA water storage page tells how to use two liter soda bottles (and tons more) to store water. If you grabbed 30 2 liter soda bottles from a store and filled them with water, that would last one person about 16 days according to 1 gallon per day.
WaterBob™ --Water Bathtub Oblong Bladder "The WaterBOB™ is a fresh water containment system used to store up to 100 gallons of potable drinking water in the event supplies become scarce during times of natural or man-made disasters. Water can be stored up to 2 weeks in a controlled environment." Might not be able to carry a bathtub, but if you have room you could use one if you found it.
Gallon Milk Jugs - You know how plastic is forever. Instead of throwing it away you can fill it full of water. Hard to stack, though.
Water purification
To begin to tackle the subject of water purification, one must first understand the difference between purification and filtration.
Purification would seem to be the obvious choice of the two, but without a specific tool for that purpose one may be forced to use other methods. Optimally, one would use a filter and a chemical to sanitize the water.
Possible chemical treatments;
MSR Miniworks EX Water Filter
Katadyn Pocket Microfilter
SteriPen UV water purifier
SteriPEN® Adventurer Handheld Water Purifier (AD-RP). The Adventurer is half the size of the SteriPEN Classic. Because it’s fast (48 seconds for 16 ounces), light (under 110g/4 oz), easy and effective, it’s perfect for hikers and campers who value powerful products in small packages with no loss of effectiveness. Adventurer is especially effective against common protozoa like Cryptosporidium. Its optional solar charging case let’s you go off the grid—way off. Adventurer ships with 2 non-rechargeable (disposable) batteries, a nylon case and users guide
www.hydro-photon.com
Boiling Water
Purifying water by boiling it is the safest, easiest way to make water drinkable. Simply filter all dirt/debris through several coffee filters or tee-shirts till the water is clear. Then bring the water to a fast boil and hold the boil for 1 minute and let it stand for 15 minutes. Now you have safe drinking water. Boiling water may give it a different taste, so stir the water or pour it into another container and back again to add air to the water.
Chemical Purification
When boiling is not practical, certain chemicals will kill most harmful or disease-causing organisms. For chemical disinfectibe effective, the water must be filtered and settled first. Chlorine and iodine are the two chemicals commonly used to treat water. They are somewhat effective in protecting against exposure to Giardia, but mbe effective in controlling more resistant organisms like CryptosporidiumChlorine is generally more effective than iodine in controlling Giardia, and both disinfectants work much better in warm water.
You can use a non-scented, household chlorine bleach that contains a chlorine compound to disinfect water. Do not use non-chlorine bleach to disinfect water. Typically, household chlorine bleaches will be 5.25% available chlorine. Follow the procedure written on the label. When the necessary procedure is not given, find the percentage of available chlorine on the label and use the information in the following table as a guide. (Remember, 1/8 teaspoon and 8 drops are about the same quantity.)
Available Chlorine Drops per Quart/Gallon of Clear Water Drops per Liter of Clear Water 1% 10 per Quart -- 40 per Gallon 10 per Liter 4-6% 2 per Quart -- 8 per Gallon (1/8 teaspoon) 2 per Liter 7-10% 1 per Quart -- 4 per Gallon 1 per Liter (If the strength of the bleach is unknown, add ten drops per quart or liter of filtered and settled water. Double the amount of chlorine for cloudy, murky or colored water or water that is extremely cold.) Mix the treated water thoroughly and allow it to stand, preferably covered, for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat the dosage and allow the water to stand for an additional 15 minutes. If the treated water has too strong a chlorine taste, allow the water to stand exposed to the air for a few hours or pour it from one clean container to another several times.
• You can use granular calcium hypochlorite to disinfect water. Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately ¼ ounce) for each two gallons of water, or 5 milliliters (approximately 7 grams) per 7.5 liters of water. The mixture will produce a stock chlorine solution of approximately 500 milligrams per liter, since the calcium hypochlorite has available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight. To disinfect water, add the chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 ounces) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water or (approximately ½ liter to 50 liters of water) to be disinfected. To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the disinfected water by pouring it back and forth from one clean container to another.
• You can use chlorine tablets to disinfect filtered and settled water. Chlorine tablets containing the necessary dosage for drinking water disinfection can be purchased in a commercially prepared form. These tablets are available from drug and sporting goods stores and should be used as stated in the instructions. When instructions are not available, use one tablet for each quart or liter of water to be purified.
• You can use tincture of iodine to disinfect filtered and settled water. Common household iodine from the medicine chest or first aid kit may be used to disinfect water. Add five drops of 2 percent U.S. or your country’s approved Pharmacopeia tincture of iodine to each quart or liter of clear water. For cloudy water add ten drops and let the solution stand for at least 30 minutes.
• You can use iodine tablets to disinfect filtered and settled water. Purchase commercially prepared iodine tablets containing the necessary dosage for drinking water disinfection at drug and sporting goods stores. Use as stated in instructions. When instructions are not available, use one tablet for each quart or liter of filtered and settled water to be purified.
ONLY USE WATER THAT HAS BEEN PROPERLY DISINFECTED FOR DRINKING, COOKING, MAKING ANY PREPARED DRINK, OR FOR BRUSHING TEETH
First Aid Kit
Two Things seem to come into play with first aid Kits, Contents and container.
So there will be two sub-categories for this section. repeats will be deleted so please read the section before you add to it.
Thanks!
First Aid Kit Contents
There are many kinds of First Aid Kits but they all serve the same purpose. To supply medical supplies for quick use so that you can help until officials arrive. Seeing as there will be very few officials that can help (Stress, Not one in your group, ETC) Then you will need to add a few items. Here is a list of things that you should start with.
1. Gauze
2. CPR/Breath Mask (Most First Aid Kits don't come with these but they are findable and can sometimes be pricey but if you don't use one you could be vomited on during CPR)
3. Antibacterial Soap/Ointment
4. Baking Soda (For Sea Sickness)
5. Adhesive Tape
6. Alcohol Wipes/Swabs
7. Cotton Balls
8. Disposable Latex or Vinyl Gloves
9. First Aid Guide (Comes in Handy during Hurry Situations)
10. Hydrogen Peroxide (Very Handy for Cleaning Wounds)
11. Insect Sting Swabs (Sometimes these are hard to find but they're worth it
12. Moleskin (For Blisters)
13. Scissors (To cut the Gauze and such)
14. Tweezers
After you have acquired these things you will want to put the things that can leak in small bottles (Maybe Film Bottles) and the things that are sticky (Antibacterial Soap, Etc) in small Plastic Baggies. Then you will want to put all of this into a large plastic baggy so that you have it all in one place. While assembling think about what you will likely need first and put this near the top. If you put your gauze at the bottom then you'll have to pull everything out to get to it and that's not fun. You can add onto this list personally if you have a skill in a certain area of the medical profession that requires tools to perform. Do not add tools that you don't know how to use because having that tool may force you to use it.
---Cylon1994
.
1. Antibacterial soap is almost pure advertising, regular soap is as effective. I like the Dr. Bronners Organic Liquid Soap, however while that is usable as both soap and shampoo, it's not in bar form, and thus is a leak/spill hazard
2. duct-tape or 100mph hour tape
3. Conversely use real alcohol for disinfectant, and your gauze or bandana for wiping. Stupid packaging is weight that you don't get to re-use, and means you can't take another item
4. Get the super-scissors that cut thru anything http://www.crocodilecutter.com/ or http://www.macgill.com/productDetail.aspx?catId=10&subcatId=112&product=7777 - cuts thru leather & metal
5. Nail clippers
6. Needle and thread, large gauge needle + surgical thread (usable for sutures, clothing repair, rough medical work)
7. Multi-tool or Needlenose pliers (too hold onto that needle when you heat it in the flame, to grab your pot from the fire when the handle breaks)
8. Drinking Alcohol 180-200proof -- wood alcohol is typical for medicine stuff, because they don't want the tots drinking it. Both will kill germs, and flush out wounds. Both evaporate faster than water, and can cool off overheated people (heat exhaustion). Drinking alcohol can also be used to deaden pain, and as a cheap method of anaesthesia (get them blind drunk/unconscious and then cut 'em open, or pop that shoulder back in). Also, it's the only trade good that has real value in a post-money society. It's also long-term storable.
9. Flexible cutting board
10.No-doze - speaking of meds, this may be good to have.
Don't be shy about bringing tools that you don't know how to use :P.-- Ender42
For reference, google "army combat lifesaver." This is a course designed for the average soldier in the event that he or she is the first one on the scene of a medical emergency. The Combat Lifesaver manual covers basic medical procedures as well as evacuation techniques. While I agree with many items mentioned above, many are more of these items are more for comfort than essential medical equipment. It may be a good idea to set up some sub-categories for items useful in first aid. Most EMTs use ABC (airway, breathing, circulation) to categorize their equipment. Some things I'd put in a first aid bag for Z day follow:
Bleeding:
CAT tourniquet or other prefabricated tourniquet - for stopping a severe arterial bleed in an extremity. If this is not available, ACE bandages work well. Many pre-fab tourniquets are available as their use is gaining greater acceptance in civilian emergency response.
Chemical bandages (quick clot, etc.) - there are a number of chemical bandages on the market that quickly stop bleeding by causing the blood to clot more quickly than naturally.
Emergency Trauma Bandage (aka Israeli bandage) - designed for use by the Israeli Army, this bandage is easy to use. You open it, wrap the wound, and a novel "pressure bar" places extra pressure over the wound to slow the bleeding.
Airway:
Many devices available to patent an airway. The military uses a nasal airway, which is really easy to use. You just lube it and push it in the nose. Even easier than that is the J-tube which can be put in the patient's mouth to keep the tongue from falling back and blocking the airway. For the more advanced, there is the combi-tube or king LT. These airways are easy to use. Just follow the instructions on the package. It's that easy. Should be available through a medical supplier.
Splinting:
S.A.M. Splint - works great for any type of improvised splint for a broken arm, leg, even c-spine. The S.A.M. splint is basically a 3' x 6" piece of bendable metal embedded in foam.
Cravats - useful for splinting arms, shoulders, and a very versatile piece of equipment.
Meds:
Antibiotics - Azythromycin is a personal favorite and has more uses than just the "clap." It can be administered in a single dose drink or in a week long daily regiment. It's easy to use and a broad spectrum anti-biotic. If your casualty survives the field, chances are you'll need to treat for infection.
Anti-anxiety meds - Valium and Zanex are great for treating people who are experiencing severe anxiety reactions to the zombie outbreak. If you can't find those, I'd recommend a good whiskey or bourbon.
IVs:
Saline and Hextend - One for dehydration, the other for treatment of bleeding. If IVs are out of your skill set, simple salt tablets or gatorade mix help prevent dehydration by replacing electrolytes.
telex
First Aid Kit Containers/ Bags
I saw this thing a while ago in a catalog that would be a good thing for a group. if you're in a group, get the one member who's the most skilled in medicine and get them to carry the "portable hospital." It's not just a first aid kit, it's a freakin' medical backpack, which can treat everything from gunshot wounds to amputations. The only problem might be that it's too bulky. -Rambo-117.
http://www.macgill.com/productDetail.aspx?catId=12&product=73901
'All your eggs in one basket' - have someone *else* carry the hospital. Also helps because your medic can go up to them (facing away) and start accessing items - without having to stop, put down their backpack, open it, etc. That said, that's not a go-bag item - thus it belongs in a different list, a list for group preparedness.-- Ender42
HANDBOOKS
I can't stress it enough, ANYTHING THAT MIGHT BE FORGOTTEN OR NEEDED OR CHECKED UP ON MUST HAVE A HANDBOOK!!!!!!!!!
That means first aid, CPR, explosives treatment and use, anything you might think of.
The Anarchist Cookbook - Get the Anarchist Cookbook. YOUR BEST BET!!! It teaches you explosive and weapons manufacturing, how to operate said explosives and a MANY other things.
HAVE A HARD COPY WITH YOU!!!!! - mew2456
Counterpoint: The Anarchist Cookbook not only contains large amounts of useless information, but some of the things in it will kill you. Many of the instructions are incorrect. I have tried direct nitration of hexamine, and I'm glad I merely lost some lab equipment scrounged from junkyards. However, for someone who quit messing with explosives, and needs a refresher, the Cookbook is a great way to remember the chemical processes. -HeavenlySword
Seconded, cookbook is not an end all.
Improvised Munitions Handbook: This book show you how to make a A dual directional scrap fragment launcher or a shotgun from a water pipe. There is a .pdf file out there on the web;) - tomahawk11
SAS Survival Handbook - I have the SAS survival handbook. It's the best thing in the world. It's absolutely amazing. So much information. Try to get one. Edible plants, edible animals, poisonous plants and animals, shelter building, varying climate survival, animal tracks, direction finding, injury treatment, injury prevention, fishing, hunting, trapping, survival kit, knife use and sharpening, plane signals, ground signals, emergency signals, emergency radio codeword and use, orientiering, crash survival, wilderness movement, mountain movement, all terrain movement, various different disaster survival, everything you need. -dominickmagas
The Zombie Survival Guide- While many senior members on this site would burn me at the stake for saying this, The ZSG is a great & funny way to introduce your non-zombie apocalypse prepared friends to surviving better, once you save their asses from the hordes. Be sure to warn them this is not a good survival guide by itself, and that doing many of the things in there (such as hiding on roofs) may lead to painful deaths or reanimation. I recommend you have a copy of the SAS Survival Handbook for them to read after reading the ZSG. -HeavenlySword
The Survivor series, the Poor Man's James Bond, and Granddad's Book of Chemistry by Kurt Saxon at Atlan Fromularies
byates
Communications:
Instructions for Basic navigation by the stars in your hemisphere.-- Ender42
Communications
I have a CB hand held radio (AA battery powered).
I have a crank or rechargable radio.
Some may have a ham radio like a short wave but it lets them talk rather than listen in.
If possible get a CB radio and put one in your car or a generator of some kind for one at home. they are like walkie talkies but have a longer range and more channels to speak on but channel 9 is for the police, but any other should be fine to talk on. -
1.Whistle - long-range signaling device. Carry a morse-code breakdown.
2.Mirror - metal, hole in the center == signaling device, look around a corner, personal care.
3.Shortwave radio.
4.Satellite phone.
5.Cellphone - may or may not survive much past the power outages. Some cell-phone towers are on independent power/backup generators, which are automatic. Most of those are man-less installations, and thus there's no lure for zombies to cause malfunctions in those installations. Unfortunately, the telephone grid may get locked up with too many calls, however if an infestation is rampant, there will (eventually) be many fewer users on the grid, so that problem should dissipate.
6.Writing implements - charcoal from a fire-burnt stick will be passable, but you don't always have that with you, and that only works on some surfaces. Greasepencil is very useful - write on windows, boxes, textured surfaces, etc. A (micro-)Sharpie is good as well, except that it dries out (ROTATE this item). Also, get a toothbrush container, or the like to protect your implements from being sat on, or otherwise smooshed/crushed/mutilated. You've already got paper for firestarting material to write on.-- Ender42
A Snowman brand Marker, extra wide tip, found in most art stores, can write on pretty much anything, useful for tagging buildings. -D4RK4NG3LX
Brigade Quartermaster sells small solar kits that can recharge cell phones, laptops, and the like- nightcreeper78
For simplicity's sake, all electronics should be run on rechargeable AA batteries. -Data
Power (Electricity):
Duracell Power pack 1800 ideal for home use
Click picture for more info.
Duracell Power pack 450 ideal for vehicle use
Click picture for more info.
Navigation:
Here are some categories for navigation tools, thanks Ender42.
Compass - Get a real one, not a cheap inaccurate one that screws into the bottom of your Rambo knife.-- Ender42
Local terrain maps (USGS) for your area.-- Ender42
Road maps for your area.-- Ender42
GPS unit - Unlike other hypothetical preparedness situations, zombies are unlikely to take out satellites.-- Ender42
(Considering the rule 'Untrained User' GPS unit is the only acceptable navigation tool. Prefferably one with automatic map updating. Someone trying to use anything other than the simplest map who is not trained in the most basic navigation skills will likely get themselves lost. How many people really know how to triangulate their location on a map. Further, you forgot the most basic mapping tool, a protractor. In a situation where you are 'On the run', if you are navigating to a grid coord, a gps is the fastest way to know where you are going. Said GPS should be run on a minimum amount of AA batteries. -Data ~~~~)
edited by Ironhand
One of my obsessions is bug out bags and what should go in them. With this in mind, I'd like to figure a generic kit that just about any one could use as a starting point for their own preparations. We can debate item by item until we get to the perfect additions to everyone's own kit.
So let's start with a few ground rules:
1. This kit is for when you're on the move. Weight is a factor.
Yeah, you can hike with an 80 lbs. pack, but can you run with it? How about fight? Climb? If you can include the accurate weight, bonus points( bonus points are exchangeable for bragging rights.)
2. Nothing fictional.
I want a stealth suit and light saber, also, but they don't sell those at Big 5.
3. Stuff you can actually get pre-breakout.
That gatling gun and Sherman tank, you got a license for those? Also consider price.
4. One category at a time.
If we are talking about food I don't want to hear about ammo unless it's chocolate.
5. Please support your suggestions.
"'Cause it's awesome is why!" is less convincing then you would think.
6. Assume the user will be initially untrained.
There will have to be instructions or it will need to be intuitive, like a can opener.
7. Be as specific as possible and include a link to the item if you can.
Exactly which Swiss army knife will see you though the Apocalypse? Because mine doesn't have a lobotomizer.
8. Home made and modified items are awesome.
Please include instructions on how you make it.
This will be like scientific deduction. Your answer might be great . . . for you. But remember the guidelines. There is always the possibility of a better solution. Even after we move to a new category, if you find or think of something, great! Let us know!
Water Storage
With out a clean source of it, you're dead in a week, zombie bite or no. How are you going to carry it? You can have multiple items. If you pick an item that has other functions too, all the better.
Bottles and Canteens
** These are stand alone systems you can carry in your hand. **
Nalgene Bottles: these wide mouth bottles each hold a 32 oz. of liquid and are super tough. They also sell bottles with survival kits.
Nano-filtration Water bottle (Lifesaver Bottle) - A nano-filtration unit would be ideal. But some type of water treatment besides boiling will be necessary if you're using non-tap sources of water.
Integrated System ** These are built into some sort of support gear, like a back pack, waist pack, or load bearing vest. **
Hydration bladder - Hydration bladder is probably best bet.They eliminate the sloshing sound of Canteens plus take up less space when empty plus the last I looked my Walmart had about 30 for 5 bucks each.
CamelBak - These Camel bags are made state of the art in America i think?... anyway, they range from a small 1 compartment carrier to a large bag with a small seat attached.
Transportable Cache (these can be moved from temporary base to temporary base, but not usable on the move)
Non-Transportable Cache (these can be set up for you to draw from if you can return to an area, but are not packable)
The US FEMA website has some of the best information about water storage and treatment.
FEMA water storage
FEMA water sanitation
Containers are one of the the best ways for storing large amounts of water. Those 30 gallon Rubbermaid storage tubs you have can be cleaned out and filled with water. Follow the directions on the FEMA site on how to prepare containers and treat water for long term storage.
The FEMA water storage page tells how to use two liter soda bottles (and tons more) to store water. If you grabbed 30 2 liter soda bottles from a store and filled them with water, that would last one person about 16 days according to 1 gallon per day.
WaterBob™ --Water Bathtub Oblong Bladder "The WaterBOB™ is a fresh water containment system used to store up to 100 gallons of potable drinking water in the event supplies become scarce during times of natural or man-made disasters. Water can be stored up to 2 weeks in a controlled environment." Might not be able to carry a bathtub, but if you have room you could use one if you found it.
Gallon Milk Jugs - You know how plastic is forever. Instead of throwing it away you can fill it full of water. Hard to stack, though.
Water purification
To begin to tackle the subject of water purification, one must first understand the difference between purification and filtration.
- Water Filtration: The removal of bacteria, protozoa, and general sediment from water.
- Water Purification: The removal, or act of rendering waterborne viruses inactive as well as the removal of bacteria and protozoa.
Purification would seem to be the obvious choice of the two, but without a specific tool for that purpose one may be forced to use other methods. Optimally, one would use a filter and a chemical to sanitize the water.
Possible chemical treatments;
Popular filter choices:
- Iodine i.e. Potable Aqua
- Chlorine Dioxide i.e. Katadyn Micropur
MSR Miniworks EX Water Filter 
Katadyn Hiker
Katadyn Pocket MicrofilterSteriPen UV water purifierSteriPEN® Adventurer Handheld Water Purifier (AD-RP). The Adventurer is half the size of the SteriPEN Classic. Because it’s fast (48 seconds for 16 ounces), light (under 110g/4 oz), easy and effective, it’s perfect for hikers and campers who value powerful products in small packages with no loss of effectiveness. Adventurer is especially effective against common protozoa like Cryptosporidium. Its optional solar charging case let’s you go off the grid—way off. Adventurer ships with 2 non-rechargeable (disposable) batteries, a nylon case and users guide
www.hydro-photon.com
Boiling Water
Purifying water by boiling it is the safest, easiest way to make water drinkable. Simply filter all dirt/debris through several coffee filters or tee-shirts till the water is clear. Then bring the water to a fast boil and hold the boil for 1 minute and let it stand for 15 minutes. Now you have safe drinking water. Boiling water may give it a different taste, so stir the water or pour it into another container and back again to add air to the water.
Note: This was taken from www.epa.gov/safewater/faq/emerg.html
Chemical Purification
When boiling is not practical, certain chemicals will kill most harmful or disease-causing organisms. For chemical disinfectibe effective, the water must be filtered and settled first. Chlorine and iodine are the two chemicals commonly used to treat water. They are somewhat effective in protecting against exposure to Giardia, but mbe effective in controlling more resistant organisms like CryptosporidiumChlorine is generally more effective than iodine in controlling Giardia, and both disinfectants work much better in warm water.
You can use a non-scented, household chlorine bleach that contains a chlorine compound to disinfect water. Do not use non-chlorine bleach to disinfect water. Typically, household chlorine bleaches will be 5.25% available chlorine. Follow the procedure written on the label. When the necessary procedure is not given, find the percentage of available chlorine on the label and use the information in the following table as a guide. (Remember, 1/8 teaspoon and 8 drops are about the same quantity.)
Available Chlorine Drops per Quart/Gallon of Clear Water Drops per Liter of Clear Water 1% 10 per Quart -- 40 per Gallon 10 per Liter 4-6% 2 per Quart -- 8 per Gallon (1/8 teaspoon) 2 per Liter 7-10% 1 per Quart -- 4 per Gallon 1 per Liter (If the strength of the bleach is unknown, add ten drops per quart or liter of filtered and settled water. Double the amount of chlorine for cloudy, murky or colored water or water that is extremely cold.) Mix the treated water thoroughly and allow it to stand, preferably covered, for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat the dosage and allow the water to stand for an additional 15 minutes. If the treated water has too strong a chlorine taste, allow the water to stand exposed to the air for a few hours or pour it from one clean container to another several times.
• You can use granular calcium hypochlorite to disinfect water. Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (approximately ¼ ounce) for each two gallons of water, or 5 milliliters (approximately 7 grams) per 7.5 liters of water. The mixture will produce a stock chlorine solution of approximately 500 milligrams per liter, since the calcium hypochlorite has available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight. To disinfect water, add the chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal to adding 1 pint (16 ounces) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water or (approximately ½ liter to 50 liters of water) to be disinfected. To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the disinfected water by pouring it back and forth from one clean container to another.
• You can use chlorine tablets to disinfect filtered and settled water. Chlorine tablets containing the necessary dosage for drinking water disinfection can be purchased in a commercially prepared form. These tablets are available from drug and sporting goods stores and should be used as stated in the instructions. When instructions are not available, use one tablet for each quart or liter of water to be purified.
• You can use tincture of iodine to disinfect filtered and settled water. Common household iodine from the medicine chest or first aid kit may be used to disinfect water. Add five drops of 2 percent U.S. or your country’s approved Pharmacopeia tincture of iodine to each quart or liter of clear water. For cloudy water add ten drops and let the solution stand for at least 30 minutes.
• You can use iodine tablets to disinfect filtered and settled water. Purchase commercially prepared iodine tablets containing the necessary dosage for drinking water disinfection at drug and sporting goods stores. Use as stated in instructions. When instructions are not available, use one tablet for each quart or liter of filtered and settled water to be purified.
ONLY USE WATER THAT HAS BEEN PROPERLY DISINFECTED FOR DRINKING, COOKING, MAKING ANY PREPARED DRINK, OR FOR BRUSHING TEETH
This was taken from: www.epa.gov/safewater/faq/emerg.html
First Aid Kit Two Things seem to come into play with first aid Kits, Contents and container.
So there will be two sub-categories for this section. repeats will be deleted so please read the section before you add to it.
Thanks!
First Aid Kit Contents
There are many kinds of First Aid Kits but they all serve the same purpose. To supply medical supplies for quick use so that you can help until officials arrive. Seeing as there will be very few officials that can help (Stress, Not one in your group, ETC) Then you will need to add a few items. Here is a list of things that you should start with.
1. Gauze
2. CPR/Breath Mask (Most First Aid Kits don't come with these but they are findable and can sometimes be pricey but if you don't use one you could be vomited on during CPR)
3. Antibacterial Soap/Ointment
4. Baking Soda (For Sea Sickness)
5. Adhesive Tape
6. Alcohol Wipes/Swabs
7. Cotton Balls
8. Disposable Latex or Vinyl Gloves
9. First Aid Guide (Comes in Handy during Hurry Situations)
10. Hydrogen Peroxide (Very Handy for Cleaning Wounds)
11. Insect Sting Swabs (Sometimes these are hard to find but they're worth it
12. Moleskin (For Blisters)
13. Scissors (To cut the Gauze and such)
14. Tweezers
After you have acquired these things you will want to put the things that can leak in small bottles (Maybe Film Bottles) and the things that are sticky (Antibacterial Soap, Etc) in small Plastic Baggies. Then you will want to put all of this into a large plastic baggy so that you have it all in one place. While assembling think about what you will likely need first and put this near the top. If you put your gauze at the bottom then you'll have to pull everything out to get to it and that's not fun. You can add onto this list personally if you have a skill in a certain area of the medical profession that requires tools to perform. Do not add tools that you don't know how to use because having that tool may force you to use it.
---Cylon1994
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1. Antibacterial soap is almost pure advertising, regular soap is as effective. I like the Dr. Bronners Organic Liquid Soap, however while that is usable as both soap and shampoo, it's not in bar form, and thus is a leak/spill hazard
2. duct-tape or 100mph hour tape
3. Conversely use real alcohol for disinfectant, and your gauze or bandana for wiping. Stupid packaging is weight that you don't get to re-use, and means you can't take another item
4. Get the super-scissors that cut thru anything http://www.crocodilecutter.com/ or http://www.macgill.com/productDetail.aspx?catId=10&subcatId=112&product=7777 - cuts thru leather & metal
5. Nail clippers
6. Needle and thread, large gauge needle + surgical thread (usable for sutures, clothing repair, rough medical work)
7. Multi-tool or Needlenose pliers (too hold onto that needle when you heat it in the flame, to grab your pot from the fire when the handle breaks)
8. Drinking Alcohol 180-200proof -- wood alcohol is typical for medicine stuff, because they don't want the tots drinking it. Both will kill germs, and flush out wounds. Both evaporate faster than water, and can cool off overheated people (heat exhaustion). Drinking alcohol can also be used to deaden pain, and as a cheap method of anaesthesia (get them blind drunk/unconscious and then cut 'em open, or pop that shoulder back in). Also, it's the only trade good that has real value in a post-money society. It's also long-term storable.
9. Flexible cutting board
10.No-doze - speaking of meds, this may be good to have.
Don't be shy about bringing tools that you don't know how to use :P.-- Ender42
For reference, google "army combat lifesaver." This is a course designed for the average soldier in the event that he or she is the first one on the scene of a medical emergency. The Combat Lifesaver manual covers basic medical procedures as well as evacuation techniques. While I agree with many items mentioned above, many are more of these items are more for comfort than essential medical equipment. It may be a good idea to set up some sub-categories for items useful in first aid. Most EMTs use ABC (airway, breathing, circulation) to categorize their equipment. Some things I'd put in a first aid bag for Z day follow:
Bleeding:
CAT tourniquet or other prefabricated tourniquet - for stopping a severe arterial bleed in an extremity. If this is not available, ACE bandages work well. Many pre-fab tourniquets are available as their use is gaining greater acceptance in civilian emergency response.
Chemical bandages (quick clot, etc.) - there are a number of chemical bandages on the market that quickly stop bleeding by causing the blood to clot more quickly than naturally.
Emergency Trauma Bandage (aka Israeli bandage) - designed for use by the Israeli Army, this bandage is easy to use. You open it, wrap the wound, and a novel "pressure bar" places extra pressure over the wound to slow the bleeding.
Airway:
Many devices available to patent an airway. The military uses a nasal airway, which is really easy to use. You just lube it and push it in the nose. Even easier than that is the J-tube which can be put in the patient's mouth to keep the tongue from falling back and blocking the airway. For the more advanced, there is the combi-tube or king LT. These airways are easy to use. Just follow the instructions on the package. It's that easy. Should be available through a medical supplier.
Splinting:
S.A.M. Splint - works great for any type of improvised splint for a broken arm, leg, even c-spine. The S.A.M. splint is basically a 3' x 6" piece of bendable metal embedded in foam.
Cravats - useful for splinting arms, shoulders, and a very versatile piece of equipment.
Meds:
Antibiotics - Azythromycin is a personal favorite and has more uses than just the "clap." It can be administered in a single dose drink or in a week long daily regiment. It's easy to use and a broad spectrum anti-biotic. If your casualty survives the field, chances are you'll need to treat for infection.
Anti-anxiety meds - Valium and Zanex are great for treating people who are experiencing severe anxiety reactions to the zombie outbreak. If you can't find those, I'd recommend a good whiskey or bourbon.
IVs:
Saline and Hextend - One for dehydration, the other for treatment of bleeding. If IVs are out of your skill set, simple salt tablets or gatorade mix help prevent dehydration by replacing electrolytes.
telex
First Aid Kit Containers/ Bags
I saw this thing a while ago in a catalog that would be a good thing for a group. if you're in a group, get the one member who's the most skilled in medicine and get them to carry the "portable hospital." It's not just a first aid kit, it's a freakin' medical backpack, which can treat everything from gunshot wounds to amputations. The only problem might be that it's too bulky. -Rambo-117.
http://www.macgill.com/productDetail.aspx?catId=12&product=73901
'All your eggs in one basket' - have someone *else* carry the hospital. Also helps because your medic can go up to them (facing away) and start accessing items - without having to stop, put down their backpack, open it, etc. That said, that's not a go-bag item - thus it belongs in a different list, a list for group preparedness.-- Ender42
HANDBOOKS
I can't stress it enough, ANYTHING THAT MIGHT BE FORGOTTEN OR NEEDED OR CHECKED UP ON MUST HAVE A HANDBOOK!!!!!!!!!
That means first aid, CPR, explosives treatment and use, anything you might think of.
The Anarchist Cookbook - Get the Anarchist Cookbook. YOUR BEST BET!!! It teaches you explosive and weapons manufacturing, how to operate said explosives and a MANY other things.
HAVE A HARD COPY WITH YOU!!!!! - mew2456
Counterpoint: The Anarchist Cookbook not only contains large amounts of useless information, but some of the things in it will kill you. Many of the instructions are incorrect. I have tried direct nitration of hexamine, and I'm glad I merely lost some lab equipment scrounged from junkyards. However, for someone who quit messing with explosives, and needs a refresher, the Cookbook is a great way to remember the chemical processes. -HeavenlySword
Seconded, cookbook is not an end all.
Improvised Munitions Handbook: This book show you how to make a A dual directional scrap fragment launcher or a shotgun from a water pipe. There is a .pdf file out there on the web;) - tomahawk11
SAS Survival Handbook - I have the SAS survival handbook. It's the best thing in the world. It's absolutely amazing. So much information. Try to get one. Edible plants, edible animals, poisonous plants and animals, shelter building, varying climate survival, animal tracks, direction finding, injury treatment, injury prevention, fishing, hunting, trapping, survival kit, knife use and sharpening, plane signals, ground signals, emergency signals, emergency radio codeword and use, orientiering, crash survival, wilderness movement, mountain movement, all terrain movement, various different disaster survival, everything you need. -dominickmagas
The Zombie Survival Guide- While many senior members on this site would burn me at the stake for saying this, The ZSG is a great & funny way to introduce your non-zombie apocalypse prepared friends to surviving better, once you save their asses from the hordes. Be sure to warn them this is not a good survival guide by itself, and that doing many of the things in there (such as hiding on roofs) may lead to painful deaths or reanimation. I recommend you have a copy of the SAS Survival Handbook for them to read after reading the ZSG. -HeavenlySword
The Survivor series, the Poor Man's James Bond, and Granddad's Book of Chemistry by Kurt Saxon at Atlan Fromularies
byates
Communications:
Instructions for Basic navigation by the stars in your hemisphere.-- Ender42
Communications
I have a CB hand held radio (AA battery powered).I have a crank or rechargable radio.
Some may have a ham radio like a short wave but it lets them talk rather than listen in.
If possible get a CB radio and put one in your car or a generator of some kind for one at home. they are like walkie talkies but have a longer range and more channels to speak on but channel 9 is for the police, but any other should be fine to talk on. -
| residentmagnum |
1.Whistle - long-range signaling device. Carry a morse-code breakdown.
2.Mirror - metal, hole in the center == signaling device, look around a corner, personal care.
3.Shortwave radio.
4.Satellite phone.
5.Cellphone - may or may not survive much past the power outages. Some cell-phone towers are on independent power/backup generators, which are automatic. Most of those are man-less installations, and thus there's no lure for zombies to cause malfunctions in those installations. Unfortunately, the telephone grid may get locked up with too many calls, however if an infestation is rampant, there will (eventually) be many fewer users on the grid, so that problem should dissipate.
6.Writing implements - charcoal from a fire-burnt stick will be passable, but you don't always have that with you, and that only works on some surfaces. Greasepencil is very useful - write on windows, boxes, textured surfaces, etc. A (micro-)Sharpie is good as well, except that it dries out (ROTATE this item). Also, get a toothbrush container, or the like to protect your implements from being sat on, or otherwise smooshed/crushed/mutilated. You've already got paper for firestarting material to write on.-- Ender42
A Snowman brand Marker, extra wide tip, found in most art stores, can write on pretty much anything, useful for tagging buildings. -D4RK4NG3LX
Brigade Quartermaster sells small solar kits that can recharge cell phones, laptops, and the like- nightcreeper78
For simplicity's sake, all electronics should be run on rechargeable AA batteries. -Data
Power (Electricity):
Duracell Power pack 1800 ideal for home use
Click picture for more info.
Duracell Power pack 450 ideal for vehicle use
Click picture for more info.
Navigation:
Here are some categories for navigation tools, thanks Ender42.
Compass - Get a real one, not a cheap inaccurate one that screws into the bottom of your Rambo knife.-- Ender42
Local terrain maps (USGS) for your area.-- Ender42
Road maps for your area.-- Ender42
GPS unit - Unlike other hypothetical preparedness situations, zombies are unlikely to take out satellites.-- Ender42
(Considering the rule 'Untrained User' GPS unit is the only acceptable navigation tool. Prefferably one with automatic map updating. Someone trying to use anything other than the simplest map who is not trained in the most basic navigation skills will likely get themselves lost. How many people really know how to triangulate their location on a map. Further, you forgot the most basic mapping tool, a protractor. In a situation where you are 'On the run', if you are navigating to a grid coord, a gps is the fastest way to know where you are going. Said GPS should be run on a minimum amount of AA batteries. -Data ~~~~)
Keys - add a key ring to the bag, preferably attached to the exterior on a flexible/detachable and easy to reach place. Start with house and car keys then add keys to other houses or cars you could use, if you start moving around mark the doors and keys identically in some way so you aren't searching through your ring to find the right one. Keys to the gun cabinet or other storage should should also be kept. If your collection gets two large keep the keys sorted by place or type. Collect keys to other vehicles in the area, make sure they start and have some gas before saving the key, having multiple escape vehicles will come in handy. -- Zame
