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What handgun should I buy?
For the hypothetical zombie apocalypse, it's a very common question. Preparing for a disaster, or just for some extra comfort going to sleep at night, buying a firearm of any sort is a uniquely American concern, the US being one of the few places that handguns are relatively common in. The concepts explained in this article will apply to other places, but it will for the most part be discussing the American market. This is meant for those with a working knowledge of firearms. If you need to brush up on the parts of a handgun and it's general operation, check out this page.
What is a handgun good for?
Killing people when you don't have a better gun. For defensive carry, it's important to realize that a handgun is not like a baton or pepper spray. Drawing that gun and pulling the trigger is pretty much a death sentence and shooting, even when it's justified, is a huge legal concern. On the other end of the spectrum, a handgun is a disadvantage in any serious firefight. They pack a less powerful bullet, carry less rounds, and ultimately are harder to use than any rifle or shotgun. Handguns are only so common because they are easier to carry. When you can pick what gun to fight with, don't pick a handgun.
It's a unique mindset. Drawing a handgun in any circumstances is the very last option, but when you have do, you must do it with the intent to survive the fight, not to wound or avoid legal trouble. If you don't understand that mindset, a defensive firearm is not for you, and double for something as handicapped as a handgun.
Q: Revolver or pistol?
A: This is almost completely personal choice, but there are some important differences. Revolvers offer less firepower overall with slower reloads, and less rounds in the cylinder than most magazines. Autoloading pistols have more moving parts, more chance of failure and are generally more complex in operation. For those who have difficulty with recoil causing jams (as a pistol requires a firm wrist) or have some sort of disability, the revolver may be the only option.
Most pocket autoloaders are slimmer than a comparable snub nose, but the round count for the compacts tends to be pretty similar. One significant difference in the defense role is that the revolver has significant intimidation factor, with it's five or six bullets sitting exposed in the cylinder.
Q: What is the difference between trigger types?
A: Single action is the original, and generally extremely fast. It means that the trigger only drops the hammer, meaning the hammer needs to be cocked before the gun can be fired. Single action weapons are generally carried "locked and cocked," with the hammer cocked, chamber loaded, and safety on. They can allow very rapid, accurate targeting but require significant practice and caution.
It's worth nothing that a "single action revolver" is drastically different from a single action pistol, as a single action revolver is almost always a replica of an older "cowboy revolver" which utilizes a loading gate instead of a cylinder, and must be cocked before every shot, rather than a pistol, which cocks the hammer upon recoiling. Generally speaking, a single-action revolver is too difficult to use reliably for defensive purposes.
Double action is a bit more complex. The trigger can either raise and drop the hammer, or simply drop the hammer from it's pre-cocked position. The first shot is a longer, heavier double action pull, but the slide cocks the hammer for single action follow up shots. This potentially gives the best of single and double action, but it's also more complex and can be quite difficult to get used to.
Double-Action-Only (DAO) is where the gun fires in double action for every shot, like a revolver. It has the advantage of less complex action, with a trigger pull generally improved over a typical double action. Most lack safeties, so all they user has to do is point and shoot. Probably the best choice for a beginner.
Q: What is the best caliber?
A: This is hotly debated, but there are some ground rules.
The wider and heavier the bullets are, the more impact they'll have on the target, and the faster they'll put them down. Higher velocity ensures more effective expansion of hollow point bullets and such, as well as increased penetration of bullets in general. Too much velocity means the bullets won't penetrate deep enough in the target to be lethal.
However, heavier bullets means more recoil, and higher velocity means hotter powder loads, which in turn generally means bigger flash, which can be a bad disadvantage at night.
The author's personal rule of thumb, is to take the largest caliber that doesn't sacrifice shooting ability and capacity too much. That is, if the .45 ACP pistol is hard to control and doesn't carry enough rounds, there is nothing wrong with a .40 S&W or a 9mm Parabellum. Shoot the gun and the bullet that fits you the best, not necessarily the one that looks the best on paper. Despite the complaining to the contrary, any modern bullet can kill.
The most common defensive calibers in the US tend to be; .380 ACP / 9mm Short, 9mm Parabellum, .38 Special, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, .357 Sig, .44 Special, and .357 Magnum.
In some other countries, military calibers are banned, causing oddball cartridges like 9x21mm IMI to be the common option. Otherwise, 9mm is fairly dominant as far as handguns go globally, except in areas where large amounts of surplus mean you'll find 7.62x25mm Tokarev ammo, and
.44 Magnum, .454 Cassul, .45 Long Colt (with modern loadings), .50 Action Express and other stout loadings are probably beyond the needed firepower for human targets, though those in bear country might find the need for such a powerful handgun.
Q: How should I pick ammo?
A: You can find details on identifying ammunition at this page. For range use FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) is fine. For self defense, JHP (Jacketed Hollow Point) is generally considered the best choice, as it expands upon impact to increase stopping power and has less of a tendency to penetrate the bad guy and kill someone behind them.
Essentially, a good bullet expands when it hits the target to at least one and a half times it's own size, and penetrates around 12 to 18 inches, where they will reach internal organs but not leave the target and hit something behind them.
Other types of bullets exist that often have a strong appeal for self defense. EFMJ (Expanding Full Metal Jackets) are bullets that look, and feed like FMJ (as some guns will jam with JHP) but expand. They don't expand as well, but they lack the stigma of hollow points and are used by some cops that aren't allowed to carry JHP.
Frangible ammo is also hotly debated. Magsafe and other well known brands use a bullet that is either made of compressed powder, or made of a soft nose containing pellets that prevents penetration in interior walls and ricochets in a closed environment. Many also do not contain lead (Non-Toxic ammo) due to this latter use. Many shooting schools require frangible, non toxic ammo to preserve their ranges, but generally speaking, these rounds lack the penetration to be a serious option for defensive shooting.
Ask around for a reliable brand. Look up typical ballistic results. Do some tests for yourself, and fire at least one hundred rounds to see how reliable the ammunition is. Fire a few at night. Too many people have no clue how their defense ammo shoots because practice ammo is cheaper.
One final tip: If you reload bullets, try to avoid using them in a defense gun. While it's legitimate to most shooters, any competent lawyer will catch the detail that you "make bullets" and throw you in the worst way possible. It's possible to have an expert explain why this is not true, but it's hassle one could do well avoiding.
Q: How do I keep a gun safely in a house with my family / roommates?
A: People will recommend gun cabinets, gun locks, hiding them. While locked cabinets prevent theft, a defensive gun will probably not have the luxury of being locked up. If you can find a fast method of doing so, go for it. Otherwise, the best option is
probably telling family exactly where the gun it, showing it to them to fulfill their curiosity, and putting some respect into them over what it can do. Shoot a watermelon or a jug of water, the same concept as showing someone a stove burns them, it has been said.
Q: How much maintenance does a gun require?
A: All guns should be at least field stripped and cleaned after each shooting session to prevent buildup of powder and bullet residue.Depending on the gun, you might need some basic tools, especially for removing the grip panels, if it has them. At minimum:
Any semi-automatic also needs good magazines, so don't skimp on them, and replace the springs regularly. If a gun starts to misfeed for no reason, it generally means the springs have been worn down. Contrary to popular belief, springs don't wear down over time, but over being loaded and unloaded, basically, used.
Revolvers, alternatively just need the cylinder popped, each chamber cleaned thoroughly, like the barrel, then any fouling on the forcing cone and breechface cleaned (absolutely no oil near the firing pin area.) They are usually not detailed stripped due to their internal complexity.
Q: How much should I expect to pay?
A: On the lower end, expect from $300 for a used factory gun. You shouldn't have to pay more than $800, though some semi-custom 1911s and H&K products will cost right in that range. Some surplus guns may also be good purchases, though any older or used gun should be checked with a gunsmith.
Q: What else should I buy with the gun?
A: Before anything, solid eye and ear protection that is rated for firearms. Don't short cut with sports gear and generic earplugs. It's not worth permanent damage. A single gunshot has the same sound level as a jet engine, which can damage your hearing with a single exposure. Your hearing doesn't regenerate, either. You might question the glasses, too, but remember ricochets are not uncommon, and even functional guns can spray lead pieces and unburned powder.
A basic cleaning kit with brushes, patches and solvents for regular maintenance, a larger one if you have more than one gun. A quality kit with exchangeable brushes will cost less in the long run. Many people also use a tooth brush for small cleaning.
A sturdy, preferably lockable gun case is essential, even if you don't plan on locking it up. Public transportation without a case is considered brandishing. A soft case can cost as little as twenty dollars, and a hard, lockable case can be anywhere from thirty to several hundred dollars.
Most guns come with gun locks from the factory, but if they don't, you may want to pick one up, depending on what the handgun is used for - a lock will be less of an option if you only own one gun, and use it for defensive use, for example. Gun locks are cheap - most police department give them out for free.
For most defensive use, you'll want at least two spare magazines (or speedloaders and such for revolvers). Serious shooters tend to double the number of magazines, so they can swap out the ones in use as springs wear down. Magazines can cost from twenty to sixty dollars a piece.
Depending on what you need the handgun for, a good holster will be a wise investment. Cheap holstetrs are like cheap tires on a car. Not worth the trouble. Kydex and leather are the dominant materials for concealed carry holsters, and the options are truly endless. (Note: A link to a holster article will be placed here.) Price tend to start from fifty dollars.
Q: What kind of training should I seek?
A: As much as you can. Take a hunter's safety course, at the absolute minimum, as they're available across the country. A concealed carry course is wise even for those who don't carry, as they give much legal and mindset advice. Find classes, get a good setup and stick with it, train regularly. But make sure you train well.
See if you can find a beginner's course, potentially a discount through the gun store you purchased your handgun at. NRA certified trainers are not hard to source.
Many DVDs are available on the market that show a variety of skills, among them names like Viking Tactics, Magpul Dynamics, Tactical Response, or well-known individuals like Gabriel Suarez, Jerry Miculek
Eventually, one of the best ways to train is with competitive shooting. The
biggest names are IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation), USPSA (United States Practical Shooting Association) and IDPA (International Defensive Pistol Association). The first two are rather flashy and take expensive gear, though both have limited classes that allow completely stock guns. IDPA is specifically designed to simulate defensive encounters.
Either way, nothing prepares you for stress like performing in front of twenty or thirty shooters that know exactly what you're doing wrong. Some of the best shooters, like late NYPD stakeout officer Jim Cirillo, built their skills with simple competition.
Years of PPC (Police Pistol Competition) were what people contributed to Cirillo's impressive gunfight record, including shooting three perpatrators in a hostage situation without any of them getting off a single shot, with his simple S&W revolver in under three seconds. The front sight on his revolver was sharp, instead of blurred by the normal adrenaline rush tunnel vision, and his trigger presses were even. Intense competition stress had taught him how to cope. Not everyone can do that, and not everyone will get into the situation that requires such coordination, but everything helps.
Don't rely on any one form of training, find buddies who shoot often, take classes, keep your skills sharp and critique yourself to see what you can improve on. Like any other hobby, shooting is about improvement as well as spending money and showing off.
Killing people when you don't have a better gun. For defensive carry, it's important to realize that a handgun is not like a baton or pepper spray. Drawing that gun and pulling the trigger is pretty much a death sentence and shooting, even when it's justified, is a huge legal concern. On the other end of the spectrum, a handgun is a disadvantage in any serious firefight. They pack a less powerful bullet, carry less rounds, and ultimately are harder to use than any rifle or shotgun. Handguns are only so common because they are easier to carry. When you can pick what gun to fight with, don't pick a handgun.It's a unique mindset. Drawing a handgun in any circumstances is the very last option, but when you have do, you must do it with the intent to survive the fight, not to wound or avoid legal trouble. If you don't understand that mindset, a defensive firearm is not for you, and double for something as handicapped as a handgun.
Purchasing a Handgun
By that time, it should be pretty clear what you want to get. If not, here are some additional tips in a Question-And-Answer format.Buying a handgun is relatively simple. You go to a dealership in person and get a background check, sometimes a delay depending on the state, then pay for the handgun. 
Online, the pistol is sent to a FFL (Federal Firearms License) holder, which would be any gun shop. But there are so many handguns on the market that picking one can get problematic.
Truth be told, the best way is to go to a gun shop with a decent selection and take a look at their most popular models. The key thing at that point is how natural a fit the gun is to you or not.
Is the grip too wide?
Is the trigger too long to reach?
Are the magazine release and safety conveniently located?
Are the sights clear?
Is the trigger too heavy?
Is the gun too bulky to comfortably carry?
Online, the pistol is sent to a FFL (Federal Firearms License) holder, which would be any gun shop. But there are so many handguns on the market that picking one can get problematic.Truth be told, the best way is to go to a gun shop with a decent selection and take a look at their most popular models. The key thing at that point is how natural a fit the gun is to you or not.
Is the grip too wide?
Is the trigger too long to reach?
Are the magazine release and safety conveniently located?
Are the sights clear?
Is the trigger too heavy?
Is the gun too bulky to comfortably carry?
Based on those observations, ask the shop owner about a model that is better in that specific respect. Be polite and try not to make an annoyance of yourself, but also use common sense. If he tells you that X pistol is the safest ever designed, does that also mean it's difficult to use? If Y gun will kill anything on two legs, will it kick you on your ass shooting it, too? A good concern is parts availability too, especially magazines, springs and such common components.
If you've looked through, found a gun that really fits you, it's time to take it out to the range. See what calibers you can handle, and put at least thirty rounds down range for reliability. Even the most reliable gun can jam up if you have weak wrists or a bad stance, especially pocket pistols.
If you've looked through, found a gun that really fits you, it's time to take it out to the range. See what calibers you can handle, and put at least thirty rounds down range for reliability. Even the most reliable gun can jam up if you have weak wrists or a bad stance, especially pocket pistols.
Common Questions
Q: Revolver or pistol?A: This is almost completely personal choice, but there are some important differences. Revolvers offer less firepower overall with slower reloads, and less rounds in the cylinder than most magazines. Autoloading pistols have more moving parts, more chance of failure and are generally more complex in operation. For those who have difficulty with recoil causing jams (as a pistol requires a firm wrist) or have some sort of disability, the revolver may be the only option.
Most pocket autoloaders are slimmer than a comparable snub nose, but the round count for the compacts tends to be pretty similar. One significant difference in the defense role is that the revolver has significant intimidation factor, with it's five or six bullets sitting exposed in the cylinder.
Q: What is the difference between trigger types?
A: Single action is the original, and generally extremely fast. It means that the trigger only drops the hammer, meaning the hammer needs to be cocked before the gun can be fired. Single action weapons are generally carried "locked and cocked," with the hammer cocked, chamber loaded, and safety on. They can allow very rapid, accurate targeting but require significant practice and caution.
It's worth nothing that a "single action revolver" is drastically different from a single action pistol, as a single action revolver is almost always a replica of an older "cowboy revolver" which utilizes a loading gate instead of a cylinder, and must be cocked before every shot, rather than a pistol, which cocks the hammer upon recoiling. Generally speaking, a single-action revolver is too difficult to use reliably for defensive purposes.
Double action is a bit more complex. The trigger can either raise and drop the hammer, or simply drop the hammer from it's pre-cocked position. The first shot is a longer, heavier double action pull, but the slide cocks the hammer for single action follow up shots. This potentially gives the best of single and double action, but it's also more complex and can be quite difficult to get used to.
Double-Action-Only (DAO) is where the gun fires in double action for every shot, like a revolver. It has the advantage of less complex action, with a trigger pull generally improved over a typical double action. Most lack safeties, so all they user has to do is point and shoot. Probably the best choice for a beginner.
Q: What is the best caliber?A: This is hotly debated, but there are some ground rules.
The wider and heavier the bullets are, the more impact they'll have on the target, and the faster they'll put them down. Higher velocity ensures more effective expansion of hollow point bullets and such, as well as increased penetration of bullets in general. Too much velocity means the bullets won't penetrate deep enough in the target to be lethal.
However, heavier bullets means more recoil, and higher velocity means hotter powder loads, which in turn generally means bigger flash, which can be a bad disadvantage at night.
The author's personal rule of thumb, is to take the largest caliber that doesn't sacrifice shooting ability and capacity too much. That is, if the .45 ACP pistol is hard to control and doesn't carry enough rounds, there is nothing wrong with a .40 S&W or a 9mm Parabellum. Shoot the gun and the bullet that fits you the best, not necessarily the one that looks the best on paper. Despite the complaining to the contrary, any modern bullet can kill.
The most common defensive calibers in the US tend to be; .380 ACP / 9mm Short, 9mm Parabellum, .38 Special, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, .357 Sig, .44 Special, and .357 Magnum.
In some other countries, military calibers are banned, causing oddball cartridges like 9x21mm IMI to be the common option. Otherwise, 9mm is fairly dominant as far as handguns go globally, except in areas where large amounts of surplus mean you'll find 7.62x25mm Tokarev ammo, and
.44 Magnum, .454 Cassul, .45 Long Colt (with modern loadings), .50 Action Express and other stout loadings are probably beyond the needed firepower for human targets, though those in bear country might find the need for such a powerful handgun.
Q: How should I pick ammo?
A: You can find details on identifying ammunition at this page. For range use FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) is fine. For self defense, JHP (Jacketed Hollow Point) is generally considered the best choice, as it expands upon impact to increase stopping power and has less of a tendency to penetrate the bad guy and kill someone behind them.
Essentially, a good bullet expands when it hits the target to at least one and a half times it's own size, and penetrates around 12 to 18 inches, where they will reach internal organs but not leave the target and hit something behind them.
Other types of bullets exist that often have a strong appeal for self defense. EFMJ (Expanding Full Metal Jackets) are bullets that look, and feed like FMJ (as some guns will jam with JHP) but expand. They don't expand as well, but they lack the stigma of hollow points and are used by some cops that aren't allowed to carry JHP.
Frangible ammo is also hotly debated. Magsafe and other well known brands use a bullet that is either made of compressed powder, or made of a soft nose containing pellets that prevents penetration in interior walls and ricochets in a closed environment. Many also do not contain lead (Non-Toxic ammo) due to this latter use. Many shooting schools require frangible, non toxic ammo to preserve their ranges, but generally speaking, these rounds lack the penetration to be a serious option for defensive shooting.
Ask around for a reliable brand. Look up typical ballistic results. Do some tests for yourself, and fire at least one hundred rounds to see how reliable the ammunition is. Fire a few at night. Too many people have no clue how their defense ammo shoots because practice ammo is cheaper.
One final tip: If you reload bullets, try to avoid using them in a defense gun. While it's legitimate to most shooters, any competent lawyer will catch the detail that you "make bullets" and throw you in the worst way possible. It's possible to have an expert explain why this is not true, but it's hassle one could do well avoiding.
Q: How do I keep a gun safely in a house with my family / roommates?
A: People will recommend gun cabinets, gun locks, hiding them. While locked cabinets prevent theft, a defensive gun will probably not have the luxury of being locked up. If you can find a fast method of doing so, go for it. Otherwise, the best option is
probably telling family exactly where the gun it, showing it to them to fulfill their curiosity, and putting some respect into them over what it can do. Shoot a watermelon or a jug of water, the same concept as showing someone a stove burns them, it has been said.Q: How much maintenance does a gun require?
A: All guns should be at least field stripped and cleaned after each shooting session to prevent buildup of powder and bullet residue.Depending on the gun, you might need some basic tools, especially for removing the grip panels, if it has them. At minimum:
- Basic cleaning kit for your gun with various size nylon brushes and a hooked rod for patches
- Cleaning patches
- Gun oil
- Solvent
- Paper towels
- Necessary tools to strip the gun down, generally a flathead screwdriver and a non-metal pin punch
- Gloves (recommended as gun solvents are highly caustic)
- Q-tips
- Tooth brush
- Work surface cover
- Bronze brush for harder fouling
Any semi-automatic also needs good magazines, so don't skimp on them, and replace the springs regularly. If a gun starts to misfeed for no reason, it generally means the springs have been worn down. Contrary to popular belief, springs don't wear down over time, but over being loaded and unloaded, basically, used.
Revolvers, alternatively just need the cylinder popped, each chamber cleaned thoroughly, like the barrel, then any fouling on the forcing cone and breechface cleaned (absolutely no oil near the firing pin area.) They are usually not detailed stripped due to their internal complexity.
Q: How much should I expect to pay?
A: On the lower end, expect from $300 for a used factory gun. You shouldn't have to pay more than $800, though some semi-custom 1911s and H&K products will cost right in that range. Some surplus guns may also be good purchases, though any older or used gun should be checked with a gunsmith.
Q: What else should I buy with the gun?A: Before anything, solid eye and ear protection that is rated for firearms. Don't short cut with sports gear and generic earplugs. It's not worth permanent damage. A single gunshot has the same sound level as a jet engine, which can damage your hearing with a single exposure. Your hearing doesn't regenerate, either. You might question the glasses, too, but remember ricochets are not uncommon, and even functional guns can spray lead pieces and unburned powder.
A basic cleaning kit with brushes, patches and solvents for regular maintenance, a larger one if you have more than one gun. A quality kit with exchangeable brushes will cost less in the long run. Many people also use a tooth brush for small cleaning.
A sturdy, preferably lockable gun case is essential, even if you don't plan on locking it up. Public transportation without a case is considered brandishing. A soft case can cost as little as twenty dollars, and a hard, lockable case can be anywhere from thirty to several hundred dollars.
Most guns come with gun locks from the factory, but if they don't, you may want to pick one up, depending on what the handgun is used for - a lock will be less of an option if you only own one gun, and use it for defensive use, for example. Gun locks are cheap - most police department give them out for free.
For most defensive use, you'll want at least two spare magazines (or speedloaders and such for revolvers). Serious shooters tend to double the number of magazines, so they can swap out the ones in use as springs wear down. Magazines can cost from twenty to sixty dollars a piece.
Depending on what you need the handgun for, a good holster will be a wise investment. Cheap holstetrs are like cheap tires on a car. Not worth the trouble. Kydex and leather are the dominant materials for concealed carry holsters, and the options are truly endless. (Note: A link to a holster article will be placed here.) Price tend to start from fifty dollars.
Q: What kind of training should I seek?A: As much as you can. Take a hunter's safety course, at the absolute minimum, as they're available across the country. A concealed carry course is wise even for those who don't carry, as they give much legal and mindset advice. Find classes, get a good setup and stick with it, train regularly. But make sure you train well.
See if you can find a beginner's course, potentially a discount through the gun store you purchased your handgun at. NRA certified trainers are not hard to source.
Many DVDs are available on the market that show a variety of skills, among them names like Viking Tactics, Magpul Dynamics, Tactical Response, or well-known individuals like Gabriel Suarez, Jerry Miculek
Eventually, one of the best ways to train is with competitive shooting. The
biggest names are IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation), USPSA (United States Practical Shooting Association) and IDPA (International Defensive Pistol Association). The first two are rather flashy and take expensive gear, though both have limited classes that allow completely stock guns. IDPA is specifically designed to simulate defensive encounters. Either way, nothing prepares you for stress like performing in front of twenty or thirty shooters that know exactly what you're doing wrong. Some of the best shooters, like late NYPD stakeout officer Jim Cirillo, built their skills with simple competition.
Years of PPC (Police Pistol Competition) were what people contributed to Cirillo's impressive gunfight record, including shooting three perpatrators in a hostage situation without any of them getting off a single shot, with his simple S&W revolver in under three seconds. The front sight on his revolver was sharp, instead of blurred by the normal adrenaline rush tunnel vision, and his trigger presses were even. Intense competition stress had taught him how to cope. Not everyone can do that, and not everyone will get into the situation that requires such coordination, but everything helps.
Don't rely on any one form of training, find buddies who shoot often, take classes, keep your skills sharp and critique yourself to see what you can improve on. Like any other hobby, shooting is about improvement as well as spending money and showing off.
Common Models
Here are some layman's descriptions for the common models of handgun out there.
1911 [Kimber 1911 Image] [Rock Island Armory M1911A1 Image]
Known to some as the "Colt" or "the .45," the 1911 has been an American favorite for just short of a century. Known mostly for it's .45 chambering but can be found in most any caliber. The 1911 is the epitome of the professional's gun, comfortable, accurate, controllable and eminently customizable. However, it's low magazine capacity and single-action operation make it a difficult choice for beginners. 1911s tend to be rather expensive, and due to their great proliferation, quality can vary hugely.
Bersa Thunder [Image]
What is essentially an Argentinian take on the Walther PPk, the Thunder is an affordable .380 with a few more features than the Makarov or PP models. It's slightly more expensive, a little more than $200, with a grip tang, better stock sights, magazine release and a slightly less weight.
1911 [Kimber 1911 Image] [Rock Island Armory M1911A1 Image]
Known to some as the "Colt" or "the .45," the 1911 has been an American favorite for just short of a century. Known mostly for it's .45 chambering but can be found in most any caliber. The 1911 is the epitome of the professional's gun, comfortable, accurate, controllable and eminently customizable. However, it's low magazine capacity and single-action operation make it a difficult choice for beginners. 1911s tend to be rather expensive, and due to their great proliferation, quality can vary hugely.
Bersa Thunder [Image]
What is essentially an Argentinian take on the Walther PPk, the Thunder is an affordable .380 with a few more features than the Makarov or PP models. It's slightly more expensive, a little more than $200, with a grip tang, better stock sights, magazine release and a slightly less weight.
Beretta [92F Image] [PX4 "Storm" Image]
The sidearm of the US forces for several decades, the 92F has become one of the most popular pistols across the US, immensely common among police service and private citizens. It is reliable, accurate, and carries many rounds (18 for the 9mm version with modern magazines). However, it's large grip and long trigger make it a difficult gun for shooters with smaller hands, and it is quite a large gun. One of the original "wonder-nines," it is very widespread and is normally a double action design with a decocker/safety on the slide. Compact, slimline, reinforced slide and DAO versions are also common. The 92 can be found for $500 on average used.
The PX4 is also gaining in popularity, as Beretta's polymer framed entry into the market. Though internally different, it's operation and takedown is identical to the Beretta 92, so many of the same rules apply. It is acclaimed for it's accuracy and ergonomics, but it's recent entry means the price is still high, between $500-$600 on average.
Browning Hi-Power [Image]
The very first high-capacity nine, the Hi-Power has been used by countless nations around the world, so much that the word "Browning" is synonymous with "handgun" in most countries. Though longer and packing less rounds than most of a similar size, Hi-Powers are thinner than most designs . Traditionally single action, Hi-Powers are available in conventional double/single action and increased capacity magazines in modern productions. A surplus Browning caan cost between $200 and $500 on average, and a production model generally over $600.
CZ-75 [CZ 75 Image] [ CZ 82 Info Sheet]
One of the original "wonder nines," the CZ75 is considered one of the finest nine millimeter pistols ever designed, with great ergonomics, a slick trigger and fine craftsmanship. It's a very accurate and reliable design, although large and heavy for carry. A number of variants are now offered through CZ-USA. New models cost just above $500 on average.
The surplus Cz-82, or the Dan Wesson imported CZ-83 is essentially a product-improved Makarov, with double the magazine cap, better controls and a fairly good trigger for a military gun. Considering most cost less than $400, the CZ-82 can be an extremely good deal for concealed carry. Military models in 9mm Makarov can cost just over $200 with holster, cleaning rod and spare magazine. Modern variants are also found in .32 ACP and .380 ACP.
Desert Eagle [XIX Model Image] [Chamber Image]
Having this handgun on the list alone will cause some complaints, but it's definitely worth touching on for sake of how well known it is. The Desert Eagle comes in three calibers not normally found in autoloaders: .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, and .50 AE. Due to the power of these cartridges, it uses a gas system similar to that found in a rifle. It's big, powerful, and accurate. Though not as bad for combat use as some make it out to be - it is the only common magnum autoloader, after all, for most, the increased maintenance, cost, and size would probably make the Desert Eagle a bad choice. It was built from the ground up as a hunting handgun, hence a light single action trigger and cutouts for scope rings on the barrel. They can cost from $800 to $2000, depending on the model and configuration.
Glock [Glock 17 Image] [Glock Family Chart]
Not the original plastic gun, but definitely the most influential. The Glock models dominate the police market and are extremely popular across the US, as well as being used by the police forces of the UK, Germany, Austria, Australia and several other nations. It is extremely reliable (though reloads aren't recommended) and very durable. The Glock's most popular and sometimes controversial trait is that it is extremely simple. No safeties, no long trigger pull or decocker. Just a trigger. It is often described as the revolver of pistols in terms of reliability and simplicity. Another reason they are liked is that the trigger is basically single-action - despite being a striker fired pistol, it has a scant 4.5 lb trigger weight, less than a typical 1911.
Glocks come in a staggering number of variants, and parts, holsters, and general knowledge on their operation is fairly easy to get your hands on. They are currently in the fourth generation. Third generation models are relatively common used, and tend to run between $400 to $500.
Heckler & Koch [Mk23 Image] [USP Image] [P30 Image] [P2000 Image] [HK45 Image] [P7 Image]
H&K has sold a number of interesting pistol designs over the years, though their primary seller of late has been the USP (Universal Service Pistol) series. Designed to be as modular as possible, the USP is available in a staggering number of variants in three of the most common calibers (9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP). The USP is extremely rugged and accurate, as well as packing a decent capacity for the size. However, it's quite bulky, even in Compact format and is somewhat unsuited to concealed carry. USPs cost between $700 to $800 on average, with limited edition models breaking the one-thousand mark.
The P2000 and P30 are similar in that they are USP derived pistols that are not available in .45 ACP, but save much space and are generally considered ergonomically superior in grip size and trigger pull. They are gaining popularity with law enforcement organizations and come with HK options like the LEM double-action-only trigger systems. The HK45 is another slimmed-down USP derivative, meant to duplicate some of the strong points of the 1911. While still retaining HK controls, it has a longer barrel, thinner grip and a more convenient safety.
The P7 is discontinued, but worth covering as it comes up every now and again in used sales. It is known as the "squeeze-cocker" for a lever in the front of the grip that cocks the pistol. This feature makes it very fast to fire, if a little odd to get used to. Incorporating an unusual hydraulic buffer system, they are generally well liked, reliable and suited to concealed carry.
Finally, the Mk23 is worth covering as one of HK's most infamous pistols. It was designed for the US SOCOM "Offensive Handgun" requirements and is the basis of the USP series. A number are available for civilian sales, though they are quite expensive at over two-thousand dollars apiece, and can only take Mk23 specific accessories. It is known for a very large grip and overall size that makes it unsuited to most uses.
Hi-Point [C9 Image]
The name "Hi-Point" will bring a scowl to the face of many an elitist shooter. The company is known for offering a number of rifles and pistols, which rather than using locked breeches found in conventional designs, direct blowback. Available in .380 ACP, 9mm Para, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. Capacity is rather pathetic at 8 rounds for a 9mm, due to the single-stack magazine, and the trigger is unremarkable. What's the good part? It only retails at $165. Hi-Points are incredibly cheap, but reliable, and the factory will repair anything with the gun, doesn't matter who sends it in or what happened. Interestingly enough, their models are also rated for +P ammunition.
Makarov (PM - Pistolet Makarova) [Image]
Like most Soviet designs, the PM is found in many variations in a number of states. It is based broadly off the Walther PP, and is an excellent pistol for the price, generally $150-$200. It carries a round slightly more effective than the .380, has a decocker and a half-decent trigger. It's only potential problem is the European magazine release, though it probably isn't an issue for the use the Makarov generally meets.
Sig-Sauer / SigArms [P226 Image] [SigPro Image] [P230 Image]
Sig designs are known for typically excellent Swiss workmanship and are often considered the epitome of the ideal double-action pistol. Their flagship design is the P220 series, now available in a staggering number of variants in all popular calibers. They generally lack a safety, opting for a decocker, and are generally fairly bulky. Supremely accurate and reliable, as one might expect, they are very expensive, as are the magazines.
The SigPro is the first polymer endeavor in the Sig series, and one of the first modern pistols to incorporate interchangeable backstraps for different hand sizes. It costs a good bit less than the traditional Sig pistols, and while slightly large for carry, it is as reliable as it's P220 cousins.
Recently, Sig has come out with the P250, intended to compete with pistols like the Beretta Px4, S&W M&P, Springfield XD and Glock. Compact and reliable, it hasn't been very popular due to the unique, but expensive removable trigger mechanism, which is viewed by many as a gimmick.
Sig also sold the P230, a Walther-PPk clone designed for concealed carry, now discontinued in favor of the slightly modernized P232. They also produce the P238, a sub-compact 1911 pistol in .380, and the GSR (Granite Series Rail) 1911 line.
As I update this article, I have to say that SigArms has unfortunately lost much of the quality that made it so famous over the years, and their guns are losing favor for older, German-produced Sig guns, or other models like the FNP series or S&W M&P.
Smith & Wesson Revolvers [S&W Model 60 Image]
A generic name for a line of very popular snub nose revolvers made by S&W, the "Chief's Special" designs were widely produced and just as widely copied. Along with the Colt Bodyguard, it is the granddaddy of all snub noses. Five shots of .38 Special, not a very impressive amount of firepower, but in a very handy and reliable package. There is an incredible variety of accessories made for these very common guns. "Chief's Special" can apply to the original S&W models, (Model 36, 60) Taurus clones (primarily the 85) and some of the recent Ruger models (SP101 and LCR). Price tends to float just around $400.
The sidearm of the US forces for several decades, the 92F has become one of the most popular pistols across the US, immensely common among police service and private citizens. It is reliable, accurate, and carries many rounds (18 for the 9mm version with modern magazines). However, it's large grip and long trigger make it a difficult gun for shooters with smaller hands, and it is quite a large gun. One of the original "wonder-nines," it is very widespread and is normally a double action design with a decocker/safety on the slide. Compact, slimline, reinforced slide and DAO versions are also common. The 92 can be found for $500 on average used.
The PX4 is also gaining in popularity, as Beretta's polymer framed entry into the market. Though internally different, it's operation and takedown is identical to the Beretta 92, so many of the same rules apply. It is acclaimed for it's accuracy and ergonomics, but it's recent entry means the price is still high, between $500-$600 on average.
Browning Hi-Power [Image]
The very first high-capacity nine, the Hi-Power has been used by countless nations around the world, so much that the word "Browning" is synonymous with "handgun" in most countries. Though longer and packing less rounds than most of a similar size, Hi-Powers are thinner than most designs . Traditionally single action, Hi-Powers are available in conventional double/single action and increased capacity magazines in modern productions. A surplus Browning caan cost between $200 and $500 on average, and a production model generally over $600.
CZ-75 [CZ 75 Image] [ CZ 82 Info Sheet]
One of the original "wonder nines," the CZ75 is considered one of the finest nine millimeter pistols ever designed, with great ergonomics, a slick trigger and fine craftsmanship. It's a very accurate and reliable design, although large and heavy for carry. A number of variants are now offered through CZ-USA. New models cost just above $500 on average.
The surplus Cz-82, or the Dan Wesson imported CZ-83 is essentially a product-improved Makarov, with double the magazine cap, better controls and a fairly good trigger for a military gun. Considering most cost less than $400, the CZ-82 can be an extremely good deal for concealed carry. Military models in 9mm Makarov can cost just over $200 with holster, cleaning rod and spare magazine. Modern variants are also found in .32 ACP and .380 ACP.
Desert Eagle [XIX Model Image] [Chamber Image]
Having this handgun on the list alone will cause some complaints, but it's definitely worth touching on for sake of how well known it is. The Desert Eagle comes in three calibers not normally found in autoloaders: .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, and .50 AE. Due to the power of these cartridges, it uses a gas system similar to that found in a rifle. It's big, powerful, and accurate. Though not as bad for combat use as some make it out to be - it is the only common magnum autoloader, after all, for most, the increased maintenance, cost, and size would probably make the Desert Eagle a bad choice. It was built from the ground up as a hunting handgun, hence a light single action trigger and cutouts for scope rings on the barrel. They can cost from $800 to $2000, depending on the model and configuration.
Glock [Glock 17 Image] [Glock Family Chart]
Not the original plastic gun, but definitely the most influential. The Glock models dominate the police market and are extremely popular across the US, as well as being used by the police forces of the UK, Germany, Austria, Australia and several other nations. It is extremely reliable (though reloads aren't recommended) and very durable. The Glock's most popular and sometimes controversial trait is that it is extremely simple. No safeties, no long trigger pull or decocker. Just a trigger. It is often described as the revolver of pistols in terms of reliability and simplicity. Another reason they are liked is that the trigger is basically single-action - despite being a striker fired pistol, it has a scant 4.5 lb trigger weight, less than a typical 1911.
Glocks come in a staggering number of variants, and parts, holsters, and general knowledge on their operation is fairly easy to get your hands on. They are currently in the fourth generation. Third generation models are relatively common used, and tend to run between $400 to $500.
Heckler & Koch [Mk23 Image] [USP Image] [P30 Image] [P2000 Image] [HK45 Image] [P7 Image]
H&K has sold a number of interesting pistol designs over the years, though their primary seller of late has been the USP (Universal Service Pistol) series. Designed to be as modular as possible, the USP is available in a staggering number of variants in three of the most common calibers (9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP). The USP is extremely rugged and accurate, as well as packing a decent capacity for the size. However, it's quite bulky, even in Compact format and is somewhat unsuited to concealed carry. USPs cost between $700 to $800 on average, with limited edition models breaking the one-thousand mark.
The P2000 and P30 are similar in that they are USP derived pistols that are not available in .45 ACP, but save much space and are generally considered ergonomically superior in grip size and trigger pull. They are gaining popularity with law enforcement organizations and come with HK options like the LEM double-action-only trigger systems. The HK45 is another slimmed-down USP derivative, meant to duplicate some of the strong points of the 1911. While still retaining HK controls, it has a longer barrel, thinner grip and a more convenient safety.
The P7 is discontinued, but worth covering as it comes up every now and again in used sales. It is known as the "squeeze-cocker" for a lever in the front of the grip that cocks the pistol. This feature makes it very fast to fire, if a little odd to get used to. Incorporating an unusual hydraulic buffer system, they are generally well liked, reliable and suited to concealed carry.
Finally, the Mk23 is worth covering as one of HK's most infamous pistols. It was designed for the US SOCOM "Offensive Handgun" requirements and is the basis of the USP series. A number are available for civilian sales, though they are quite expensive at over two-thousand dollars apiece, and can only take Mk23 specific accessories. It is known for a very large grip and overall size that makes it unsuited to most uses.
Hi-Point [C9 Image]
The name "Hi-Point" will bring a scowl to the face of many an elitist shooter. The company is known for offering a number of rifles and pistols, which rather than using locked breeches found in conventional designs, direct blowback. Available in .380 ACP, 9mm Para, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. Capacity is rather pathetic at 8 rounds for a 9mm, due to the single-stack magazine, and the trigger is unremarkable. What's the good part? It only retails at $165. Hi-Points are incredibly cheap, but reliable, and the factory will repair anything with the gun, doesn't matter who sends it in or what happened. Interestingly enough, their models are also rated for +P ammunition.
Makarov (PM - Pistolet Makarova) [Image]
Like most Soviet designs, the PM is found in many variations in a number of states. It is based broadly off the Walther PP, and is an excellent pistol for the price, generally $150-$200. It carries a round slightly more effective than the .380, has a decocker and a half-decent trigger. It's only potential problem is the European magazine release, though it probably isn't an issue for the use the Makarov generally meets.
Sig-Sauer / SigArms [P226 Image] [SigPro Image] [P230 Image]
Sig designs are known for typically excellent Swiss workmanship and are often considered the epitome of the ideal double-action pistol. Their flagship design is the P220 series, now available in a staggering number of variants in all popular calibers. They generally lack a safety, opting for a decocker, and are generally fairly bulky. Supremely accurate and reliable, as one might expect, they are very expensive, as are the magazines.
The SigPro is the first polymer endeavor in the Sig series, and one of the first modern pistols to incorporate interchangeable backstraps for different hand sizes. It costs a good bit less than the traditional Sig pistols, and while slightly large for carry, it is as reliable as it's P220 cousins.
Recently, Sig has come out with the P250, intended to compete with pistols like the Beretta Px4, S&W M&P, Springfield XD and Glock. Compact and reliable, it hasn't been very popular due to the unique, but expensive removable trigger mechanism, which is viewed by many as a gimmick.
Sig also sold the P230, a Walther-PPk clone designed for concealed carry, now discontinued in favor of the slightly modernized P232. They also produce the P238, a sub-compact 1911 pistol in .380, and the GSR (Granite Series Rail) 1911 line.
As I update this article, I have to say that SigArms has unfortunately lost much of the quality that made it so famous over the years, and their guns are losing favor for older, German-produced Sig guns, or other models like the FNP series or S&W M&P.
Smith & Wesson Revolvers [S&W Model 60 Image]
A generic name for a line of very popular snub nose revolvers made by S&W, the "Chief's Special" designs were widely produced and just as widely copied. Along with the Colt Bodyguard, it is the granddaddy of all snub noses. Five shots of .38 Special, not a very impressive amount of firepower, but in a very handy and reliable package. There is an incredible variety of accessories made for these very common guns. "Chief's Special" can apply to the original S&W models, (Model 36, 60) Taurus clones (primarily the 85) and some of the recent Ruger models (SP101 and LCR). Price tends to float just around $400.
Smith & Wesson Pistols [S&W "Third Generation" Image] [Sigma Image] [S&W M&P Image]
[S&W 99 Image]
The "Third Generation" is the common name for alloy pistols, based slightly off the 1911 design. Similar in controls to the Beretta 92, these pistols were among the early "wonder nines" and have had steady, if unspectacular sales in the US for several decades. They are large, reliable and come in a number of configurations. Many older Model 39s and 59s can be found used for reasonable prices.
Somewhat maligned, the Sigma series is S&Ws first attempt at polymer pistols - though it was so similar to the Glock that they had to negotiate a lawsuit to continue producing it. Original Sigmas are a bit of a buyer beware pistol, as they crop up dirt-cheap used. While not terribly unreliable or inaccurate, poor ergonomics and a terribly heavy trigger pull made them unpopular. It is said that the later productions had much better triggers.
The S&W M&P is quickly becoming one of the most popular polymer service pistols, being one of S&W's best successes. The combine Glock-like reliability and simplicity with excellent ergonomics, a good grip tang, and options like long slide variants, safeties (on .45 ACP models) and a large caliber selection. A number of differing backstrap sizes and a reasonable trigger make it a good mid-sized pistol for a variety of hand sizes. Along with the Springfield XD, many consider the M&P a highly competitive, if slightly pricier alternative to the Glock series.
A slightly lesser known pistol that has been around for a few years is the S&W 99, essentially a slightly redesigned Walther P99. It has interchangable backstraps, a slightly redesigned triggerguard and comes in .45 ACP as well as 9mm and .40 S&W. It is worth noting that the various models do not necessarily fit into the more readily available Walther P99 holsters.
Springfield Armory [XD Image]
The XD was initially known for being a "Glock alternative" that had a few more safety features. It is a Croatian HS-2000 that has been imported by Springfield Armory, and over the years the basic model has evolved into compact variants and larger, higher capacity XD-M models. Reasonably reliable, it incorporates a grip safety, somewhat uncommon on polymer pistols. The trigger is often described as being closer to a revolver than a typical pistol, longer and slightly "mushier." Parts are becoming increasingly easy to find and many gunsmiths will work over the XD pistol. Many models are available, from compact models, to a number of mid-size "service" models, and some with features like longer frames and manual thumb safeties.
Firearms - A basic guide to different types of firearms.
Accessories - The add-ons that may just give you an edge in that gunfight.
Ammunition - An overview of types of ammo and reloading.
Weapons reviews - A user-created database of reviews for various zombie-slaying implements.
Handguns, Rifles, Shotguns, Heavy Weaponry - A user-created guide to using and maintaining firearms you are likely to come across.
John_234 |
Latest page update: made by John_234
, Feb 5 2012, 12:48 AM EST
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About This Update
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| phoenixavengerguy | Re: What handgun should I buy? (page: 1 2 3) | 48 | Dec 4 2011, 6:19 PM EST by John_234 | ||
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Thread started: Jun 9 2011, 10:07 PM EDT
Watch
Glock ! They're notoriously reliable, user friendly with almost no learning curve, plus they're usually chambered in commonly found calibers. 9 mil is good and common. If concealment is desired, get a glock 27.
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| toxic_shock | What CC gun should I buy? (page: 1 2) | 24 | Nov 29 2011, 8:47 PM EST by 2WheeledSpeed | ||
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Thread started: Nov 28 2011, 2:07 AM EST
Watch
Not long ago I asked what rifle I should buy for my bug-out bag. That has been but on the back burner now that I can legally carry a concealed weapon. I have been carrying my Bersa Thunder 380 for a couple weeks now. I'm looking for something larger and more powerful. I realize that a gun does not need to be the size of a bar coaster to be able to effectively conceal it.
Here are the guidelines that I am trying to stick with: Needs to be 9mm Needs to be concealable, but doesn't need to be as small as a Thunder 380. Thin as possible would be nice Needs to hold more than 7 rounds. Needs to have a manual safety Needs to cost less than $450 new or used Prefer steel frame, but may consider polymer. Needs to have moderately affordable mags and holsters available I'm looking for any experiences and suggestions you have to throw at me. Right now I'm looking at hi-power clones and I've thought about the Stoeger Cougar, Jericho 941 and Taurus 911. But I've never fired any of these weapons and there are no rental ranges in my area. Any input on concealed carry in general is going to be greatly appreciated. |
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| tvercetti1 | Re: What handgun should I buy? (page: 1 2 3 4 5) | 81 | Sep 16 2011, 1:39 PM EDT by John_234 | ||
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Thread started: May 28 2011, 6:32 PM EDT
Watch
I say get a handgun identical to that of your local law enforcement agency. Try to get the EXACT model they use so it will be possible for you to use thier magazines IF YOU ARE IN A PINCH and you had to do so. I f you cannot figure that out then you have several other decent options. One is to go simply for a high capacity .40S&W such as a Glock 22.
Decent stopping power and good capacity (15 rounds unless your stuck in Canada LOL) and common enough ammunition that should allow you to find more at some point, hopefully without too much difficulty. If that fails, get yourself something in 9mm with a high capacity. 9mm Parabellum/Luger is the most common handgun/smg cartridge around in most cases. That would be your best bet if all else fails. |
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