What kind of equipment would you take along?

Duct Tape:
With tape you can tape various objects to other objects, like knifes to weapons or bitten humans to poles. A must for the handy-man Zombie Survivor. (remember tape is not as strong as rope, use rope when it has to hold a lot of weight or pressure) Duct tape or gorilla tape is best.






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Flashlight:
When it's dark a flashlight is obligatory. Flashlight produces a light beam that will light up the surrounding area. Plus, powerful flashlights can even blind zombies for a short time giving you better opportunities of surviving. And remember, get the best possible flashlight, and make sure it's solid. Better flashlight = holds longer. A more solid and heavy one can double as a weapon.
Tip: Tape the flashlight to your weapon, jacket or helmet for hands-free flashlight operation. (See tape above)
Note: Some flashlights eats battery power, like zombies eat brains. Be prepared and get some extra batteries. or even rechargeable, or you could just buy an LED flashlight, as they last many times longer than conventional flashlights.

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Backpack:
An obvious necessity for any survivor, a backpack holds many of the other equipment you need in a way that keeps you mobile. Great for moving on foot but also useful when using other modes of transportation, whether a car or bike, boat or plane. Always good to have it packed and ready should you need to bail. The size, style, and capacity depend on availability, need, and preference, but these range from large hiking packs, to military packs, to those used by kids in school. Never a good idea to carry too much, or too little.

An external-frame pack has the advantage of easier frame replacement and a solid frame that can dual-task. An internal frame pack hold the weight closer to your body (an advantage designed originally for mountaineers). A frame-less pack should be avoided if at all possible for loads over about twenty or thirty pounds. A wide, comfortable, well-padded hip belt is a back saver.

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Utility Rope:
Rope may sound like a stupid thing to carry around, but rope can be a lifesaver. Rope can be used for everything from shelter building to binding Zombie bitten humans to poles (like tape, but stronger). Rope can also be used as an escape plan on top of buildings, thus allowing you and your group the option of "rappelling" down.
Like they say in Boondock Saints, "Charlie Bronson's always got rope."

LINE HANDLING SAFETY WARNINGS!

Don’t let your line hang loose down on your leg; Have it in your backpack or other container. This makes the line easy to grab for you, but hard for the skin jobs.
NEVER EVER STRADDLE A LINE! “Straddling” means to have one foot on one side of the line and the other foot on the other side, so the line goes between your legs. If you do, there is a chance, however slight, of the line suddenly ‘jumping’ and hitting you in the groin, potentially with enough power to saw you in half (see “Men Of Honor”, 2000, for an example of what can happen). To cross a line, STEP ON IT with one foot, then cross over with the other. Exception: When rappelling, it’s ok to let the line run between your legs (only if unavoidable).
Do not stand in a bight; In other words, do not allow a line to wrap around you body, even if it’s laying on the ground. If you do, the line could suddenly come taut, and chop your leg off.
Do not wrap the line around any part of your body, including your arms; It’s ‘easy’ to coil the line by wrapping it from you arm (over the hand, under the elbow, and back), but if the line comes taut, you will loose your arm.
Do not attempt to strangle a skin job with this; While it should be obvious, there is always someone who will try it. While it may or may not work (it’s debated), it will take a lot of time, time that the skin job’s buddies can use to overpower you. Instead, use the line to tie the skin job’s head to anything solid enough to prevent them from breaking it down, buying you time to escape.
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Gas Mask:
Contrary to popular myth, gas masks are easy to wear, for the most part, and strenuous activity can be engaged in while wearing. Also, the mask arrangement can be reversed, allowing for wear by either right or left-handed shooters. First, remove the filter and the filter’s air director (the black piece inside). Now remove the large, flat ring on the opposite side and the disk inside. Reinstall the air director on the opposite side, being sure to set both tabs through the holes without breaking them off. Pull the rubber piece through the hole (don’t pull too hard), then push it back into the hole until it sits flush. Re-attach the filter. Install the disk, gasket, and ring on the opposite side. If available, the carrier back should have a D-Ring on the carry strap; The size of ring used is exactly the right size to assist you in removing and installing the ring (the ring was designed specifically to the size of the D-Ring for this reason).

WARNING: When storing a gas mask, lay it as flat as it naturally lays when placed on a table; If available, use the insert to help the mask maintain it’s form. A MASK ALLOWED TO BE STORED DEFORMED (even for short periods) CAN CRACK, ROBBING IT OF ALL PROTECTIVE QUALITIES AND RENDING IT LESS THAN USELESS. Once the rubber has cracked, it can not be repaired. It’s dead weight. It not only will not be able to protect you from the virus, airborne contaminants (such as chlorine and chloride of ammonia gasses, toxic smoke, and even deliberately released chemicals, intended to kill off large numbers of skin jobs), it won’t even keep out the smell (which, in the majority of the equation, will be the most useful feature of the mask).

There are two major types of military as masks: The MCU-2P (left) and MCU-40/40A1 (right). The -2P has a wider view area and a tinted faceplate attachment that is easier to apply, the -35 is quite a bit more forgiving of abuse. Either provides the exact same protection to the wearer, as long as the user has properly used it. DO NOT TAKE A GAS MASK OFF A DEAD MAN; Irregardless what killed them, the mask itself can be contaminated, and it could be the mask itself that actually killed them (appearances notwithstanding).

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Lighter:
Many of you have listed this, so here it is! A lighter can be a useful tool, even beyond just lighting cigarettes. Fire may be needed for warmth, cooking, or even as a weapon. A lighter provides a ready supply of fire. Bingo! Just remember that you need to control any fire you start, and that these do run out of fuel eventually. Matches are also available, but are a little less convenient. Flint and steel kits are also available, a little more limited but are not rare and may be a better option.
Note: Smoking should be avoided not only for the negative health effects but also because it may attract zombie attention via scent.

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Portable Canteen:
Water is essential to survival without zombies, so adding them to your situation makes water more important. You will need a way to take water with you when your on the move. A canteen, as pictured will work, though you may want to put some thought into a larger container as fresh water may become harder to come by once civilization falls to the zombie hordes.
Try to keep containers full to prevent sloshing sounds giving away your position.
Besides carrying water, these can be used for other liquid transporting needs.







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Water Purifier:
Easy to use, light, and capable of lasting a long time before needing a new filter, a backpacking water purifier ensures that you won't go down to the host of nasties that can live in that placid little stream. Available from any outdoor store, this is one item that you shouldn't leave home without. Other alternatives include bleach (look up how to do this, and be careful or you'll poison yourself), boiling (requires time that varies on your altitude), or iodine (yuck).








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Water Purification Tablets:
Tablets used to purify water, such as the Iodine listed above. There are several different types of purification tablets available on the open market currently. Iodine is by far the most desired due to its track record. This small reference is just to inform one that you may acquire several types. Commercially you may find iodine tablets fairly easily, you may also find other chemicals that are said to be "easy on the stomach." I suggest if you want to use these, you take double the number with you. The chemical is weaker, which makes their used a tad less potent when dealing with strange little microbes that want to make you ill. You can find iodine in liquid form which can be easier to carry in large doses. If you use a 2% Iodine solution, use 8 drops, if 5%, use 4 drops. Wait half an hour before drinking.





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Navigation Tool:
Whether a simple compass, maps, or some cool electronic/satellite-linked/supercomputer gadget, having something besides the moss on the North side of a tree on hand may prove to be useful, if not essential. Be careful when choosing, as satellites, batteries, and working electrical outlets for recharging may become unreliable and/or scarce. You'd better know how to use this ahead of time, or it won't do you much good. Also, without a map, a compass loses some of its utility, but you can still determine a general direction.







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Knife:
As a general rule, kinve make HORRIBLE weapons; However, they are CRITICAL tools, with or without a skin job uprising. A wise man keeps a small knife, at least, on his person at all times. A knife can cut in rope, tape, clothe, wood, sticks, plastic, paper, if needed Zombies etc. etc.
See also The Bowie Hunting Knife entry on the Weapons and Gear page.

Special: Switchblade: Good for one handed opening to disentangle oneself from cordage, and to open up materials. DO NOT USE AS A WEAPON. While it has excellent intimidation value against inexperienced humans, it will have no value against skin jobs nor experienced humans.



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Grappling Hook:
It is debated whether zombies can, in fact, climb. Regardless, it is a safe bet that a clumsy corpse will not be able to get anywhere you can't get without climbing a line. These work great in a pinch for scaling tall trees, buildings, church spires, the Hoover Dam, what have you. It should be duly noted, however, that it is not a safe bet to get yourself stuck up in a high place, surrounded by an army of Zeke, and without rations or toilet paper. Carefully consider your situation before taking refuge in heights. Could be hooked on the back of a bumper and thrown at a zombie. Then, just drive and watch them crash into debris and still try to eat you.



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Entrenching Tool:
This can be used to dig trenches and earth walls. The good thing about them is that they are collapsible and portable. However, many avaialble on the general market are poorly-manufactured with inferior materials and NO worksmanship. One is well-cautioned to select one that is well-made, from a reputable supplier.






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Personal/Vehicle Radios:
Who could forget the need to stay informed? A radio can help you determine if there are folks around you locally that need help or can help you. You may also be able to inform others of your position in the event of an ambush. Often times people forget that communication is very much important in relationships and work environments. Think of this multiplied a thousand times when dealing with zombies. One miscommunication or lack of warning can cost your entire team, squad, group, or fortress. There are different kinds of radios, though. You've got weather radios, AM radios, FM, CB radios.
Although only a CB (Civilian Band) raio is depicted, one would be best proffitted to have multiple types of radios, including police/fire/ems/militry scanners, marine band radios (especially if operating on or near the water), and etertainment chanel radios (car radios) in case a signal is sent out by those staions.
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Binoculars:
Are a very useful device, when you need to scout ahead for Zombies or lack of Zombies in or around towns, cities, or from your stronghold to keep you and your group safe.









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Wireless Camera:
For the man who has to have it all; this wireless camera runs on a 12v battery and the receiver runs on 4 AA batteries. Good locations to place are vulnerable areas, your emergency escape exit (need to be able to tell if Zack is hanging out back there), in the cage you locked up a zombie to test its senses. The SVAT (company name) receiver can monitor up to 3 wireless cameras (one for your main entrance/exit, one for your emergency exit, one for your caged zombie!)
WARNING: A camera is NOT an adequate replacement for Human eyes. While they can SUPPLEMENT those eyes, they can never replace them. Do NOT allow yourself to be lulled into the false sense of security and general complacency caused by the “high-tech miracle solutions” mentality.


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Tactical Vest/Load Bearing Equipment:
Though the prospect of having up to 500 round of ammunition dangling from your chest may seem uncomfortable, a good, durable tactical vest is essential. A tactical vest negates the need to rummage through a backpack or cargo pocket for a spare magazine, saving reload time. Other equipment such as flashlights, carabiners, and hydration systems can easily be incorporated into your battle load. Even a simple air-soft vest can save precious seconds on your reload time. They are available online or at surplus stores.










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Survivor Combat Holster:
If you absolutely MUST carry a pistol, a holster is a must. In this example, a nylon holster was sewn to a nylon combat knife sheath, with a nylon leg belt; This puts the knife and the pistol not only in reach, but also on the same spot on your belt freeing space for other gear. (Also attached is a dual mag pouch to the leg belt, freeing up that little bit more space; However, this pouch is actually used to carry a multi-tool in on and a large pocket knife in the other, rather than mags, allowing the wearer to easily reach the most critical tools.)

(The example shown here has a “redgun”, non-firing training weapon, rather than a real gun for contrast.)


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Gasoline Generator:
For emergency power only; When power goes out, your home's defense (and your survival) is on the line. Standby generators can run on natural or LP gas as well as more traditional gasoline, kerosene, and deisel and have automatic startup and shutdown.
Power available can range from as little as 7kW to 45kW, run on natural or LP gas, gasoline, diesel, or various renewable fuels (such as corn-based ethanol), and a variety of features (auto-start/shut down, ultra quiet running, low emission, etc). This is definitely a pre-outbreak purchase, and can be applied to natural, man-made, and other disasters, as well as skin-jobs
DAYTIME USE: Restrict to radios only. NIGHTTIME USE: Restrict to radios and bare minimal lighting (such as nightlights to prevent tripping).
WARNING: Although loud and annoying, keep your gennies INSIDE your main fortified buildings; When insurengents in Iraq kidnapped the three contractors in the first significant terrorist act of that war, they did so by shutting down the genny supplying the building with power, forcing the occupants outside. HAD THE GENNY BEEN INSIDE THE HOUSE WHERE IT BELONGED, THE TERRORISTS WOULD NEVER HAVE GOTTEN NEAR IT.
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Since you will probably have to leave your fortress at least a few times, you should have gas for your vehicle. Remember, fuel is a CRITICAL resource, and should not be wasted in any ways; If your vehicles are not sufficently fuel efficinet, you should consider finding a new vehilce.
A reserve supply should be set aside and designated “Emergency Use Only”, with emphasis on use for genny’s.
Note: Although 2,000 gallons LOOKS like a lot, it's actually not so much as you might think. Buy one car tanks worht ever other month, and before you even know it you've gotten more than 2,000 gallons.
Hint: Some fuels go bad if they become stangant; That is, they're left in a tank for months and years on end. Every six months of so, refuel your car tank from your reserve supply, then re-fill the reserve supply with "fresh" gas. If possible, rig up a pump or other system to allow the fuels to keep moving in the tanks.
Although it may sound like a lot, 2,000 gallons isn’t really all that much; Buying a car tank’s worth every month to 6 months will fill your inventory fairly quickly. Every so often, siphon fuel off your reserve supply an put that into your car, then refill the difference to keep fresher fuel in the tank.

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Earplugs:
We all know how loud gun shots are, so why not? And also we all know how annoying a dead man's moans are, why not use this to drown them out?
Actually, many reasons: Earplugs, by definition, make it difficult if not impossible to hear what's going on around you. However, when operating in a group, this danger is significatly mitigated, and your hearing IS precious, therefore if you PLAN on a large degree of shooting you should wear them.






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Anytime you light a Molotov or shoot a flamethrower, or fire an RPG, or any other kind of fire-related object, make sure you have this in event of a fire. This can be used as a weapon if you bash them in the head with it enough times. Also, you can use the baking soda stuff to blind hostile survivors.

This applies wheterh or not the skin jobs have risen; Even common household fires can leave you HOMELESS unless you take positive control right away.















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Batteries:
When you don't have the crank-powered doodads you need, these little guys will come in handy.












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Chemical Light Sticks/Glow Sticks:
Intended mainly for signaling, Cyalumes and other chemical light sticks are small, light weight, waterproof, self contained and will generate light for hours once they have been activated. The chemicals are encased in a tough soft plastic and the chemicals inside are not harmful even if they do leak out. They even come in a wide range of colors. However, they are generally inadequate for searching, even in small areas.

They can, however, be used at night in pitch black as signals. If you are in an organized group of people, and find yourself injured for some reason, these can be lit up and thrown out in the open. "Hey guys, I know it's pitch black and you can't see me, I broke my leg! I am waving a blue glow stick in the air!"

Also, if you place a glow stick on the end of a string and spin it around really fast, air craft (in the United States) recognise that as a sort of universal "I'm here" signal. Good for calling in help early in the game before the planes are all gone.
They're also good if you drop one into a well or some other sort of deep hole, so you can judge how far down you would have to repel down to reach the bottom.
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Emergency Flares:
Flares use magnesium to burn for about 30 minutes in driving rain or blinding snow to provide excellent visibility in emergency situations, emitting a glaring red flame generally not more than 6” long.
However, like light sticks (above), flares are generally best utilized for signaling, rather than to provide light to see; While flares do provide that kind of light, they are generally do not cover an extraordinary large area, just over a small camp’s worth, but can be seen in even the worst conditions up to a tenth of a mile away. They also produce heat, allowing them to be seen by thermographic viewing equipment.
WARNING: Flares use burning magnesium; Handle with EXTREME caution.
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Battery-Powered Radio:
Emergency solar, crank generator, battery powered AM-FM Remember, most flashlight & radios use batteries which have a limited storage & usage time. Solar panel allows usage all day. Generator built in allows storage of power to work up to 10 hours at night with no batteries. BE PREPARED...NOT SCARED DURING THE NEXT BLACKOUT!!!

Ideal for power outages, hunting, hiking, biking, camping, travelling, etc.
Great for entertainment or emergency radio broadcasts! Either way, you don't want to be without one!
Includes an emergency strobe light for signaling help and four alternate power sources: solar, generator, battery, and DC charging. Extra light bulbs included.
Highly recommended to keep in your cars and home. Don't be caught in the dark with no communication (radio) to inform you of potential dangerous circumstances. When an emergency arises it will always work! Radio w/Lantern Light.
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Like a flashlight, but stationary. Provides light when you don't have enough extension cords.













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First Aid Kit:
A properly-stocked first aid kit is a must-have item in any event; Keep such a kit in your home, car, and anywhere else you spend more than 10 minutes at on any given day, and know where the first aid kits at work, school, and etc are located. If practicable, carry a kit with you at all times.

You can usually purchase them from your local drug, hardware, grocery, and many other stores, or build your own kit (especially if you have specific medical needs, such as allergies or anaphylaxis).
Whether you buy a first aid kit or put one together, ensure it has all the items you need, checking twice for specific needs, such as medications and other items your health-care provider suggests, and check it monthly, especially such things as expiration dates (replace any used or out-of-date contents; these can be used for training).
A first aid kit should, at minimum, include the majority of the following:

• Absorbent compress dressings (5×9 inches)
• Adhesive bandages (assorted sizes)
• Antiseptic/antibiotic ointment packets
• Blankets (preferably space blankets)
• Breathing barriers
• Hydrocortisone ointment packets
• Instant cold compress
• Latex gloves
• Packets of aspirin (81 mg each)
• Roller bandages and sterile gauze pads (various sizes)
• Scissors
• Thermometers
• Triangular bandages

The specific number and types of items should be considered by group size, number, and makeup; Large groups of well-trained skin job killers will generally require large numbers of the big stuff (battle dressings), while a school’s worth of children will probably run out of bandaids and antiseptics no matter how many you pack.
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Knife Sharpening Kit:
Perfect for sharpening those dull and zombie blood infested knifes.







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Hammer:
Many people mistakenly believe (due to Max BROOKE'S book) that a hammer is a worthless tool, but the truth is a hammer is ABSOLUTELY critical to fix things or even break in to a store or house. This tool can easily be hung from a load bearing vest or a utility strap. And if in dire need you could (not recommended) used it as a weapon in order to escape from a Zed. It could come and save you life while foraging for supplies in an urban environment.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Meals Ready-To-Eat (MRE's):
An MRE is a great food to bring along because:
1. There shelf life is many years (up to 4).
2. They are, as the name states, a meal ready to eat. You need no fire or other cooking method (it does make them taste better though).
3. The entire meal is in the pack.
The new MREs for the military contain a flameless heater to warm up the meal but they are illegal to buy or own. so i guess you just gotta eat it cold. The purchasable civilian MRE's contain all the items shown below beside the heater.
Here is an example of a military MRE:

• main course (entree)
• side dish
• dessert or snack (often a commercial candy or a fortified pastry)
• crackers or bread
• spread of cheese, peanut butter, or jelly
• powdered beverage mix: sport drink, dairy shake, coffee, and/or tea
• Utensils (usually a plastic spoon)
• flameless ration heater (FRH)
• Accessory pack:
  • chewing gum
  • water-resistant matches
  • napkin / toilet paper
  • moist towelette
  • seasonings, including salt, pepper, sugar, creamer, and/or Tabasco sauce

WARNING: Never, ever, eat the eggs. They are nasty beyond Human understanding, and would qualify as a violation of the Geneva Convention is served to POW's.
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PEPIRB:
Person Emergency Position Indicating Beacons ushers in a new level of survivability for individuals. At 6.5×3.8×1.9 inches (about shirt pocket size), 18.6 ounces (just a bit over a pound), and waterproof to 3.3 feet (will float), the PEPIRB sends out a signal to indicate your position to nearby rescuers. However, it can also reveal your position to nearby raiders; Due care and caution should be exercised in the use of this device.
Fortunately, most of those capable of detecting the signal will be rescuers; Most raiders will either not have access to the tracking equipment, or will be more interested in the guns they can take, and will generally ignore the trackers.



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Solar Oven:
If you're holed up and wanting to keep a low profile, how are you going to cook or at least heat your food? A solar oven provides warm food and drink as long as the sun is shining. Even if you have an energy source such as wood or propane to use, you might want to conserve them and use a less detectable source. Can Zed smell wood smoke?"-From the page "General Survival Gear"

Note that this is only one variation of a solar cooker. For more solar cookers, right click on the blue underlined portion above and click on "Open in new window"







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Big Bag Of Harsh Language:
Amazingly helpful at times; But always be prepared, if you open the bag, to back it up- With a .45 at minimum. If you don't have a BBOHL, you'd better fucking GET one.
Note: “Harsh” does not inherently mean ‘foul’, although it can.





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From the page "General Survival Gear":
General Survival Gear This page is for gear used in general SHTF situations.
So, I will be listing gear and resources that "official sources" say that you should have. Low-profile and you are able to start getting your friends and loved ones into the right state of mind to survive, without having them question your sanity.

First let's look at FEMA, after all they are the government and they are there to help us, right?

Here is An In-depth Guide to Citizen Preparedness and the corresponding PDF file.

The disasters that FEMA suggest that you prepare for are: floods, tornadoes, hurricanes, thunderstorms, winter storms and extreme cold, extreme heat, earthquakes, volcanoes, landslides, tsunamis, and fires. One or more of these should be applicable everywhere, so pick a few for your area. Be reasonable, i.e. don't prepare for a tsunami in Kansas, but volcano preparation would not be out of the question, as Yellowstone could blow. You get the idea. Look for local hazards to prepare for, as a survival situation is a survival situation, no matter the cause.

Oh yes, don't forget manmade disasters, chemical spills, disease, terrorism, etc. Tune in to what the people around you fear and use that to guide your preparations.

According to the Great Leaders in Washington you should have a home kit that contains "...essential food, water, and supplies for at least three days. Keep this kit in a desig­nated place and have it ready in case you have to leave your home quickly. Make sure all family members know where the kit is kept. Additionally, you may want to consider having supplies for sheltering for up to two weeks." Sound advice, but you should lean more towards the two weeks supply, as it well help you survive longer.

At work you should have "...one container, and ready to "grab and go" in case you are evacuated from your workplace. Make sure you have food and water in the kit. Also, be sure to have com­fortable walking shoes at your workplace in case an evacuation requires walking long distances."

In your car, "in case you are strand­ed, keep a kit of emer­gency supplies in your car. This kit should contain food, water, first aid supplies, flares, jumper cables, and seasonal supplies."

Basic Disaster Supplies Kit from FEMA

The following items are recommended for inclusion in your basic disaster supplies kit:

• Three-day supply of non-perishable food.
• Three-day supply of water, consisting of one gallon of water per person per day.
• Portable battery-powered radio or television and extra batteries.
• Flashlight and extra batteries.
• First aid kit and manual.
• Sanitation and hygiene items (moist towelettes and toilet paper).
• Matches in a waterproof container.
• Whistle.
• Extra clothing.
• Kitchen accessories and cooking utensils, including a can opener.
• Photocopies of credit and identification cards.
• Cash and coins.
• Special needs items, such as prescription medications, eye glasses, contact lens solutions, and hearing aid batteries.
• Items for infants, such as formula, diapers, bottles, and pacifiers.
• Other items to meet your unique family needs.
  
  

If you live in a cold climate, you must think about warmth as it is quite possible that you will not have heat. Think about your clothing and bedding supplies, and be sure to include one complete change of clothing and shoes per person, consisting of:

• Jacket or coat.
• Long pants.
• Long-sleeve shirt.
• Sturdy shoes.
• Hat, mittens, and scarf.
• One sleeping bag or warm blanket.

Be sure to account for growing children and other family changes. See Appendix B for a detailed checklist of disaster supplies. You may want to add some of the items listed to your basic disaster supplies kit depending on the specific needs of your family.

Maintaining Your Disaster Supplies Kit

Just as important as putting your supplies together is maintaining them so they are safe to use when needed. Here are some tips to keep your supplies ready and in good condition:

• Keep canned foods in a cool dry place.
• Store boxed food in tightly closed plastic or metal containers to protect it from pests and to extend its shelf life.
• Throw out any canned goods that becomes swollen, dented, or corroded.
• Use foods before they go bad, and replace them with fresh supplies.
• Place new items at the back of the storage area and older ones in the front.
• Change stored food and water supplies every six months. Be sure to write the date it was put into storage on all containers.
• Re-think your needs every year and update your kit as necessary.
• Keep items in airtight plastic bags and put your entire disaster supplies kit in one or two easy-to-carry containers, such as an unused trashcan, camping backpack, or duffel bag.

A few more suggestions

1. A stick oven made from an old coffee can that the top is cut out of and the bottom filled with 4 inches of sand. The top metal part is reattached to the new bottom for insulation. You can use small fuel such as twigs and broken branches to keep your car warm for hours with little effort and without needing heavy tools.

2. There is a version of the wind-up flashlight that includes a weather radio and a cell phone charger. I keep an adapter and a prepaid cell phone fitting the charger along with it, so I can keep up to date on the weather and call for help if I need it (assuming there is coverage in the area).

3.Teabags, they take up very little space and can be stored for a VERY long time with your other equipment. A little thing like tea can help take your mind off the situation and calm nerves.

(These tips courtesy of the Wilderness Survival Skills website)


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Crowbar:
This multi-pupose tool can serve several purposes, here are a few:
Weapon - can be used to bash in the skull of a zombie.
Lever - can be used to pry open doors or make heavy objects budge from place.
Make-shift step - when driven into a tree a crowbar can be used as a step to get onto a branch.
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This page is for equipment only. The other categories that where on the Weapons and Gear page with this category are listed as following:

• Protective Clothing
• Weapons and Gear
• Traps

These pages are filed under Other kinds of Weapons and Gear and under Weapons and Gear