What traps would you set?

Traps are set both to delay and injure and enemy (skin jobs and otherwise), and to alert you to their presence. Setting the right types for your particular situation can give you insurmountable advantage.
It should be noted that NO trap is fool proof (though there’s always another fool wanting to try out the theory), and a sufficiently determined enemy WILL defeat even your best-planned efforts. However, each barrier you raise to the enemies entry is another enemy that can get tangled up, tripped up, delayed, or distracted, buying you more and more minutes to rally your OWN defenses and launch the counter-attack- Before your enemy has actually begun to prosecute their OWN attack plan.
Multiple layers of traps and of multiple types will generally serve you best; Remember, some are designed to kill, others to maim, some to only alert you to their approach; ALL should be used to alert you to the approach of the enemy.
However, remember if you make any traps. For example, if you make a pit right outside of your front door, put up a sign, otherwise YOU could end up starving to death in YOUR OWN trap.







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Pungi Pit:
After you set up your fortress why not feel safer while your sleeping there tonight? Put these traps everywhere possible. Dig them at least 5-6ft down so a zombie will have a hard time getting out. Many obstacles may be placed at the bottom of the trap including, but not limited to: Stakes, Concertina wire, Large animals mainly tigers or other dangerous beast(s),(pit needs to be larger to accommodate beast(s), Improvised explosives, or acid. Its recommended that you mark them with something (Thats not to obvious, maybe like chop down a tree next to it or dig a natural looking hole next to it or something like that) Just remember that these need to be cleaned out because if not that zombie will just get right out and come to your house. Also you may catch animals in these too or even one of your guys who wasn't looking for/missed the sign.
A variation of this concept is to have "drop away" stairs at teh main entry of your fortifications; As the skin jobs break through your perimeter, have your defenders fall back inside, then pull the pins that keep the stairs in place. As the skin jobs vaunt the stairs to get inside,. they fall through, and die-die (or at least get tangled up).
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Regular Pit:
Ideal when you don't nessesarily want to kill the vicitm (live capture). Simply digg a deep hole and cover it in some fashion. Make sure it's deeper than the average pit so the skin jobs cannot simply climb out; If you so choose, you can drop heavy rock, hand grenades, sticks of dynamite, or even shove long spears down the to kill the vicitms off.







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Chain Link Stopper:
Set up wooden poles around your position, and span chain link fence about 3' off the ground. When several zombies are banging away at the chain, plug it in to 12 car batteries, and watch them writhe. For maximum effect, pour pure grain alcohol on them before plugging it in. I suggest putting these in front of above traps.



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Death By Coconut/Ball:
If you can, fill coconuts or tennis balls with thermite. When ready to deploy (best on a small hill with grooves for rolling), stick a piece of fuse into the coconut, about 6" into the mixture and 1' out, and let er' rip. (8 oz. of rust powder with 3 oz. of aluminum powder. Make rust powder by burning steel wool and waiting a few days, and for the aluminum powder, take a file to a soda can)
Note: Thermite requires a flame from burning aluminum ribbon to ignite. Standard firework fuse will not work.

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Flame Traps:
A trench with anything flammable at the bottom to fill with oncoming zombies then light on fire, kills zombies, destroys virus, and opens up more space for zombies to fall in. Keep in mind that a flaming zombie can harm you or any other non infected people around you, so build the trap accordingly.

Note: Human bones (and bones in general), are very difficult to burn. It takes a really really hot fire to make bone burn, and those conditions don't occur naturally (quite rare). So, Flame traps will have to be cleaned out periodically or replaced. Do not let the bones fill up to a dangerous level that will allow a zombie to just waltz on though, unless you want to.

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Improvised Explosive Device (I.E.D.):
As we all know IED's can be made from just about anything and can be detonated in many fashions. what you have to remember Is that if they (Iraqis) can do it so can we. all of you are saying "where do we get the explosives". The answer is this, all explosives in modern warfare contain two things, an oxidizer and a flammable substance. when ignited the oxidizer causes the fuel to burn at an accelerated rate causing the rapid release of gasses into the atmosphere. this release of gasses forces the air around the explosive to compress and then expand (shock-wave). explosives can be made from common household chemicals (as we learned from Brad Pitt in fight club) the trick is how to detonate when needed. Some insurgents have chosen to use cell phones but the fact is you can use anything that will produce an electric current. ***this is for information only and should never be attempted unless post apocalyptic zombie conditions apply.***
NOTE: 90% of the landmines you are likely to have will in fact be command-detonated IED's. In the example shown here, four artillery shells are rigged to a land mine (probably pressure-activate, anti-tank).

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Land Mine:
Land mines are crucial to a good base defense, because when a zombie triggers one of these bad boys you know there coming by the obvious explosion they make, giving you time to get ready for their arrival. Land mines are best pared with barbed wire to slow them down (be creative). Coomand activated mines are best for near-fortress and major approachroute (road) defense, whereas pressure activated mines are best to close "no go" areas. Make crystal clear warning signs saying "Danger, Minefield Ahead". This will deter most hunters, and zombies do not have the brain capacity to read the signs.
NOTE: 90% of the landmines you are likely to have will in fact be command-detonated IED's. For more information on landmines, CLICK HERE.
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Hammer:
True power. If a zombie tries to come up the stairs (I don't have any), crush it. A large hammer on a hinge that is attached to a rope. I don't mean sledgehammer, I mean a home made six-foot in diameter hammer. The rope is tightly coiled around an object that crushes. Placing it back in killing position is difficult as a ladder or Superior stilt-walking is required.
However, a hammer, which really is just an internal version of a jungle deadfall, can be CRITICALLY effective if the enemy penetrates your building; If you ever seen “Home Alone,” you seen a Hammer at work.












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Barb/Razor Wire:
Contrary to popular belief, there are two types of barbed wire, barbed wire and razor wire. Barbed wire is a piece of metal wire that is twisted at one foot intervals. Razor wire has sharpend percings on either side.
Mainly the wires entangle an enemy (to such devestaing effect in both world warsm when barbed wire was all that existed), and to a lesser extent the sharpened barbs serve to cause pain and discourages apporach from that direction.
NOTE: Wire can easily be defeated, either by a couragous soldier lying down on it or not-so-couragous soldiers laying boards over it. Bangalour Torpeados were specifically designed the punch holes in wire entangements, and MCLC's will do the same thing (even if they were meant for mine clearing).
This needs to be handled with care. The most effective method would be to coil it and hang the coiled wire in rows on a fence and if you have some left over line the ground too.

Blackberries- Nature’s OWN barbed wire:
Blackberry bushes proves literally millions of painful (but not normally debilitating) thorns, a wicked entanglement, foodstuffs, and privacy. With proper preparation, you will still be able to see out, and aloowed (or encouraged) to grow woven into chain link reinforced barbed-wire topped razor wire fencing, provides a WICKED shock to anyone trying to get in. Unless SUPREMELY dry, it generally will not burn off, and has this nasty habit of coming back- No matter how many times you try to kill it off. As hard as it is to get your bush started, it’s a million times harder to get rid of.

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Snare:
These can be setup outside your house to snag anyone who walks into them. Use a wire that will be able to stand up to the strength of a zombie, and put a stop on it to not cut off the limb.
These probably work best against human targets, as a dangling zombie is just as dangerous as a normal one.












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Bear Traps:
A bear trap is used to catch animals (including skin jobs) by closing a few powerful jaw over their foot. The trap works by the victim depressing a plate in the center of the trap (usually by stepping on it), releasing powerful springs which in turn close the jaws.
The victim is then trapped; Even if they do escape, they are crippled for life, and therefore can not run as easily (in the case of a skin job, they may not be able even to walk without incredible pain, if at all). Bear traps are known to shatter, not just break, and human’s leg bones (every year, approximately 50 fire fighters are permanently retired for this exact reason).
Effective Use: Bear traps can be used pretty much anywhere, but should be focused on probable approach routes (animal trails). Trap sites should be inspected daily to determine if they’ve been et off.
WARNING: A skin job ‘could’, in theory, either pull their foot free, chew it off (as animals are known to do), or even figure out how to open it, and thus get free.
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Old Tires:
Take a lot of old tires and lay them out were you need to stop or slow the zombies. Lets say this was your escape route, you would be able to run over the tires like a football player. The zombies would not have the coordination to navigate the tires. Preferably, cover them in water or an extremely sticky substance. Try to have a path down the middle with no tires in it.






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Cans On A String:
A pure early warning ssytem as opposed to a 'true' trap, just take a bunch of empty cans, and put them on a string or wire that's at ankle level. Depending on arrangement, they could be heard quite a distance away. Equally critically, these cans can alert 'trespassing' normies that they are entering someobody's territory, making them aware to mind their manners (and thus potentially saving their lives).







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Pig Spear Shaft:
Easy to construct and materials are easily obtained.
This particular trap can be strung up a bit higher then usual and camouflaged as needed.
Anything can be used as the main flexing arm, PVC piping, high tension springs... the list goes on.
Intended to puncture the rib cage of wild boars and hold them, they can easily puncture skulls... zombie and human alike.










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Jungle Deadfalls:
Get a heavy weight and embedde it with all kinds of sharpened nasties; Attach it to a trip wire, and if a Zed trips the boobytrap, the weight will come and rip its head right off.

Battery Bye-Bye
You position a bunch of 9v batteries (you know, the square ones we ususally put in RC controllers) behind a closed door and in front of steel wool, so that the steel wool will come into contact with the batteries and start a fire. The fire will then catch onto the room full of explosives, causing them to explode and collapse most of the flaar in under a minuite.
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abc:
auto-gun-trap(AGT)

the AGT is a trap mainly used to deffend or hold a area when you and your company are resting or sleeping, when something step on the string, the gun will shoot automaticly
P.S.:the gun shot will wake you and your team too and remember to help the auto-gun to reload(you could use chain-guns, so you will do less reload)
how to make:
-get a long platform, you can use some soft things, like a soft plastic(if you use soft platform, it will be portable, i mean easy to bring with)
-get a lot of strings(used to make hooks and the alarm system)
-get one or two(recomended two)auto-weapon
-two table(if you use two gun)
start making