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Food Stock up for $10 a week Part 2
Week 27: 3 10 lbs sugar
Week 28: 1 10 lb sugar
Week 29: 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 30: 2 10 lb sugar
Week 31: 1 can tuna, 3 cans mushroom soup
Week 32: 1 can tuna, 4 cans tomato soup
Week 33: 1 100 lb wheat
Week 34: 2 cans tuna, 1 box salt
Week 35: 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 36: 2 10 lb sugar
Week 37: 4 cans tomato soup, 2 boxes salt
Week 38: Stash $5 in the kitty
Week 39: 1 100 lb wheat
Week 40: 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 41: 3 10 lb sugar
Week 42: 2 cans tomato soup, 1 10 lb sugar
Week 43: 2 cans tomato soup, 2 cans mushroom soup
Week 44: Stash $5 in the kitty
Week 45: 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 46: 4 cans tomato soup, 4 cans mushroom soup
Week 47: 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 48: 4 cans mushroom soup, 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 49: 7 cans of tomato soup
Week 50: 7 cans of mushroom soup
Week 51: 2 10 lbs sugar, 1 box salt
By the end of the 52 weeks, you should have:
700 lbs of wheat,
240 lbs sugar,
40 lbs of powdered milk,
13 lbs of salt,
10 lbs of honey,
5 lbs of peanut butter,
45 cans of tomato soup,
32 cans mushroom soup,
15 cans tuna fish,
10 macaroni and cheese dinners,
500 aspirin, and 730 multiple vitamins
They suggest adding:
6 lbs of dried yeast and 6 lbs of shortening and this should be enough to sustain 2 people for a year. For every 2 people you have in your family add $5 more and double or triple the amount of whatever you are buying that week. You can vary this list for your own needs as in substituting cans of chicken for tuna, tomato soup for tomato sauce etc. Remember this is an example and you can vary it for your own family needs or your area stores sales.
Posted:
May 4 2013, 8:27 PM EDT by
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Food Stock Up for $10 a week Part 1
copied from Ozarks Area Survivalist list, best low budget plan I have seen, not perfect, but what is.
Set aside $10 a week to buy the specific items each week. You will have a kitty set aside that you put the $10 in and you can't touch it for any reason but to buy the food storage item for that week. Put in the remaining change back into the kitty. Some things in the beginning are going to be cheap and then later will be more expensive. In order to pay for the expensive stuff later you need to keep the leftover money in the kitty. Weeks 38 and 44 you will have "off" to replenish the kitty.
Week 1: 2 cans tuna fish, 2 boxes salt
Week 2: 5 boxes of Macaroni and Cheese 4 cans tomato soup
Week 3: 3 cans mushroom soup, 1 2.5 lb peanut butter
Week 4: one bottle 365 count multi-vitamins
Week 5: 4 cans tomato soup, 1 10 lb powdered milk
Week 6: 1 bottle aspirin (500 tablets)
Week 7: 1 100 lb container wheat
Week 8: 1 5 lb powdered milk
Week 9: 1 5 lb honey
Week 10: 4 cans tuna, 4 boxes macaroni and cheese
Week 11: 1 10 lb sugar, 1 box salt
Week 12: 4 cans mushroom soup
Week 13: 1 bottle 365 count multi-vitamins
Week 14: 1 100 lb wheat
Week 15: 1 box macaroni and cheese
Week 16: 1 5 lb honey
Week 17: 2 cans tuna, 4 can tomato soup
Week 18: 1 10 lbs sugar
Week 19: 1 100 lbs of wheat
Week 20: 2 10lbs of sugar
Week 21: 1 10lb powdered milk
Week 22: 1 can mushroom soup, 1 10 lb sugar
Week 23: 1 can tuna, 4 cans tomato soup, 1 10 lbs sugar
Week 24: 1 10 lbs sugar
Week 25: 2 cans tuna, 2 cans mushroom soup
Week 26: 1 100 lb wheat
Posted:
May 4 2013, 8:26 PM EDT by
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Deer Deterrent
When we talk about pest control we normally think insect. Larger animals can be pests also. At our ORP we have a small herd of deer that invade the garden. While the resident dogs can do a fair job with these white tails while they are out and about, the deer get to forage freely at night.
Fences are only effective to an extent. As opportunistic and selective foragers, deer will only respect "sharing" to a certain extent. Paul Wheaton shares a solution related by Sepp Holz called Bone Sauce.
I suggest you read this article and enjoy the video in it. It might be a worthwhile investment of time to save orchards and gardens from deer usurpation.
Posted:
Mar 16 2013, 11:24 AM EDT by
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Egg Estimates?
Unless that's a per-week basis and not a per-season basis for yield estimates, 6 dozen eggs seems like a low number. I've got five birds and they yield on average 2 dozen eggs in a week. Anyways, you should probably specify what period of time that yield is for.
Posted:
Feb 22 2013, 4:07 PM EST by
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How about a garden pool type arrangement?
Check out the gardenpool.org website. They have an interesting polyculture aquaponic garden that incorporates chicken, fish, algae and greens, and a drip irrigated garden all in the same greenhouse. It's reasonably sustainable, efficient, compact and diversified. I'll try to summarize: Build a pool or use an old swimming pool. Build a greenhouse over it. Build a chicken coup over the deep end. stock the deep end with tilapia and/or carp or catfish. grow water plants, algae and greens to feed the chickens and fish. The chicken droppings fall in the water also feed the fish. Solar powered pumps cycle the fish water up to the garden in the shallow end of the pool via drip irrigation. The now filtered water drips back down the the fish pool.
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Feb 10 2013, 4:15 PM EST by
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What is better?
I have heard astronaut can last and have tasted it and it is a lot better than MREs.So whiuch is better for the apocalypse?
Posted:
Jan 12 2013, 7:23 PM EST by
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Egg Incubator
I just spent a couple hours watching some YouTubes on home made incubators. Back when I raised chickens I had a commercial incubator that was far simpler than what I saw in the videos. It consisted of a box with a light bulb in it. Temperature was regulated by how much air flow was let into and out of the box; very passive.
The YT videos were very inspiring. Some questions that were raised for me:
How much turn do the eggs need? Some turning apparatuses did as little as 45 while others achieved as much as 180. I don't think my broody hens did very much more than move them about, 35 year old memory though.
How often do the eggs need to be turned? One guy has his eggs turned every hour. The commercial ones seem to turn them a few times per day. The impact of this question is in regard to how important an automatic turner actually is. If turning the eggs once per 12 hours is sufficient then auto turners seem like a waste of money and effort. The tray turner in this video could just as easily be operated with a manual push rod.
How much fresh air is needed? None of the YT designs had a means of introducing fresh air other than opening the box on an unspecified occasion. There must be a balance between fresh air circulation and heat control. Broody hens are not air tight at all, but the boxes need to be somewhat air tight for good heat control.
Posted:
Dec 26 2012, 12:18 PM EST by
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Using Acorns
Acorns have a bad rap becuase of the high amount of tannic acid in them. Tannic acid, commonly known as tannin, is a poison in high concentrations. But, this doesn't make acorns unusable.
First, know your acorn. Acorns from White Oak are lowest in tannin. Red Oak has a middling amount of tannin. Pin Oak is one of the highest in tannin.
Select your acorns carefully. Acorns with caps still on may not be of good use since the tree may have rejected them. If you see a tiny hole in the shell, that acorn is likely not useable since it has been invaded by an acorn weevil, depends on if you want the extra fat and protein from the grub. I couldn't find anything about the acorn weevil to say it was not edible. Nonetheless, its waste products are less than desirable. Sprouted acorns are good, don't throw them out.
Prepare your acorns. First shell them. This can be tedious. The last batch I processed I used a paring knife to split the nuts. After extracting the nut meats I then chopped them up fine, like cracked corn. The next step is leaching. Place the nutmeats in a bowl and cover with cold water.
Let it stand for 24 hours. The water will turn to a milky solution. Some of this is vegetable fats, but most of it is tannin. After doing this I realized I could have just smashed the nuts and picked out the large pieces of shell. During the leaching the smaller pieces of shell would float to the top where they can be skimmed out. Drain the solution off. Keep it to reduce for tanning hides or discard it. Cover the nut meats with cold water again and let stand for another 24 hours. Stirring it once or twice during the leaching may be helpful.
Leech and drain until the solution is no longer milky. Spread the nut meats out in a thin layer to dry.
Posted:
Dec 21 2012, 8:43 PM EST by
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My Zombie Survival Plan
This is my means of Survival in a Zombie Apocalypse. Please comment and help me improve it for the Future.
Friends: I would go along with one friend "Jakob Brodie" because the more people the more supplies. If you have 2 people then atleast you have a backup and not too much food would be required. Maybe i could go in 3's and bring "Nic Gaulsaa" as then we would have more backup, Although taking more supplies to keep.
Food: Before i leave home i would take my fishing backpack and pack it with any canned foods i can handle and take my Fly Rod with some Flies. I live in a Coastal Region so i could catch some fish in fresh unpolluted waters. This will not be enough food to survive so i would also need to get more means of food because there are 2-3 people so i would try (If Safe) get to a Super Market or Service Station. We would bring hessian bags and pack as much food as possible into it. This would hopefully be enough food to last 2 weeks and by then we would have travelled to a new location to refresh supplies. At home i would also pack some form of a pan to cook on.
Fire: I would pack some of my flint and steels to light some fire and hopefully last long enough for me to get to the Fire Station (I am in the Rural Fire Service) to get a driptorch and be able to light quite big fires. There is plenty of wood near me because there is forests all around me.
Transport: I would leave my house in a car, There will hopefully be enough fuel to get my friends and make it to the Fire Station and get into the Category 9 Fire Vehicle (Ute). We would get some tools from the Fire Station along with a Drip Torch (said above) and Food (said above).
Weapons: Before leaving my house i would take a Knife and an Axe. The sharper the tool the less blood will get on me. This should suffice until i get to the Fire Station and get a RakeHoe and a Driptorch along with other small tools.
Posted:
Dec 3 2012, 8:29 PM EST by
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Hunting with a Hawk
Aww you thought this was another tomahawk thread...
One of my clients this week keeps hawks for hunting small game. I found this terribly interesting.
Unlike other "livestock" one is not concerned with veterinary issues because if the bird catches something, then it is already too late. What really caught my attention was how easy it is to replace a lost bird. The trap for catching a wild hawk is ridiculously easy to make. The bait, a live mouse, could be harder to get than making and using the trap. My client showed me his trap and we discussed how to replicate it from natural materials.
The learning curve seems to be low with predatory birds. It seems they are rather disposed to becoming dependent on humans. Most of the learning seems involved with handling and feeding.
My client described how he hunts small game such as guinea hen, squirrel, and pheasant using his hawk and his dachshunds. The hawks will follow his dogs from tree to tree until the dogs flush some prey. Then the hawk moves in for the kill.
He is going to take me hawking in the spring. I'll check in afterward and tell of my experience.
Posted:
Nov 9 2012, 7:54 PM EST by
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Guide to perfect survival. [ STARTING GEAR ]
Hello, everybody. In this thread im going to tell you the (almost ^^) perfect plan of surviving. Ofcourse everyone has diffrent toughts how to survive, but this is the way you SHOULD survive.
Lets start with the STARTING GEAR.
Many of you may have already prepared for the Z-day! But most of all haven't.I guess everyone starts at his/her home, ofcourse if you aren't anywere else.
So lets start!
Find any bag, best would be if you would find a large backpack. Take some water and put it in your backpack. Two, 1 litre bottles will do the trick. Put in some long lasting food ( canned food isn't the best option, but will do if there is no other option) *REMINDER* Dont overcumber your backpack with food! Being fast is better than being fat...
Take some matches or a lighter. Grab a flashlight. Take some bandages ( some piece of sheet will do too), and some painkillers. *REMINDER* Before using pills read the instruction, because having an alergic reaction isn't too good. Put it all in your bag ( if there is no more space, use your pockets. If you have no pockets, you can put it in your underwear. REMEMBER survival is the key, not the fashion.) Finnaly find a weapon. Any sharp, long ranged weapon will do. If possible find a sword or something. If you ( or your parents) have a gun, take it. Its much better to kill zombies before they get too near to you. Dont place it in your backpack, it only takes away valuable space. Hold it in your hands, or put it behind you belt, pants or even put it in your pocket. ( pockets are bad choice. Why? When zombie starts running at you every second counts. I'll take time to pull out your gun from your pocket.) When you have done all of this, head out to the nearest town, village, house etc. *REMINDER* Avoid any infected if possible.
I have just hitted the character limit D: if you liked this, then let me know (in comments) that you want a sequel of the Guide of the perfect survival.
Posted:
Sep 11 2012, 1:23 PM EDT by
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Starvation- How long will it take?
My plan for SHTF involves waiting out most of the rioting and looting which insues from famine. Mainly because I don't have a handy BOL in the mountains. Mainly I want to know how much food I should stockpile. I have seeds, but obviously planting crops straight away where I am won't work because of the countless starving people aound.
Assuming that the S hits the fan hard enough and the food supply is effectively cut off, does anybody have any ideas as to how long it might take for the worst of it to be over? That is to say, how long would it take for the death rate to equalise the population with the food supply? And would pestilence neccesarily follow?
I've thought about it, but I think there are too many unpredictable variables involved. But does anybody have any info on past famines/depressions etc. with regards to this?
Posted:
Aug 25 2012, 5:21 AM EDT by
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I, Caveman....an insight to the unprepaired
I watched a show last night called I, Caveman. Morgan spurlock, the guy that ate mcdonalds for 30 days did this documentary. He took 9 people with pretty much no expertise into the woods and gave them only primitive tools. They had to wear animal skin and hunt and gather food.
By the third day, most of the group was so hungry, they started shutting down mentally. It took them 6 days to finally kill something substantial to feed the group and that is because the producers called in a guy to give them atlatl spear throwers. If they had not have gotten those, they would have starved to death. Most were severely dehydrated for the majority of the show as well.
They were only there for 10 days and 2 people quit the show. I was watching this and really re-evaluating my beliefs on just how many survivors there would be in any kind of apoc where it forced people to hunt and gather food and get clean drinking water. After watching that show, i doubt if more than 1% would survive the first few months.
Has anyone else seen this show?
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Survival food Preperation
You may have enough food to feed an army for 20 years but if you can't turn it into something edible, it really doesn't amount to squat.
I have a subscription to an outdoor magazine and was reading about a cool way to cook fish by a campfire with nothing but a split piece of wood.
You take the whole fish after it has been gutted and nail it, tie it, or somehow attach it to the flat side of the split piece of wood that you would want to cook on(ie. hickory, cherry, oak). turn the piece of wood so that the fish is facing the fire with the wood slightly angled back. You will have to experiment with the distance from the fire depending on the heat it is puting out. when one side is cooked, repeat on other side. when that side is done, get fat and happy. stay away from using any kind of evergreen wood as it will taste like kerosene.
what are some other ways to cook in a survival situation?
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15 foods you can regrow from scraps
http://indianinthemachine.wordpress.com/2012/07/21/15-foods-you-can-regrow-from-scraps/
For those of you who aren't ever going to buy a heirloom seed bank (You know who you are. :)) here's an interesting link on foods you can grow from scraps.
Now go get your rain poncho on and go dumpster diving!
Posted:
Jul 28 2012, 8:54 AM EDT by
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They're ready earlier.
My family grows onions up here in Canada. We always pick the onions when the stick is green and about 8 centimeters tall. The white bit isn't as big but is ready to eat and still tastes good and is ready about 2 months after planting.
Posted:
Jul 19 2012, 4:52 PM EDT by
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Raising Chickens for Food
Terminology A male chicken is called a ****, Cockeral (neutered male), or Rooster. The female chicken is a hen. Baby chickens are called chicks. Immature females (not yet laying) are refered to as poults or pullets. A bantam is a species of chick
Last updated:
May 17 2012, 10:11 PM EDT by
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Pemmican
Im so glad that Shadowmancer has made this page. I've been enthralled with pemmican for a number of years. This tasty food is packed with calories. When fortified with some not so traditional ingredients it supplies calories and vitamins from varied sources.
My recipe is for those who need to use the "other large edible animal" Quantities are by "feel". I do not have any actual measurements.
2 parts -Lean Beef, dried
1/3 part - Honey, dehydrated
1/3 part -Cashews, ground
1/3 part - Peanuts, ground
Rendered fat - beef tallow from marrow bones, fat trimmings, I even use bacon fat sometimes. Use enough to thoroughly "wet" all the dry ingredients, and then some more. It should roughly be 1 part.
Nutrition information
I use beef roast for my beef source. I get one that is a bit larger than I need for a meal, then cut off a piece and slice it into 1/8 to 3/16 thick slices. These I will hang in the oven at its lowest setting until dry. While the beef is drying I put honey in an pyrex bowl and put it in the oven to dehydrate at the same time. I render the marrow and fat at the same time as cooking the roast. It all goes into a colander nested in a bowl. Getting the marrow bones and fat trimmings is often a matter of luck. That luck is best if I go shopping when there is actually a butcher in the market.
Posted:
Mar 31 2012, 4:24 PM EDT by
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Wild Food and Food from History
Eventually modern produced supplies will run out and you will require food. Agriculture takes time and you may run out before the crops are ready. Your crops may fail. You may have to travel and MRE’s will run out. This page will contain numerous w
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Yeild Questions
I'm curious if these yields are for ideal farming conditions with non organic farming methods.
Posted:
Feb 29 2012, 8:48 AM EST by
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