Zeroing in a scope
Ideally, you want to mount the scope, as close to the top of the barrel as possible. The distance between the line of the bore, and the line of sight, is called paralax. The greater this distance, the more error tolerance occurs. With most sporting rifles, the scope mounts ontop of the reciever, however with the AR series, often the scope mounts ontop of the carry handle. This gives you about a 3 1/2 in paralax to deal with. You can use this to your advantage to set up a battlefield 0. If you set your 0 to 100 meters, the bullet roughly takes the following flight course. The bullet hits 3 1/2 low at 25 meters, begining to climb to the first 0 at 100 meters, the line of flight crosses the line of sight. The bullet now climbs to 3 1/2 inches above line of sight, settleing down to 0 again around 300 meters, and falling to 3 1/2 in below line of sight by about 400 meters.
In a nutshell, with this 0, you can hold on to center of mass, and it's a hit (within 3 1/2" or less) clear out to 400 meters. With a graduated scope, you can move your reticle mark for an even tighter hit.
Hope this helps, good luck on Z day
Apr 6 2011, 8:57 AM EDT by
30-06 in sheath
Sep 6 2010, 11:57 AM EDT by
Sep 6 2010, 11:59 AM EDT by
Weaponry: Where can I get it?
Where can I get weapons, ammunition, etc.? Don't tell me to go to a military base or anything, maybe a shooting range would be reasonable. But how much should i carry, and how much is enough? The best i can probably get my hands on is a shotgun, maybe a few good handguns. Otherwise, i'm gonna have to stick with my knives. I live in California btw. If you have a solution, tell me how to resupply/
May 16 2010, 1:20 AM EDT by
Please tell me if this makes any sense
Attempt #2 at making a page. Let me know if this makes any sense, or if anything should be reworded, thanks.
Oct 19 2009, 7:10 PM EDT by
The Concept of Zeroing a Rifle
. Zeroing a rifle is actually fairly complicated. I am making this page mainly so more people will have a better understanding of what is really going on when you zero a rifle. . The most important part is realizing that ALL weapons are zeroed at T
Oct 19 2009, 10:58 PM EDT by
Your Weapons of Choice
What kind of weapons would you bring? This means you have your own choice to bring as many weapons and whatever kind. Bring a frying pan if you want. But please include the following for each weapon:
1) Long range or close combat
2) Longevity rating of 1-5 (Relative to how many zombies you could take out before it breaks / run out of ammo / can't be used)
3) Where you would acquire this weapon
4) Why you would take it
5) Why this could be bad
6) Overall score as a weapon 1-10 taking into account availability, maintenance, discretion when in use (meaning is it going to alert more zombies or not) and storage.
Remember to keep in mind the weight and storage of your weapons. We all can't be Rambos and run out with all fire power and no life-essential supplies.
Here is my list:
1) Long ranged (I would be in a group, so I would act as a sniper)
2) 4 / 5 : Carrying arrows is lightweight and easy to store. There isn't any extensive cleaning or lubing involved like a gun
3) Found at any store that has hunting equipment (Meijer if there is one close to you)
4) Generally easy to use. Long years of experience isn't required. Accurate. And most importantly: Silent.
5) Where the heck am I going to store this? I would probably get a back holster for it. But that makes a nice handle bar for a sneaky zombie to grab me.
1) Close combat
2) 5 : Steel
3) Hardware store
4) I know for a fact I don't have enough power to sever a zombie head, but I'm pretty sure I could bash in skulls with a crow bar. And not only are these good for weapons, but they're great for what they're actually made for: breaking, opening, etc. Easy to store in a belt holster too!
5) I can't see anything wrong with a good ole' crowbar
Feb 15 2009, 10:17 PM EST by
Tons of US.mil, Army, USMC, and Canadian riflery training in pdf's
Size: 82473 KB
My opinon is that if a ghoul is far enough away to use a 50 cal, I can easily avoid it. If a hostile human is that far away, i will shoot as they also have a chance to shoot at me.
Aug 15 2008, 3:05 PM EDT by
Remington 700 and Some comments on long-range Shooting.
(nice write-up, by the way)
Remington 700, as stated, 1MOA out of the box, sometimes less. 700-1200 dollars.
6K for a new .50. 2-dollars a round for ammo. Combat loads over 30lbs… Seriously folks. It still takes a considerable amount of skill to engage targets past 800m with any weapon.
First of all, 400m is farther than you think it is. A head shot at a quarter mile takes skill and ideal shooting conditions, though is still in the realm of what the average shooter can accomplish. Also, most ranges only go to 300m, and finding a 400m range for most would be difficult. Anything longer and you need open space and land access to practice.
1,000m. Seriously. Can you SEE a human-sized target at 1,000m? Experts and long-range enthusiasts with NRA long-range matches (and other organizations) are trying to hit a target 6-foot by 6-foot, and placing their rounds in (or near) the x-ring which measures 5” across. These rifles are finely tuned by a gun-smith, and are fired off of a bench rest, and striking the x-ring at that distance is not guaranteed, even with ideal shooting conditions.
If you have 1000m line of sight, a competition grade rifle in .300 Mag or .338 Lapua, a bench rest, can see your target, your target is not moving, and the wind is completely constant from the point of fire to the point of impact, you “could” make a head shot. If your target is moving, your firing from a impromptu firing position, and the wind is swirling… 1,000m head shots would be absolutely awe-inspiring. I’m certain there are people who could make a shot like that, but this type of shooting is out of the scope of what the average gun-owner could accomplish. To accomplish this with a 700… that would be even more legendary.
For 200m to 400m, get a good 700 and master it. You won’t break the bank, and you’ll have a lot of fun doing it. If Z-day never comes, Deer Season comes every year.
Big Guns Don't Work
In this article, only large caliber guns are discussed. In reality, these guns are over doing it. Why shoot a gun that makes a noise loud enough to attract every zombie in the area when you could accomplish the same effect (though from a bit closer range) with a .22 caliber rifle.
The .22 is an excellent choice for the zombie bashing sniper rifle for a couple of very good reasons.
1. NO RECOIL - anybody can shoot this little gun.
2. Ammo isn't exactly limited - 1000 rounds for these guns only cost about 20 bucks last time I checked.
3. Silent - Assuming that you don't have a silencer (and unless you're military, you don't), a big gun makes a big noise. This little .22 makes next to no sound.
Just puttin that out there...
May 6 2008, 9:57 PM EDT by
Totally enjoyed the article...nice work, and good add on the windage thing. However in regards to your "M14 variations are being fazed out" comment...not entirley true. Hundreds of soldiers have been Re-issued M14 Sniper Rifles along with their M16/M1A4...yes thats right, they have to carry both...at least some of the snipers do.
Jan 6 2008, 6:06 AM EST by
long range like 200 yards is nice, but its just fancy. Your going to make a big loud boom that will draw the Zeds in for miles. I say when they are in a few hundred feet sure pick em off. but if They are the God forsaken fast Zombies a head shot is not going to happen. 1. that head is moving and bobbing. 2 heads are small. 3 the thing may be running at you! making that shot very important and stessful therefore very hard to do. Slow zombie 200 yards away? leave it alone. it maybe doesnt see you. outrun it lose it or shoot it when its closer. i say stick with .22s since you can carry a TON of ammo and they tend to be lighter guns.
Dec 4 2007, 11:01 PM EST by
.308/7.62 range 1000-1200 meters for a reliable head shot 500-600 meters.
For more information
Remember practice, Practice, PRACTICE
Nov 18 2007, 5:06 PM EST by